Official JTR speaker thread - Page 729 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
Any recommendations for a 3 channel amp under $2000?
If you want to save a lot of money you could get an Inuke 6000 to power the mains and an Inuke 3000 (bridged) to power the center.

With that amount of power I can go to around +8 or +9 with music and +4ish with heavy hitting bass movie scenes at the listening position with all the bass and LFE going to the 215's before ever seeing any kind of clip light at all. I can go louder and don't hear any bad sounds but I didn't want to hurt the amp.

The 6000 did give me audible hiss, Archaea could not hear it at my LP but I could just barely. With the 3000 I hear no hiss at all. You may not hear any hiss though since your avr or pre/pro is undoubtedly better than mine.

Now, if your amps are in the room you won't want to do that since the fans or loud but you could do a fan mod if you can't put the amps in another room - I'm doing the next room method.
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:44 PM
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Any recommendations for a 3 channel amp under $2000?
http://www.d-sonic.net/products/3-channel-amplifiers/
The M2 1500 3 x 1000 wpc @ 4ohm
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Nate, I want to know how this sounds on your earthquake machine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oThJ94PIRc
I remember that song was in the line up at one of the GTG shootouts. It has a catchy beat.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
Parasound A31
What speakers are you running? My Parasound Halo amps can go above reference with no sweat on my JTR 212s. With the 215s, maybe you would want more than 250 watts a channel or are you running another brand. I could see hungry speakers clipping off a Halo amp when pushed above reference but not the majority of the JTRs or similar speakers.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:01 PM
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It's the Parasound Halo A31

And I am running three 215RT's
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:09 PM
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It's the Parasound Halo A31

And I am running three 215RT's
Yeah, if you are running them full range and above reference I could see them clipping. Takes some energy to get six 15 inch woofers to play full range. As others have mentioned, maybe look into brands like Wyre4sound and D-sonic that can pump out 500+ watts per channel.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:17 PM
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I think if you are going to buy a new amp go all out and try to get 2000 watts per speaker, or something in that neighborhood.

The 215's need a TON more power than the 212's, so give 'em all the juice they can handle. If you go from 250 watts to 500 watts you only gain 3 db's. 250 watts to 2000 watts you gain 9 dbs which is very significant.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:21 PM
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This will totally show my PJ inexperience but...JBrown why do you wish you would have gone scope? Also if you have a 2:35:1 screen size how does that work with normal 16:9 videos like TV or shows or some 16:9 movies? Does the video height just stay the same and not quite as long vertically? I am guessing you get some light reflection from the screen with a 2:35:1 format on a 16:9 screen? I think I have read guys building covers for screens. Either way I can still fit my JTR T8 LP behind the screen.

Also curious what some of you think about his. I have a window on my TV wall that is stuffed with insulation and covered with a big black fabric I tacked on the wall to give the appearance of cosmetic symmetry. If I sat the T8 LP in the window cutout, which would allow me to have the screen that much closer to the wall rather than sticking out further, the CD would be 6 inches higher than the L&R T8 HT mains which sit on top of each Submersive on the L&R sides. The T8 HT mains on the Submersives are near perfect ear height while sitting. They might be and inch or two low. I know it's best to have them all the same. So would this be an issue? Defeat the purpose of getting all front three the same height? If so I will shoot for exact CD height across front three.
You go with the center on the windowsill method, you could just build some little stands for the subm's to get them all at the same level, I am used to having the compressions drivers a couple inches above my ear height but I really like it this way as it sounds perfect at my seat, and helps the second row out tremendously over them being a couple inches lower.

As far as the 2.35 goes, you know right now when you watch some movies and the black bars are at the top and bottom of the screen? Well, by going cinemascope, you alleviate that and the picture fills up the whole screen. The problem is when you are watching normal tv or gaming, both of which are shot in 16:9 format, you then get the black bars on either side of the picture. If you were to go scope, you would have to get something like the panny8000, newever JVC, (not sure about the sony's) that have the lens shift so you can basically have a setting that works right depending on what you are watching.

The general consensus is you make small sacrifices with your 16:9 picture for the most epic widescreen experience for the big blockbuster films that are mostly shot in scope format. Oh, and yes, most guys build out "masking panels" to put up on either side of their screen to immediately make it appear as if it was a 16:9 screen from the get-go. This also helps to absorb some of the light the PJ might be throwing in the dead areas. It bothers some people, but my guess is you will be so far in heaven you won't even notice it. I haven't for 4 years now Haha.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by carp View Post
I think if you are going to buy a new amp go all out and try to get 2000 watts per speaker, or something in that neighborhood.

The 215's need a TON more power than the 212's, so give 'em all the juice they can handle. If you go from 250 watts to 500 watts you only gain 3 db's. 250 watts to 2000 watts you gain 9 dbs which is very significant.
+1

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Old 08-11-2014, 07:30 PM
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Even if you just bump up to 1,000 watts, you are getting that additional 6dB's, which is much more suitable than an extra 3. Might I ask what levels did you hear this crackling at? Do you plan on listening at that level or were you just stretching the system's capabilities to see what it could do? If the former, do not pass go, and head straight to 2,000 watts to get all you need out of it. If the latter and you were just testing and don't plan on going that heavy ever, then you could probably 'just' suffice with 1,000 watts per channel.

I just read ^that^ and thought, my god, what have we come to? I remember telling people they were silly for dumping 2,000 watts on their 212's and I still agree with that, but Jeff has now built a monster that literally demands just about all you can throw at it. Pretty cool stuff!
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:21 PM
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It's the Parasound Halo A31

And I am running three 215RT's
Are you running your subs with the 215's?
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:32 PM
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It was at reference only, and I would be listening at that all the time. I need a 2000 watt for sure it sounds like.
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:51 PM
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I know a guy that might be selling his well maintained LG 10000Q shortly. I'll be sure to tell him to contact you if you're interested.
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:51 PM
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Just remember, if you are room width limited, go 16:9. If your are room height limited, go scope....You will get to go wayy bigger.
I have a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen right now, with my front stage that I built that about as big as I could go. But if I went with a 2.35:1 screen I could go with a 120" wide screen. My only concern then would be if my projector would be bright enough for a screen that big. I guess I could just turn it to high mode when watching anything in 2.35:1 and normal mode in 16:9 mode.
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:05 PM
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How would a Peavey IPR2 7500 do at powering the 215RT's? Two of them would only cost $1600, SOWK that might be a good option.
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:04 PM
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SOWK, I can still bring over the LG10k if you want. It will drive the 215 to their limits. I don't have it running yet in my theater so it is no problem.

Pre-Pro: Emotiva XMC-1 w/Dirac Live, DSP: Mini DSP 2x4 balanced
Amplifiers: Sunfire TGA7400 (surrounds), Lab Gruppen FP10000Q (mains)
Speakers: JTR Noesis 212HTR (LCR), JTR Slant 8's (surrounds), 3 Orbit Shifter LFU's
Sources: PS3, HTPC, Dish Network
Projector: Sony VPL HW40ES
Screen: Seymour XD AT 138" diagonal 16:9
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:07 PM
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SOWK, I can still bring over the LG10k if you want. It will drive the 215 to their limits. I don't have it running yet in my theater so it is no problem.
That's one hell of a nice offer!
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:27 PM
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Why not get an iNuke DSP 6000 for the 215RT? Only $400. Puts out a bench tested 2k watts at 4ohms per channel. Has flat out awesome DSP that will let you program in the house curve of your choice and even supply dynamic EQ! Seems like for the price to performance and wattage it's a standout option?!!?!?!?!
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:56 PM
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Why not get an iNuke DSP 6000 for the 215RT? Only $400. Puts out a bench tested 2k watts at 4ohms per channel. Has flat out awesome DSP that will let you program in the house curve of your choice and even supply dynamic EQ! Seems like for the price to performance and wattage it's a standout option?!!?!?!?!
That's the option I went with too. I put in order for 2 6000 dsp. I save some money going that route. My first decision was 3 xls 2500 that would take me to $1800 vs 800. The only thing though is that cooling system is loud on the inukes. Then I figured it wouldn't matter much since my 2 dedicated circuits are setup at the next room. Where my amps going to go.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:10 PM
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You go with the center on the windowsill method, you could just build some little stands for the subm's to get them all at the same level, I am used to having the compressions drivers a couple inches above my ear height but I really like it this way as it sounds perfect at my seat, and helps the second row out tremendously over them being a couple inches lower.

As far as the 2.35 goes, you know right now when you watch some movies and the black bars are at the top and bottom of the screen? Well, by going cinemascope, you alleviate that and the picture fills up the whole screen. The problem is when you are watching normal tv or gaming, both of which are shot in 16:9 format, you then get the black bars on either side of the picture. If you were to go scope, you would have to get something like the panny8000, newever JVC, (not sure about the sony's) that have the lens shift so you can basically have a setting that works right depending on what you are watching.

The general consensus is you make small sacrifices with your 16:9 picture for the most epic widescreen experience for the big blockbuster films that are mostly shot in scope format. Oh, and yes, most guys build out "masking panels" to put up on either side of their screen to immediately make it appear as if it was a 16:9 screen from the get-go. This also helps to absorb some of the light the PJ might be throwing in the dead areas. It bothers some people, but my guess is you will be so far in heaven you won't even notice it. I haven't for 4 years now Haha.
So do these higher end PJ's auto recognize the format and make the shift for you? So basically a 16:9 image will be smaller by going with a scope screen then. I was planning on doing some gaming and we watch a lot of downloaded shows. We went through all seasons of Game of Thrones, Vikings, Arrow, and my wife has never watched Dexter so we just started season 3. I do plan on getting all of them on blu ray in the future, to re-watch, as they are all downloads now. Those are all 16:9 right? My natural instinct is to go 16:9. But I don't have experience and the 2:35:1 guys love it...

I like your idea with raising up the Submersives which act as speaker stand for L&R Triple 8's. They sit a couple inches below ear level while sitting so going up 6 inches will put the prob like 4 inches above ear level. I wonder if 6 inches will changes bass room response? I am sure not much though.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:12 PM
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I know a guy that might be selling his well maintained LG 10000Q shortly. I'll be sure to tell him to contact you if you're interested.
Doc, found a room full of speakers you should test out
at one point the camera man shifts his position to the left side of the left speaker and you can see the side wall full of speakers!

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Old 08-11-2014, 11:13 PM
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I have a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen right now, with my front stage that I built that about as big as I could go. But if I went with a 2.35:1 screen I could go with a 120" wide screen. My only concern then would be if my projector would be bright enough for a screen that big. I guess I could just turn it to high mode when watching anything in 2.35:1 and normal mode in 16:9 mode.
I am more width limited than height limited. So a scope would be smaller..
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Why not get an iNuke DSP 6000 for the 215RT? Only $400. Puts out a bench tested 2k watts at 4ohms per channel. Has flat out awesome DSP that will let you program in the house curve of your choice and even supply dynamic EQ! Seems like for the price to performance and wattage it's a standout option?!!?!?!?!
Plus it is already tested and proven by Carp
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:27 PM
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I am more width limited than height limited. So a scope would be smaller..

If you're width limited just go with the biggest 16:9 that you can make work.
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:30 PM
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If you're width limited just go with the biggest 16:9 that you can make work.
Glad you think so since I was feeling that way Also glad to have some west coasters up still
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Doc, found a room full of speakers you should test out
at one point the camera man shifts his position to the left side of the left speaker and you can see the side wall full of speakers!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1tW...=RDjRFMPlrti_I
Ha, that's awesome! Those Avantegarde's sound good from what I read. Man, those massive red horn speakers behind them are awesome looking.

But my audio thoughts are consumed by the M2 right now...
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:41 PM
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Glad you think so since I was feeling that way Also glad to have some west coasters up still

Haha, I'm actually trying to get some work done after getting my kids put down for the night. But pop onto the forum every once and a while.
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:41 AM
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SOWK, I can still bring over the LG10k if you want. It will drive the 215 to their limits. I don't have it running yet in my theater so it is no problem.
Seriously, thank you for the offer.
But I'm afraid of the outcome to my bank account and wife acceptance at the moment.

What I will do in the mean time is keep the submersives and cross them over at 40htz to ease the amp and let the Seatons take over from there.
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Why not get an iNuke DSP 6000 for the 215RT? Only $400. Puts out a bench tested 2k watts at 4ohms per channel. Has flat out awesome DSP that will let you program in the house curve of your choice and even supply dynamic EQ! Seems like for the price to performance and wattage it's a standout option?!!?!?!?!

Are the amps loud? I have to have in room...
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Old 08-12-2014, 04:53 AM
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Are the amps loud? I have to have in room...
There seems to be some personal preference on this. I rarely notice mine on, but some guys do think it is loud. My ps3'sfan is definitely louder than my inuke's (3000dsp).
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