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post #1 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 02:34 AM - Thread Starter
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It's an original CB1 that was upgrade at theta around 4 years ago to CB3.
Until today I have worked at 5.1 (didn’t use the side spk)
During the last week I have added side's spk and from time to time I here a very strange sound from one of the side spk (like old vinyl record that is very scratched).
Only when I disconnect the cb3 from the outlet power cable and returns it again the problem disappear but returns after 2-3 days
Any help will be much appreciated
Thanks
Shay
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 03:45 PM
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Shay,
Can you also get this to work by just cycling power on the back panel or does it take pulling the power cable?

Are you on the latest release of firmware? I forget what the last version was but I believe it's still available. Made a difference on no sound and assorted noises on mine though it wasn't a complete fix. Still had to cycle power once and a while. If you've never reflashed the unit keep in mind it is possible to brick the thing though I never had any trouble.

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post #3 of 12 Old 07-24-2012, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spl2012 View Post

It's an original CB1 that was upgrade at theta around 4 years ago to CB3.
Until today I have worked at 5.1 (didn’t use the side spk)
During the last week I have added side's spk and from time to time I here a very strange sound from one of the side spk (like old vinyl record that is very scratched).
Only when I disconnect the cb3 from the outlet power cable and returns it again the problem disappear but returns after 2-3 days
Any help will be much appreciated
Thanks
Shay

I had that last year with my then Theta Generation VIII Series 2 DAC (now Series 3 DAC). Turned out that the volume cards had gone bazuuzo and Theta repaired it quickly at reasonable cost (out of warranty, I bought it used, it was an original Gen VIII series 1 that had been upgraded).

"Doug Winsor" used to troll at some AV Forums as "Steve Bruzonsky"! My home theater at:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1158431
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-25-2012, 08:49 AM
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John Baloff (support@ati-amp.com) is the appropriate resource for any Theta problems or questions.

Jeff
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-26-2012, 05:25 AM - Thread Starter
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The problem is solved also by cycling the power off, at the back panel. And also by turning off the side's speakers on the Theta setup, but this only solves the problem for a while.
From the picture that I have attached there are 3 Dac's card the first superior for front and center.
Next to it are the surrounds and the sub, and at the end the card that im having the problem that holds the sides speaker

Do you think I should consider maybe finding second hand better Dac's cards or this are good ones?
As to the software if it's old, can I upgrade it by myself?

Thanks
Shay
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-28-2012, 09:40 AM
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Shay,
As Jeff suggestted a note to John Baloff is your best bet. He's good.

For my part I don't know any issues with the DAC cards you have other than dated sound wise. You didn't say which Superior you had but either one is easily improved by going to an Extreme if your system will resolve it. I'd suggest getting the rest working first though so you know where you are now. It may not be worth it if only TV sound also.

Yes you can upgrade software yourself but caution is in order. You can brick the unit and have no recovery other than sending back to Theta. I dont know if they are still repairing III's other than by upgrade to III HD. The software upgrade process is straight forward but how you set the PC up to do it can make a huge difference. you also need to know what hardware you have starting out. The latest software won't work on the early CB III's.

Les
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-29-2012, 02:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Les
Thanks
The problem is that I'm not from the USA (from Israel) and therefore I'm trying to fix these issues at home, sending the pre to theta will be very expansive.
If I knew that by replacing one card or the other, or maybe by updating the software I could solve the problem that will be great.


Thanks
Shay
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-29-2012, 02:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Les
Thanks
The problem is that I'm not from the USA (from Israel) and therefore I'm trying to fix these issues at home, sending the pre to theta will be very expansive.
If I knew that by replacing one card or the other, or maybe by updating the software I could solve the problem that will be great.

Thanks
Shay
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-29-2012, 07:52 PM
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Shay,
I'd figured that. No worries, you're English is excellent. Just the differences in phrasing.

I still think the best course is an email to John Baloff. Slow but cheap. And send the s/n also.

I don't know of any issues with your cards in particular and it sort of sounds like something that used to happen to my III pre-HD upgrade that was mostly resolved by a software upgrade but it's something to be cautious of. There are two software/firmware versions for the III and it matters terribly much to get the right one. The wrong one will have you making that expensive shipment to the US. So please send something to John at the email Jeff left. He may recognize the issue from the description and guide you to a solution. I wish I could help more.

Les
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-31-2012, 10:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Les

Thanks

I will contact John Baloff, but before that I have noticed something new. When I change input the problem is solved.
Does it looks like something related to the software?
How do I check which software I have?
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post #11 of 12 Old 08-01-2012, 08:06 PM
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Sounds like software. With a III I think you need to use something like Theta Crystal or TDD. I don't think you can get the software version from the front panel.

The part you need to watch is there are two incompatible software versions for the III depending on the hardware. I believe the distinction is having CS II and the later decoding hardware. There may be others. Please check with John before proceeding. Getting it wrong gives you a large brick.

Les
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post #12 of 12 Old 08-23-2012, 01:05 PM
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You may want to swap out XLR cables. Although, if the problem appears corrected when switching inputs, it's probably not hardware related. I'd try to eliminate the hardware variables first - which you may be able to do. If that fails, and there's nothing loose on the unit itself, then you're probably talking software. John should be able to get you a file for your current setup, where you could re-install and configure the unit.

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