The Official Magnepan Owners Thread - Page 134 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3991 of 4019 Old 02-23-2015, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by kmiller15211 View Post
So, after going through just about every possible wiring and amp configuration, I tried out a new one this weekend. I figured I'd talk about it here in case it might help someone in the future. If anyone has questions about this, you can also shoot me an email at kurt@kurtmiller.net.

I just recently bought a second DWM and I previously had them split, devoting one half of each to the L or R, and the other half to the center channel. That was giving me a bit of width for the center, which I liked, and also some extra bass for the L and R. However, I didn't realize when I wired it up, that wiring the half of the DWM in parallel with my 1.6 gave me a 2 ohm load on my Parasound A21. To the amp's credit, it never complained or overheated, but it felt like I was probably not getting the best performance out of my setup.

I changed to this 5.1 setup:
* Parasound A21 driving my L and R 1.6 pair.
* Emotiva XPA-2 driving a single DWM (each output of the amp to a single input of the DWM)
* McIntosh MC122 driving my MC1 surround speakers.
* Marantz MA-700 monoblock driving the other DWM, wired to both inputs and a CC5 in series from the high output from the DWM. As strusan pointed out in this thread and other threads (I did a lot of reading this weekend ), this is approximately a 4 ohm load, so the amp is holding it together very well.

I think this is the best setup that I've experimented with yet.

Oh, and don't get me started on the Maggie delamination issues - I've been through a few loose wires, man those things are hard to find! A little DAP Weldwood cement fixed them. I don't think I've gotten all of them yet, but they sound much better.
KMiller,

Do you notice a lot of difference between the sound of an amp driving the 1.6 and the DWM, vs the sound of using a separate amp for each?

Since you use a single DWM for L and R bass reinforcement, do you have it in the middle of the room?

I have two DWMs, and I have always just wired them to the second output of my amp. I have used both an XPA100 mono block set and an XPA 1 mono block set. However I have done one or the other. I have never tried using the XPA1s for the mains and the XPA100s for the DWMs. The reason is because the Emotivas seem to drive the loads so effortlessly. The XPA 1 doesn't even get moderately warm regardless of volume. ( for the record I could get the 100s hot, especially with vinyl). I now use the 100s in a secondary room/system.

However, if you have noticed sonic benefits I will definitely try it.

I have 3.7i's and two DWMs. I set them up in a Limage type arrangement 10.5 feet from FW but aimed directly at listening position. The DWMs are 12 inches closer to me than the speakers, against the wall. Like Don, I have a Rhythmik sub for support below 40 hz.

I would love to know more about your experiences. And yes, I have gone through the relamination process on older pairs.
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post #3992 of 4019 Old 02-23-2015, 02:07 PM
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Note the DWM is only a 2-ohm'ish load if you connect both inputs in parallel. Used "normally" it presents a 4-ohm load to the amp, crossed over to the upper panels at higher frequencies. There is often a dip around the crossover point although probably more like 3 ohms.

In a 12' x 14' room, say a sitting distance of 6', 100 W should drive a pair of either Maggies to about 100 dB which should be plenty for the OP based on his "moderate" listening volume.

IMO -Don

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #3993 of 4019 Old 02-23-2015, 02:27 PM
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I found an SPL calculator that might be of interest. I cannot attest to its veracity: http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

Music area: Magnepan 3.6, McIntosh MC2205 & C48, SVS SB13-Ultra, Oppo BDP 95 and assorted equipment.
Movie area: EMP Tek R5Bi, PSA XS30, Denon X2000, Oppo BDP 83.
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post #3994 of 4019 Old 02-23-2015, 03:30 PM
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An Open note to GibsonES300.

I just tried your CC5/DWM wiring scheme and I am very happy with it. I am not wiring the DWM in parallel. I have split the Center Channel Output or my Processor and I am feeding the split outputs to separate Amplifiers, then feeding both inputs of my DWM. I will leave it like this for a few weeks then see what it sounds like when I revert to my old signal path.

Because of you I am going to purchase a Calibrated UMIK-1 and will learn REW. I hope I don't rue the day I REWed my system. Sorry couldn't resist!. I am curious as to the graphical differences you have reported and I have heard.

I plan on purchasing an XMC-1 when the "Professional upgrade (not LE version) becomes available and when the XMC supports the Mac OS. The Calibrated UMIK-1 will make a nice addition …. don't you think??

Thank You All

Magnepan 1.7's (LR)
Magnepan CC5/DWM (Center Channel)
Magnepan MC1's (Surrounds)
Rythmik F12 (Sub)
Emotiva UMC-1 (Processor)
Emotiva XPA-2 Gen2 Drives the 1.7's
Emotiva XPA-5 Drives the Center and Surrounds
Oppo BDP-103

Last edited by stustan; 02-23-2015 at 04:52 PM.
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post #3995 of 4019 Old 02-23-2015, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stustan View Post
Because of you I am going to purchase a Calibrated UMIK-1 and will learn REW.
The REW thread can help you with that. Very helpful bunch.

But isn't there a meme/rumor that says that Maggies don't measure well?
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post #3996 of 4019 Old 02-23-2015, 04:56 PM
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But isn't there a meme/rumor that says that Maggies don't measure well?
Probably …. that would be too easy and nothing is easy when it comes to Maggies!!!! I trust my ears to the best of my ability, but maybe a response curve might be enlightening.

Magnepan 1.7's (LR)
Magnepan CC5/DWM (Center Channel)
Magnepan MC1's (Surrounds)
Rythmik F12 (Sub)
Emotiva UMC-1 (Processor)
Emotiva XPA-2 Gen2 Drives the 1.7's
Emotiva XPA-5 Drives the Center and Surrounds
Oppo BDP-103
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post #3997 of 4019 Old 02-23-2015, 05:47 PM
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Any dipole speaker (conventional, ESL, or planar-magnetic) is going to have issues (comb filter effects) in most rooms due to cancellation of the front wave by the (reflected) back wave. Treating the wall behind will cure it but a lot of people prefer the sound with the extra reflected energy. My room is heavily treated so any ambience comes from the source, and frquency response and imaging is very good. YMMV.

OTOH the measured distortion of Magnepans and most other planar speakers is very low compared to most conventional speakers, at least within their power handling capability. Large LF signals are their bane...

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #3998 of 4019 Old 02-23-2015, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cardiff Kook View Post
KMiller,

Do you notice a lot of difference between the sound of an amp driving the 1.6 and the DWM, vs the sound of using a separate amp for each?

Since you use a single DWM for L and R bass reinforcement, do you have it in the middle of the room?

I have two DWMs, and I have always just wired them to the second output of my amp. I have used both an XPA100 mono block set and an XPA 1 mono block set. However I have done one or the other. I have never tried using the XPA1s for the mains and the XPA100s for the DWMs. The reason is because the Emotivas seem to drive the loads so effortlessly. The XPA 1 doesn't even get moderately warm regardless of volume. ( for the record I could get the 100s hot, especially with vinyl). I now use the 100s in a secondary room/system.

However, if you have noticed sonic benefits I will definitely try it.

I have 3.7i's and two DWMs. I set them up in a Limage type arrangement 10.5 feet from FW but aimed directly at listening position. The DWMs are 12 inches closer to me than the speakers, against the wall. Like Don, I have a Rhythmik sub for support below 40 hz.

I would love to know more about your experiences. And yes, I have gone through the relamination process on older pairs.
The DWM does seem to sound a lot better with a dedicated amp, and maybe some of that is freeing up my Parasound to power only my 1.6s. I have a bit of an unbalanced layout - I have my center DWM right in front of my center CC5, with the CC5 on top of a little dresser-like thing. I then have my L/R DWM in between my center and my left channel. That's the unbalanced part. It doesn't sound bad, though.

I would wire it up and give it a shot.

Last edited by kmiller15211; 02-24-2015 at 06:17 AM.
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post #3999 of 4019 Old 02-24-2015, 09:19 AM
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It is actually kind of amazing that I haven't tried it before considering all the experimentation I do. I am going to carry my 100s back down the stairs. Thanks for the suggestion.
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post #4000 of 4019 Old 02-24-2015, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stustan View Post
An Open note to GibsonES300.

I just tried your CC5/DWM wiring scheme and I am very happy with it. I am not wiring the DWM in parallel. I have split the Center Channel Output or my Processor and I am feeding the split outputs to separate Amplifiers, then feeding both inputs of my DWM. I will leave it like this for a few weeks then see what it sounds like when I revert to my old signal path.

Because of you I am going to purchase a Calibrated UMIK-1 and will learn REW. I hope I don't rue the day I REWed my system. Sorry couldn't resist!. I am curious as to the graphical differences you have reported and I have heard.

I plan on purchasing an XMC-1 when the "Professional upgrade (not LE version) becomes available and when the XMC supports the Mac OS. The Calibrated UMIK-1 will make a nice addition …. don't you think??

Thank You All
Glad to hear you like it. REW is fun, not just for measuring frequency response, but for all the other parameters you can measure (modal decay times, ETC, phase characteristics, etc). On one hand, you'll be thrilled at the power at your fingertips and how quickly you can make and evaluate changes in your system. On the other hand, you might wish you would have done it sooner when you realize how hard it really is to use those instruments on the sides of your head for making meaningful measurements. It was certainly eye and ear opening for me. For starters, I learned a tremendous amount following the guide on the REW website and the REW threads on AVS.

If I remember correctly, the DWM measured around 10 dB lower than the CC5. Wiring it in parallel brought the levels between the DWM and CC5 more in line. And, as I mentioned before, if the center channel is crossed over around 60-80 Hz, the load on the amplifier won't be too difficult. My Emotiva XPA-5 has had no trouble whatsoever with it. But I can see how your wiring would work fine, as well. Cheers

Magnepan 1.7 | Magnepan CC5 center, DWM woofer | Rythmik F15HP | Magnepan MC1 Sides | Magnepan MMG Rears | NAD T 757 | Emotiva UPA-1 mono's | Emotiva XPA-5 | Sony HW40es | Silver Ticket 120"
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post #4001 of 4019 Old 02-25-2015, 09:18 AM
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Anyone have any recommendations for amps for the CC5/DWM combo? My current little Marantz MA-700 300 WPC @ 4 amp is doing OK, but I think it could be improved. XPA-1 or XPA-1L? I'm leaning towards the bigger XPA-1 just in case I ever wanted to grab another one and run monoblocks for my L and R. I'm not sure how well my Parasound A21 400WPC @ 4 would do if I upgraded to, say, 3.7s. I think the dual 1K watt @ 4 monoblocks would be a lot better.
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post #4002 of 4019 Old 02-25-2015, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by kmiller15211 View Post
Anyone have any recommendations for amps for the CC5/DWM combo? My current little Marantz MA-700 300 WPC @ 4 amp is doing OK, but I think it could be improved. XPA-1 or XPA-1L? I'm leaning towards the bigger XPA-1 just in case I ever wanted to grab another one and run monoblocks for my L and R. I'm not sure how well my Parasound A21 400WPC @ 4 would do if I upgraded to, say, 3.7s. I think the dual 1K watt @ 4 monoblocks would be a lot better.
I am using the XPA-1L with my CC5/DMW combo and I have the two DMW coils run in parallel with the CC5 run off of one of the high-pass outputs. I was worried that the load would be to much, but, it works fine, even in class A mode. As for the A21 handling the MG-3.7s, no problems at all. With the 3.7s crossed over to subs @ 50 Hz I have seen peaks of 110-115db in my 3500 cubic foot room, mind you, not intentionally, couldn't turn it down fast enough, whoa, way too loud. huh, you will have to speak louder, can't hear you.
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post #4003 of 4019 Old 03-08-2015, 08:12 AM
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Preferred crossover setting for sub via receiver control

What do you set your “small” speaker receiver/amp controlled subwoofer crossover Hz at for MMGs?
40, 60, 90, or 100
80 and 100 are common recommendations for any speaker but, this isn’t any speaker.
If one sets the crossover to 120 or higher, does this relieve the main receiver/amp of a significant enough load that it helps with efficiency or; it has little impact or; takes away too much from the MMGs, affecting quality?
I know the best way to determine is to try various settings over time. But I am curious if there is a predominant crossover preference with MMG users.
The general consensus is to set a powered sub to bypass mode (let receiver control the crossover) and set sub volume to 11 O’Clock.
Does anyone do that differently?
I have a little powered sub and it seems like 100 Hz setting is best for my room.
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post #4004 of 4019 Old 03-08-2015, 05:09 PM
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If 100 Hz works for you don;t worry about what anybody else is doing.

I like to get above the -3 dB point a bit, at least half an octave if not a full octave. I cross over my bigger MG-IIIa's (35 Hz low end corner) at around 50 or 60 Hz (can't recall off-hand). The MMG's are rated to 50 Hz so I would start around 80 ~ 100 Hz and choose what sounded and measured best.

A big factor in any speaker, but IME more so with planar speakers ((dynamic or ESL) due to their limited excursion, is the distortion at lower frequencies. LF's take a lot of power to match the relative loudness of midrange frequencies, and a lot of folk would probably be shocked to know just how high the distortion of their speakers is at 50 Hz... But, a sub is designed for LF response and might not do well driven at frequencies well above the sub band. I have not looked at a lot of them, but from what I have seen they mostly seem to top out someplace between 150 Hz and 200 Hz.

I think your method of letting the AVR control the is sound (pardon the pun). That allows the AVR to apply a steep crossover and adjust the delay/phase response to provide a smooth response through the crossover region. A volume setting in the middle is usually fine; it's a trade between noise and distortion in both the sub and AVR.

All IME/IMO; HTH - Don

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #4005 of 4019 Old 03-13-2015, 10:14 AM
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Is there a Magnepan to banana dongle adaptor…

What is the fastest way to connect and disconnect speaker wire from MMGs?
After decades, I've had it with the Allen wrench idiocy. Convenience is more important at my age then whatever minuscule gain in sound the old way achieved. Plus my knees and other disabilities.
I do not want to alter the connectors on back it came with. Hopefully, I’ll just buy a thing (not overpriced audiophile connectors for the rich but not basic either) and stick something there which takes a common connector - like a banana plug. No tiny wrench needed.
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post #4006 of 4019 Old 03-13-2015, 11:24 AM
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Locking banana plugs is the easiest way, assuming you find ones that can handle your wire. I use a set of gold-plated locking plugs I purchased from Radio Shack many years ago and they have continued to perform well through three sets of Maggies: 1.0b, MMG and 1.6QR.

Be seeing you!
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post #4007 of 4019 Old 03-13-2015, 12:09 PM
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I use Pomona 1825 series banana plugs on my S-MMG/DWMs. They have a very snug fit with the socket Magnepan uses.

Digikey link:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1445-ND/736239

Life is Lambertian
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post #4008 of 4019 Old 03-14-2015, 02:04 PM
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Out of curiosity I bought a pair of 5 foot leafy artificial trees yesterday. I paid a total of $100 for them. I placed them behind my 1.7's wondering how the diffusion they afford would effect the overall presentation. The results, as judged by my family and I, were a huge improvement. Yet no one could describe the improvement!! It was very noticeable in stereo music and 5.1 theatrical playback.

My best attempt to describe would be: A sharper "picture" of each individual instrument/sound image. The entire soundstage and those individual images are better defined with less muddiness/murkiness .... clearly etched images with silence between those images.

An overall stability in the soundstage, a much, much larger sweet spot that is no longer affected by head movement, side to side or forward and back.

As a result of the above "The Theater" has been renamed "The Rain Forest"

Was I a victim of "comb filtering"???

Magnepan 1.7's (LR)
Magnepan CC5/DWM (Center Channel)
Magnepan MC1's (Surrounds)
Rythmik F12 (Sub)
Emotiva UMC-1 (Processor)
Emotiva XPA-2 Gen2 Drives the 1.7's
Emotiva XPA-5 Drives the Center and Surrounds
Oppo BDP-103

Last edited by stustan; 03-14-2015 at 04:06 PM.
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post #4009 of 4019 Old 03-14-2015, 02:44 PM
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Yes.

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #4010 of 4019 Old 03-14-2015, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stustan View Post
Out of curiosity I bought a pair of 5 foot leafy artificial trees yesterday. I paid a total of $100 for them. I placed them behind my 1.7's wondering how the diffusion they afford would effect the overall presentation. The results, as judged by my family and I, were a huge improvement. No one could describe the improvement!! It was very noticeable in stereo music and 5.1 theatrical playback.

My best attempt to describe would be: A sharper "picture" of each individual instrument/sound image. The entire soundstage and those individual images are better defined with less muddiness/murkiness .... clearly etched images with silence between those images.

An overall stability in the soundstage, a much, much larger sweet spot that is no longer affected by head movement, side to side or forward and back.

As a result of the above "The Theater" has be renamed "The Rain Forest"

Was I a victim of "comb filtering"???

$100, a lot cheaper than RPG Diffusors!
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post #4011 of 4019 Old 03-14-2015, 04:08 PM
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Yes.
Don your response was short, sweet, concise and I laughed my ass off!!!
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Magnepan 1.7's (LR)
Magnepan CC5/DWM (Center Channel)
Magnepan MC1's (Surrounds)
Rythmik F12 (Sub)
Emotiva UMC-1 (Processor)
Emotiva XPA-2 Gen2 Drives the 1.7's
Emotiva XPA-5 Drives the Center and Surrounds
Oppo BDP-103
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post #4012 of 4019 Old 03-14-2015, 04:10 PM
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Don your response was short, sweet, concise and I laughed my ass off!!!
Me too!
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post #4013 of 4019 Old 03-14-2015, 08:32 PM
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Thanks guys. I am still working today, up to about 84 hours this week, been an ugly one.

I gave up trying to convince people of the merits of placing diffusion or absorption behind their speakers but IME (and in my system, and in my math) what you describe is exactly what happens. It also results in a much more correct/stable image. It is true you lose some of the "spaciousness" from the room but the benefits are great. I prefer my room not alter the response from the source.

A lot of people would be shocked if they saw how much processing is done before the CD (or whatever) ends up in their hands. Many years ago, speaking with a friend in the studio, he was laughing at a review describing how you could hear the room and spaciousness of the hall in the recording. A recording done in a studio so dead flies couldn't buzz.
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"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #4014 of 4019 Old 03-14-2015, 10:16 PM
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Thanks guys. I am still working today, up to about 84 hours this week, been an ugly one.

I gave up trying to convince people of the merits of placing diffusion or absorption behind their speakers but IME (and in my system, and in my math) what you describe is exactly what happens. It also results in a much more correct/stable image. It is true you lose some of the "spaciousness" from the room but the benefits are great. I prefer my room not alter the response from the source.

A lot of people would be shocked if they saw how much processing is done before the CD (or whatever) ends up in their hands. Many years ago, speaking with a friend in the studio, he was laughing at a review describing how you could hear the room and spaciousness of the hall in the recording. A recording done in a studio so dead flies couldn't buzz.
I've been recorded myself many times, and it's absolutely amazing how the same snare drum, with the same heads and tuning, played with the same sticks by the same player, can end up sounding so different depending on the engineer. The choice of microphone(s) and it's(their) positioning, the EQ, compression, gating, reverb, etc. added, the room itself, even the mastering engineer who prepares the tape (or files) for the LP or CD production, all effect the sound of an instrument on a recording. One thing that gave J. Gordon Holt (the founder, owner, and for many years sole reviewer of Stereophile) credibility in my mind, was that he made his own recordings. He attempted to get a recorded sound as close to the live sound he heard at the recording site as he could, and judged the ability of playback gear to make those recordings sound as he knew they should. It's folly to use commercial recordings to do the same, as you can have no idea what a recording actually contains. One can "like" the sound of a recording more through one, say, speaker than through another, but as to which is more "accurate"? Assuming, of course, accuracy is what one is attempting to achieve. I remember being asked by a guy at an audiophile gathering what my system was. Upon hearing Audio Research driving Magneplanars (my system at the time), he remarked, "Oh, you're after natural sound". I was stunned---I thought that's what everyone was after!

Last edited by BDP24; 03-15-2015 at 10:02 AM.
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post #4015 of 4019 Old 03-15-2015, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by DonH50 View Post
A lot of people would be shocked if they saw how much processing is done before the CD (or whatever) ends up in their hands. Many years ago, speaking with a friend in the studio, he was laughing at a review describing how you could hear the room and spaciousness of the hall in the recording. A recording done in a studio so dead flies couldn't buzz.
I agree. Not only dead but often over-processed, over-manipulated, over-compressed and even over-distorted.

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post #4016 of 4019 Old 03-25-2015, 09:02 AM
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I agree. Not only dead but often over-processed, over-manipulated, over-compressed and even over-distorted.
On another topic, I'm curious if anyone has compared the Maggie 1.7's with Eminent Technologies LFT8b's and what they thought?
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post #4017 of 4019 Old 03-25-2015, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jcgriff View Post
On another topic, I'm curious if anyone has compared the Maggie 1.7's with Eminent Technologies LFT-8b's and what they thought?
A great question, one I'm surprised more magnetic-planar enthusiasts don't ask themselves. I feel it to be THE question anyone contemplating the purchase of a pair of panel speakers should be asking himself before any other. ET has a much lower profile than Magnepan, with fewer dealers and even fewer reviews (since ET doesn't introduce new or "improved" models very often, that's understandable. Who's going to review a 10 year old speaker?! Well, surprisingly, the LFT-8b HAS gotten a few new reviews lately, and they were raves). ET's Bruce Thigpen is generous with his praise for Jim Winey and the Magneplanar design, but had his own design ideas for a magnetic-planar loudspeaker (amongst others. Have you read about the ET Infra-Woofer? The man's a genius!).


I bought a pair of Tympani 1-U's after hearing them in 1972, a pair of 1D's later, and now have Tympani IV's. But not having the room necessary for them in my current abode, and unwilling to listen to music that's squirted out of a box ;-), I went and listened to the 1.7's, and then the LFT-8b's. They were not in the same room, hooked up to the same system (Hell, they weren't even in the same State!), so there's that variability. But I'm pretty familiar with the "Maggie sound", and the ET's were in a system I'm familiar with. I bought the ET's. They sound surprisingly different than Maggies, in as much as the two have so much in common. It may have to do with the fact that the ET has a single (well, two of them) magnetic-planar driver (push-pull, as opposed to the Maggie's single-ended) covering 180Hz to 10kHz, with NO CROSSOVER! Talk about seamless---as a pianist's hands descend down the keyboard from the upper keys to the lower, or as a singer's voice follows the melody from high notes to low, there is NO change in timbre. None! If that's important to you (it's one of my very highest priorities in accessing the quality of Hi-Fi EQ, if not the highest. Most speakers fail this basic test miserably!), you should share my amazement that the LFT-8b's aren't more widely considered the biggest bargain in loudspeakers today. Sure they have their faults---what speaker doesn't? I wish they had the see-through liquid transparency of my old Quads (how many speakers do?!), but then there are qualities the ET's have I wish my Quads had. I consider the LFT-8b's far superior, in ways important to me, to speakers costing many times their ridiculously low price ($2499, but get the Sound Anchor stands for them, $230 from The Cable Company). Go hear them! The 1.7's, in comparison, sounded kind of "whispy", like they were out of phase (they weren't). Not as much meat on their bones, ya know? As for me, the ET's will do just fine until I get a room big enough to use the bass panels of the T-IV's as woofers for the LFT-8b's! Maggie user DonH50 prefers his IIIA's to the LFT-8's (the original 8, not the 8b with it's improved tweeter and crossover---1st order at 180Hz and 10kHz), citing the quality of highs through the IIIA's ribbon tweeter. Ya can't have it all, even if you spend $200,000!
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Has anyone out there tried the Magnepan .7s with a DWM?

I am in the process of upgrading my speakers, and deciding between .7s with DWM vs 1.7s. The smaller size of the .7 would fit better, and if the DWM can offload some of the lower frequencies I am wondering if this is a winner.

Add to that the option of the Rhythmik F8 sub, that itself can offload some higher frequencies.

The 1.7 is usually recommended due to its larger panel area, and the fact that it is a three-way. I'm not sure if the combination of .7/DWM gains this same full configuration, or is a compromise.

Thanks and this 130+ pages has been great reading!
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If space is the issue I would personally skip the DWM, get the .7's, and a Rythmik F8 or F12 or two. The DWM is a neat thang but takes more room and the sub(s) will cover the bass (woofer range) better IMO. If I had a larger room I would get a bigger pair of Maggies instead of a smaller pair and DWMs but that's just me. Or maybe a bigger pair and a pair of DWMs...

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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