Official JTR speaker thread - Page 814 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #24391 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
My HSU subs saved by the FUSE...

Apparently, the fuse broke... and replaced it and now my subs are working again.

Question: The OS doesn't seem to have a fuse... is the 'clipping' on the amp acting like a fuse?

BTW: I tested the OS with that EOT clip and apparently at -9 it was still ok. At -8, the clipping light was lighting up towards the end (where the 10hz wave hits).

Now, is this ok? Is a bit of clipping (the orange light lightning up for a little) ok? Or, you must always avoid the singlest orange light?

Oh, another thing.. my OS was literally jumping up and down, moving first forward, then backwards... when i placed my head between the OS and the wall to look at the clip light, the OS nearly crushed me as it came crushing towards the wall...
Here's a good explanation of the LED lights on the Speaker Power amps on the the JTR active subs. Explanation taken from Seaton Sound forum..
http://www.seaton-sound-forum.com/post/connection-setup-guide-submersive-hp-f2-5999706
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post #24392 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 09:36 AM
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...Oh, another thing.. my OS was literally jumping up and down, moving first forward, then backwards... when i placed my head between the OS and the wall to look at the clip light, the OS nearly crushed me as it came crushing towards the wall...
LOL
Sorry, the way you described it...placing your head...was funny...can see it now...'When Subs Turn on their Owners!'

I was moving both of mine yesterday to turn ports toward LP (liked results btw) and it was a chore. Those are 200lb each, so that's one slippery floor you've got or that thing really likes to dance.
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post #24393 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 09:47 AM
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@RMK Having never heard the 215's I can't say for certain what the difference, if any, there will be between these speakers. Although I have a lot of listening time with the CD in the 215, it is a different horn, LF drivers, and crossover. So all bets are off. I have little doubt that it is an outstanding speaker and wouldn't rule out it winning the shootout based on the comments I read regarding it's SQ.

But your comments are potentially telling for me. The difference is that when evaluating the speakers at the GTG's or at home my primary thoughts were just as you describe of the 215, primarily detail, dynamics, and perhaps "musicality"(or how "clinical" they are). The difference with the M2's, and what grabbed my attention as different from all those others, is that my thoughts are dominated by clarity and realness, not those other descriptors.
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post #24394 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by rhed View Post
Here's a good explanation of the LED lights on the Speaker Power amps on the the JTR active subs. Explanation taken from Seaton Sound forum..
http://www.seaton-sound-forum.com/po...-hp-f2-5999706
Thanks. According to Mark, if the Amber is brightly lit, headroom is nearing it's limits. I wonder if this is the same case with the OS.. i believe these are DSP amps and it's up to the designer to set things. For example, Mark may set the Amber light to turn on when headroom is about 3dB to limit and Jeff might set it to 6dB...


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Originally Posted by asoofi1 View Post
LOL
Sorry, the way you described it...placing your head...was funny...can see it now...'When Subs Turn on their Owners!'

I was moving both of mine yesterday to turn ports toward LP (liked results btw) and it was a chore. Those are 200lb each, so that's one slippery floor you've got or that thing really likes to dance.
HAHA... yeah, it scared me for a second. That thing is huge and heavy, and when it's moving towards you to crush your head in, it was almost impossible to move it away.. i had to snatch my head away.. i couldn't stop it marching towards the wall...

and yes, slippery floor i guess.. it's sitting on my solid wood floor..
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post #24395 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 09:55 AM
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@RMK Having never heard the 215's I can't say for certain what the difference, if any, there will be between these speakers. Although I have a lot of listening time with the CD in the 215, it is a different horn, LF drivers, and crossover. So all bets are off. I have little doubt that it is an outstanding speaker and wouldn't rule out it winning the shootout based on the comments I read regarding it's SQ.

But your comments are potentially telling for me. The difference is that when evaluating the speakers at the GTG's or at home my primary thoughts were just as you describe of the 215, primarily detail, dynamics, and perhaps "musicality"(or how "clinical" they are). The difference with the M2's, and what grabbed my attention as different from all those others, is that my thoughts are dominated by clarity and realness, not those other descriptors.
You guys have really good vocabulary...

If i like a speaker, i'll say, 'it's phreakin damn good'... and if i don't like it, i'll say , 'muddled and silly sounding speaker'...
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post #24396 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
Thanks. According to Mark, if the Amber is brightly lit, headroom is nearing it's limits. I wonder if this is the same case with the OS.. i believe these are DSP amps and it's up to the designer to set things. For example, Mark may set the Amber light to turn on when headroom is about 3dB to limit and Jeff might set it to 6dB...




HAHA... yeah, it scared me for a second. That thing is huge and heavy, and when it's moving towards you to crush your head in, it was almost impossible to move it away.. i had to snatch my head away.. i couldn't stop it marching towards the wall...

and yes, slippery floor i guess.. it's sitting on my solid wood floor..
Speaker Power has those indicators regardless of dsp or no dsp. If the amber lights does come on, it is or it's nearing it's limits. So I would treat it at that. Or we end up finding out the hard way..haha. I don't think the dsp programmer has a option when and when not to turn the amber lights on. It's like a safety light that the manufacture put in so that we don't damage our subwoofer.
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post #24397 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:03 AM
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^^^Yeah, but that won't help your post count

If you want to compete with RMK you need to do a lot of writing
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post #24398 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:04 AM
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^^^Yeah, but that won't help your post count

If you want to compete with RMK you need to do a lot of writing
Who gives a ***** about post count.. What are we high schoolers? Lol!
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post #24399 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
You guys have really good vocabulary...

If i like a speaker, i'll say, 'it's phreakin damn good'... and if i don't like it, i'll say , 'muddled and silly sounding speaker'...
Yeah, perhaps a little too much time spent reading Stereophile does that to a person ...
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post #24400 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:06 AM
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Speaker Power has those indicators regardless of dsp or no dsp. If the amber lights does come on, it is or it's nearing it's limits. So I would treat it at that. Or we end up finding out the hard way..haha. I don't think the dsp programmer has a option when and when not to turn the amber lights on. It's like a safety light that the manufacture put in so that we don't damage our subwoofer.
When those lights light up, does it mean nearing the 'amp's power limit', or the woofer's capability/xmax?

If it's nearing the Amp's power, then if the woofer can't take the full force of the amp, wouldn't that mean even if it's green, your woofer could be damaged?

For instance, the US version of the OS's amp is rated 4000 watts with max burst of 8000. The one for overseas is 6000 watts with burst of 12,000.... meaning, if you guys maxes out your amp and the woofer survives, mine might not because the amp has 4000 extra watts during bursts!
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post #24401 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:09 AM
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Who gives a ***** about post count.. What are we high schoolers? Lol!
Ummm, that was a joke, subtle satire.

But thanks for the posting opportunity .
(BTW, ^^that's meant as a funny too )
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post #24402 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:13 AM
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Ummm, that was a joke, subtle satire.

But thanks for the posting opportunity .
(BTW, ^^that's meant as a funny too )
I know it was a joke brotha!! Haha!
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post #24403 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:18 AM
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Cool

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^^^Yeah, but that won't help your post count

If you want to compete with RMK you need to do a lot of writing
Actually, they are all the same post ... just slightly re-arranged each time.

Self plagiarism if you will and mostly nonsensical ...

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post #24404 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post
When those lights light up, does it mean nearing the 'amp's power limit', or the woofer's capability/xmax?

If it's nearing the Amp's power, then if the woofer can't take the full force of the amp, wouldn't that mean even if it's green, your woofer could be damaged?

For instance, the US version of the OS's amp is rated 4000 watts with max burst of 8000. The one for overseas is 6000 watts with burst of 12,000.... meaning, if you guys maxes out your amp and the woofer survives, mine might not because the amp has 4000 extra watts during bursts!
IMO it's the driver.. But then again it takes a lot more to damage the drivers. Say, length of time... Meaning if your were to play a clip, sine wave, or what ever with the clip light fully lit for good amount of time continuously. Then damage will happen. Overheating of the drivers is the enemy to destruction.. So I wouldn't worry to much for only a mere 5 seconds of clip light. You'll probably end up tripping a breaker before damaging the subs.
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post #24405 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:28 AM
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Here's a pretty cool video on subs giving out.. Lol..
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post #24406 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:36 AM
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Actually, they are all the same post ... just slightly re-arranged each time.

Self plagiarism if you will and mostly nonsensical ...
RMK.. " you are my hero!" .. How bout that? You must have heard that one a million times in this thread. But in a re-arrange way. I mean you've went through all the JTR line up first. Gave a review.. Then everyone goes and get some JTR's too.. Lol!
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post #24407 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:43 AM
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Here's a pretty cool video on subs giving out.. Lol..
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IRE7IahmbyQ

You've gotta give props to the MTX sub. Thats insanely impressive it took 120v that long. I've seen lots of guys blow up subs in my car audio days, generally they just hit a bit note and go poof but there are the odd ones that can have completely destroyed surrounds, the cone can be flopping around and it still works lol. I once had a dayton HO 18" that jumped the gap! the VC was stuck on the landing lol I pushed it back in with a screwdriver and that subs is still going to this day! lol
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post #24408 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 10:46 AM
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You've gotta give props to the MTX sub. Thats insanely impressive it took 120v that long. I've seen lots of guys blow up subs in my car audio days, generally they just hit a bit note and go poof but there are the odd ones that can have completely destroyed surrounds, the cone can be flopping around and it still works lol. I once had a dayton HO 18" that jumped the gap! the VC was stuck on the landing lol I pushed it back in with a screwdriver and that subs is still going to this day! lol
I've notice that about the MTX sub in that video. I actually wondered about those subs too back in the car audio days. All I I every was into was Cerwin Vegas and Boston's.
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post #24409 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 11:18 AM
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MTX's were decent enough, along the lines of Kicker, Rockford etc. I had 2 x 12" thunders in a truck I had once. They were good subs. I've always personally been a kicker guy and still am. I can get them for 70% off retail and they perform pretty well. My favotite 2 subs I've had were 2 x round Solo 12's. Way back when they were round. I won 6 dB drags with those 12! Then Mark came onto the scene with Mach 5, I got to know him and used 2 of his SPL 15's and won every event I ever went in. Those subs were insane. Nothing really like it out in their time. I'd show up, do a quick burp, be 6-8 dB's louder than anyone else in the 15" category and be on my way LOL. Lots of fun in those days! Hitting 160dB in a vehicle is quite the experience hahaha

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post #24410 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 11:19 AM
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IMO it's the driver.. But then again it takes a lot more to damage the drivers. Say, length of time... Meaning if your were to play a clip, sine wave, or what ever with the clip light fully lit for good amount of time continuously. Then damage will happen. Overheating of the drivers is the enemy to destruction.. So I wouldn't worry to much for only a mere 5 seconds of clip light. You'll probably end up tripping a breaker before damaging the subs.
The amp does not know the power handling capability of the subwoofer...it has no idea if it is one super woofer or a couple woofers connected. That's why the sub designer has to test the overall sub system with amp to make sure the sub can handle the amp's power, even with artificial sine waves. I've talked to Mark Seaton before and know he punishes subwoofers to ensure they will hold up and he has burnt through more than a few.

By the way, sine waves should be used with caution as they are artificial and put a lot more load on a subwoofer in a specific frequency instead of like most signals, which utilize most of the subwoofer range. Higher sine waves at say 80 Hz are especially dangerous since the subwoofer isn't moving much at 80 Hz and can't cool itself, while at 20 Hz, the sub is at least moving and can dissipate heat.
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post #24411 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 11:20 AM
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I've notice that about the MTX sub in that video. I actually wondered about those subs too back in the car audio days. All I I every was into was Cerwin Vegas and Boston's.
+1. I was into the Boston Acoustics Pro separates and 10" subwoofer. The tweeters were too bright but I loved the sound of that subwoofer.
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post #24412 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 11:31 AM
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In the realm PLIIz or DSX prior to actual Atmos --- has anyone tried height speakers actually overhead?


Here's my question in more detail with pics...
Traditional height speakers directly above or slightly forward of seating area?

----------------------------------------
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post #24413 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 12:07 PM
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The amp does not know the power handling capability of the subwoofer...it has no idea if it is one super woofer or a couple woofers connected. That's why the sub designer has to test the overall sub system with amp to make sure the sub can handle the amp's power, even with artificial sine waves. I've talked to Mark Seaton before and know he punishes subwoofers to ensure they will hold up and he has burnt through more than a few.

By the way, sine waves should be used with caution as they are artificial and put a lot more load on a subwoofer in a specific frequency instead of like most signals, which utilize most of the subwoofer range. Higher sine waves at say 80 Hz are especially dangerous since the subwoofer isn't moving much at 80 Hz and can't cool itself, while at 20 Hz, the sub is at least moving and can dissipate heat.
So your saying it's the amplifier that's reaching it's limits? Well I guess that makes sense. Because it'll cost more to change the amp then the subwoofer if ***** happens right? Well cheaper for most subs anyway..
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post #24414 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 12:29 PM
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MTX's were decent enough, along the lines of Kicker, Rockford etc. I had 2 x 12" thunders in a truck I had once. They were good subs. I've always personally been a kicker guy and still am. I can get them for 70% off retail and they perform pretty well. My favotite 2 subs I've had were 2 x round Solo 12's. Way back when they were round. I won 6 dB drags with those 12! Then Mark came onto the scene with Mach 5, I got to know him and used 2 of his SPL 15's and won every event I ever went in. Those subs were insane. Nothing really like it out in their time. I'd show up, do a quick burp, be 6-8 dB's louder than anyone else in the 15" category and be on my way LOL. Lots of fun in those days! Hitting 160dB in a vehicle is quite the experience hahaha
WTH N8! You have a bass addiction problem. You used to compete in car audio competition too? I used to go. But more to check it out rather then compete.. Lol..
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post #24415 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 01:39 PM
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So your saying it's the amplifier that's reaching it's limits? Well I guess that makes sense. Because it'll cost more to change the amp then the subwoofer if ***** happens right? Well cheaper for most subs anyway..
I'd say the amp is reaching it's limits with the gain structure delivered by your receiver/preamp and amp settings. It might not be the actual limits of the amp/sub but close enough that the system limit is likely being reached. With that said, I think the woofer would blow before a SpeakerPower amp...those are beefy amps and do have some internal protections...but being efficient digital they also don't create lots of heat, which is important for any piece of electronics.
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post #24416 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 01:40 PM
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MTX's were decent enough, along the lines of Kicker, Rockford etc. I had 2 x 12" thunders in a truck I had once. They were good subs. I've always personally been a kicker guy and still am. I can get them for 70% off retail and they perform pretty well. My favotite 2 subs I've had were 2 x round Solo 12's. Way back when they were round. I won 6 dB drags with those 12! Then Mark came onto the scene with Mach 5, I got to know him and used 2 of his SPL 15's and won every event I ever went in. Those subs were insane. Nothing really like it out in their time. I'd show up, do a quick burp, be 6-8 dB's louder than anyone else in the 15" category and be on my way LOL. Lots of fun in those days! Hitting 160dB in a vehicle is quite the experience hahaha

See 142dB at home is not crazy, 160dB in a car is crazy. Transaltion is I am not crazy, you are!! J/K, we are all crazy here!!
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post #24417 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 02:58 PM
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WTH N8! You have a bass addiction problem. You used to compete in car audio competition too? I used to go. But more to check it out rather then compete.. Lol..
Ya I competed for 6 years with 8 different vehicles. Did pretty well because I had lots of friends in the industry. Always had to do ported to win, I was in SPL and SQ. SQ I only won 2 times. It was WAY to expensive at the time for me. My friend Rob used to win all the time, he had a kicker and Orion sponsored vehicles (30K+!!!) and is still a pro installer, had done tons of cool builds.
I'd go to a few in Ontario and Saskatchewan but about 5 hours is as far as I would go. You never won money or anything, a crappy trophy and usually some sort of car audio gear. I'm still running one of the alpine amps I won! lol

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post #24418 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 04:09 PM
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See 142dB at home is not crazy, 160dB in a car is crazy. Transaltion is I am not crazy, you are!! J/K, we are all crazy here!!
I know right? And all the watts and subs to fill in a huge space vs a car. Yet, of same wattage and output in a friggin car? Yea, that's insane..lol
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post #24419 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 04:14 PM
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Ya I competed for 6 years with 8 different vehicles. Did pretty well because I had lots of friends in the industry. Always had to do ported to win, I was in SPL and SQ. SQ I only won 2 times. It was WAY to expensive at the time for me. My friend Rob used to win all the time, he had a kicker and Orion sponsored vehicles (30K+!!!) and is still a pro installer, had done tons of cool builds.
I'd go to a few in Ontario and Saskatchewan but about 5 hours is as far as I would go. You never won money or anything, a crappy trophy and usually some sort of car audio gear. I'm still running one of the alpine amps I won! lol
Ah yes.. Orion.. The amps that's named after a Greek god. I forgot about those. Geez N8, you must've spent some bucks for car audio. I think the most I spent was 6k.lol!
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post #24420 of 37836 Old 10-12-2014, 05:49 PM
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Not really, I had about 3K per vehicle (when I got new rides, I'd move the stereo, build new box etc.). Since I got everything for super cheap, for SPL, you needed a few subs, some big amps and thats pretty much it.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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