Originally Posted by jhstl
I recently picked up the following setup for my living room, which is about 12x16x8 and has an archway opening to a 12x14x8 dining room.
Pioneer Elite SC-07 receiver
DT Mythos STS towers for the front
DT CLR2300 center channel
DT Mythos Gems for the rear
I do not have them wired using the LFE input, just using speaker wires.
What should I have the knobs dialed in on the towers and center? I don't have a sub right now, but I'm considering adding something to cover the really low frequencies that the STS's cannot do. It seems like the radio shack db meter wants me to put them at around 11 oclock, but 1 oclock seems much better sounding to me. 1 oclock would put them at about 5-6db hot, according to my meter (although, I'm not sure what frequency the Elite SC-07 uses as a test tone for the SW output, so I could be off a couple dbs since it's not the corrected amount). Is this safe to run on the STS's?
If I add a sub, what could I get for less than $800 but with a piano black finish? I was looking at a MFW-15, SVS pb12-nsd, anything else? How much am I actually missing by not being able to re-produce the really low hz? I'd imagine I would set the crossover really low on any sub I would add, like 40hz, and have the STS cover the rest, would that make sense?
Any help appreciated
1) I'd set the amps to be "flat" in your room (i.e. 11:00 in your case). If you want to boost the lows, I'd run an LFE connection and tweak the subwoofer output in your 07. It's easier to go back to a flat response if you do it that way. I'd recommend limiting the boost to 2 or 3dB though (which your RS SPL meter pretty much does on it's own).
The SC-07's MCACC will set your system correctly (i.e. flat), and, if anything, is more accurate than your SPL meter. I like to use it while I adjust the STS amp until MCACC reports the 63Hz band adjustment to be 0 or -1. If you use All Channel Adjust for this, you can then account for the differences in placement between the two speakers.
I'd suggest you give the flat response a fair try for a few days. If you are used to a boosted bass response, it may sound flat at first, but when your ears become accustomed to it, they will start to hear nuances throughout the audio spectrum that boosted lows tend to bury. It's those subtleties that make your STS's (and SC-07) so special.
In the end, though, use what sounds best to you. You won't hurt the equipment (within reason), and it's your system.
2) I'm partial to the PB12-NSD myself, but both are good sub choices in your price range, as would be models from Hsu or eD among others, although I don't think any of these match your Piano Black requirement.
A separate sub is always beneficial to an HT system. Would you miss anything without one? Maybe not... until you heard the system with one. The STS's can produce more than adequate bass, but the widow rattling, infrasonic stuff in some movies can't be reproduced without more help. While perhaps 95% of the bass you'll encounter is within the STS's capability, you won't be sorry if you add a free standing sub.
I prefer to run my STS's full range ("Large") and send the lows from the other channels together with the LFE to my subs. The best way to integrate the sub is to bypass the sub's crossover and have the AVR handle the crossover. In most cases, the best setting is 80Hz.
Trimming the sub's crossover as you propose would eliminate LFE above the crossover (40Hz or whatever you chose). LFE is not transferred to the mains when a sub is attached, so the part you eliminate would be lost altogether.