Sanyo PLV-Z2000 Tweak Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 1531 Old 11-30-2007, 04:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Since no one else has started one I guess I'll have to. Even though it seems like the out-of-the-box experience with the unit is already quite close to optimal, I'm sure there still is some room for improvement.

I've had my Z2000 for a couple weeks now and have to say I'm very happy. The only disappointment was the brightness, which hasn't improved all that much from the Z3 which the Z2000 now replaced, but I have decent light control in the viewing area so it's really not that big of a deal. In every other aspect the difference is quite clear, black levels, colors, sharpness and overall contrast are greatly improved. I'm using a DIY 80" wallmount screen coated with Goo DGL, sources are PS3 and HTPC connected directly via HDMI.

These are the settings I've been using so far (everything at default/0 unless otherwise stated):

Movies

Pure Cinema
Lamp: Low
Color temp: Low1
Green: -1

Games

Brilliant Cinema
Lamp: A2
Color Temp: Low1
Green: -1

Mainly I'm interested in all the extra gimmicky settings, such as iris, noise reduction, auto black stretch, contrast enhancement, transient improvement, dynamic gamma etc. Anyone played around with these and any recommendations? I also haven't run through DVE/Avia yet, any corrections suggested by it?
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post #2 of 1531 Old 11-30-2007, 05:57 AM
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I like putting Dynamic Gamma to 'High' in games...also I find the transient improvement can really help with games too, especially upscaling the 360 games to 1080p. Both of these are turned off for high def movie watching though.
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post #3 of 1531 Old 11-30-2007, 06:00 AM
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I find brilliant cinema to look awful. Absolutely awful. But everyone else seems to think its ok enough for some uses. Could something be wrong with my projector? Should I post pics?
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post #4 of 1531 Old 12-02-2007, 01:36 PM
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Pure Cinema: (AVIA calibrated)

Contrast +4
Brightness -2
Green -1
Color +3

HDMI: Normal
Transient improvement: Mid
Iris: Fast
Lamp: A2 (92" Carada Brilliant White screen mounted 10' away)

Everything else is at default for pure cinema.

Edit: Update (12-13-07) After a couple weeks of ownership I've went back to these previous settings and they will stay there now as I'm extremely happy with it now.
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post #5 of 1531 Old 12-13-2007, 02:47 PM
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[DELETED]

My favorite configuration is now posted HERE

The Moderno Theatre! Slideshow (here, and here!)
Pixar screenplay slideshows here!
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post #6 of 1531 Old 12-16-2007, 01:26 PM
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Does anyone happen to know the size of the lens on the Sanyo and whether it is threaded for additional lenses/filters? According to Cine4home and others here, you can run the Sanyo in say Dynamic mode using an 81 through 81EF Warming Color Conversion Multi-Coated (MC) Glass Filter and calibrate to 6500k. This will boost the native contrast to around 3500:1!
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post #7 of 1531 Old 12-16-2007, 06:30 PM
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Sisyphus,

You're post lead me to some brilliant work by cine4home and it looks like this might help the Z2000 folks as well.

There are a few problems. First, the Z2000 does not have traditional filter threads so you either need to get something special or just get something a bit smaller than the outside ring and stick it on there with something. There is room to do this. I too am intrigued by a 2x or 3x improvement in contrast. I have 96" carada bw screen from 12' and my only complaint is the marginal black level. My setup is in my basement. I'm thinking a red'ish 82mm lens with a mild temporary adhesive would be a perfect test. Now some questions... Do the Z5 and Z2000 have similar output in terms of color? If the Z2000 is similar and I assume it is from all I have read this would be a $56 investment with some tacky putty...

bhphoto /c/product/23496-REG/Hoya_003386_82mm_Red_25A_Glass.html

Any thoughts out there?
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post #8 of 1531 Old 12-16-2007, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opherhenry View Post

Sisyphus,

You're post lead me to some brilliant work by cine4home and it looks like this might help the Z2000 folks as well.

There are a few problems. First, the Z2000 does not have traditional filter threads so you either need to get something special or just get something a bit smaller than the outside ring and stick it on there with something. There is room to do this. I too am intrigued by a 2x or 3x improvement in contrast. I have 96" carada bw screen from 12' and my only complaint is the marginal black level. My setup is in my basement. I'm thinking a red'ish 82mm lens with a mild temporary adhesive would be a perfect test. Now some questions... Do the Z5 and Z2000 have similar output in terms of color? If the Z2000 is similar and I assume it is from all I have read this would be a $56 investment with some tacky putty...

bhphoto /c/product/23496-REG/Hoya_003386_82mm_Red_25A_Glass.html

Any thoughts out there?

I don't think that lens will work. You want an 81 through 81EF Warming Color Conversion Multi-Coated (MC) Glass Filter. Make sure you get one that is multi-coated as this will help preserve ansi contrast. Glass is also better. From what I've read the 81 will be brighter and the 81EF will be dimmer. Here is a link to lenses followed by similar threads on avs:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...arch&Q=*&bhs=t

Note! Whereas the 81 Series of filters creates a feeling of warmth, the 82 Series creates a feeling of coolness

81 Series Conversion Factors

81 decreases color temperature from 3300 - 3200° Kelvin
81A decreases color temperature from 3400 - 3200° Kelvin
81B decreases color temperature from 3500 - 3200° Kelvin
81C decreases color temperature from 3600 - 3200° Kelvin
81D decreases color temperature from 3700 - 3200° Kelvin
81EF decreases color temperature from 3900 - 3200° Kelvin

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post6554127

There are posts covering colored filters and contrast improvements scattered through this thread. The 1st post on the first page also summarizes results done by others.

Good luck!
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post #9 of 1531 Old 12-16-2007, 11:10 PM
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UPDATE: Disregard my comment below.
My favorite configuration is posted HERE

Hi guys.. I have some potentially great news...!

I was tweaking today, and decided to try and make a 'movie' mode from the DYNAMIC setting. So I started with Dynamic setting, and turned a lot of stuff off, proceeded to calibrate with Avia, and then spent about 1 hr tweaking the colors because they were WAY off.

The result? The most '3D pop' I have seen to date with this PJ, and a resulting very bright image in Econo mode. This is great news because so far I had only been able to get decent pop and brightness when using some of the bright bulb modes (A1, A2 etc). And this mode in fact gives much much better results on dark scenes than my previous tweaks. This was the primary reason for my tweaking today...

I will post the exact settings here tomorrow.

The Moderno Theatre! Slideshow (here, and here!)
Pixar screenplay slideshows here!
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post #10 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 03:56 AM
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I am using an 84' screen, so the black level has not be quite satisfactory. I wonder if there is a filter I can add to simple lower the light level, without messing up with colors. Do you have any suggestions ?

Thank you.
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post #11 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 04:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

Hi guys.. I have some potentially great news...!

I was tweaking today, and decided to try and make a 'movie' mode from the DYNAMIC setting. So I started with Dynamic setting, and turned a lot of stuff off, proceeded to calibrate with Avia, and then spent about 1 hr tweaking the colors because they were WAY off.

The result? The most '3D pop' I have seen to date with this PJ, and a resulting very bright image in Econo mode. This is great news because so far I had only been able to get decent pop and brightness when using some of the bright bulb modes (A1, A2 etc). And this mode in fact gives much much better results on dark scenes than my previous tweaks. This was the primary reason for my tweaking today...

I will post the exact settings here tomorrow.

I still think brilliant cinema has the most promise. Did you ever get a look at those? Looking forward to your seeing your settings on dynamic mode. Maybe I will use it for video games but i really can't see myself using it for movies. Hope I am wrong tho!
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post #12 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 08:04 AM
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My previous question will probably get lost due to the reply to a previous topic.

I am using the Z2000, projecting in a 84' screen, using the lower lamp mode but the black is not satisfactory even with the Iris on Fast and after the Avia calibration done. I was thinking to add a filter to simply lower the lumen output. What type of filter would do that ? Anybody has experience on this ?

Thank you.
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post #13 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 08:15 AM
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afs: How close are you to the screen? Also, what ambient light do you have to deal with, and what colors are your walls? What screen do you have?

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post #14 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 08:45 AM
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I am actually 4 meters from screen, and my room is painted gray, but my concern is on lowering the absolute black level, which is currently sort of a dark but milky gray on my screen. The room would have an effect as soon as I have something going on in the screen, but I am already unsatisified with no image at all, but just a black background.

I am positive the projector is outputing it's minimun light, since I have the Iris as Fast, the lamp in eco mode and I have lowered the brightness to minimum within the Avia calibration guidelines.

I think my only solution is blocking the light with some sort of filter (glass filter ?).

Thanks for replying.
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post #15 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 08:58 AM
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I forgot to say the room is a true batcave, with totally controled (none) ambient light.

Thanks again !
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post #16 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 10:52 AM
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afss,

A neutral density filter will reduce light output but I think an 81ef is the route to go. Now we still need to sigure out ther filter size. 77mm is probably a hair too small. Anyone out there with a 77mm or 82mm filter of any sort to throw on there and test out the filter size? I will take the plunge and order an 81EF and attempt to calibrate but I want to make sure of the filter size first. With better blacks I won't have a thing to complain about.
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post #17 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 10:58 AM
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Thank you for the reply opherhenry.

I am going to wait for your feedback on how the 81EF filter behaves, in order to get one for myself as well.
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post #18 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnolivos View Post

Hi guys.. I have some potentially great news...!

I was tweaking today, and decided to try and make a 'movie' mode from the DYNAMIC setting. So I started with Dynamic setting, and turned a lot of stuff off, proceeded to calibrate with Avia, and then spent about 1 hr tweaking the colors because they were WAY off.

The result? The most '3D pop' I have seen to date with this PJ, and a resulting very bright image in Econo mode. This is great news because so far I had only been able to get decent pop and brightness when using some of the bright bulb modes (A1, A2 etc). And this mode in fact gives much much better results on dark scenes than my previous tweaks. This was the primary reason for my tweaking today...

I will post the exact settings here tomorrow.

Awesome. Looking forward to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm View Post

I still think brilliant cinema has the most promise. Did you ever get a look at those? Looking forward to your seeing your settings on dynamic mode. Maybe I will use it for video games but i really can't see myself using it for movies. Hope I am wrong tho!

Brilliant Cinema doesn't lower black levels. Here is a link for contrast figures in different modes:

{link removed based on size}

Quote:
Originally Posted by afss View Post

Thank you for the reply opherhenry.

I am going to wait for your feedback on how the 81EF filter behaves, in order to get one for myself as well.

afss I would punch in gnolivos settings tomorrow and see what you think. A color filter may be necessary but I'd wait and see if you can get close to 6500 without a filter.

Exciting stuff!
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post #19 of 1531 Old 12-17-2007, 09:49 PM
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OK guys, first of all, my apologies. In a previous post I messed up by stating that the IRIS RANGE value was irelevant when using the Fast/Slow iris modes. This was VERY WRONG!!! The Iris Range [-63 to 0] is very relevant here! It makes all the difference in the world. Furthermore, thanks to this realization on my part, I have come up with a great setting for this projector. FYI, the range set at zero [0] will give you max brightness (even with IRIS mode= Fast).

So, in the end, I went ahead and took Paradigm's advice and started with the BRILLIANT CINEMA mode as the basis for my tweaks. This mode has very accurate colors, and is definitely the best start for any tweaks based on what I have noted during hours of tweaking. I also noted that a much more experienced reviewer here used Brilliant Cinema as the basis for his tweaks.

(See some screenshots HERE)

HERE IT IS. This will give you a BRIGHT image, that is cinema-like, and will 'pop'!
(Last modified 12/22/07)

Based on the BRILLIANT CINEMA mode, and tweaked as follows:

Brightness: -1 [I recommend you configure yourself with Avia discs]
Contrast: +7 [I recommend you configure yourself with Avia discs]
Color: +2
Tint: 0
Temperature: [user, defined below by R,G,B]
Red: +2
Green: -4
Blue: -5

Sharpness: -2
Lamp Mode: A1
Gamma: 0
Progressive: Film
Noise Reduction: Off

Iris: Fast
Range: 0 (Very important!!! this will give you max brightness!)
Black Stretch: Off
Contrast Enhancement: Off
Transient: Low (I dont generally like sharpness improving techniques, but this one was great set at Low, combined with the sharpness at -2 above)
Color Management [untouched]
Color List: List 1
Dynamic Gamma: Off
Custom Gamma: [untouched]

HDMI Setup: Normal (use enhanced if it makes your blacks 'blacker'. Should be obvious)

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post #20 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 12:47 AM
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gnolivos, thanks for all your help to a novice like my self! I am following your lead and I am getting great results. One question: since you talk about Progressive/Noise Reduction settings I asume that your input is not 1080p like mine (from a PS3 over a Onkyo 805 receiver). Should that make a great difference to the settings? And a second qustion: why don't you feed it with a 1080p signal (from what I can understand the Z2000 doesn't do a great scalling job compared to e.g. the PS3 or scalers in better receivers)?

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post #21 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 01:52 AM
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gnolivos -

DAMNIT. I was done before this! I came in this thread tonight to post my final 'Pure Cinema' calibrated settings because I was pretty satisfied. I came to the realization that I don't need a super bright image because at my close throw distance I didn't need it however I like the added punch when playing video games and don't need it to be as accurate on color.

Now this about the iris.. What's funny is, I ALWAYS put the IRIS at -63 to get the best blacks. It just made me feel better to put it there even tho its on FAST. This is probably why I have been EXTREMELY happy with the black level/shadow detail with this projector. Setting it to '0' to get a brighter image would really not be necessary for me (in my setup anyways but I can see it in a larger screen or longer throw) as I think brilliant cinema is VERY bright in my setup. My retina's would burn! But I am going to try it tho and try out your settings.

I could almost get 'brilliant cinema' to be accurate in color except in bright scenes on skin tones were orange-ish in color (I should try color management like I did with Z4). So I gave up on using it for cinema watching. I was able to get the blue-ish tint out of the picture by adjusting color list to native and I believe low 1 for color temp. Have you or anyone here played with the color list to NATIVE? I like it a lot! It will vary with the different modes but it has Very natural color and I use it with my 'pure cinema' settings.

I am sure you will be viewing more movies soon.. At times brilliant cinema looks accurate in color but then sometimes it doesn't in bright scenes as I stated earlier. Please keep us posted if you are still sure the colors are good. (keep in mind i haven't tried your color settings.. I'm going up now to tweak. AGAIN!

Also, I checked the pictures in that reviewers setup (the link you provided) and can easily see the blue-ish tint in his setup. I can get that out.
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post #22 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 07:27 AM
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Interesting to read the comments here. I started with Pure Cinema and tweaked based on Avia. My results are very close to those already posted. I've got a dumb question, however. Does it really matter which mode we start with? Aren't we all trying to reach the same goal, tweaking our settings to get to the Avia (or other) standard? Aren't these viewing modes just pre-tweaked settings which we are then altering?

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post #23 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 08:06 AM
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This is a good question, and one I have asked myself. I don't know the answer. At first I was convinced they were different, but that's because I was not paying attention to the IRIS range setting. So at first, when tweaking 2 different modes to the ame settings (except for IRIS range which I never touched in the past) they were different. It was more than likely a difference attributed to the Iris range setting (stupid me).

Anyhow, I may try this again and use the 2 extremes (Pure Cinema, and Vivid) and tweak to my preferred numbers to see if I get the exact same image. Just out of curiosity. It is possible that there are inherent gamma or even color differences between all the modes (my guess), but who knows.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCS View Post

Interesting to read the comments here. I started with Pure Cinema and tweaked based on Avia. My results are very close to those already posted. I've got a dumb question, however. Does it really matter which mode we start with? Aren't we all trying to reach the same goal, tweaking our settings to get to the Avia (or other) standard? Aren't these viewing modes just pre-tweaked settings which we are then altering?


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Pixar screenplay slideshows here!
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post #24 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 08:07 AM
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I don't feed 1080p only because my DVD player maxes out at 1080i. It is a TOshiba HD-A3 hddvd player. If it had 1080p, I would most definitely feed that instead, because the Toshiba has a better scaler and deinterlacer overall...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rosie2515 View Post

gnolivos, thanks for all your help to a novice like my self! I am following your lead and I am getting great results. One question: since you talk about Progressive/Noise Reduction settings I asume that your input is not 1080p like mine (from a PS3 over a Onkyo 805 receiver). Should that make a great difference to the settings? And a second qustion: why don't you feed it with a 1080p signal (from what I can understand the Z2000 doesn't do a great scalling job compared to e.g. the PS3 or scalers in better receivers)?


The Moderno Theatre! Slideshow (here, and here!)
Pixar screenplay slideshows here!
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post #25 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm View Post

Now this about the iris.. What's funny is, I ALWAYS put the IRIS at -63 to get the best blacks. It just made me feel better to put it there even tho its on FAST. This is probably why I have been EXTREMELY happy with the black level/shadow detail with this projector. Setting it to '0' to get a brighter image would really not be necessary for me (in my setup anyways but I can see it in a larger screen or longer throw) as I think brilliant cinema is VERY bright in my setup. My retina's would burn! But I am going to try it tho and try out your settings.

I should have clarified this in above post, but perhaps you should try using my exact settings, and then take the iris range down from zero to a level that best meets your needs. Since I am at a 13.5 ft throw and 105" diagonal screen, I can really use all the brightness. But if you are closer perhaps full iris is too much. I think this is the beauty about this PJ! The Panny AX200 I had did not allow to set the IRIS to a specific opening. I love the way the Z2000 works because it helps adapt to a specific room condition.

Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigm View Post

I could almost get 'brilliant cinema' to be accurate in color except in bright scenes on skin tones were orange-ish in color (I should try color management like I did with Z4). So I gave up on using it for cinema watching. I was able to get the blue-ish tint out of the picture by adjusting color list to native and I believe low 1 for color temp. Have you or anyone here played with the color list to NATIVE? I like it a lot! It will vary with the different modes but it has Very natural color and I use it with my 'pure cinema' settings.

I am sure you will be viewing more movies soon.. At times brilliant cinema looks accurate in color but then sometimes it doesn't in bright scenes as I stated earlier. Please keep us posted if you are still sure the colors are good. (keep in mind i haven't tried your color settings.. I'm going up now to tweak. AGAIN!

Also, I checked the pictures in that reviewers setup (the link you provided) and can easily see the blue-ish tint in his setup. I can get that out.

I would suggest at least try setting the colors the way I have them. It pushes more towards a warm image, and definitely not a cold blue image. Notice the temperature setting I use has Blue=-10. That will kill the blue tint. Also note red is up by +4. (and green just -1). It is also importanrt that the color list (List 1) be set. I found the other color lists to be off, at least for this particular configuration.

Please test it out and see what you think. My test DVD is Fifth Element for skin tones. Certain scenes are perfect for this.

The Moderno Theatre! Slideshow (here, and here!)
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post #26 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 08:16 AM
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One more thing. If you want to see the effect of the IRIS range setting, do this:

1) Pick your current favorite mode. Also choose a very bright image and pause.
2) Go to options, and move the IRIS RANGE to opposite end (for example, from -63 to 0, or from 0 to -63).
3) Without leaving the options menu , look at your image, and then press the RESET button on your control. This will take it back to the original setting in one quick swoop. The difference in brightness will be obvious to the eye.

It was not very obvious to me when I simply moved it from -63 to 0 just by repeatedly pressing the buttons all the way... the gradual increase is not something our eye is very good at catching. The jump from -63 to 0 in one quick swoop is something you can notice.

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post #27 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 09:28 AM
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I tested your settings. As you know I was always a believer in the brilliant image mode. Your user settings for color are perfect for me. THIS is what I couldn't seem to accomplish and had been bothering me about the brilliant mode. (I still like Native for color list tho)

EDIT: I have went back to List 1. Greens and blacks suffer in native mode.

Also, you are VERY correct about the Iris at 0 giving a much brighter image but I was worried about black level. I'm happy to report that it didn't hurt the black level at all (to these eyes). I forgot to check shadow detail but I will do so although I don't remember that suffering either.

It's funny you talk about Fifth Element as your test for skin tones. I use this movie as well!

Thanks so much for your input and findings. They are the answer to brilliant cinema. I knew someone here could finally get the colors correct in that mode. And the info on the Iris does wonder for the brightness of the image.

For those who haven't tried gnolivos brilliant cinema settings please try them out and report how you like the image. I can't imagine anyone having any gripes about what they see! Give us your feedback!
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post #28 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 09:56 AM
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OK, I tried this. I calibrated to my exact numbers using two different modes as my starting point (used Brilliant Cinema, and Vivid). The answer is that you will get radically different results. Every number on every menu is identical in the way I have set them up, but the resulting image is totally different especially in terms of color.

Having said this, if you want to tweak for a true cinematic image (with proper colors), you want to start off using the Brilliant Cinema mode as the basis for your tweaks. (possibly some of the other modes would also be a good starting point... but you need to test, and the result will be different, period!)

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Anyhow, I may try this again and use the 2 extremes (Pure Cinema, and Vivid) and tweak to my preferred numbers to see if I get the exact same image. Just out of curiosity. It is possible that there are inherent gamma or even color differences between all the modes (my guess), but who knows.


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post #29 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 10:10 AM
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I think the reason you aren't seeing the black level being affected, is that for dark scenes, the IRIS will close and basically give you a very decent black level. On bright scenes, the IRIS will open up and give you a great popping image with plenty brightness, and in those scenes the black MAY be suffering (not sure), but it would not be as noticeable as it would be on a very dark scene. I am in agreement with you -- I notice no ill effect on black level by pumping the IRIS all the way up to 'zero'.

My understanding is that by setting the IRIS RANGE at zero, you are basically allowing the iris to open up all the way to 'zero' (max) when bright scenes need it. My understanding is also that the iris will close up all the way to -63 should it need to, for dark scenes (regardless of the range setting).

So, in the end, it appears to me that the IRIS RANGE setting is basically the MAXIMUM OPENING that you are allowing the auto iris to expand to. The user manual is tremendously poor in explaining any of this. It would have saved me hours of tweaking. But then, what fun would that be?! Been testing this with King Kong HD. *WOW!*

One additional note for clarification purposes: According to my tests, when setting IRIS to 'fixed', the iris range setting has absolutely no effect on the image. So it appears the iris range is in fact to be used only with the fast/normal auto iris modes. Exactly the opposite as what I originally thought from several posts back, in the early days of tweaking (which I have now corrected to avoid confusion)

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Originally Posted by paradigm View Post

I tested your settings. As you know I was always a believer in the brilliant image mode. Your user settings for color are perfect for me. THIS is what I couldn't seem to accomplish and had been bothering me about the brilliant mode. (I still like Native for color list tho)

Also, you are VERY correct about the Iris at 0 giving a much brighter image but I was worried about black level. I'm happy to report that it didn't hurt the black level at all (to these eyes). I forgot to check shadow detail but I will do so although I don't remember that suffering either.

It's funny you talk about Fifth Element as your test for skin tones. I use this movie as well!

Thanks so much for your input and findings. They are the answer to brilliant cinema. I knew someone here could finally get the colors correct in that mode. And the info on the Iris does wonder for the brightness of the image.

For those who haven't tried gnolivos brilliant cinema settings please try them out and report how you like the image. I can't imagine anyone having any gripes about what they see! Give us your feedback!


The Moderno Theatre! Slideshow (here, and here!)
Pixar screenplay slideshows here!
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post #30 of 1531 Old 12-18-2007, 04:52 PM
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I also put the iris at zero for my pure cinema setting and it is noticeably a brighter image but not quite as bright as the brilliant. Did you get a chance to do that forr yourself? Had you of done that first you may not have even tried brilliant mode so I am glad it happened the way it did.

If the iris at 0 does have an effect on black in bright scenes so far I haven't been turned off by it. I would think that it would have a washed out look to it if it was bad but I can't recall that being the case. Bright scenes now look wonderful.

This is why I have stuck with Sanyo because I am so familiar with the way the projector in how it operates. However, in the past Z series you would NEVER put the Iris to 0. So this suprised me. The lowest in the past was -26 for my Z4. It greatly affected the blacks in the past.

Good work.
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