AVS Forum Addicted Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
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That's the only thing I'm disappointed with. Hey, the Casablanca is an amazing piece, but if the bass management worked so that LEFT BASS goes into LEFT sub (sub1), RIGHT BASS goes into RIGHT SUB (sub2) and the same for the surrounds (aka discrete subs PER CHANNEL) that would be the ultimate icing on the cake for my setup, as this is what I do. This way when using a separate DAC card, that would be perfect and then I could ditch my external crossovers.
The problem is that once I get the Casablanca, there's no way I'd put the external crossovers between the amp and Preamp...there's just too much loss in fidelity. I really don't want to give up my discrete bass per channel...[some will argue with me that 4 mono subs as with the current Casablanca configuration won't sound any different but I disagree]. So I may just feed the whole system full-range, and daisy a line level signal off of the main speaker terminal into that channel's corresponding sub. Doubling up on bass? Yup...but...I won't care too much...maybe :S Hmmmm...bypass all bass management and feed everything full range...no post processing killing the sound...sounds like a good plan...but then the other argument is my amps are working harder to deliver full range audio...but who cares as that defeats using full-range towers... In the end...all ways are compromises...I'll find the one that works best for me.
Hey Theta, if you are reading...how about upgrading your bass management to include discrete-sub channels on a per channel basis when using another DAC card for the subs [nudge nudge, wink wink]
I only have about 4 feet from my listening position to the back wall so I'm not sure rear speakers of any kind are well suited to my room. 7.x was just a last minute thought while awaiting the arrival of my new CB3HD.
Subwoofers, as you probably know, should be placed around the room where they happen to give the flatest response, it could be right next to your chair but more then likely somewhere near a corner or center wall is most common I believe. Of course it all depends on the shape of the room and what's in it.
My rear sub at the present time is very near the middle of the back wall, which seems to be working ok but I don't have alot of ambition due to the lack of my energy level to try moving it around the back of the room. I'm sure I could get a flatter response if I tried hard enough but I'm not getting much of an over exagerated boom, so the set-up will do for now with no real big problems. I've heard much worse from what should be better rooms. If I am not feeling particlarly well, I can simply turn it right off with the remote trigger on the CB-IIIHD
Still, you might benifit from placing it that 4' directly behind you since you probably won't easily be able to tell where the bass from behind you is comming from.
This third sub isn't even the same as my front two, which I bought when I had much wider main speakers and a pair of 12'' subs where all that would fit at the time.
I could go alot bigger now but their not too bad as it is and with my 15" in the rear, it kinda puts me way over the top for the build quality of the entire building anyway
If you can get your hands on a demo or loaner from someone, I'd seriously give it a shot.
As I've said many times, I'm no calibrator and I found it pretty tough to integrate that third sub myself, I'm sure a pro could do a much better job, but I still think the room sounds better with the three subs then with only the front two.
Having the crossover and volume control from that additional DAC output really helped me out, since this older sub does not have any of the control that the newer ones I have do.
Although I realize I could buy even more stuff to help match them all up better then they are, this spending has to slow down, just a little bit. I know we could all keep spending forever but there's still other stuff I want in here that I feel might be more important to me right now.
This Revel 15'' sub doesn't even dig as deep as the smaller new ones but I always liked it's tone, and it moves plenty of air and I think I have it blending better then I thought I'd be able to manage.
So I really can't complain when something is blowing up and that explosion is supposed to be comming, at least in part, from the rear, and I actually feel it from behind me!
Well since it is past 4am again, I hope what I have attempted to explain about how I set it up makes sence. Why are all of the good questions these days asked after midnight!
The Theta manual seems to state that although the subs are not directly tied to each discrete channel... there is some separation:
Subs can be tied to fronts and surrounds, and even the center channel if you have enough subs. For the low pass data anyway. The LFE output is distributed evenly.
Does having the LFE/low pass tied to the left/right channels really make that much difference?
Now I'm intrigued -I'm always looking for a better sounding setup! :-)
From the manual:
If the #SUBS is set to 2 they can be either L-R or F-R. If set to L-R (Front Left/Right), any LFE and the low pass
portion of any front speakers that are crossed over will be routed to the front left/right sub woofers. (The LFE is
divided by 2, added to any low pass information and distributed evenly between them). If the #SUBS is set to F-R (2
subs - 1 front and 1 rear), each sub will get half of the LFE. The low pass portion of any front speakers that are
crossed over will be routed to the front sub whereas the low pass portion of any surround speakers will be routed to
the rear sub woofer.
If the #SUBS is 3, the low pass portion of the front speakers that are crossed over will be routed to the 2 front subs
and the low pass from the surround speakers that are crossed over will be routed to the rear sub. LFE will be divided
by 3 and routed equally between the 3 subs, added to any low pass signal. If there are more than 3 DAC channels
assigned to subs yet the #SUBS is set to 3, the third, or rear sub will be output from the channel marked SUB 3 or
LEFT SURROUND SUB. When the #SUBS is set to 3, the first 2 will always be the FRONT LEFT and FRONT
RIGHT subs and the third will always be used for low pass signals from the surround speakers, plus some LFE.
If the #SUBS 4, each sub will get 1⁄4 of the LFE. Additionally, the low pass signal from any front speakers that are
crossed over will be routed to the front subs (SUB 1 and SUB 2) and the low pass signal from any surround speakers
that are crossed over will be routed to the surround subs (SUB 3 and SUB 4).
In this case, SUB1 = Left Front Sub, Sub2 = Right Front Sub, Sub3 = Left Surround sub and Sub4 = Right Surround
If the #SUBS is 5, each sub will get 1/5 of the LFE. The low pass signal from the front left/right speakers, if crossed
over, will be routed to the front left and right subs. If the center speaker is crossed over, its low pass signal will be
routed to the SUB5 output. The low pass signal from any surround speakers that are crossed over will be routed to
the left/right surround subs.
Yep, I have read pages 53 & 54 dozens of times. The CB does know the difference between front and rear subs and will crossover the associated speakers accordingly. However, I see nothing that shows it knows the difference between left and right when 2 subs are selected and set to L-R.