The official Theta Owners Thread - Page 358 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10711 of 10738 Old 08-12-2016, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ANRE View Post

What I do not know is, if you combine the Gen 8 with the CB, you still can use the Gen 8 inputs.

Yes you can. I've done this. You simply need to setup the Gen VIII for the source that you are connecting by interconnect to the back of the Gen VIII AND hit the input/source button on the front of the Gen VIII (or use the remote) for the source!

You mean you don't remember me? Back 1999 - 2003, I started and moderated the AVS Tweaks forum and also the AVS Special Guests forum.

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post #10712 of 10738 Old 08-12-2016, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Bruzonsky View Post
Yes you can. I've done this. You simply need to setup the Gen VIII for the source that you are connecting by interconnect to the back of the Gen VIII AND hit the input/source button on the front of the Gen VIII (or use the remote) for the source!
And volume is controlled by the CB as normal ?

So what you are sayin is that when you use the Gen 8 with the CB, you actually get additional digital inputs (and analoge) into your system.
But you will have to use the Gen 8 remote as the CB can't control these. Only volume as in any setup where you have this combination.

Then it also make sense to upgrade the Gen 8 with a USB input
Probably easier to do than on the CB.

Last edited by ANRE; 08-12-2016 at 11:55 AM.
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post #10713 of 10738 Old 08-12-2016, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ANRE View Post
And volume is controlled by the CB as normal ?

So what you are sayin is that when you use the Gen 8 with the CB, you actually get additional digital inputs (and analoge) into your system.
But you will have to use the Gen 8 remote as the CB can't control these. Only volume as in any setup where you have this combination.

Then it also make sense to upgrade the Gen 8 with a USB input
Probably easier to do than on the CB.
Any inputs to the Gen VIII, which are NOT the balanced digital input from the CB SSP, obviously will only work for the Gen VIII and not the CB, meaning that you lose the digital bass management and Dirac room correction for such inputs to the Gen VIII.

You mean you don't remember me? Back 1999 - 2003, I started and moderated the AVS Tweaks forum and also the AVS Special Guests forum.

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post #10714 of 10738 Old 08-12-2016, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANRE View Post
I just bought a reasonably priced Intrepid 5 ch amp.
I was thinking of trying biamping on my Martin Logan Odyssey with my Gen8 S3.

Does anyone know for sure if I can use both the XLR and RCA output simultaneously ?
ANRE

Yes as far as outputs , you could and it should be okay but there may gain issues and you could have mixed results. I would use a XLR y Cable to be safe and it doesn't present any loss issues to worry about.

craig

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post #10715 of 10738 Old 08-15-2016, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANRE View Post
I've been reading more on the Internet. The XLR Y-splitter is safest option.

http://www.psaudio.com/pauls-posts/bi-amp/
"There are several words of caution when bi-amping speakers. First, the input signals must be identical. You cannot use the preamp’s RCA output for one amp, the XLR output for the other (for multiple reasons, not the least of which is the 6dB gain difference). If the preamplifier has only one of each, which is typical, use a patch cord signal splitter. Secondly, the power amplifiers themselves must be gain matched–and closely."
Agreed - XLR y splitter is the safest way.

Regarding biamping the Martin Logan, I used to do same with my Martin Logan Monolith (now boxed up in my garage due to lack of space ), except the Monolith allows me to use an external crossover as well. With external crossover and tube amp on the electrostat panel, and solid state amp on the woofer, the speaker CAME ALIVE! Have fun with your biamp experiment.

Regards, Can
My System & Theta Casablanca CBIII HD Mini-review CBIII HD - the processor for music lovers: stunning 3D soundstage and imaging, rich & full sonics, "black" background, and of course off-the-chart dynamic range!
High-End Speaker Impressions & 3D Audio Comments Give vinyl and tube preamp a try, then let a tube amp complete the fantastic audio "journey" :-).
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post #10716 of 10738 Old 08-16-2016, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Don't know what you are looking for, and no flame please LOL, but I use this cheap HDMI 1.4 switcher for my Kuro plasma in the living room: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

It switches automatically to whichever device that is powered on, meaning most of the times I don't even know it's there. Of course, digital signal so bit is bit (tongue in cheek), therefore no degradation in video/audio quality that I could tell.
Hey Cannga (and others)

I am in a similar boat. I used to use a DVDO edge to switch but that recently died. So I now need an HDMI splitter, ideally HDCP 2.2 compliant.

Sounds like folks are using a few options....and my takes and what I learnt from reading the past discussions....
....HDMI input 1 on CBIV is HDCP 2.2 compliant. so this is where a 4k input such as a Roku4 or Sony 4k server would go (would need an HDCP 2.2. splitter)

In terms of splitters....options include:
1. Lumagen. industry standard. most expensive option

2. Fury https://www.hdfury.com/shop/splitter...60-444-600mhz/
$600 bucks but appears to be HDCP 2.2 compliant. HDCP debugging features appear to be really attractive. But only 2x2.

3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU...SIN=B00B46XUQU

4. Atlona ...multiple options
https://www.amazon.com/Atlona-Techno...tlona+splitter

$20 buck option appears to work great. Cannga - which of the 4 options they have on the Amazon page do you recommend?


am leaning towards the Fury so I can (finally) watch 4k through the CB into my Sony vw1000es projector. any advice?
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post #10717 of 10738 Old 08-16-2016, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adanny View Post
Hey Cannga (and others)

I am in a similar boat. I used to use a DVDO edge to switch but that recently died. So I now need an HDMI splitter, ideally HDCP 2.2 compliant. ......

$20 buck option appears to work great. Cannga - which of the 4 options they have on the Amazon page do you recommend?.....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First please note I am using this incredibly cheap splitter only for my Kuro plasma. The one I bought is the V1.4 3 Port W/IR $12.74. This is the one with the rectangular shape - *NOT* the one with the triangular shape.

I have 2 for my 2 Kuros and they each work perfectly. They switch automatically to whichever source that is powered on so I never have to switch manually.

I bought one with a triangular shape from another company and that failed miserably. Typical for inexpensive Chinese stuffs: always incredibly cheap but inconsistent quality and sometimes don't work at all :-).

Regards, Can
My System & Theta Casablanca CBIII HD Mini-review CBIII HD - the processor for music lovers: stunning 3D soundstage and imaging, rich & full sonics, "black" background, and of course off-the-chart dynamic range!
High-End Speaker Impressions & 3D Audio Comments Give vinyl and tube preamp a try, then let a tube amp complete the fantastic audio "journey" :-).
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post #10718 of 10738 Old 08-16-2016, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cannga View Post
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First please note I am using this incredibly cheap splitter only for my Kuro plasma. The one I bought is the V1.4 3 Port W/IR $12.74. This is the one with the rectangular shape - *NOT* the one with the triangular shape.

I have 2 for my 2 Kuros and they each work perfectly. They switch automatically to whichever source that is powered on so I never have to switch manually.

I bought one with a triangular shape from another company and that failed miserably. Typical for inexpensive Chinese stuffs: always incredibly cheap but inconsistent quality and sometimes don't work at all :-).
ok - many thanks cannga. just bought it. at $20, worth the experiment! I can use the HDMI1 input in the cb4 for the higher rez 4K input (Roku4), and can use this for my regular rez inputs (karaoke machine, XBOX one, apple TV).
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post #10719 of 10738 Old 08-17-2016, 03:10 PM
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These devices from A/V ProConnect work. I've used them. Here's the main page.

http://www.avprostore.com/category-s/2025.htm

Give it a go.

Here's the 4-in 1-out AC-DA14-AUHD

http://www.avprostore.com/18GBPS-Tru...sw411-auhd.htm

Last edited by Michael Osadciw; 08-17-2016 at 07:46 PM.
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post #10720 of 10738 Old 08-21-2016, 05:23 AM
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Any news on the NC500 based multichannel amp from ATI?

Also, does anyone know if the Theta Prometheus/Dreadnaught NC1200 offerings are DC coupled? It is interesting (peculiar and perhaps risky?) that the NC400 modules are DC coupled and that the NC500 LM4562-based "recommended input buffer design" is also DC coupled.

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post #10721 of 10738 Old 08-21-2016, 08:33 PM
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Don't know. Theta has always been boringly reliable so it's hard to imagine them doing something that would be unstable. A thing that's not always true in the high end world.

I do know that the more I look the more I want a Dreadnaught D and Extreme D3. Talking to Craig just makes it worse. Anyone know what souls are going for these days?


Les

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post #10722 of 10738 Old 08-22-2016, 01:02 AM
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I can't speak for the Dreadnaught - it's on my shopping list (for its thermal beauty and an extension to more than 5 channels) but only when I move State-side; for now the only new amps I am adding are ones I am building for fun. On the other hand, I can say that D3 is just lovely. For most if not all of us, however, an NC-500 based amp will have considerably more than enough power. So it will be interesting to see what comes from ATI. I've listened to the NC500 (with SMPS) driving my Andra III and it is really rather good. I'm puzzled regarding the DC coupling though. I wonder if Theta and ATI have gone DC coupled also. Perhaps Jeff will chime in on both counts.

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post #10723 of 10738 Old 08-23-2016, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Les Auber View Post
Don't know. Theta has always been boringly reliable so it's hard to imagine them doing something that would be unstable. A thing that's not always true in the high end world.

I do know that the more I look the more I want a Dreadnaught D and Extreme D3. Talking to Craig just makes it worse. Anyone know what souls are going for these days?


Les
I pre-ordered the D3 DAC (from Craig) as soon as I heard it was available. I am enjoying it immensely. I would HIGHLY recommend getting the D3 DAC first as it is closest to the source. The improvement is not subtle.
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post #10724 of 10738 Old 08-23-2016, 06:58 AM
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Hi Craig/VGI,

Do you think we'll get some information soon at CEDIA about the IVa and E? Perhaps Theta will be there with one if not both to display?

Thanks

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post #10725 of 10738 Old 08-23-2016, 09:12 AM
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Thanks gents. The D3 is first as I recall the unsubtle improvement when I went from Superior to D2.


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post #10726 of 10738 Old 08-23-2016, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Les Auber View Post
Thanks gents. The D3 is first as I recall the unsubtle improvement when I went from Superior to D2.


Les
Over the years, I've had the superior, premium, D2 and D3 DACs (thanks, Craig). To my ears, only the D3 is truly audiophile. Compared to the D2, distortion is down an order of magnitude with the D3 and listening to music, the difference in the background blackness and microdynamics is striking, particularly with the Dread D. My wife, who only cares about the home theater aspects, claims voices are much easier to understand and gives the D3 two thumbs up.
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post #10727 of 10738 Old 08-25-2016, 08:08 AM
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Over the years, I've had the superior, premium, D2 and D3 DACs (thanks, Craig). To my ears, only the D3 is truly audiophile. Compared to the D2, distortion is down an order of magnitude with the D3 and listening to music, the difference in the background blackness and microdynamics is striking, particularly with the Dread D. My wife, who only cares about the home theater aspects, claims voices are much easier to understand and gives the D3 two thumbs up.


I imagine if I were to compare them all today I'd give a similar review. However, in their time I thought each held up guite well compared to what I had at the time. I've no doubt the D3 is that much better. Why I've got to have it.

As I've gotten older I find voice intelligibility to be more important. (I used to understand them just fine, what's up with that?) Another factor that really helped over the change the D2 made was Dirac. I won't mind having to repeat the setup for a D3.


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post #10728 of 10738 Old 08-25-2016, 08:59 AM
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What are the specs of the D3? I see talk of 24/192 and 384. How does 384 factor in here, is that just a mistake/misunderstanding by people because from all I can gather reading the website it's 24/192, not 24(or 32)/384 like some other current DAC's.

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post #10729 of 10738 Old 08-25-2016, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Les Auber View Post
I imagine if I were to compare them all today I'd give a similar review. However, in their time I thought each held up guite well compared to what I had at the time. I've no doubt the D3 is that much better. Why I've got to have it.

As I've gotten older I find voice intelligibility to be more important. (I used to understand them just fine, what's up with that?) Another factor that really helped over the change the D2 made was Dirac. I won't mind having to repeat the setup for a D3.


Les


Chuckle; question is tongue in cheek? We are all ageing Les, and unfortunately not so much like a fine wine. More like "oxydizing/decaying" away . Hearing loss, visual loss (things don't look so bright anymore) - nasty stuffs for our hobby and inevitable.

The more reasons to get that Xtreme D3 and Sony 5000 asap?!

BTW I like that Logitech Ultimate Ears app you mentioned. Very handy for my last audio show.

Regards, Can
My System & Theta Casablanca CBIII HD Mini-review CBIII HD - the processor for music lovers: stunning 3D soundstage and imaging, rich & full sonics, "black" background, and of course off-the-chart dynamic range!
High-End Speaker Impressions & 3D Audio Comments Give vinyl and tube preamp a try, then let a tube amp complete the fantastic audio "journey" :-).
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post #10730 of 10738 Old 08-25-2016, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod#S View Post
What are the specs of the D3? I see talk of 24/192 and 384. How does 384 factor in here, is that just a mistake/misunderstanding by people because from all I can gather reading the website it's 24/192, not 24(or 32)/384 like some other current DAC's.
Rod, see table below. The chip (8 of them on that card - for fully balanced dual differential circuitry - partly explains the incredible sound) is Burr Brown 1792, which is 24/192.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
http://www.soundbsessive.com/informa...out-dac-chips/
Burr-Brown: Multibit:
PCM51, PCM52 – 16-bit predecessors PCM53, a ceramic package
PCM53 16-bit, one of the old, but good (1983-86 years), with a parallel input
PCM54 16 bit multibitnik normal (slightly older PCM56), parallel input
PCM55 16 bits, the same as the PCM54, only in a small SOIC package
PCM56 16 bit, normal quality multibitnik
PCM58 18-bit, a very good DAC
PCM61 18-bit, the quality of a PCM56, but 18-bit
PCM63 20-bit, one of the best of the world’s Theta Gen V
PCM64 18-bit, one of the best, with a parallel input
PCM65 – one of the best, most expensive and rare multibitnikov, with parallel input
PCM66 16-bit DAC-2 and, huddled in a single housing, the quality – so so
PCM67 hybrid (multi + one-bit), 2 DACs and in one case (stereo) My Theta Pro Basic II
PCM69 hybrid (multi + one bit), the same as the PCM67
PCM1700 18-bit, 2-DAC and in one case (stereo), the quality level PCM61
PCM1701 18-bit, one of the best, the successor technology PCM58
PCM1702 20-bit, the quality just below the PCM63
PCM1704 24-bit (edit), the same as the PCM1702, Theta Xtreme
but only able to accept 24-bit stream (converting all the same 20-bit)[/B]

Burr-Brown Single-bit:

PCM1600 / 1601, cheap
PCM1607, cheap
PCM1710, normal odnobitnik
PCM1715, cheap
PCM1716, cheap odnobitnik receiving 24bit/96kGts.
PCM1723, cheap
PCM1728 odnobitnik receiving 24bit/96kGts.
PCM1732 is more or less of the one-bit
PCM1738 is more or less of the one-bit, slightly better PCM1732
PCM1792 – newer odnobitnik series of 24/192 Theta Xtreme D-3, Theta Gen VIII, and my Bel Canto :-)
PCM1794 – best of odnobitnik PCM1792-PCM1798 (from a series of 24/192)
PCM1796, PCM1798 – latest odnobitniki, the quality is lower than the PCM1792

Regards, Can
My System & Theta Casablanca CBIII HD Mini-review CBIII HD - the processor for music lovers: stunning 3D soundstage and imaging, rich & full sonics, "black" background, and of course off-the-chart dynamic range!
High-End Speaker Impressions & 3D Audio Comments Give vinyl and tube preamp a try, then let a tube amp complete the fantastic audio "journey" :-).

Last edited by cannga; 08-25-2016 at 05:10 PM.
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post #10731 of 10738 Old 08-25-2016, 05:47 PM
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Thanks very much for posting that info.

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post #10732 of 10738 Old 08-25-2016, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevekale View Post
Any news on the NC500 based multichannel amp from ATI?

Also, does anyone know if the Theta Prometheus/Dreadnaught NC1200 offerings are DC coupled? It is interesting (peculiar and perhaps risky?) that the NC400 modules are DC coupled and that the NC500 LM4562-based "recommended input buffer design" is also DC coupled.
Steve:

Prometheus/Dreadnaught D and the upcoming ATI NC-500 based amps are all DC coupled. We could add an input cap to block any DC on the input signal but there is a noise penalty we prefer not to pay.

Jeff
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post #10733 of 10738 Unread 08-25-2016, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Chuckle; question is tongue in cheek? We are all ageing Les, and unfortunately not so much like a fine wine. More like "oxydizing/decaying" away . Hearing loss, visual loss (things don't look so bright anymore) - nasty stuffs for our hobby and inevitable.



The more reasons to get that Xtreme D3 and Sony 5000 asap?!



BTW I like that Logitech Ultimate Ears app you mentioned. Very handy for my last audio show.


You're welcome. Still don't know why that worked with the setup disk when my trusty rat shack meter would not. It did with the internal tone though.

Very much tongue in cheek. I try not to take myself to seriously. I link the oxidizing/decaying analogy. Closer to rot than fine wine or whiskey getting better with age.

I plan on moving on them as soon as possible. Craig is an enabler to my addiction.


Les

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post #10734 of 10738 Unread 08-26-2016, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereojeff View Post
Steve:

Prometheus/Dreadnaught D and the upcoming ATI NC-500 based amps are all DC coupled. We could add an input cap to block any DC on the input signal but there is a noise penalty we prefer not to pay.

Jeff
Thanks. Presumably they sense DC on the input as well as the output for fault protection? Or just sense the output for what would then be the amplified DC? The penalty is largely below 100Hz and if the cap is large enough (e.g. 470u) the penalty is extremely low (inaudible). (For those interested, refer to Douglas Self Small Signal Audio Design 2nd Ed. Fig 2.21 and surrounding discussion.)

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post #10735 of 10738 Unread 08-26-2016, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevekale View Post
Thanks. Presumably they sense DC on the input as well as the output for fault protection? Or just sense the output for what would then be the amplified DC? The penalty is largely below 100Hz and if the cap is large enough (e.g. 470u) the penalty is extremely low (inaudible). (For those interested, refer to Douglas Self Small Signal Audio Design 2nd Ed. Fig 2.21 and surrounding discussion.)
DC on the input will keep the amp from turning on. DC on the output is also protected.

The noise penalty is confined to our N-Core designs. There is no such penalty in our class A/B amps.

Jeff
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post #10736 of 10738 Unread 08-26-2016, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Stereojeff View Post
DC on the input will keep the amp from turning on. DC on the output is also protected.

The noise penalty is confined to our N-Core designs. There is no such penalty in our class A/B amps.

Jeff
Oh is that what happens? The amp goes into "protection" when it senses DC. I'm sure that has most likely happened to someone out there that owns those amplifiers? Maybe that someone has a tube preamplifier? I know those two combined together sound really good!

P.S. The amps have worked flawlessly since that episode, due to my inattention that day. Again, thank you Jeff.
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post #10737 of 10738 Unread 08-26-2016, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Les Auber View Post
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I plan on moving on them as soon as possible. Craig is an enabler to my addiction.
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That Xtreme D-3 is certainly extremely tempting. I thought it was just a minor re-design of D-2 but was surprised to see how it *appears* to be quite different. (Sorry for all the notations - meant for those new to Theta, not you of course.)

Interesting to note D-3 seems to have only 1 mini card per channel, versus 2 mini-cards per channel of D-2. D-3 is still a true balanced dual differential design so I imagine there is another DAC chip somewhere else on each mini card (?).



Xtreme 6-Channel D-3





My "poor" 4-Channel Xtreme D-2


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post #10738 of 10738 Unread Today, 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
Interesting to note D-3 seems to have only 1 mini card per channel, versus 2 mini-cards per channel of D-2. D-3 is still a true balanced dual differential design so I imagine there is another DAC chip somewhere else on each mini card (?).



[/URL]
Likely not another DAC chip on the card. The PCM1704 was a mono chip and the PCM1792 is stereo so you can get balanced with a single DAC chip. Personally that I think that was long overdue. I think it cut parts cost by 3/4 and still improved performance.

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