Official JTR speaker thread - Page 740 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #22171 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by popalock View Post
Do you have a thread dedicated to your space? I'd love to subscribe to check out your progression.
I don't have a page yet. Was just on-site preparing to run low-voltage. I took a bunch of pictures, so I guess it's time to write something up :-)

Thanks everyone for the input. I guess I'll just make do with what I have for now and add as necessary.

As far as wiring, the equipment will be in the left-front behind the screen wall. Besides that, I'm wiring for side surrounds and back surrounds, along with 4 ceilings just in case.

I'll have to start reading up on the DIY subs, as otherwise I'm left with my SVS PB12-NSD.

Build thread link coming soon, gotta go back and pull some wire first.
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post #22172 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 02:11 PM
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Rhed - In case you didn't know it, you are in a seismically active zone. Please, for the love of humanity on the west coast, NO MORE SUBS! Haha...just kidding. Should be phenomenal. But instead of up front, I would put some subs on each wall as a start and then try different positions from there. Coach had 6 SI18s (2 pairs dual-opposed) up front and 1 DO SI18 in the back. We moved 1 DO SI18 to the left center wall and 1 to the right center wall and the bass was much better and then even better when calibrated in those positions.

Geez, I need to thank Coach for all the acoustical training I get...but he is getting a lot of my time too, so right now it is more of a synergistic time sink, which is better than the time AND money sink this hobby normally is. Of course, that's just because I have him spending all of the money right now. HA!
You know that's exactly how I have the 4 S2's position right now. 1 on each sides and 2 1/4 way in from the corner at the rears. I got the best response that way. Up front wasn't that great. I'm just speculating that the 21 inchers would give me a different response up front. As of right now, since it's gonna be my first DIY project I might start off with 2 for now just to see how it comes out after building it. And build the other 2 by next year. I'm hoping to start the first 2 by end of this year. Expect a lot of Pm's from me all you diy'ers. Lol.. Much help will be appreciated.. Gonna start hanging out on the DIY section and get some knowledge. Thanks dgage..
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post #22173 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 02:22 PM
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Rhed - In case you didn't know it, you are in a seismically active zone. Please, for the love of humanity on the west coast, NO MORE SUBS! Haha...just kidding. Should be phenomenal. But instead of up front, I would put some subs on each wall as a start and then try different positions from there. Coach had 6 SI18s (2 pairs dual-opposed) up front and 1 DO SI18 in the back. We moved 1 DO SI18 to the left center wall and 1 to the right center wall and the bass was much better and then even better when calibrated in those positions.

Geez, I need to thank Coach for all the acoustical training I get...but he is getting a lot of my time too, so right now it is more of a synergistic time sink, which is better than the time AND money sink this hobby normally is. Of course, that's just because I have him spending all of the money right now. HA!
Yup....and that is why your trips to my house will be limited.
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post #22174 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 02:26 PM
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The FTW 21's work best in a 6-7 cF box. Gives you good excursion and air spring to protect the driver in a reasonable size. I highly doubt putting them up front will change anything in your response. They will have less output that your S2's unless you go giant ported/horn.

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post #22175 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
The FTW 21's work best in a 6-7 cF box. Gives you good excursion and air spring to protect the driver in a reasonable size. I highly doubt putting them up front will change anything in your response. They will have less output that your S2's unless you go giant ported/horn.
That's the other questions that's been on my mine too N8. Do I really need to go sealed because the rest of my subs are? I know this have been brought up so many times with mixing sealed and ported. But is it really that hard for the 2 types to get along? I've been thinking of making the 21's ported instead. But, if it's gonna be a hassle, then I might stick to sealed enclosure.
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post #22176 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 02:53 PM
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That's the other questions that's been on my mine too N8. Do I really need to go sealed because the rest of my subs are? I know this have been brought up so many times with mixing sealed and ported. But is it really that hard for the 2 types to get along? I've been thinking of making the 21's ported instead. But, if it's gonna be a hassle, then I might stick to sealed enclosure.
It's harder but it's not THAT hard. Just need the right tools (proper eq such as opendrc etc) Saying that, the FTW needs a HUGE box for ported, 13-15 CF or so, so they might not be your best option if you do want to go ported unless you have the room of course. They do extremely well sealed, I love mine but if I was going to go ported, I'd go with the UXL instead just to keep the box size down. You would still get crazy output.

I can't think of any ported FTW builds that I've seen! But I can say that they are kick ass drivers. I've shut soooooo many guys mouths about big drivers being slow, boomy etc with a demo. Usually just a look of Holy FU$% on their faces after lol

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post #22177 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 02:57 PM
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What about the SI 24? 2 of those will be about the same cost of 4 FTW 21 (well I still gotta see what shipping is to Hawaii for the 2 24's or 4 21's). I'm thinking 4 X 2.25 X 1.5. That should take the cf over 13 sealed. And a inuke 6000dsp to power. Worth it? Probably will save some footprint if I go that route too.
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post #22178 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by N8DOGG View Post
It's harder but it's not THAT hard. Just need the right tools (proper eq such as opendrc etc) Saying that, the FTW needs a HUGE box for ported, 13-15 CF or so, so they might not be your best option if you do want to go ported unless you have the room of course. They do extremely well sealed, I love mine but if I was going to go ported, I'd go with the UXL instead just to keep the box size down. You would still get crazy output.

I can't think of any ported FTW builds that I've seen! But I can say that they are kick ass drivers. I've shut soooooo many guys mouths about big drivers being slow, boomy etc with a demo. Usually just a look of Holy FU$% on their faces after lol

My four cabinets are basically 13cu/ft, I'd love to hear some FTW-21's in them!
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post #22179 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 03:05 PM
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What about the SI 24? 2 of those will be about the same cost of 4 FTW 21 (well I still gotta see what shipping is to Hawaii for the 2 24's or 4 21's). I'm thinking 4 X 2.25 X 1.5. That should take the cf over 13 sealed. And a inuke 6000dsp to power. Worth it? Probably will save some footprint if I go that route too.
rhed, why not buy four UXL-18 drivers and pick up four flat pack cabinets from Erich and use those along with your four S2's to smooth out your response?
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post #22180 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 03:11 PM
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rhed, why not buy four UXL-18 drivers and pick up four flat pack cabinets from Erich and use those along with your four S2's to smooth out your response?
I agree. Rhed, you need to line all 4 walls with subs of some sort. Leaving an opening for entry/exit is strictly up to your preference.

See how easy it is to spend other people's money Coach?
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post #22181 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 03:16 PM
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rhed, why not buy four UXL-18 drivers and pick up four flat pack cabinets from Erich and use those along with your four S2's to smooth out your response?
I don't know! Something different maybe? 15"s, 18's , 21's or 24's?
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post #22182 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 03:18 PM
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I agree. Rhed, you need to line all 4 walls with subs of some sort. Leaving an opening for entry/exit is strictly up to your preference.

See how easy it is to spend other people's money Coach?
No I don't!
Wait.. No one told me to buy 21's or 24's.. Or the 4 S2's or the 3 215's or the 4 S8's...lol

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post #22183 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 03:32 PM
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That is probably what happened. Yes, I am trying to sell mine.
What's replacing the 215's once you sell them Coach?
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post #22184 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 03:33 PM
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What's replacing the 215's once you sell them Coach?

Cat12's.
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post #22185 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 03:40 PM
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Well certainly can't go wrong with Seatons I was just at his shop last week checking out some new stuff he's working on. Not sure what Mark is naming these but this dual 18" ported sub will definitely be bad-a$$. I believe he said it's tuned at 10.5Hz.
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post #22186 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:05 PM
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My four cabinets are basically 13cu/ft, I'd love to hear some FTW-21's in them!
If I remember right, if you wanted them to be your tune, they would be almost 17 cf lol.
I'm just going off the top of my head when I was looking into doing it. I was just running some omni sweeps and noticed moving my seating back 1 foot gets me a +9dB more hump at 50hz LOL Not touching anything and my house curve goes up a full 7dB's from about 50hz down.
Gotta love how 1 foot can change things so much. Not that it matters, I'm only running at 40% anyways. I've had a full day screwing around in the HT.... it's been a wonderful day (even though I miss my daughter)... now to eat enough sushi to get the fish sweats

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post #22187 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:07 PM
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Well certainly can't go wrong with Seatons I was just at his shop last week checking out some new stuff he's working on. Not sure what Mark is naming these but this dual 18" ported sub will definitely be bad-a$$. I believe he said it's tuned at 10.5Hz.
Are those dayton drivers in the back the um18's? looks like the right box size

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post #22188 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:08 PM
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If I remember right, if you wanted them to be your tune, they would be almost 17 cf lol.
I'm just going off the top of my head when I was looking into doing it. I was just running some omni sweeps and noticed moving my seating back 1 foot gets me a +9dB more hump at 50hz LOL Not touching anything and my house curve goes up a full 7dB's from about 50hz down.
Gotta love how 1 foot can change things so much. Not that it matters, I'm only running at 40% anyways. I've had a full day screwing around in the HT.... it's been a wonderful day (even though I miss my daughter)... now to eat enough sushi to get the fish sweats

Oh yeah for sure Nate, if I was to get the same port tune as my current cabinets a cabinet for the FTW-21 would need to be bigger then what I built for the UXL-18's.
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post #22189 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:16 PM
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Oh yeah for sure Nate, if I was to get the same port tune as my current cabinets a cabinet for the FTW-21 would need to be bigger then what I built for the UXL-18's.
I wonder if there is a ported build out there for the 21's?

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post #22190 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:19 PM
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Well certainly can't go wrong with Seatons I was just at his shop last week checking out some new stuff he's working on. Not sure what Mark is naming these but this dual 18" ported sub will definitely be bad-a$$. I believe he said it's tuned at 10.5Hz.

Wow that thing looks awesome!
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post #22191 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:21 PM
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Are those dayton drivers in the back the um18's? looks like the right box size
Yes they are Dayton drivers.
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post #22192 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:24 PM
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Yes they are Dayton drivers.
Is he using them in the sub pictured? I can't tell if they have dust caps, the um18's have smooth 1 piece cones with no dustcap.

It sure looks like he is! I hope he's not using off the shelf um18's... depending on the price of that big sub, he's got less than 425$ in drivers in it if thats the case....

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post #22193 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:26 PM
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No from that picture they definitely look like the UM18-22's.
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post #22194 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:33 PM
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No from that picture they definitely look like the UM18-22's.
ya, it sure does.... someone could build that sub for and power it for a little more than a 1K if they are indeed the um's

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post #22195 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:45 PM
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Of course I haven't even seen the back of the sub but I'm going to guess dual UM18-22's powered by a Speakerpower SP1-2400 amp. Even if you used those exact components it would cost under $2500 to build that sub. Of course Mark needs to make money to stay in business
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post #22196 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 04:58 PM
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Of course I haven't even seen the back of the sub but I'm going to guess dual UM18-22's powered by a Speakerpower SP1-2400 amp. Even if you used those exact components it would cost under $2500 to build that sub. Of course Mark needs to make money to stay in business
but of course! I just like figuring out how much everything would cost me to build! lol. Dayton's Josh on the UM18 thread says the inuke 6000's watts per channel is too much power for the um18's, you could power the subs to full excursion easily with a 6000dsp 1 driver per channel

550$ for drivers
450$ for amp with dsp
200$ for wood and glue

bingo, one heck of a sub..... lol I can't help but dissect a sub I know nothing about except for 1 kinda blurry pic hahahaha. Not that it matters, Seaton makes awesome stuff and the um18 is from all accounts a great driver ( I've got 2 on the way hehe)

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post #22197 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 05:04 PM
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I would find it hard to believe that Mark would use the UM18's for his drivers in a sub to represent Seaton. Matter of fact, I would be shocked! Not that they are bad drivers or anything, just that they are probably not up to Seaton Sound standards. If he did, they most definitely would have to be custom like mentioned already. Doesn't the UM18's need a bigger enclosure than what is in the picture? I mean it is really hard to tell what the dimensions are, but I thought that the UM18 needs a rather large enclosure when going ported?
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post #22198 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 05:06 PM
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but of course! I just like figuring out how much everything would cost me to build! lol. Dayton's Josh on the UM18 thread says the inuke 6000's watts per channel is too much power for the um18's, you could power the subs to full excursion easily with a 6000dsp 1 driver per channel

550$ for drivers
450$ for amp with dsp
200$ for wood and glue

bingo, one heck of a sub..... lol I can't help but dissect a sub I know nothing about except for 1 kinda blurry pic hahahaha. Not that it matters, Seaton makes awesome stuff and the um18 is from all accounts a great driver ( I've got 2 on the way hehe)
Josh came back and said that the inuke 6000 is actually ok for the UM18 if you run one off of each channel. He stated otherwise at first but then came back and said that he read the specs wrong.
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post #22199 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 05:07 PM
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We are just messing around, we have no idea about the sub really lol, It looks like them in the pic, It's very likely if he does have the UM's they are a modded version made only for him..... unless.....

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post #22200 of 30974 Old 08-16-2014, 05:08 PM
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Josh came back and said that the inuke 6000 is actually ok for the UM18 if you run one off of each channel. He stated otherwise at first but then came back and said that he read the specs wrong.
ahh ok, not that that really would have deterred anyone from putting a 6000 to them LOL

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