Official JTR speaker thread - Page 1213 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #36361 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
Speaking of powering off AMPs... I didn't plan it right when I did my HT when it came to sockets... so, my Orbit Shifter is now behind the screen and I hate to go behind each time to turn it off or on.. so, I am using the Breaker Switch at the Breaker panel... basically each of my 20A socket is connected to it's own breaker... i can just turn that breaker on or off at the board.. is this bad for the amp?
Should be no different than Nates light switch solution. Leaving the amp switched on and cutting the power would not harm a well designed amp as long as you don't have power surges and a surge protector should take care of that.

I should do one of these methods as switching on my amps each time is a PITA and I like the price of Ray's elan zpower power unit. Does it have a 12V trigger? and should I be concerned about the 15amp limitation with all of my amps on 20amp circuits?

Never mind, I read the manual online and ordered one just now. Thanks for the tip on that unit Ray

Last edited by RMK!; 12-22-2016 at 07:23 AM.
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post #36362 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 07:08 AM
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Would that be any different than turning off the breaker connected to the amp? I experienced the loud thump when I used the breaker.

The sequential power options would not work well in my case since I have 5 separate circuits for the amps which means I need to use 5.


Quote:
Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
My amps are in a different room and to turn them on and off, I use 20a light switches . They are just on the wall near my IB. Works perfect.

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Speakers: 3 JTR 212HTR (LCR), 2 Jtr Single 8LP (S), 2 JTR Triple 12LF (SB)) , 4 Volt 10LX (Atmos)
Subwoofers: 10 Sealed UXL-18, 5 Crowson Shadow 8 transducers, 3 Buttkicker LFE
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post #36363 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdome View Post
I just installed a Juice Goose IP-1520 in a theater. It provides surge protection for the entire rack and has sequenced power on/off. It has its own built in web server so you can control/access from anywhere in the world. The theater owner uses his tablet in the theater to sequence up his entire rack. They also make a 15 amp version.



The non-IP stuff is called the CQ Series which let one mount a remote switch. The switch connects to the power sequencer with a single Cat5 cable. I'm a Juice Goose dealer.

Even on the 20a version of that, you still wouldn't want to be running something like an a14-k through there I would imagine?

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post #36364 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
Even on the 20a version of that, you still wouldn't want to be running something like an a14-k through there I would imagine?
I've got a 3 channel D-Sonic running the LCR's. I'm going to use the 12V trigger on my Marantz (7702) to power up the D-Sonic which is connected to a dedicate 20 amp circuit. I'm thinking of powering the Marantz from the current sensing outlet on the Elan Z. I have 3 Inukes that power the 8 surround and ceiling speakers and these will be connected to the switched outlets on the Elan Z. My Harmony RF will power on the Marantz, it will trigger the D-sonic and the Elan should power on the connected Inukes.

Make sense?

BTW, after much back and forth I'm keeping the D-Sonic and will be selling a couple of Inukes (6000DSP and 3000DSP). If anyone is interested PM me.

Last edited by RMK!; 12-22-2016 at 09:55 AM.
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post #36365 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
Speaking of powering off AMPs... I didn't plan it right when I did my HT when it came to sockets... so, my Orbit Shifter is now behind the screen and I hate to go behind each time to turn it off or on.. so, I am using the Breaker Switch at the Breaker panel... basically each of my 20A socket is connected to it's own breaker... i can just turn that breaker on or off at the board.. is this bad for the amp?
Not bad for the amp. It's the same as flipping the breaker, just easier if you can place the switches somewhere convenient.
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post #36366 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
Even on the 20a version of that, you still wouldn't want to be running something like an a14-k through there I would imagine?
Running two Crest CC5500's, two Crest CC4000's, Yamaha CX-A5100, Yamaha Blu-ray player, Gigabyte network switch, Roku, and cable DVR through one with no issues at playback over 130 dB. I'm doing the final calibration in the next couple of weeks and will take a screenshot of the Juice Goose Control Panel during playback. It shows the current being used. There are two 20 amp circuits to the rack, but I'm only using one and testing it out. Each subwoofer is also on its own 20 amp circuit.

One can use Amplicalc to determine amp/voltage requirements based off desired SPL and speaker/subwoofer sensitivity.



For another theater, I spec'd a single 30 amp circuit to the theater. This has a lot of benefits and ends up costing about the same as separate circuits. You don't get grounding issues and noise issues, can use a single 30 amp isolation transformer if desired, and can add breakered circuits at the rack using a Rac Pac or similar.

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post #36367 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdome View Post
Running two Crest CC5500's, two Crest CC4000's, Yamaha CX-A5100, Yamaha Blu-ray player, Gigabyte network switch, Roku, and cable DVR through one with no issues at playback over 130 dB. I'm doing the final calibration in the next couple of weeks and will take a screenshot of the Juice Goose Control Panel during playback. It shows the current being used. There are two 20 amp circuits to the rack, but I'm only using one and testing it out. Each subwoofer is also on its own 20 amp circuit. ]
I count 7 plugs on that juice goose, and 9 components you just listed, how is that even possible?

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post #36368 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
I count 7 plugs on that juice goose, and 9 components you just listed, how is that even possible?
I have one or two short triple outlet extensions hanging off it right now. Eventually it may get a simple rack mount power distribution unit below it to add more outlets in a cleaner fashion. I was going to have just the amps on the IP-1520 since everything else can be powered up with IP control directly.

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post #36369 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 06:48 PM
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Official JTR speaker thread

Video of the microbot push turning the iNuke 6000dsp on and off.

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My home theater
Speakers: 3 JTR 212HTR (LCR), 2 Jtr Single 8LP (S), 2 JTR Triple 12LF (SB)) , 4 Volt 10LX (Atmos)
Subwoofers: 10 Sealed UXL-18, 5 Crowson Shadow 8 transducers, 3 Buttkicker LFE
Display: JVC RS400

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post #36370 of 37603 Old 12-22-2016, 07:15 PM
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Any of you guys using an Auro 3D configuration or tried it in your HT?
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post #36371 of 37603 Old 12-23-2016, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by asoofi1 View Post
Any of you guys using an Auro 3D configuration or tried it in your HT?
I bought the Auro 3D upgrade with my Marantz processor (7702) and setup the speaker locations for Auro. I slightly preferred Auro (actually the Auro upmixer, Auromatic) forM/C music but due to essentially no native Auro 3D titles being available, and some speaker naming issues with my SSP, I reverted to Atmos configuration settings. Now I use the Dolby Surround Upmixer (DSU) for all M/C content e.g. movies and concert bluray.

Auro had potential and if my SSP supported more surround sound format speaker naming I would probably still be using Auro for music. I've gotten used to DSU and the occasional Atmos title and so have no interest in changing SSP for that feature alone. If I had a do over, I'd skip the Auro upgrade.
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post #36372 of 37603 Old 12-23-2016, 10:17 AM
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The first of the new Noesis 228HT have shipped and the first of the new Noesis 212HT are about to ship.
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post #36373 of 37603 Old 12-23-2016, 11:26 AM
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I had a great time at the JTR 10th Anniversary GTG. It was nice meeting a bunch of people I had only known online before and spending time with Jeff's family. I can't believe it has already been two weeks.

Timeline
Thursday - Final surround setup for a theater with 3 Noesis 212HTR's, 4 Slant 8's, and 2 Orbit Shifter LFU's. Spent about an hour demoing stuff for the owner.
Friday - Flew in to Chicago at 7:20 am. Helped setup demo room and connect all gear. Listened to a single 210HT and a Captivator 1400. Went to pennynike1's late that night and heard Seaton Catalyst 12C's, Othorns, Terraforms, and Behringer surrounds
Saturday morning - Finished setting up demo room. Listened to 3 Noesis 228HT's, 4 Slant 8's, and 2 Captivator 1400's
Saturday afternoon/evening - Listened to 210HT's in demo room. Listened to Single 8's and dual Captivator 4000 LFU's in warehouse
Sunday - listened to Jeff's Noesis 215HT's in his family room, listened to the demo room some more, flew home Sunday night since morning flight was cancelled due to snow

Speakers
I love the clarity, detail, dynamics and smoothness of Jeff's speakers. I've heard all of these speakers now many times in different rooms (5th different room for the 215HT's!). The 215HT and 210HT are so enjoyable for two channel listening without subs. The form factor of the 210HT fits well with most rooms. The 215HT's seem so large in comparison. The 228HT and 212HT have to be among the best deal for a two-way speaker. The 228HT was very enjoyable to listen to for the several hours that stuff was playing in the demo room. I'm currently using Slant 8's for my surrounds and hope to eventually get either 212HTR's or 215HT's for my mains.

Subs
The Captivator 118's are an amazing sub for $1399 let alone the pre-order price of $1099 (through the end of December). The driver has 1/2" thick steel for the top/bottom plates, 240 oz magnets, and is extremely efficient. The Captivator 2400 have more low end output due to a lot more excursion. The Orbit Shifter LFU's have a great tactile feel to them with incredible headroom from 40Hz and up. The Captivator 4000ULF's are brutal on the low end while matching the OS LFU up to 50 Hz. These are all great subs that have slightly different personalities. I'll be hearing a pair of S2's again in a couple of weeks to round out my audition of JTR subs.

Design and production
While at the JTR facility, I had a chance to see a little more of what goes on with the speaker/sub design and build process. Jeff talks to customers, places orders with vendors, builds crossovers, tests crossovers, builds out the speakers and subs, tests the final product, packages everything himself, decides which events to attend, and has new designs in various stages of development or testing. Some parts are flown in from other countries like Germany, some products picked up weekly in Chicago, some custom parts are drop shipped to his driver manufacturers, and other items are delivered to the JTR facility. He does a great job of managing the entire process to ensure the finished product exceeds just about everything on the market with prices that are affordable by many. Everything from spade connector design, polyester batting weight, to custom voice coil windings that can withstand temperatures over 500F have been carefully selected, tested, and implemented into the products.

JTR Speakers is best summed up by the first line of AC/DC's iconic song:
We are the dealer
We'll give you everything you need
Hail hail to the good times
'Cos rock has got the right of way
We ain't no legends ain't no cause
We're just livin' for today
For those about to rock, we salute you
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post #36374 of 37603 Old 12-23-2016, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post
Should be no different than Nates light switch solution. Leaving the amp switched on and cutting the power would not harm a well designed amp as long as you don't have power surges and a surge protector should take care of that.

I should do one of these methods as switching on my amps each time is a PITA and I like the price of Ray's elan zpower power unit. Does it have a 12V trigger? and should I be concerned about the 15amp limitation with all of my amps on 20amp circuits?

Never mind, I read the manual online and ordered one just now. Thanks for the tip on that unit Ray
Great! I ordered another also!
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post #36375 of 37603 Old 12-24-2016, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdome View Post
I love the clarity, detail, dynamics and smoothness of Jeff's speakers.
I probably should have just quoted the entire post as it bears repeating but the quote above sums it up pretty well. We watched Sully last night with some family and the sound was just perfect (@ -12db ref). As usual we sat through the closing credits just for the music (who does that! ). Typical of Clint Eastwood there is a little jazz combo with female vocalist (Tierney Sutton Band) and it was a pitch perfect, goosebump inducing moment. When that happens (as it often does) I find myself thinking about Jeff toiling away in his shop creating these wonderful speakers that embody his attention to detail and work ethic. It always makes me feel good to know that I support this type of small business excellence.

Thanks for the nice summation of the JTR Anniversary Party DD and for the description of all that goes into making JTR a very special brand.
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Last edited by RMK!; 12-24-2016 at 10:11 AM.
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Originally Posted by ahmedreda View Post
Video of the microbot push turning the iNuke 6000dsp on and off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffEF...ature=youtu.be


Ha---thats fantastic!

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post #36377 of 37603 Old 12-24-2016, 04:08 PM
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Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to JTR, Jeff and all of my fellow JTR owners!


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post #36378 of 37603 Old 12-24-2016, 06:30 PM
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Hey all,

Any thoughts on which might be better for a guy building a 2 or 2.1 system primarily for music, but that will also serve the home theatre setup (and may eventually migrate to center/surround. Would JTR be a good choice for someone who loves most types of music, but finds himself mostly drawn to live rock music performances, classic rock era music, and blues? If so, which might work best, of these two options:
A. 2 JTR 210RT
or
B. 2 JTR 228 HT and 1 Captivator 118?
I'm intrigued by four things, but I'm really looking for a certain sound that these may be able to bring: A. efficiency, though most often I listen at lower levels, B. driver compliment similar to those used in concert systems, C. build quality (though there are a lot of speakers that're built well and sound bad for many years), D. the many reviews about how good these sounds on even audiophile oriented female vocals. At this point, I'm about to pull the trigger on at least a trial for a month, since I've not found a reasonable audition alternative in the area (Central Michigan).

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas or happy holidays to all.
Jim aka Less

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AUDIO: JRiver Media Center > DAC: Schiit Modi2 Dac > LOWPASS: Triad Silver Sub (w/xover & amp) > HIGHPASS (100hz+): Primaluna Prologue Premium (KT88) > Gallo Strada 2
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post #36379 of 37603 Old 12-24-2016, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1less View Post
Hey all,

Any thoughts on which might be better for a guy building a 2 or 2.1 system primarily for music, but that will also serve the home theatre setup (and may eventually migrate to center/surround. Would JTR be a good choice for someone who loves most types of music, but finds himself mostly drawn to live rock music performances, classic rock era music, and blues? If so, which might work best, of these two options:
A. 2 JTR 210RT
or
B. 2 JTR 228 HT and 1 Captivator 118?
I'm intrigued by four things, but I'm really looking for a certain sound that these may be able to bring: A. efficiency, though most often I listen at lower levels, B. driver compliment similar to those used in concert systems, C. build quality (though there are a lot of speakers that're built well and sound bad for many years), D. the many reviews about how good these sounds on even audiophile oriented female vocals. At this point, I'm about to pull the trigger on at least a trial for a month, since I've not found a reasonable audition alternative in the area (Central Michigan).

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas or happy holidays to all.
Jim aka Less
For primarily music get the 210RT's. You can always add a sub later if needed.
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post #36380 of 37603 Old 12-24-2016, 08:42 PM
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Like desertdome, I too was at the 10 Year Anniversary Party a couple weeks ago. I wasn't able to stay for very long, but it was long enough to hear a pair of the 4000s, and the setup in the demo room. I initially thought I was listening to a pair of 1400s in the demo room and was surprised to learn that they were actually Jeff's new 118ht subwoofers. They were incredibly punchy, tight, and clean. Everything I heard coming though that system sounded really good. The 4000s were insane! He had them set up in his large warehouse, which (I'm guessing) seemed to be about 100ft long, 50 ft wide, and about 30ft high. The whole place was rattling and shaking with those dual 4000s! Absolutely crazy! Jeff's a great guy, and he makes good stuff. It was fun to hang out for a bit and meet some of the folks from here too!

Dedicated Theater Room: Aperion Verus Grand Towers and Center, Aperion Intimus 4BP Surrounds, Dual JTR Cap 1400s, Emotiva UMC-200 Processor, Emotiva XPA-2 and UPA-7
Epson 5030UB Projector, 100" Elite Saker Tab Tension Acoustically Transparent Screen, HT Design Southampton Seats, DIY Bass Traps and Acoustic Panels
Office: Emotiva Airmotiv 6S Monitors, Aperion 8D Subwoofer, Emotiva DC-1 DAC, Emotiva Control Freak (Balanced)
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post #36381 of 37603 Old 12-24-2016, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by raynist View Post
Great! I ordered another also!
Add me to the list! After reading this I ordered a unit as well. I have (2) Crest CC4000's that i can turn off through my Marantz 8802A processor which has the 12v trigger out going into my Monster Power HTS3600 which the Crest amps are plugged into but still cannot control turning on my additional CC4000 that is in the fronstage running the 215RT's so with the Elan I can plug the 3rd CC4000 into it then run another 12v control wire from the 2nd trigger out on the Marantz to control the Elan and be able to turn on all (3) of the amps at the same time so this will be very convenient so yes a great find thank you!
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post #36382 of 37603 Old 12-25-2016, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1less View Post
Hey all,

Any thoughts on which might be better for a guy building a 2 or 2.1 system primarily for music, but that will also serve the home theatre setup (and may eventually migrate to center/surround. Would JTR be a good choice for someone who loves most types of music, but finds himself mostly drawn to live rock music performances, classic rock era music, and blues? If so, which might work best, of these two options:
A. 2 JTR 210RT
or
B. 2 JTR 228 HT and 1 Captivator 118?
I'm intrigued by four things, but I'm really looking for a certain sound that these may be able to bring: A. efficiency, though most often I listen at lower levels, B. driver compliment similar to those used in concert systems, C. build quality (though there are a lot of speakers that're built well and sound bad for many years), D. the many reviews about how good these sounds on even audiophile oriented female vocals. At this point, I'm about to pull the trigger on at least a trial for a month, since I've not found a reasonable audition alternative in the area (Central Michigan).

Thanks in advance and Merry Christmas or happy holidays to all.
Jim aka Less
100% the 210's if you are into music.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #36383 of 37603 Old 12-25-2016, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
The first of the new Noesis 228HT have shipped
Any user reviews?
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post #36384 of 37603 Old 12-25-2016, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdome View Post
Running two Crest CC5500's, two Crest CC4000's, Yamaha CX-A5100, Yamaha Blu-ray player, Gigabyte network switch, Roku, and cable DVR through one with no issues at playback over 130 dB. I'm doing the final calibration in the next couple of weeks and will take a screenshot of the Juice Goose Control Panel during playback. It shows the current being used. There are two 20 amp circuits to the rack, but I'm only using one and testing it out. Each subwoofer is also on its own 20 amp circuit.

One can use Amplicalc to determine amp/voltage requirements based off desired SPL and speaker/subwoofer sensitivity.



For another theater, I spec'd a single 30 amp circuit to the theater. This has a lot of benefits and ends up costing about the same as separate circuits. You don't get grounding issues and noise issues, can use a single 30 amp isolation transformer if desired, and can add breakered circuits at the rack using a Rac Pac or similar.

I'm using two dedicated 30amp lines with my crest cc5500 amps. What exactly is that in the pic with the 30A inputs?

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post #36385 of 37603 Old 12-26-2016, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by cannga View Post
I was reading some of Chucky7's old posts and it seems his neighbor whose detached home is 30 ft away was complaining about the noise (that was the moment MUST...HAVE...THIS came to my mind LOL). These colossal 18" monsters are doing things that are hard for even seasoned, die-hard audiophiles (in the good sense of the word, ie many of us) to comprehend.

And you sir, could add 2 dB to all this nonsense . How could we not love a company that has the balls, er... singular vision, to do 40"x40" subwoofs? It's the true spirit of high-end audio, doing what's possible, and not what would sell the most number (although that probably wouldn't hurt too much :-)).

I totally agree that the JTR subs are articulate enough to become a hit in the audiophile market. They outperform audiophile subs way above their price points. Although JTR is well known among AVS Home Theater members, Jeff does not yet have much exposure to the High End Audio market. I'm talking to him about participating in the LA Audio Show this coming June to rectify that situation.

Take a look at the products listed below. The JTR subs (particularly the 4000ULF) represent a dramatically higher value and often a greater level of performance:



Avantgarde Basshorns $39,000 pair
($117,000 - full set of six)

http://www.avantgarde-acoustic.de/ba...roduct-en.html





Eminent Technology TRW-17 $22,000 - $26,000
($12,900 + amp, manifold and back wave chambers)

http://www.rotarywoofer.com





Wilson Audio Thor's Hammer $21,000

http://www.wilsonaudio.com/products/thors-hammer





JL Gotham V2 $15,000

http://www.jlaudio.com/home-audio-po...fers-gotham-v2





Paradigm Sub 2 $10,500

http://www.paradigm.com/products-cur.../page=overview





Danley Sound Labs TH221 $10,000+
"Cinemonster"

http://www.danleysoundlabs.com/produ...-horns/th-221/





Legacy Goliath XD $9,950

http://legacyaudio.com/products/view...-xd-subwoofer/





Genelec 7073a $9,895

http://www.genelec.com/studio-monito...udio-subwoofer





THIEL SS4 $8,900

http://www.ecoustics.com/products/th...b-ss1-ss2-ss3/





Cabasse Santorin 38 $7,324

http://www.cabasse.com/en/collection...antorin-38-en/





Monitor Audio PL 215 II $6,995

http://www.monitoraudiousa.com/produ...m-ii/plw215-ii





VMPS VLA Series II $6,899

http://pointillistic.com/vmps-audio/subwoofers.htm





Velodine DD18+ $5,799

http://velodyneacoustics.com/subwoof...e-plus-18.html





RBH SX-1212PR $5,300

https://rbhsound.com/sv1212pr





German Physics The Subwoofer $4,635

http://www.german-physiks.com/legacy...-products.html





Funk Audio 18.3 $4,540

http://www.funkaudio.ca/store/p10/Fu...er_-_18.3.html





Bowers & Wilkins DB1 $4,500

http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/Speake...ofers/DB1.html





Klipsch Palladium 312W $4,000

http://www.klipsch.com/products/palladium-subwoofers





Martin Logan Balanced Force 212 $3,999

http://www.martinlogan.com/balancedforce/index.php





JTR Captivator 4000ULF $3,199

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/captivator-4000ulf/





Seaton Sound Subversive F2 $3,195
(Rosenut)

http://www.seaton-sound-forum.com/po...ferent-5509423





M&K Sound MX-250 $2,950

http://www.mksound.com/subwoofers/mx-250





Genesis G928 $2,600

http://www.genesisloudspeakers.com/g928.html





Snell Acoustics ICS Sub24 $2,600

http://www.soundandvision.com/conten...3dyukRIoO8u.97





JTR Captivator 218HT $2,298

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/captivator-218ht/





JTR Captivator 1400 $1,899

http://jtrspeakers.com/home-audio/captivator1400/





Vandersteen 2W $1,650

http://vandersteen.com/categories/subwoofers

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post #36386 of 37603 Old 12-26-2016, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mcallister View Post
I'm using two dedicated 30amp lines with my crest cc5500 amps. What exactly is that in the pic with the 30A inputs?
That would be this
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post #36387 of 37603 Old 12-26-2016, 12:22 PM
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Any user reviews?
Only a couple people have gotten them so far however everyone at our 10th anniversary party got to hear them
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post #36388 of 37603 Old 12-26-2016, 04:37 PM
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Guys, long time follower of this thread and currently looking to make some speaker upgrades in my dedicated room. I have the dimensions listed below along with the equipment I have (am keeping) and what I am thinking will be the best speaker for my setup. Any helpful feedback would be appreciated...critical feedback is welcome as well.

My dedicated theater room was a converted 4th bay of a large garage. It was done before I moved in, is completely light controlled and even has cool padding/fabric walls. Dimensions are:
Length - 18' at the shortest (back portion of wall has shelves/storage room for the equipment); 20' at the longest to the entry; first seats are 9' from the screen, second set are 14' (where I usually sit for movies and gaming)
Width - 9'9"
Height - 10' ceilings

I have a JVC RS4810 projector firing on a 100" non-acoustically transparent screen (no idea what kind it is, was here when I moved in but works). Receiver is a Marantz SR6007 hooked up to an xbox one, Oppo 103D, Apple TV, then a bunch of older gaming consoles since I am in my mid 30's and still like to rock the NES or SNES from time to time.

Current speaker setup is Kipsch entry level towers, center, and SL and SR, all matching. In the rear of the room is a HSU VTF3-MK5 sub, and a second one is on the way thanks to the holidays and WAF being higher than usual this week.

I want to initially upgrade the front 3, then do the surround and rears sometime later this year. Due to not being able to put anything behind the screen, the front 3 will be visible, though I am not too concerned around that. There are custom cabinets around the screen, so the CC will end up going on a shelf about 2 feet below the screen and aiming at the main listening position. The L and R will flank either side of the screen, being placed in the corners. I am thinking due to the space the 228HTRs would be best...I would just need to either put them on stands or maybe even the HSU subs if I re-position them up in the front instead of being in the rear (1) and next to front seat position (2). I have also considered doing the 210 RT for L/R duty and a 228HTR for center, but given the room is basically 90% movies/gaming and 10% music and I will have 2 capable subs already, the 210s might not be necessary or the best option. I really want to keep a single receiver for all power duty and not have to get separate amps if possible, so hoping the Marantz will be capable without having to update it (at least for now).

Thanks for taking the time to help me make the right decision.

GT: xxBogeyFreexx
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post #36389 of 37603 Old 12-26-2016, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by CarsandCigars View Post
Guys, long time follower of this thread and currently looking to make some speaker upgrades in my dedicated room. I have the dimensions listed below along with the equipment I have (am keeping) and what I am thinking will be the best speaker for my setup. Any helpful feedback would be appreciated...critical feedback is welcome as well.

My dedicated theater room was a converted 4th bay of a large garage. It was done before I moved in, is completely light controlled and even has cool padding/fabric walls. Dimensions are:
Length - 18' at the shortest (back portion of wall has shelves/storage room for the equipment); 20' at the longest to the entry; first seats are 9' from the screen, second set are 14' (where I usually sit for movies and gaming)
Width - 9'9"
Height - 10' ceilings

I have a JVC RS4810 projector firing on a 100" non-acoustically transparent screen (no idea what kind it is, was here when I moved in but works). Receiver is a Marantz SR6007 hooked up to an xbox one, Oppo 103D, Apple TV, then a bunch of older gaming consoles since I am in my mid 30's and still like to rock the NES or SNES from time to time.

Current speaker setup is Kipsch entry level towers, center, and SL and SR, all matching. In the rear of the room is a HSU VTF3-MK5 sub, and a second one is on the way thanks to the holidays and WAF being higher than usual this week.

I want to initially upgrade the front 3, then do the surround and rears sometime later this year. Due to not being able to put anything behind the screen, the front 3 will be visible, though I am not too concerned around that. There are custom cabinets around the screen, so the CC will end up going on a shelf about 2 feet below the screen and aiming at the main listening position. The L and R will flank either side of the screen, being placed in the corners. I am thinking due to the space the 228HTRs would be best...I would just need to either put them on stands or maybe even the HSU subs if I re-position them up in the front instead of being in the rear (1) and next to front seat position (2). I have also considered doing the 210 RT for L/R duty and a 228HTR for center, but given the room is basically 90% movies/gaming and 10% music and I will have 2 capable subs already, the 210s might not be necessary or the best option. I really want to keep a single receiver for all power duty and not have to get separate amps if possible, so hoping the Marantz will be capable without having to update it (at least for now).

Thanks for taking the time to help me make the right decision.
Spot on reasoning.

Go with either 3x228HTRs or 2x210RT+1x210RM, rather than mixing 210s and 228s.
Using speaker that are designed to be used together will give you the best imaging and timbre matching.

As you pointed out, the 228HTRs are more efficient, if you plan to run with subs and without separates.

The 210s would be the way to go if you wanted to run the LRs full range for music, rather than use subs, although there is a tradeoff in terms of efficiency. I like multiple subs myself, but some people prefer full range speakers.
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Last edited by rcohen; 12-26-2016 at 09:58 PM.
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post #36390 of 37603 Old 12-26-2016, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarsandCigars View Post
Guys, long time follower of this thread and currently looking to make some speaker upgrades in my dedicated room. I have the dimensions listed below along with the equipment I have (am keeping) and what I am thinking will be the best speaker for my setup. Any helpful feedback would be appreciated...critical feedback is welcome as well.

My dedicated theater room was a converted 4th bay of a large garage. It was done before I moved in, is completely light controlled and even has cool padding/fabric walls. Dimensions are:
Length - 18' at the shortest (back portion of wall has shelves/storage room for the equipment); 20' at the longest to the entry; first seats are 9' from the screen, second set are 14' (where I usually sit for movies and gaming)
Width - 9'9"
Height - 10' ceilings

I have a JVC RS4810 projector firing on a 100" non-acoustically transparent screen (no idea what kind it is, was here when I moved in but works). Receiver is a Marantz SR6007 hooked up to an xbox one, Oppo 103D, Apple TV, then a bunch of older gaming consoles since I am in my mid 30's and still like to rock the NES or SNES from time to time.

Current speaker setup is Kipsch entry level towers, center, and SL and SR, all matching. In the rear of the room is a HSU VTF3-MK5 sub, and a second one is on the way thanks to the holidays and WAF being higher than usual this week.

I want to initially upgrade the front 3, then do the surround and rears sometime later this year. Due to not being able to put anything behind the screen, the front 3 will be visible, though I am not too concerned around that. There are custom cabinets around the screen, so the CC will end up going on a shelf about 2 feet below the screen and aiming at the main listening position. The L and R will flank either side of the screen, being placed in the corners. I am thinking due to the space the 228HTRs would be best...I would just need to either put them on stands or maybe even the HSU subs if I re-position them up in the front instead of being in the rear (1) and next to front seat position (2). I have also considered doing the 210 RT for L/R duty and a 228HTR for center, but given the room is basically 90% movies/gaming and 10% music and I will have 2 capable subs already, the 210s might not be necessary or the best option. I really want to keep a single receiver for all power duty and not have to get separate amps if possible, so hoping the Marantz will be capable without having to update it (at least for now).

Thanks for taking the time to help me make the right decision.
Based upon your preferences and current setup, going with 228HTR LCR's seems like a no-brainer. If you have measuring equipment (suggest you buy an OmniMic if you don't) it would be good to test the bass at the current and front locations and choose the location that provides the best measured frequency response and subjective sound quality. Anyway you go I'm pretty sure you will love the sound.
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