Monster Power Question/Help.. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 06-25-2008, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I was not sure where to post this so I hope some of you can help. I recently went on a splurge, and bought the Monster Power AVS 2000 SS(Automatic voltage stabilisor) and a HTPS 7000 MKII SS (line conditioner/surge protector). Now The manuals seem to be independant from each other and the web site is of no help, but I was not sure how to hook them up. By this I mean, do I plug the Voltage stabilizor into the wall, then plug the line conditioner into the Voltage stabilzor or vice a versa? It made sense to do it this way (Voltage stabilizor into the wall 1st), as the components are then plugged into the line conditioner, but then I was wondering if there was some sort of spike, the Voltage stabilzor would get hit (there probably is a fuse somewhere but none that I see) thus I might end up being 'unprotected' as the surge protector is down the line. The problem in doing it the other way is that the Voltage stabilzor only has 6 outlets, and I have to many components but I suppose every component does not need stable voltage? Any thoughts? Anyone use both voltage stabilizor and line conditioner on the same line? Thanks in advanced.

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post #2 of 22 Old 06-25-2008, 08:40 PM
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That is correct. I got the AVS 2000 on clearance at Circuit City and emailed Monster asking how to hook it up with my 3500 reference center and was told the AVS 2000 to the wall and the Reference Center into the AVS 2000.
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post #3 of 22 Old 06-25-2008, 08:58 PM
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Your other option is to take them back to the store and get a refund. Do a search on this forum for very good topics on surge protection and stabilization, and get a $200 box that fits right onto the breaker panel that should do the same or better job of protecting not only your a/v equipment, but your whole house.

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post #4 of 22 Old 06-25-2008, 10:48 PM
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/ducking!

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post #5 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curt Palme View Post

Your other option is to take them back to the store and get a refund. Do a search on this forum for very good topics on surge protection and stabilization, and get a $200 box that fits right onto the breaker panel that should do the same or better job of protecting not only your a/v equipment, but your whole house.

Ahh yes, but does it have the cute little blue lights that flash voltage amperage, etc that I can see? Does it look 'cool' with my AV equipment?

And to jlaavenger, thanks, that was the kind of productive answer that I was looking for.

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post #6 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 06:59 PM
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Apparently to some, money <> brains. Have at it with your little blue lights. My answer was also sincere, but apparently you didn't take it that way.

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post #7 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 07:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curt Palme View Post

Apparently to some, money <> brains. Have at it with your little blue lights. My answer was also sincere, but apparently you didn't take it that way.

No offense taken, but had I asked for whole house voltage stabilzation/protection your thoughts are correct. I was asking how to connect the two Monster products. Plus, this is the > $20 000 forum, how many products priced in that range fit your money <> brains theory??

To many, A-V is a hobby, just like some people collect watches or stamps, or other useless paraphenalia for excessive amounts of money, some people get enjoyment in owning expensive gear. If someone wants to spend $500 for a Denon ethernet cable, thats their business. If they ask how to connect the cable, I do not think that warrants ridicule (or comments like: "why did you not go to monoprice and spent $2 for the same cable", etc).

I specifically chose this forum to post this question assuming others have similar gear. Similarly, you make a big assumption in the amount of $$ I spent.

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post #8 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 08:35 PM
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Even though I have no doubt Monster would happily charge $20K for their products if they thought they could get away with it, they don't. By posting your "how to" question on the $20K forum, you're well aware that you're addressing an audience who for the most part (if not unanimously) has nothing but disdain and contempt for Monster, which is the grand pioneer, and one of (if not the) biggest perpetrators of consumer fraud in the CE industry today.

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To many, A-V is a hobby, just like some people collect watches or stamps, or other useless paraphenalia for excessive amounts of money

That's quite an arrogant, and unfounded, characterization of watches and stamps as "useless paraphenalia." And both items have established worldwide exchanges and trading venues which value these items on their rarity, history, provenance, etc. - so what you consider "excessive amounts of money" is to knowledgeable collectors a wise investment which is not only liquid, but greatly appreciates over time. I highly doubt any of this would apply to Monster products.

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post #9 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 08:55 PM
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How good is the monster power conditioning?

I remember 10+ years ago an MIT/Spectral/Avalon system that sounded great. I ended up getting a Spectral amp & preamp, but didn't get the MIT powerconditioning or Avalons.

I heard the guy who designed the power conditioning for MIT at the time went to Monster and was designing their power conditioners. Don't know if it is true or not.

I'm using 2 APC J15's (one in the equipment room and one for the projector) more for the battery backup functionality than for power conditioning - got to love those Florida brownouts.

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post #10 of 22 Old 06-26-2008, 10:42 PM
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the issue is the same old one.

IF you have serious power issues (which most do not) then a power conditioner MAY assist in cleaning things up.

However there are many things that can be done to the house power system to clean up/run new lines/grounding that will cost FAR LESS than power boxes, and have far more benefit.

on top of this, many of these boxes have been shown time after time to in some cases not improve anything. in some cases, be poorly manufactured. So the reason for using one in the first place is just not understood by some. UNLESS THERE IS A SPECIFIC THING that was not fixed by earlier methods.

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post #11 of 22 Old 06-27-2008, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curt Palme View Post

Your other option is to take them back to the store and get a refund. Do a search on this forum for very good topics on surge protection and stabilization, and get a $200 box that fits right onto the breaker panel that should do the same or better job of protecting not only your a/v equipment, but your whole house.


Can you post a link to the whole house thing?




Also why does Monster catch hell here when Panamax costs more and although it does look cooler than Monster, from what I've read isn't really better?
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post #12 of 22 Old 06-27-2008, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaavenger View Post

Can you post a link to the whole house thing?

My local power company now offers a whole-house surge and lightning protection service for $5/month that includes a device on the incoming meter and a bunch of surge strips. I am sure there is a 'modest' installation fee, but seems like an easy way to get some cheap protection. Might want to cehck with your provider to see if they do something similar.

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post #13 of 22 Old 06-27-2008, 05:45 AM
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I use two of the Monster AVS2000: I don't think anyone else makes anything like this: the AVS2000 has a fast, servo driven variac that can maintain a steady 120 volts output over a wide range of varying input voltage: if you have low line voltage or are subject to brownouts, it is really helpful (it does not do line conditioning)

recently one of my units took an indirect lightning hit and stopped working: it is 9 years old and out of warranty: Monster is replacing with a new unit for $400.00

Monster may deserve criticism for some over priced cables but this is a nice unit and works for me
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post #14 of 22 Old 06-27-2008, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaavenger View Post

Can you post a link to the whole house thing?




Also why does Monster catch hell here when Panamax costs more and although it does look cooler than Monster, from what I've read isn't really better?

There's a couple of threads here that go back a month or two, c/w bashing and useful information..

Monster gets crap from us for the reasons similar that Bose does. Overpriced, overmarketed, overhyped. With Monster it's more their cables and their claims, but I've repaired both blown up Panamax and Monster units.

To me, if you want power protection, you deal with it at the breaker panel, and that is ONLY if your house suffers from brownouts or is prone to lightning strikes. If you have reasonable, stable power, you don't need to spend money on conditioning.

I probably have 2-3X as much electronic equipment on 24/7 as a 'regular' house. I have 4-5 power failures a year, and have NEVER had anything smoke due to a surge. I use zero protection.

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post #15 of 22 Old 06-27-2008, 07:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curt Palme View Post

To me, if you want power protection, you deal with it at the breaker panel, and that is ONLY if your house suffers from brownouts or is prone to lightning strikes. If you have reasonable, stable power, you don't need to spend money on conditioning.

I probably have 2-3X as much electronic equipment on 24/7 as a 'regular' house. I have 4-5 power failures a year, and have NEVER had anything smoke due to a surge. I use zero protection.

I have a whole-house surge protector at the panel, and highly recommend it. I think it's saved me from extensive lightning damage over the years, since other things not protected by the surge unit (well pump, central phone KSU unit connected to phone lines, and even a breaker in the main panel) have been fried by lightning strikes.

Some neighbors w/out surge protection have also lost equipment due to voltage spikes resulting when power was restored after outages.

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post #16 of 22 Old 06-27-2008, 08:14 AM
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I've lost Tv's, VCR and DVD players before but it was several years back before there was such a thing as HDTV. I live in the country so reception was terrible and even when I finally got DirecTV I had snowy screen from time to time. Then I bought a Monster HTS3500 and the image and sound significantly improved from what I remember. This was years ago but I know I was impressed.
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post #17 of 22 Old 06-27-2008, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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That's quite an arrogant, and unfounded, characterization of watches and stamps as "useless paraphenalia." And both items have established worldwide exchanges and trading venues which value these items on their rarity, history, provenance, etc. - so what you consider "excessive amounts of money" is to knowledgeable collectors a wise investment which is not only liquid, but greatly appreciates over time. I highly doubt any of this would apply to Monster products.

I am sorry as my analogy may not have been presented properly, but what I was infering to was function vs cost as a 'hobby', not sentimental or speculative value of items. Most if not all of my collegues who have expensive watches/cars/A-V equipment etc. did not buy such items for the 'investment' value. All of them are extremely well educated and know the value of money, probably better than most. Just because one buys an expensive item, it does not mean that they have no 'brains' as someone above posted.

Your opinions about Monster are yours, but I would bet most people have a threshold and below a certain price point they would buy them despite peoples opinions about the companies financial stategies. I too, like many here, have a similar 'disdain' to Monster becaue of their product pricing, but when the price is right, their products became attractive (at least to me).

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post #18 of 22 Old 06-27-2008, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
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Most if not all of my collegues who have expensive watches/cars/A-V equipment etc. did not buy such items for the 'investment' value.

Agreed, but I think that would apply for the most part to a watch or car you would go out and buy new today. Antique cars and watches (and even some 1970s cars or 1950s watches) routinely sell for 6 and 7 figures, so those would be more for "collectors."

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I would bet most people have a threshold and below a certain price point they would buy them despite peoples opinions about the companies financial stategies.

True. But I, personally, wouldn't buy anything Monster just based on principle: their huckster ["one who uses aggressive, showy, and sometimes devious methods to promote or sell a product"] advertising, outlandish pricing, and fraudulent "scientific" proofs and "A/B comparisons" are just plain offensive, and I don't want to encourage them by buying their products.

Ok....now I'll climb down off my soapbox....

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post #19 of 22 Old 07-02-2008, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curt Palme View Post

Your other option is to take them back to the store and get a refund. Do a search on this forum for very good topics on surge protection and stabilization, and get a $200 box that fits right onto the breaker panel that should do the same or better job of protecting not only your a/v equipment, but your whole house.

Uhh, what about isolation of... anything?
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post #20 of 22 Old 07-03-2008, 06:02 AM
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Generally speaking, if you need transformer isolation of a piece of equipment to eliminate something like hum, you've got a poorly installed/set up system. Again, you can get commerciial grade isolation transformers (I've never needed one in any of the commercial systems I've installed over the last 20 years) that handle more current and are most lilkely built better than anything offered by MOnster or other 'consumer' companies.

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post #21 of 22 Old 12-18-2012, 03:45 PM
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Protection is only part of it, how about the noticeable difference in quality sound. I admit i have a hate hate relationship with Monster, and to some one who's not an electronics engineer I'll just have to take their word on a lot of things. I know they are disgustingly overpriced for no reason and that their TS cables ain't worth a crap. it is mostly flash, hype and bragging rights, and i've read countless consumer reviews where their product failed miserably. However, I still haven't found anything else that improves my Home recording studio's sound quality so noticeably (YET).
I've purchased these two units off eBay and saved over $1,000, of course Monster will only honor warranties of the ridiculously priced sellers, but this way of saying F-U to Monster makes up for it. it is also ridiculous that their flagship models "HTPS 7000 Mk II & AVS 2000" have little to no support. You email them a question and all you'll receive in turn is "Unfortunately....blah, blah, blah." I wanted the mounting brackets and rabbit ears..." Unfortunately they are no longer available." How is that, they still sell the AVS & HTPS (just not the Signature Series, another reason i wen't to eBay). How does a company as arrogant and pretentious as Monster have the balls to charge so much and shun away from providing the necessary accessories.
Also, they say that these two units are the best possible configuration available, yet good luck finding out the best way to configure them: Whats the point of the "Remote Control Hookup option?" The outlets are already rigged to turn everything you have plugged into them on automatically. Is this option intended for other units, or just Monster products. The instructions are vague and use terms like PowerSource, which I'm assuming refers to the unit your reading the manual for.
Anyway, there is a lot of aggravation, mistrust, time, money, and worry involved when dealing with Monster, and if it wasn't for the small fact there is a positive improvement in sound quality I would boycott them altogether. But even if the noticeable difference was more minute than it already is, I still couldn't in good conscience deprive my system of that benefit. Whether it's perfectionism or just obsession it's still a curse, with a fine line between(if any). And of course, logic would have it that possessing the fancier equipment over the less fancy is the more desirable choice. That said, just because you pull all the stops and cater to every detail, doesn't mean someone else can't get better results with cheaper equipment and simpler methods. It almost turns into a question of Karma at that point, or so it seems.

But I digress, what is the best way to configure these two units together? I know the AVS to the Wall socket, and HTPS to the AVS, but how? where? With the Remote Control Hookup, and if not, then why is it there? And in either case, where to, a switched outlet or an always on outlet. I guess the world will never know for sure. What's even worse is that it probably makes no difference.
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post #22 of 22 Old 12-19-2012, 08:45 PM
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Once again I'm beating everyone else to the punch and replying to my own question, as to the original which also wound up digressing to some silliness over spending excess money on trinkets or something to that effect. Anyway, i've dabbled a bit with the configurations and have come to an indisputable and satisfactory conclusion ~ the best way to configure an HTPS 7000 with an AVS 2000 is:

Plug the AVS into the wall first we already know, then connect the HTPS power cord to the AVS 2000. If you connect it to a "Switchable Outlet" on the AVS, whenever you turn on your AVS 2000 the HTPS 7000 powers up as well. But then if you turn off the AVS the HTPS doesn't power down properly, i.e., you lose the great added feature of programming the outlets on the HTPS to follow in whatever sequence you specify, protecting subsequent gear from power spikes, etc. So instead everything just dies out abruptly.
You also lose all power to the HTPS including the" Always On" outlet feature. Where you would normally connect video gear like TVs, DVRs, etc. (of course you would want these at the ready in "Always On" outlets on the HTPS).

Of course, you can just connect the HTPS to an "Always On" outlet on the AVS, and power down the HTPS first (allowing the HTPS to power down accordingly, and then manually turn off the AVS as well. But that defeats the purpose of the technological convenience, besides, this is where the Remote Control feature comes in.

There should be a two prong Remote AC Control Cord that comes with the HTPS 7000 (if not, you can always get one, looks just like a typical boom box power cord (AC 120 v). Connect the female end to the HTPS (of course, there's no place else to put it) and then connect the male end to an AVS "Switchable Outlet." Now whenever the AVS is switched on or off, the HTPS will follow it's lead. So now all you need do is turn off the AVS, and with the HTPS power cord in an "Always On" outlet, and the Remote Control Cord in a "Switchable Outlet," the HTPS will power down accordingly all it's "Switchable outlets" and commence to Stand By mode (allowing continuous power through to the "Always On" outlets).

For example, I have all my audio recording studio gear set up to power up and down accordingly; 0 seconds = preamp and Compressor (analog audio outlet pair); 1 second = Voice Processor (Digital pair); 7 seconds = [Axe Fx 2] signal processor A/D converter/computer interface (second Digital pair); 14 seconds = [Genelec] speaker monitors (highpower pair). Powering down the order is reversed in the signal chain.

All these are obviously connected to switchable outlets on the HTPS controlled remotely from the AVS through the Remote Cord feature.
But i wouldn't want my TV or PS3 connected to these Switchable outlets because not only would i have to again turn to the AVS whenever I wanted to watch TV or Netflix, etc. but it would also turn on all my Recording gear as well. So naturally, all video entertainment is connected to the Video outlets on my HTPS which of course are set to "ON" meaning Always On outlets because the HTPS receives constant power from the Always On outlets on the AVS. Therefore, i always have access to my entertainment center in the normal fashion, even with the AVS turned off (as long as it's plugged into a wall outlet) setting my HTPS into Stand By mode, meaning all switchable outlets are off.

Of course, you can configure the outlets to your specific needs. I also have the other pair of my Hi Power outlets on the HTPS set to Always On, if I just want to use my ENGL guitar amplifier to just play guitar I don't need to have all my recording gear on to do that. Get creative, you'll be surprised at what you can come up with over time with some imagination. I've only begun to start experimenting with the possibilities. Which, BTW, none of this can be achieved by attending soley to the house's main electrical system in general. So i suppose my Hate Hate relationship with Monster was a little harsh. I guess it depends on how long these units will last, since i dodged the price gouging bullet and purchased both units off eBay. They're both in mint condition aesthetically and operationally, saved well over $1,600, and even got the discontinued Limited Signature Series. Which, BTW, you can still find on occasion for over $1,500 each, and even under warranty, I believe. but I have too much Gear on my list yet to attain, and it wont be postponed due to Monsters greed and utter disregard for their users. it's not like Monster didn't profit off my units somewhere along the line, nor that it doesn't reflect on them if their products fail, whether under their specific warranty guidelines or not, it's still the same make. And that's all i have to say about that...

...but there's still always the question now "What's the difference between this set up with the Remote AC Control Hookup, and the other option: the Remote DC Control Hookup (1/8 mini plug cable). It says here in the manual that the latter is "...to allow your PowerSource to be turned on and off with a Home Automated Control System" WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?! I get it, as opposed to by an A/V receiver or preamplifier WHAT DOES THAT MEAN aren't preamps for audio? Anyway, i guess I can go back to the drawing board and dabble some more if I really want to find out so bad. Oh Monster, does it ever end with all your pretentiousness already, we're not all electronic know it all's just yet. And i suppose if we were you'd be out of business, because all the pro techs seem to loath you most and find better (and cheaper) ways around such issues.
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