The official Theta Owners Thread - Page 308 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9211 of 9219 Unread Today, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by dancjodanc View Post
I'm running Magnapan's speakers. They require a lot of power. Currently I'm running 400 watts into the front 3 channels of my setup. I'm really interested in switching to the Dread D.....and wondered if anyone had a thought if the 225 cards would be enough to drive the Maggie's? I know I can double up and get 400 watts a channel...but I would like to keep my config for the Dread D with 7 channels for my set up.
You should probably ask this question of your speaker manufacturer.

You could always buy 2 Dreadnaughts!!!@@@

You mean you don't remember me? Back 1999 - 2003, I started and moderated the AVS Tweaks forum and also the AVS Special Guests forum.

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post #9212 of 9219 Unread Today, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Bruzonsky View Post
You should probably ask this question of your speaker manufacturer.

You could always buy 2 Dreadnaughts!!!@@@
Yeah baby! Two Dreadnaught Ds. 😊
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post #9213 of 9219 Unread Today, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dancjodanc View Post
I'm running Magnapan's speakers. They require a lot of power. Currently I'm running 400 watts into the front 3 channels of my setup. I'm really interested in switching to the Dread D.....and wondered if anyone had a thought if the 225 cards would be enough to drive the Maggie's? I know I can double up and get 400 watts a channel...but I would like to keep my config for the Dread D with 7 channels for my set up.
Just throwing this out there. If you aren't tied to Theta and are looking for amps that will have enough power to handle just about anything then there are high wattage amps like the Emotiva XPR-1 (1000 watts into 8 ohms, 1750 in 4), McIntosh MC1.2KW's (1200 watts in 8,4 & 2, its actually over 1200 in reality), and Bryston 28B-SST2's (1000 watts into 8 ohms, over 2000 into 4) . For slightly less power there is the Bryston 7B-SST2's (600 watts into 8 ohms, 900 into 4), McIntosh 601's (600 watts into 8, 4 & 2 ohms) and the Emotiva XPA-1 (600 watts into 8 ohms and 1000 watts into 4). All three have stereo amps that do 600 or there abouts as well, Bryston 14B-SST2, McIntosh MC452 and Emotiva XPR-2

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post #9214 of 9219 Unread Today, 03:22 PM
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I'm running class D now...and like the efficiency! And the low heat! I don't think I can turn back from that....and I used to own the Dread II. I just LOVE the look of the Dread's....and with the D running SO much cooler....I'm wanting to switch back. I'm sure they can power the Maggie's just fine....just wanted another opinion. Since I'm running 5 maggie's in a theater set up.
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post #9215 of 9219 Unread Today, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dancjodanc View Post
I'm running class D now...and like the efficiency! And the low heat! I don't think I can turn back from that....and I used to own the Dread II. I just LOVE the look of the Dread's....and with the D running SO much cooler....I'm wanting to switch back. I'm sure they can power the Maggie's just fine....just wanted another opinion. Since I'm running 5 maggie's in a theater set up.
5 Maggie's - you could get 5 Prometheus monoblocks!

You mean you don't remember me? Back 1999 - 2003, I started and moderated the AVS Tweaks forum and also the AVS Special Guests forum.

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http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1158431
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post #9216 of 9219 Unread Today, 04:23 PM
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If I could get 5 mono blocks I would...but with the bug for a new amp already here, and the update to the Casa IV I want to do when it comes out....I have to watch where the $ go!
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post #9217 of 9219 Unread Today, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dancjodanc View Post
I'm running class D now...and like the efficiency! And the low heat! I don't think I can turn back from that....and I used to own the Dread II. I just LOVE the look of the Dread's....and with the D running SO much cooler....I'm wanting to switch back. I'm sure they can power the Maggie's just fine....just wanted another opinion. Since I'm running 5 maggie's in a theater set up.
Yeah the low to no heat thing must be very nice and I can see wanting to keep that convenience plus I agree the Theta faceplates are super sexy.

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post #9218 of 9219 Unread Today, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
I understand the reason for room correction. More often than not it is needed. There is a counter argument as to why it isn't used as well. This says it best. If you have not watched this, it is WELL worth the effort. See
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_l1IkpzeuQI
Per the video, I don't want to touch the top end of my speakers. My ears don't prefer it. If you like to enact curves then by definition, you are right because it is your subjective opinion.
I have no issues what-so-ever to engage room EQ below 500 hz even in a semi-near perfect room. And to reaffirm, I see the value of adjusting the FR (via curves) for some speakers and some rooms and for some ears.

OT: Thanks for the nice video. Paul Hales (a familiar name from high end audio in the 90's) was talking about the transition/Shroeder frequency, above which room correction is quite controversial and NOT necessarily always "justified." My understanding is that almost by definition, there is no such thing as *room* correction above Shroeder. Above this frequency, all so called "room correction" algorithms are correcting the speaker's power response, in essence, the very sound of the speaker that the designer is aiming for. Not necessarily a good idea. This has been discussed by various pro's on this forum: Amir in his Wide Screen Review writing, Nyal Melor in his excellent blog http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/201...a-primer-html/, etc.

I would also like to add that to me, justification for room correction at high frequency, and adjusting the sound using equalizer/bass-treble controls to fit taste are 2 different "things." For example in my case although I don't believe in room correction above Shroeder in the scientific sense, I do like to use (gasp) the tone control/equalizer at all frequencies to adjust certain ****ty sounding material to my taste. I use it in my cars all the time and would love to try it in my high end system. Most main stream recording/music is so harsh/strident in the high frequency that I invariably turn up the bass and turn down the treble in my cars.


Regards, Can
Theta: Stunning 3D soundstage, sublime details, unlimited dynamics and low end response - the processor for music lovers. My system & CBIII HD review & setup help - Post # 3913 and High-End Speaker Impressions & 3D Audio Comments Here
Give vinyl and tube preamp a try - the sound from heaven! :-)

Last edited by cannga; Today at 09:35 PM.
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post #9219 of 9219 Unread Today, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post
OT: Thanks for the nice video. Paul Hales (a familiar name from high end audio in the 90's) was talking about the transition/Shroeder frequency, above which room correction is quite controversial and NOT necessarily always "justified." My understanding is that almost by definition, there is no such thing as *room* correction above Shroeder. Above this frequency, all so called "room correction" algorithms are correcting the speaker's power response, in essence, the very sound of the speaker that the designer is aiming for. Not necessarily a good idea. This has been discussed by various pro's on this forum: Amir in his Wide Screen Review writing, Nyal Melor in his excellent blog http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/201...a-primer-html/, etc.

I would also like to add that to me, justification for room correction at high frequency, and adjusting the sound using equalizer/bass-treble controls to fit taste are 2 different "things." For example in my case although I don't believe in room correction above Shroeder in the scientific sense, I do like to use (gasp) the tone control/equalizer at all frequencies to adjust certain ****ty sounding material to my taste. I use it in my cars all the time and would love to try it in my high end system. Most main stream recording/music is so harsh/strident in the high frequency that I invariably turn up the bass and turn down the treble in my cars.

Why would it make a difference to the listener if the non flat frequency response the he is hearing is due to room interaction or inherent speaker frequency response?
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