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post #30601 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
That would be awesome. How does this work?
You could use DSP sevice with extra inputs that allows you to hook up the the subwoofer outputs from your receiver and then route the signal to your Noesis 215RTs. Or you could use a high quality mixer to integrate your subwoofer signal. Or just use a few stereo to mono converters. You'll need one per speaker. For the left speaker, hook up the left output from your receiver to the left input of the convert, sub out to the right input. For the right speaker, hook up the right output from your receiver to the right input of the convert, the other sub out to the left input.
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post #30602 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
Are you going with the same size? 20+ cu ft per speaker?
I'm going to mimic the build exactly Lets see, how much room will I need behind AT screen wall lol! Another reason to do only one row of seating. I told my wife last night there would never be a reason to upgrade LCR again. She gave me the look! I told her, "no you don't understand!!!"
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post #30603 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
You could use DSP sevice with extra inputs that allows you to hook up the the subwoofer outputs from your receiver and then route the signal to your Noesis 215RTs. Or you could use a high quality mixer to integrate your subwoofer signal. Or just use a few stereo to mono converters. You'll need one per speaker. For the left speaker, hook up the left output from your receiver to the left input of the convert, sub out to the right input. For the right speaker, hook up the right output from your receiver to the right input of the convert, the other sub out to the left input.
Is the stereo to mono converter option the cheapest? How much would that cost?
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post #30604 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by carp View Post
Is the stereo to mono converter option the cheapest? How much would that cost?

With something like a 88A, it's just a matter of runing the cables and checking a box in the menu.


The stereo to mono adapters are the least expensive.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...6x%3D0%26y%3D0
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post #30605 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
Is the stereo to mono converter option the cheapest? How much would that cost?
Ebay had a couple of the Rane RPM88's for $375 (not bad for a $3K unit). This V oft posted diagram shows how it works. The interface is very powerful and easy to use and has this cool GUI. The downside is they are discontinued and you have to run the (excellent) Dragnet software on a windows machine in XP mode.

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post #30606 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
Has anyone feed (externally, not via reciever internally) the lfe channels to their Noesis 215RT yet? The nice thing about this is that you can adjust the bass level by turning up the subwoofer level in the receiver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
You could use DSP sevice with extra inputs that allows you to hook up the the subwoofer outputs from your receiver and then route the signal to your Noesis 215RTs. Or you could use a high quality mixer to integrate your subwoofer signal. Or just use a few stereo to mono converters. You'll need one per speaker. For the left speaker, hook up the left output from your receiver to the left input of the convert, sub out to the right input. For the right speaker, hook up the right output from your receiver to the right input of the convert, the other sub out to the left input.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
With something like a 88A, it's just a matter of runing the cables and checking a box in the menu.


The stereo to mono adapters are the least expensive.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...6x%3D0%26y%3D0
Are you saying use the speaker pre outs to the converter then the out to the sub inputs? What if you are using pre outs for an amp? Ideally I would like to ditch the inuke and use my XPA-3 for the front 3 speakers and this little converter would be the way to go.

I would have already bought the dirac 88A, but it came to my attention that you need at least a 5 channel amp. Considering I am using an AVR boosting the mains with a two channel amp, so not going to work. Would any other mini dsp unit work like the nano avr?
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post #30607 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Reefdvr27 View Post
Are you saying use the speaker pre outs to the converter then the out to the sub inputs? What if you are using pre outs for an amp? Ideally I would like to ditch the inuke and use my XPA-3 for the front 3 speakers and this little converter would be the way to go.
I attached a schematic:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefdvr27 View Post
I would have already bought the dirac 88A, but it came to my attention that you need at least a 5 channel amp. Considering I am using an AVR boosting the mains with a two channel amp, so not going to work. Would any other mini dsp unit work like the nano avr?

The 88A should work great and allow you to send the sub signals to your Noesis.
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post #30608 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 10:38 AM
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@carp you need to try that ^^^^^ I want to be there when you do.
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post #30609 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
I attached a schematic:





The 88A should work great and allow you to send the sub signals to your Noesis.
Simple enough, Thanks Jeff! I am going to finally hook up my XPA3 as my new center channel is in desperate need of some extra power.
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post #30610 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
I attached a schematic:


So it will work without the 88A by just getting 2 of these


http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...6x%3D0%26y%3D0


and putting them in between the avr and the amp?
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post #30611 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post
BTW, I watched Oblivion again last night after running an 8 position Audyssey (for about the 100th time ) and I left all of the settings in Audyssey (except Dynamic EQ and that night mode thing) while watching the film.
Rob...question for you and for others....


When you run a calibration do you (typically) go in and adjust the level settings (trim) for each speakers to ensure it's registering at 75db? Or does it come out of an Audyssey calibration right at the 75db mark? I know you had mentioned before that your system is calibrated to 75db at the MLP, so I'm wondering if there's any manual intervention in achieving that.


Thanks

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post #30612 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nabs17 View Post
Rob...question for you and for others....


When you run a calibration do you (typically) go in and adjust the level settings (trim) for each speakers to ensure it's registering at 75db? Or does it come out of an Audyssey calibration right at the 75db mark? I know you had mentioned before that your system is calibrated to 75db at the MLP, so I'm wondering if there's any manual intervention in achieving that.


Thanks
Doing any trim work before audyssey will be defeated once you run it. Most around here run audyssey and then use an Spl meter to adjust to 75dB all around AFTER audyssey has run its course.

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post #30613 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nabs17 View Post
Rob...question for you and for others....


When you run a calibration do you (typically) go in and adjust the level settings (trim) for each speakers to ensure it's registering at 75db? Or does it come out of an Audyssey calibration right at the 75db mark? I know you had mentioned before that your system is calibrated to 75db at the MLP, so I'm wondering if there's any manual intervention in achieving that.


Thanks
I have never had Audy set speakers to 75db. They are all over the board. But yeah After Audy has run and you finalize, you can go in and manual tweak. I only run 1 position of audyseey at the MLP to get distance, and then I stop and manually set everything!
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post #30614 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
So it will work without the 88A by just getting 2 of these


http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...6x%3D0%26y%3D0


and putting them in between the avr and the amp?
I am assuming from the schematic that combined mean a Y adapter to the amp? I think I am all over this! I am going to hold off on the subs till I give this a try!
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post #30615 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
Doing any trim work before audyssey will be defeated once you run it. Most around here run audyssey and then use an Spl meter to adjust to 75dB all around AFTER audyssey has run its course.
Sorry, I wasn't clear but I did mean after Audyssey or whatever flavor of RC folks use. So that answers the question that you all do indeed go in and adjust trims after RC to get 75db. Because I checked last night after my latest run of YPAO...and I wasn't at 75db for any of my channels, so that's what lead to the question.

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post #30616 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefdvr27 View Post
I am assuming from the schematic that combined mean a Y adapter to the amp? I think I am all over this! I am going to hold off on the subs till I give this a try!

No "Y" adapted needed. I meant the the signal in that RCA is a combination of the mains and subs.
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post #30617 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 02:21 PM
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Another JTR stage is born!
A Jeff order a few weeks away...still

Vince
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post #30618 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
No "Y" adapted needed. I meant the the signal in that RCA is a combination of the mains and subs.
Gotcha! Thanks for verifying that.
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post #30619 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 03:03 PM
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Another JTR stage is born!
A Jeff order a few weeks away...still

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Looking good Vince.

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post #30620 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nabs17 View Post
Rob...question for you and for others....


When you run a calibration do you (typically) go in and adjust the level settings (trim) for each speakers to ensure it's registering at 75db? Or does it come out of an Audyssey calibration right at the 75db mark? I know you had mentioned before that your system is calibrated to 75db at the MLP, so I'm wondering if there's any manual intervention in achieving that.


Thanks
Audyssey can't get my LCR speakers down to 75 db even with the max cuts (-12db) and the only option I have is to use 10db attenuators. I don't want attenuators in the signal chain so I set the speaker levels at 80 or 85 db after Audyssey. Then, reference level on my SSP is either -5 or -10 MV.

Make sense?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post
Audyssey can't get my LCR speakers down to 75 db even with the max cuts (-12db) and the only option I have is to use 10db attenuators. I don't want attenuators in the signal chain so I set the speaker levels at 80 or 85 db after Audyssey. Then, reference level on my SSP is either -5 or -10 MV.

Make sense?
Makes perfect sense because I can't get down to 75db either unless I turn the gains on the Crowns way down.


Thanks,

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post #30622 of 31063 Old 08-05-2015, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
I attached a schematic:





The 88A should work great and allow you to send the sub signals to your Noesis.
Looks like a good simple solution but what about 3 215's and 2 sub outs?

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post #30623 of 31063 Old 08-07-2015, 01:04 AM
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As I anticipated last week, two of my three 228HTRs arrived yesterday. External box appearance would indicate no gouging, piercing, or crushing trauma, so... I'm leaving them in the box till next week when my son arrives, and we set about re-fitting the theater. I wanna open 'em so bad, but I'll wait, so both of us can experience that Christmas in August feeling. Jeff said that a replacement compression driver was in stock, stateside, so we're just waiting on that, and then the 3rd one will be on its way. If I had had my wits about me, I would have asked Jeff to have them overnight that driver to him, and I would have paid the shipping. Oh, well, opportunity missed. Now, I may end up expediting a much heavier package!

The 8 Volt-6s (surrounds, back surrounds, Atmos) are almost all finished, and the HST-12 driver retrofit of my 12" Titanic subwoofers, is halfway there (the other two HST-12 drivers will probably ship tomorrow... hope you're reading this Nick!)

The new (to me) QSC CX168 (8 channels for surrounds+Atmos - 90W/channel@8ohms) is here, its quiet fan is installed, it's checked out, and all its special little connectors have been received. The new (to me) QSC PLX1602 (to run bridged for the 228HTR Center channel - ~1600W@4ohms) is here, its quiet fan is installed, and it's all checked out.

I will be feeding the L+R 228HTRs one stereo channel each from one of the existing PLX3402s (~1100W@4ohms per speaker). So, I will go from bridged PLX3402s for each of the LCRs to a single PLX3402 for L+R, and a single PLX1602 for C. Are these adequate wattages for the 228HTRs? (4ohms, 98dB sensitivity, 2m from MLP, 70hz-24khz, rated at 1200W RMS)

By the way, given my overall setup (see the subwoofer portion below) do I specify the 228HTRs as Small or Large to the Marantz 8802A? I'll be crossing over the bass management at 80hz.

That amp shuffling frees up 2 PLX3402s and 2 Crown D75s (that I have been using for surround duty). I will, almost surely, sell the Crowns (although, having said that, they don't take up too much space, and it is handy to have a test amp just sitting around when you need one). I may sell one, or both, of the excess PLX3402s, depending on what I do for my final subwoofer array (see below).

Phil Marchand has my order for a stereo BASSIS (to replace my mono version). Also, I asked Phil to modify the High-Pass filter on the new unit to 15hz, instead of 20hz. I don't know if I will end up using that filter, but, if I do, 15hz just seems a better choice for Home Theater than 20hz. They were out of the faceplates for that box, unfortunately, and had to reorder... so, I don't know when I will receive the finished product. However, when I swap out the other two HST-12s, I will be back to 4 identical subwoofers, so the mono BASSIS will still serve for this interim period.

On the subwoofer topic, it is still my intent to create One... More... Subwoofer. ("One sub to rule them all, one sub to rumble. One sub to shake the hall, and make the ceiling crumble"). In fact, I already ordered, and have received, the driver for that project (and it's a big'un... but I'm holding back that info to surprise the bassheads with my choice). So my son and I may be able to start working on the enclosure (12-15cf) for that driver while he is here... He's going to be one busy little bee.

So... thoughts? I know some of that is not JTR-thread relevant, but this all has to be considered together.

Thanks, as always, to the forum members who continually make available their experience and advice.

- s.west

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post #30624 of 31063 Old 08-07-2015, 01:26 AM
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Regarding The German Guy, you said:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefdvr27 View Post
I have his info if you want it!
What 'info' would that be? You could PM me if that would be better...

Thanks.

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post #30625 of 31063 Old 08-07-2015, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
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Regarding The German Guy, you said:



What 'info' would that be? You could PM me if that would be better...

Thanks.

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This was the last email that we communicated on.

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Jeff is at it again....he did say 2015 was a year of big changes


http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/captivator-218ht/


I like what I'm reading....2 18's.
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post #30627 of 31063 Old 08-07-2015, 11:59 AM
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What is the model number on the compression driver Jeff posted pics of in his "2015 big year of changes." In the JTR forum?

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post #30628 of 31063 Old 08-07-2015, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
What is the model number on the compression driver Jeff posted pics of in his "2015 big year of changes." In the JTR forum?
I don't think Jeff is using BMS anymore except for the S8 series (4550). The HT models for sure not. The HTR version coaxial CD with that unique looking phase plug does not appear to be BMS either but I'm not positive. The previous coaxial CD was the BMS 4593ND

Chris

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post #30629 of 31063 Old 08-07-2015, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nabs17 View Post
Jeff is at it again....he did say 2015 was a year of big changes


http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/captivator-218ht/


I like what I'm reading....2 18's.

The pricing has Christmas present written all over it. Im immensely intrigued. Jeff whens the pre-order?.....Im in
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post #30630 of 31063 Old 08-07-2015, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by countryWV View Post
I don't think Jeff is using BMS anymore except for the S8 series (4550). The HT models for sure not. The HTR version coaxial CD with that unique looking wave guide does not appear to be BMS either but I'm not positive.
That would be a phase plug and I am pretty sure they are still BMS, just a custom one that Jeff is using with that small modification.
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