Once again I'm beating everyone else to the punch and replying to my own question, as to the original which also wound up digressing to some silliness over spending excess money on trinkets or something to that effect. Anyway, i've dabbled a bit with the configurations and have come to an indisputable and satisfactory conclusion ~ the best way to configure an HTPS 7000 with an AVS 2000 is:
Plug the AVS into the wall first we already know, then connect the HTPS power cord to the AVS 2000. If you connect it to a "Switchable Outlet" on the AVS, whenever you turn on your AVS 2000 the HTPS 7000 powers up as well. But then if you turn off the AVS the HTPS doesn't power down properly, i.e., you lose the great added feature of programming the outlets on the HTPS to follow in whatever sequence you specify, protecting subsequent gear from power spikes, etc. So instead everything just dies out abruptly.
You also lose all power to the HTPS including the" Always On" outlet feature. Where you would normally connect video gear like TVs, DVRs, etc. (of course you would want these at the ready in "Always On" outlets on the HTPS).
Of course, you can just connect the HTPS to an "Always On" outlet on the AVS, and power down the HTPS first (allowing the HTPS to power down accordingly, and then manually turn off the AVS as well. But that defeats the purpose of the technological convenience, besides, this is where the Remote Control feature comes in.
There should be a two prong Remote AC Control Cord that comes with the HTPS 7000 (if not, you can always get one, looks just like a typical boom box power cord (AC 120 v). Connect the female end to the HTPS (of course, there's no place else to put it) and then connect the male end to an AVS "Switchable Outlet." Now whenever the AVS is switched on or off, the HTPS will follow it's lead. So now all you need do is turn off the AVS, and with the HTPS power cord in an "Always On" outlet, and the Remote Control Cord in a "Switchable Outlet," the HTPS will power down accordingly all it's "Switchable outlets" and commence to Stand By mode (allowing continuous power through to the "Always On" outlets).
For example, I have all my audio recording studio gear set up to power up and down accordingly; 0 seconds = preamp and Compressor (analog audio outlet pair); 1 second = Voice Processor (Digital pair); 7 seconds = [Axe Fx 2] signal processor A/D converter/computer interface (second Digital pair); 14 seconds = [Genelec] speaker monitors (highpower pair). Powering down the order is reversed in the signal chain.
All these are obviously connected to switchable outlets on the HTPS controlled remotely from the AVS through the Remote Cord feature.
But i wouldn't want my TV or PS3 connected to these Switchable outlets because not only would i have to again turn to the AVS whenever I wanted to watch TV or Netflix, etc. but it would also turn on all my Recording gear as well. So naturally, all video entertainment is connected to the Video outlets on my HTPS which of course are set to "ON" meaning Always On outlets because the HTPS receives constant power from the Always On outlets on the AVS. Therefore, i always have access to my entertainment center in the normal fashion, even with the AVS turned off (as long as it's plugged into a wall outlet) setting my HTPS into Stand By mode, meaning all switchable outlets are off.
Of course, you can configure the outlets to your specific needs. I also have the other pair of my Hi Power outlets on the HTPS set to Always On, if I just want to use my ENGL guitar amplifier to just play guitar I don't need to have all my recording gear on to do that. Get creative, you'll be surprised at what you can come up with over time with some imagination. I've only begun to start experimenting with the possibilities. Which, BTW, none of this can be achieved by attending soley to the house's main electrical system in general. So i suppose my Hate Hate relationship with Monster was a little harsh. I guess it depends on how long these units will last, since i dodged the price gouging bullet and purchased both units off eBay. They're both in mint condition aesthetically and operationally, saved well over $1,600, and even got the discontinued Limited Signature Series. Which, BTW, you can still find on occasion for over $1,500 each, and even under warranty, I believe. but I have too much Gear on my list yet to attain, and it wont be postponed due to Monsters greed and utter disregard for their users. it's not like Monster didn't profit off my units somewhere along the line, nor that it doesn't reflect on them if their products fail, whether under their specific warranty guidelines or not, it's still the same make. And that's all i have to say about that...
...but there's still always the question now "What's the difference between this set up with the Remote AC Control Hookup, and the other option: the Remote DC Control Hookup (1/8 mini plug cable). It says here in the manual that the latter is "...to allow your PowerSource to be turned on and off with a Home Automated Control System" WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?! I get it, as opposed to by an A/V receiver or preamplifier WHAT DOES THAT MEAN aren't preamps for audio? Anyway, i guess I can go back to the drawing board and dabble some more if I really want to find out so bad. Oh Monster, does it ever end with all your pretentiousness already, we're not all electronic know it all's just yet. And i suppose if we were you'd be out of business, because all the pro techs seem to loath you most and find better (and cheaper) ways around such issues.