Official JTR speaker thread - Page 733 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #21961 of 30452 Old 08-11-2014, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
Glad you think so since I was feeling that way Also glad to have some west coasters up still

Haha, I'm actually trying to get some work done after getting my kids put down for the night. But pop onto the forum every once and a while.
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post #21962 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post
SOWK, I can still bring over the LG10k if you want. It will drive the 215 to their limits. I don't have it running yet in my theater so it is no problem.
Seriously, thank you for the offer.
But I'm afraid of the outcome to my bank account and wife acceptance at the moment.

What I will do in the mean time is keep the submersives and cross them over at 40htz to ease the amp and let the Seatons take over from there.
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post #21963 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Why not get an iNuke DSP 6000 for the 215RT? Only $400. Puts out a bench tested 2k watts at 4ohms per channel. Has flat out awesome DSP that will let you program in the house curve of your choice and even supply dynamic EQ! Seems like for the price to performance and wattage it's a standout option?!!?!?!?!

Are the amps loud? I have to have in room...
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post #21964 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
Are the amps loud? I have to have in room...
There seems to be some personal preference on this. I rarely notice mine on, but some guys do think it is loud. My ps3'sfan is definitely louder than my inuke's (3000dsp).
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post #21965 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post
Why not get an iNuke DSP 6000 for the 215RT? Only $400. Puts out a bench tested 2k watts at 4ohms per channel. Has flat out awesome DSP that will let you program in the house curve of your choice and even supply dynamic EQ! Seems like for the price to performance and wattage it's a standout option?!!?!?!?!
The iNuke DSP series is a nice amp for the price. I got a iNuke DSP 3000 and set it up this past weekend for the L / R T12s. I was running a QSC GX-5 for the L / R so I was already running a pro-amp for them. I switched out the amps and then re-ran Audyssey pro kit to balance everything out. After running Audyssey against the system I custom tuned the L / R sound using the iNuke DSP.

Cons:
Noise - It is about the same as other pro amps.
Noise floor - There is a more pronounced hiss than other amps I have used; QSC, Outlaw, Emotiva. I guess my house's power isn't clean and the iNuke does show this more than others.

Pros:
Price - Inexpensive for the power and functionality.
DSP - Really nice interface, quick and easy to use with instant feedback.
Weight - Very light which is great for those with bad backs.

Going along the lines of what Jeff said about boosting the mid-bass I put on a +5 gain DEQ boost from 150 Hz on down capping it at 65 with a HPF and the results were jaw dropping for me. I ran just the L / R speakers and at first thought my subs were on when playing music, I had to get up and confirm that the sub amp was off. The change really brought the JTRs to life and they were producing the mid-bass (and some bass) I always wanted.

After getting the JTRs tweaked I boosted the subs to remove the Audyssey neutering and enjoyed some music and watched a couple of movies with a big smile on my face.
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post #21966 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
Are the amps loud? I have to have in room…
Fan mod it
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post #21967 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post
I have a 120" diagonal 16:9 screen right now, with my front stage that I built that about as big as I could go. But if I went with a 2.35:1 screen I could go with a 120" wide screen. My only concern then would be if my projector would be bright enough for a screen that big. I guess I could just turn it to high mode when watching anything in 2.35:1 and normal mode in 16:9 mode.
I have the 4910 on a 138" 16:9 right now that is pretty darn lossy and it looks incredible. No issues at all

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Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post
So do these higher end PJ's auto recognize the format and make the shift for you? So basically a 16:9 image will be smaller by going with a scope screen then. I was planning on doing some gaming and we watch a lot of downloaded shows. We went through all seasons of Game of Thrones, Vikings, Arrow, and my wife has never watched Dexter so we just started season 3. I do plan on getting all of them on blu ray in the future, to re-watch, as they are all downloads now. Those are all 16:9 right? My natural instinct is to go 16:9. But I don't have experience and the 2:35:1 guys love it...

I like your idea with raising up the Submersives which act as speaker stand for L&R Triple 8's. They sit a couple inches below ear level while sitting so going up 6 inches will put the prob like 4 inches above ear level. I wonder if 6 inches will changes bass room response? I am sure not much though.
Yep I agree with the sentiment so far that 16:9 is probably a good bet for you. Gaming is unreal with a huge screen. Just incredible.

As far as raising the subs and getting different response, you might be surprised, but it very well could improve your response vs. hurting it. I would actually lean towards it helping, as you would be getting the sub drivers a little closer to the vertical 1/4 points in the room.

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post #21968 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 07:12 AM
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Lets say I go for the inuke nu6000... What do I need to convert the XLR to speaker cable.
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post #21969 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
Seriously, thank you for the offer.
But I'm afraid of the outcome to my bank account and wife acceptance at the moment.

What I will do in the mean time is keep the submersives and cross them over at 40htz to ease the amp and let the Seatons take over from there.
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Originally Posted by Reefdvr27 View Post
There's your answer right there. The iNuke 6000 with the fan mod. Add the DSP capability and then you can let the 215RT's off the chain when you want without worry. Also, you can use their LFE capability which is significant. As beast noted above, having the subs up off the floor seems to have a positive effect. With enough power, I'm getting all I need and then some bass from the 215RT's and you need to give it a try ...

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post #21970 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
Lets say I go for the inuke nu6000... What do I need to convert the XLR to speaker cable.
You mean XLR to RCA? http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Technolog...osa+xlr+to+rca

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post #21971 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 07:37 AM
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I connect my JTR 215RT's to my current amp via speaker cable...

How would I connect the JTR's to the inuke?

The JTR's do not accept XLR or RCA inputs?

I'm missing something here. *Also I never worked with PRO audio gear before, so excuse my ignorance*

Last edited by SOWK; 08-12-2014 at 07:41 AM.
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post #21972 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by smbsocal View Post
The iNuke DSP series is a nice amp for the price. I got a iNuke DSP 3000 and set it up this past weekend for the L / R T12s. I was running a QSC GX-5 for the L / R so I was already running a pro-amp for them. I switched out the amps and then re-ran Audyssey pro kit to balance everything out. After running Audyssey against the system I custom tuned the L / R sound using the iNuke DSP.

Cons:
Noise - It is about the same as other pro amps.
Noise floor - There is a more pronounced hiss than other amps I have used; QSC, Outlaw, Emotiva. I guess my house's power isn't clean and the iNuke does show this more than others.

Pros:
Price - Inexpensive for the power and functionality.
DSP - Really nice interface, quick and easy to use with instant feedback.
Weight - Very light which is great for those with bad backs.

Going along the lines of what Jeff said about boosting the mid-bass I put on a +5 gain DEQ boost from 150 Hz on down capping it at 65 with a HPF and the results were jaw dropping for me. I ran just the L / R speakers and at first thought my subs were on when playing music, I had to get up and confirm that the sub amp was off. The change really brought the JTRs to life and they were producing the mid-bass (and some bass) I always wanted.

After getting the JTRs tweaked I boosted the subs to remove the Audyssey neutering and enjoyed some music and watched a couple of movies with a big smile on my face.
Very cool. Have it your way by using simple tools that are common place in pro audio, but unusual in the plug and play Audyssey Home Theater world. My eyes were opened and I wish these amps were around when I had my T12's. I would probably still have them as it was the appeal of something "better" rather than any dissatisfaction with the Triple 12's that prompted the "upgrade". ...

Along those lines, I would say the differences between the Triple 12's and the Noesis are relatively small. I am pretty sure that I could not pick one from the other in a DB test. The 215RT's are the best speaker upgrade I have done because of the full range capability. I know bass is a narcotic and appeals to the male instinct for power and the raw forces of nature, but there is a point where you are getting all of the intended information on the disk. By adding to it, you are essentially creating something else which is similar to what Bose does with their frequency neutering of the sound. Over emphasized bass artificially enhances it. It's like talking your wife/girlfriend into implants.

Oh well, I guess I just blew my argument with that last one ...
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post #21973 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
I connect my JTR 215RT's to my current amp via speaker cable...

How would I connect the JTR's to the inuke?

The JTR's do not accept XLR or RCA inputs?

I'm missing something here. *Also I never worked with PRO audio gear before, so excuse my ignorance*
You need to put speakon connectors on the amp end of the existing speaker cables. Very cheap to buy and easy to do. Youtube instructions on this simple process abound.

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post #21974 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
I connect my JTR 215RT's to my current amp via speaker cable...

How would I connect the JTR's to the inuke?

The JTR's do not accept XLR or RCA inputs?

I'm missing something here. *Also I never worked with PRO audio gear before, so excuse my ignorance*
I will be using XLR>RCA to the AVR and out with Speakon's > banana plugs. It is actually pretty simple. I just bought a handful of speakon's at monoprice for like $2 bucks a piece. I am using an Inuke 3000 dsp to start. I was afraid of overloading my circuit considering I only had room for one 20 amp receptacle for my rack (panel full). However, I have a friend who is a licensed electrician who we forgot about and I called him and he came and put in a new 200 amp panel in last weekend, I got the biggest panel they make. I am going to have him run me 2 more 20 amp dedicated lines to my theater. Got plenty of room for expansion now. Will defiantly be getting some bigger amps now.

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post #21975 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
I have the 4910 on a 138" 16:9 right now that is pretty darn lossy and it looks incredible. No issues at all
What is your PJ throw distance to the screen?

Thanks
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post #21976 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by RMK! View Post
Very cool. Have it your way by using simple tools that are common place in pro audio, but unusual in the plug and play Audyssey Home Theater world. My eyes were opened and I wish these amps were around when I had my T12's. I would probably still have them as it was the appeal of something "better" rather than any dissatisfaction with the Triple 12's that prompted the "upgrade". ...
Yeah I like the idea of using both, allowing Audyssey to balance everything and make it flat and then applying the 'house curve' on top of it to fine tune things to my taste. The Audyssey pro kit's +/- 3 DB changes really never seemed to do anything so the additional DSP was needed.

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Originally Posted by RMK! View Post
I know bass is a narcotic and appeals to the male instinct for power and the raw forces of nature, but there is a point where you are getting all of the intended information on the disk. By adding to it, you are essentially creating something else which is similar to what Bose does with their frequency neutering of the sound. Over emphasized bass artificially enhances it.
8 sealed MFWs hooked into a EP4000 and a SVS Ultra/2 handle 100 Hz and below so getting more out of the T12s above that realm was missing until now.
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post #21977 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
I connect my JTR 215RT's to my current amp via speaker cable...

How would I connect the JTR's to the inuke?

The JTR's do not accept XLR or RCA inputs?

I'm missing something here. *Also I never worked with PRO audio gear before, so excuse my ignorance*
From the iNuke to speakers I kept the same speaker cables in place, removed the banana clips and installed 4 wire speakons connectors. I have never installed speakon connectors before and it was super simple. It took a total of 5 minutes and once done I have to say it is very nice for connecting / disconnecting.

From the Denon receiver to the iNuke I have both XLR and TRS to RCA converters and both worked without issue. This allowed me to use the same RCA cable I had before and just add in a $2 part to the mix.
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post #21978 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
I have the 4910 on a 138" 16:9 right now that is pretty darn lossy and it looks incredible. No issues at all
That's the JVC, right?

Projector Central's calculator says your screen is too big for that projector to light up. I could see it if it was close but you are off the chart.

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post #21979 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 08:40 AM
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Re: The Inuke6000DSP: I've been very happy with mine so far. I haven't used the DSP function as I'm using my minidsp for now, but it does seem to have tons of power; power on par with my Peavey IPR in 4 ohm mode. The fans by default are slightly quieter on the inuke as well. The one con for the Inuke is that when powered on/off by my remote relay it does have quite a loud audible thump. This does not happen if you use the power button though. The amp seems to have a relay built in to power down the amp/DSP in specific sequences. Obviously using a remote relay to power the amp is like unplugging the cord which is why this issue exists. None of my other amps do that. I understand the non DSP model does not have this issue.
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post #21980 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
I connect my JTR 215RT's to my current amp via speaker cable...

How would I connect the JTR's to the inuke?

The JTR's do not accept XLR or RCA inputs?

I'm missing something here. *Also I never worked with PRO audio gear before, so excuse my ignorance*
You would connect your avr's preouts to the inuke's inputs, but you will need an rca to xlr adapter such as this:


http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1047...rds=rca+to+xlr


http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Technolog...rds=rca+to+xlr


Then you will need to use speaker wire with speakon connectors from the inuke to your 215. Here is how to attach speakon's:




Enjoy your 215's!
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post #21981 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post
That's the JVC, right?

Projector Central's calculator says your screen is too big for that projector to light up. I could see it if it was close but you are off the chart.
I've personally found that the Projector Central calculator is just a guide, it says that my JVC RS-45 would be really dim with my screen and distance the projector is mounted at. I still find my projector/screen combo very bright, I have a 1000hrs on my bulb now and still don't run it in high mode.
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post #21982 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 09:57 AM
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I've personally found that the Projector Central calculator is just a guide, it says that my JVC RS-45 would be really dim with my screen and distance the projector is mounted at. I still find my projector/screen combo very bright, I have a 1000hrs on my bulb now and still don't run it in high mode.
OF course it is a guide but it is based upon science (math) and manufacturers specs. The Projector Central Calculator Pro is an excellent guide that helps folks choose the right projector and screen. Some are fine with running their projectors at lower than recommended ANSI lumen levels (less than 16FL) and that's cool. But it is good to know where you stand in that regard and the Projection Central Calculator Pro is a nice free tool that does that for anyone who cares to use it.

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post #21983 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post
I connect my JTR 215RT's to my current amp via speaker cable...

How would I connect the JTR's to the inuke?

The JTR's do not accept XLR or RCA inputs?

I'm missing something here. *Also I never worked with PRO audio gear before, so excuse my ignorance*
Ah yes, the speakon connector is what you need, really the easiest connection on the planet to make.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooddoc View Post
What is your PJ throw distance to the screen?

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post
That's the JVC, right?

Projector Central's calculator says your screen is too big for that projector to light up. I could see it if it was close but you are off the chart.
What's off the chart about this?

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post #21984 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

What's off the chart about this?

I have no idea . I was just trying to figure out how far back I should mount my PJ since I have no clue about projectors. Little did I know there could be a possible issue with your setup and I apparently stepped in something . So I'll let you and RMK discuss this and maybe I can learn something along the way
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post #21985 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
Ah yes, the speakon connector is what you need, really the easiest connection on the planet to make.





What's off the chart about this?

Yellow = not bright enough as the "recommended higher brightness" in yellow says. If you look at the calculation by Throw Range (the default) rather than Diagonal measurement, 136" is the default maximum on the slider. That makes 138" "off the chart" IMHO.

The bottom line is you will have a hard time getting a 16FL reading without a bright (1.4 or more) screen. If Mr. Beast has a bright screen then he may be good.

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post #21986 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 12:09 PM
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I don't know of a single AT screen that measures above 1.0 total. Certainly not 1.4. I will say though, the image is plenty bright for me at this point and I get incredible contrast. I know a lot of the guys in the calibration section usually don't see much more than 12-14 calibrated lumens once they get done with their setups either. The BenQ by contrast was getting that 16fL+ image and it looked great too, but I don't see much difference at 11. I guess I would need to do a sbs to see honestly.

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post #21987 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 12:32 PM
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and also, playing around and switching to the x500 which is the same PJ as the 4910 I'm pretty sure, I then get 22 fL at the same settings. Not sure what to really think about that...

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post #21988 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 01:01 PM
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I run an rs4810 on a 158" diagonal 16x9 seymour xd in a dark room at minimum throw and it's great on low lamp mode. I had it professionally calibrated and he said that although it's on the low side he wouldn't hesitate to run it as is...and PJcentral says I'm "off the charts too". It probably wouldn't work well for 3d but I couldn't care less for that fad.

When will people finally figure out that RMK and his opinions are always correct and quit questioning it ?

(3) JTR Noesis 212HT (LCR)
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post #21989 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
I have the 4910 on a 138" 16:9 right now that is pretty darn lossy and it looks incredible. No issues at all



Yep I agree with the sentiment so far that 16:9 is probably a good bet for you. Gaming is unreal with a huge screen. Just incredible.

As far as raising the subs and getting different response, you might be surprised, but it very well could improve your response vs. hurting it. I would actually lean towards it helping, as you would be getting the sub drivers a little closer to the vertical 1/4 points in the room.
vertical for better response is exactly what I was thinking.

Oh yea, what was your DIY screen material ?

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DIY Sound Group Volt 10 surround speaker build
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post #21990 of 30452 Old 08-12-2014, 01:26 PM
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Some spandex material from hancock fabrics that set me back about $30 Remember when I told you it would work just fine for you? I wasn't kidding! Haha. I do plan to get a falcon screen here soon enough, just waiting on rich to iron out his 16:9 masking panels design.

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