GoldenEar Technologies Anticipation Thread - Page 103 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3061 of 3086 Old 03-19-2015, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by LowTech1 View Post
Did you get paid to say that? Put the speakers in the same room set up right and get back to me. Just for the record,I'm going to listen to both pair tomorrow,I highly doubt either pair will blow the other pair out of the water..
If you were only going to scoff at his subjective answer, why did you bother to ask for one?
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post #3062 of 3086 Old 03-19-2015, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by goldenear tech View Post
Actually we used 7000s for our CEDIA Atmos setup and most agreed it was the most natural sounding at the show. We have also used them in many dealer's Atmos systems and they in their customers' with great results. The angle gives you a much more natural spread of sound without hot spots. In terms of the LFE cables with the Tritons, I have gone into this many times here, but you can also find it in Sandy's Set Up Tips on our site. All the Best, Sandy

You messed up the quotes a little bit, but I think I straightened it out and this is what you were saying.


Thank you for the info, it gives me something to save up for. You guys now need a trade up program, so those of us who guy your speakers and then get upgrade-itis and (even though there is no need) want to buy your higher end speakers, you can give us something for our previously purchased ones. Or do something for the dealers to do this sort of thing.

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post #3063 of 3086 Old 03-19-2015, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by LowTech1 View Post
No they don't. It's your ears getting used to the new speaker sound.
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Originally Posted by LowTech1 View Post
It's not bait my friend, its the truth.
They do, as proven by before and after graphs. There are obvious and recordable changes that happen. This does not mean you will hear the changes, but the changes are most certainly there. Easily shown and repeatable (just not on the same speaker, once the initial broken in period is over it is always broken in). Bolding is mine.


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When a newly-minted driver rolls off the assembly line it will typically not measure or otherwise perform as one of its well-broken in siblings does. In large part these differences arise owing to the fact that said driver's spider (often crafted of a varnish-impregnated linen) is not as compliant as it will become once it's broken in properly. Depending on number of mechanical factors relating to its design, construction and materials composition, a net post-burn in compliance increase on the order of 5% - 10% would not be unusual.

Required break in time for the common spider-diaphragm-surround is typically on the order of 10s of seconds and is a one-off proposition, not requiring repetition. Once broken in, the driver should measure/perform as do its siblings, within usual unit-to-unit parameter tolerances.


Quite often, spider break in occurs when the driver is tested, before and/or after placement in the cabinet for which it's intended. Driver testing by signal stimulus at some point (or points) in the manufacturing process - if done at levels sufficient to break in the spider - generally makes further break in unnecessary. Hence, a finished system will not - in so far as its drivers are concerned - require further break in by a consumer once taken home from the dealer.

{lots of calculations and graphs proving everything that is being said}


Taken together, it's clear the volume of air confined within the sealed cabinet of the enclosed box loudspeaker system moderates any measurable and/or audible changes that might arise as a consequence of driver compliance changes.


From the foregoing analyses, it's reasonable to conclude that suspension compliance changes arising as a consequence of initial driver burn in has little effect on the performance of a loudspeaker system.


...driver burn in was a quick process: a sine wave, delivered at the driver's pre-burn in fs and at an amplitude large enough to stretch the driver's suspension, but not so large to cause damage was used. Following initial burn in, suspension compliance would show the usual expected shift, then eventually drift back to and settle at a value something on the order of ~5% to 10% greater than than that measured pre-burn in. In this case, taking the time to burn in drivers was necessary.


In an electrodynamic driver featuring the usual surround-diaphragm-spider construction, driver suspension mechanical compliance plays a key roll in determining the measured value of various driver parameters. All of these parameters will shift as the mechanical compliance of the driver's suspension shifts in value. The bulk of a driver's compliance shift will occur at the time of initial burn in.
Subsequent shifts in compliance are largely temporary in nature. An example of one such mechanism contributing to such temporary shifts is that which arise from the elastic deformation of butadiene-styrene surrounds. Given sufficient time to recover, these changes tend to reverse themselves and the driver returns to its pre-stimulus state.
http://www.audioholics.com/loudspeak...act-or-fiction


So yes, break in DOES change the sound of the speaker. There can be no rational disagreement with this fact. I cannot say which speaker makers break in their speakers and which do not, so there will possibly be some changes at home. Are these changes audible? That is up for debate and further testing...

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post #3064 of 3086 Old 03-19-2015, 12:40 PM
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Ok,if you want to get technical. There is break in..but you can't hear it.. So what's the difference? Its a moot point. It like the guys that buy a new amp and tell you how the sound stage opened up and the difference is like night and day... BS! I've had an amp and I heard absolutely no difference from my receiver. Now,if you have 4 ohm speakers and you listen at ear bleeding levels,yes,it will be worth it to have an amp. A subtle difference,maybe.. A huge difference.. NO!
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post #3065 of 3086 Old 03-19-2015, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowTech1 View Post
Ok,if you want to get technical. There is break in..but you can't hear it.. So what's the difference? Its a moot point. It like the guys that buy a new amp and tell you how the sound stage opened up and the difference is like night and day... BS! I've had an amp and I heard absolutely no difference from my receiver. Now,if you have 4 ohm speakers and you listen at ear bleeding levels,yes,it will be worth it to have an amp. A subtle difference,maybe.. A huge difference.. NO!
Have to disagree with that I had a L/C/R Axiom setup that I had for about 6 months then finally added an Emotiva XPA5 and I could tell instantly the sound was of course louder and the same volume setting but the overall sound was so much cleaner and more defined especially from the center channel. Before the center was kinda muted but with the addition of the amp that changed the dialogue was cleaner.

Mitsubishi WD-92840
Yamaha CX-A5000 + Emotiva XPA-5
Paradigm 100's v5 + CC-690 + Axiom QS8's
HSU VTF-3 MK4 Subwoofer
Oppo BDP-103 + Sony BDP-CX960
http://www.invelos.com/dvdcollection.aspx/Rustolamite
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post #3066 of 3086 Old 03-19-2015, 01:37 PM
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I think those are 4 ohm speakers. They would benefit from an amp like any 4 ohm speaker and that's why the center channel sounds better also. I just checked out your Yammy 5000.. There is no reason that thing should have a problem with those speakers.. That receiver is a beast..
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post #3067 of 3086 Old 03-19-2015, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LowTech1 View Post
I think those are 4 ohm speakers. They would benefit from an amp like any 4 ohm speaker and that's why the center channel sounds better also. I just checked out your Yammy 5000.. There is no reason that thing should have a problem with those speakers.. That receiver is a beast..
Actually back then i was using a Yamaha RX-A3000 pretty close to my current A5000.

Mitsubishi WD-92840
Yamaha CX-A5000 + Emotiva XPA-5
Paradigm 100's v5 + CC-690 + Axiom QS8's
HSU VTF-3 MK4 Subwoofer
Oppo BDP-103 + Sony BDP-CX960
http://www.invelos.com/dvdcollection.aspx/Rustolamite
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post #3068 of 3086 Old 03-19-2015, 02:23 PM
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Still an amp should have that much of an impact on the center channel. My onk 818 drives my Martin Logan EM C2 center channel which is 4 ohm really well and my receiver is less powerful than yours. I also had an Emo X3 driving my front 3 for 2 years. I heard absolutely nothing different when I took it out of the chain. So I sold it and never looked back.
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post #3069 of 3086 Old 03-19-2015, 06:43 PM
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[QUOTE=goldenear tech;32703545][Hi, It is not clear from your post if this is for home theater or 2 channel stereo. If for home theater, I am guessing that you don't have a center channel. The real purpose of a center channel is to anchor the dialogue in the center for listeners off center. In terms of toe-in, I like the speakers toe'd in pointed directly at the center of the listening position. All the Best, Sandy

Thanks Sandy. I have a 7.2 (soon to be 7.2.4) set up with T1s, SCXL, SS50s, and waiting to install HTR7000 for height.

My main question was around the proper toe in guidance bearing in mind that I do not have a single MLP due to the love seat configuration of our theater seating.

I "think" you answered my question stating that you prefer the mains toed in directly at the center point even if listeners will not be seated in that exact spot. Could you confirm?

Thanks again, really love the speakers so far, just want to get the most out of them I can.
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post #3070 of 3086 Old 03-21-2015, 10:12 PM
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Curious if Triton One owners are using a separate sub for the LFE channel. For music, it would seem like the Triton One's have more than enough bass. However, for movies do they go low enough and have enough output to eliminate the need for a separate subwoofer? I haven't seen any reviews where they discuss the -3 dB cutoff or the output for frequencies between 20 Hz and 40 Hz. Does having stereo subs (if you use the LFE inputs on the Triton One's) provide greater benefit than the additional output a separate sub may provide?
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post #3071 of 3086 Old 03-23-2015, 02:14 PM
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Alrighty guys--I've got the Triton Two's and SuperCenter XL up front. I don't have rear speakers yet but I'm feeling the bug. Natural choice would be the SuperStats but there's also the Invisa's. I don't plan to go full 7 channel--just looking to add two speakers as surrounds. Which way would you go? I don't care too much about how the Invisa's are in wall/ceiling so they "disappear"...if I cared about seeing speakers I probably wouldn't have gone with the Triton Two's Any inclinations one way or the other?
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post #3072 of 3086 Old 03-23-2015, 02:17 PM
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The way my SS 3s fit in with my Triton 1s is VERY impressive. Much better than the "matched" VR rear speakers of my last Boston Acoustic rig, and they're at least 1/3rd the size.

My rears are nearly directly above my sitting position, so they really don't have to be very big to be effective. If your room is bigger or the speakers are mounted far away, might be worth it to go to the 50s. IMO anything larger would be overkill. But again just IMO.
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post #3073 of 3086 Old 03-23-2015, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by sx460 View Post
Alrighty guys--I've got the Triton Two's and SuperCenter XL up front. I don't have rear speakers yet but I'm feeling the bug. Natural choice would be the SuperStats but there's also the Invisa's. I don't plan to go full 7 channel--just looking to add two speakers as surrounds. Which way would you go? I don't care too much about how the Invisa's are in wall/ceiling so they "disappear"...if I cared about seeing speakers I probably wouldn't have gone with the Triton Two's Any inclinations one way or the other?
Would you consider the Aons? A little more mid range and bass than the SS3's. Or a Triton 7 if room permits.

I love the Tritons look as i have the 2's as well. They look industrial and futuristic to me. Besides function over form is better anyway.
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post #3074 of 3086 Old 03-23-2015, 02:58 PM
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Would you consider the Aons? A little more mid range and bass than the SS3's. Or a Triton 7 if room permits.

I love the Tritons look as i have the 2's as well. They look industrial and futuristic to me. Besides function over form is better anyway.
Great question... I would. I had thought about going that route possibly. My biggest concern would be how to "mount them"...is it possible or do they require some kind of shelf?
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post #3075 of 3086 Old 03-23-2015, 03:19 PM
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Great question... I would. I had thought about going that route possibly. My biggest concern would be how to "mount them"...is it possible or do they require some kind of shelf?
Yes you can mount them on the wall.

There is a screw bracket on the back of them.

It is on page 9 of the manual.

http://www.goldenear.com/images/manuals/Aon_Manual.pdf

Hope this helps.
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Yes you can mount them on the wall.

There is a screw bracket on the back of them.

It is on page 9 of the manual.

http://www.goldenear.com/images/manuals/Aon_Manual.pdf

Hope this helps.
I use the ss50s for rears with my Triton 2'sand super center xl. And they sound great!
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Curious if Triton One owners are using a separate sub for the LFE channel. For music, it would seem like the Triton One's have more than enough bass. However, for movies do they go low enough and have enough output to eliminate the need for a separate subwoofer? I haven't seen any reviews where they discuss the -3 dB cutoff or the output for frequencies between 20 Hz and 40 Hz. Does having stereo subs (if you use the LFE inputs on the Triton One's) provide greater benefit than the additional output a separate sub may provide?
I have the Ones and use a seperate sub along with the subs in the Ones for movies. I do this to even out the bass response in my room. If I remeber correctly there was a review of the Ones where the reviewer said the bass produced from the Ones rivals that of a stand alone sub.
I don't use the seperate sub for 2 channel music though as I think the ones go plenty deep and are beautifully integrated to the rest of the speaker.
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post #3078 of 3086 Old 03-23-2015, 06:21 PM
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Great question... I would. I had thought about going that route possibly. My biggest concern would be how to "mount them"...is it possible or do they require some kind of shelf?
I have the Aon 2s as surrounds and love them. I think it's important to have surrounds go descently low unless you can put a sub back there, of course they won't go as low as a sub but it's good enough for now.

I have them mounted on the wall and just an heads up that if you do mount them on the wall to put something soft behind them as mine got a little scuffed up plus they are deep speakers so they stick out a lot and may look a bit odd.
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post #3079 of 3086 Old 03-26-2015, 09:46 AM
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I have the Aon 2s as surrounds and love them. I think it's important to have surrounds go descently low unless you can put a sub back there, of course they won't go as low as a sub but it's good enough for now.

I have them mounted on the wall and just an heads up that if you do mount them on the wall to put something soft behind them as mine got a little scuffed up plus they are deep speakers so they stick out a lot and may look a bit odd.
I wholeheartedly agree with Ronin.

I think more and more surround mixes (in movies, especially) are being used for more than just 'effects' where a high crossover speaker, like the SuperSats, functioned well. More full-range information is being sent to the various surround channels that I think necessitate at least a bookshelf sized speaker with a more recommend crossover (generally, 80hz by THX, Dolby, etc.)

If gaming is at all a concern, this becomes even more vital, as important dialogue information (usually reserved for the center channel) may be played by ANY of the speakers as the player moves around. It may sound weird or thin to hear part of the vocal range coming from your surround speaker behind you and the other part of the vocal range being crossed over to your Tritons/subs in-front of you.

But, like Ronin mentioned, this can be mitigated if you place a subwoofer behind you to handle that crossover which can help keep that nice, lifestyle friendly, svelte look of the SuperSats.
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post #3080 of 3086 Old 03-26-2015, 04:11 PM
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I have the Ones and use a seperate sub along with the subs in the Ones for movies. I do this to even out the bass response in my room. If I remeber correctly there was a review of the Ones where the reviewer said the bass produced from the Ones rivals that of a stand alone sub.
I don't use the seperate sub for 2 channel music though as I think the ones go plenty deep and are beautifully integrated to the rest of the speaker.
I feel the same with my T2's. Although i would love a pair of T1's.

I have a PSA XS30 in the rear. My sound is smooth and has little audible null.
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I had some friends over for a movie. The last movie they watched was with my Paradigm speakers and this one was with the GoldenEar Triton 7s and SuperSat 60C. They said the movie sounded so much better with the new ones, they truly felt more immersed and more like they were at the real theater than ever before.
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I have to say, the more I listen to the SuperSat 60C as my center, the more I like it. I would have gone with the SuperCenter XL but I had no way to mount it and not have it look completely stupid. The thing is just so W-I-D-E!!!


Anyway, for anyone who cannot use the SuperCenter XL as their center, know the SuperSat 60C is a good alternative.

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I've got a 60c as a center for my Triton 1s, and I'm quite happy with it.
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I've got a 60c as a center for my Triton 1s, and I'm quite happy with it.
dscottj, What other speakers did you compare to the Triton 1s, and what did they replace in your system? What type of amplification are you using, low powered finesse or powerful SS ones?

Kemper Holt
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My dealer's demo room was rather primitive, so I wasn't able to compare the Tritons to any other new speakers. That said, the dealer claimed it would be hard to get an apples-to-apples demo because he didn't stock a speaker that had the same specs at anywhere near the same price point. I took him at his word.

They replaced a Boston Acoustics rig anchored by VR3 towers. As I recall, they were BA's top-of-the-line speaker circa 2005. When I was shopping back then I let my wife get in a vote. Not being a complete maniac like me, she chose the brightest speaker on hand. I spent at least five years trying to tame them. Ultimately, I never really fixed them. I'm certain my hearing aged out.

As far as amplification goes, I'm not very impressive. I've always been a Pioneer guy (as much from nostalgia as anything else), and so they're being driven by an SC-89. It turns a very small signal into a very big signal well enough for me.

If I were spending "my own money" I'd still save up and buy the Tritions. I think they're just that good. I'd probably climb down a few ladder rungs and pick up the SC-85 or -87. If I were in the market for a new 4k TV, I'd likely be waiting for this years' Elites, because they'll get that HDCP-OCD-8675309.2.2 standard all you kids are going on about.

As it stands, I got a very modest inheritance around this time last year and went a little crazy with it. I'm very happy with my purchases.

Enjoy yours.
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Anyone using the Triton 1's or 2's for music in a very large room, high ceilings? I have a 45 x 50 room with 30 foot sloped ceilings and thinking about the 1 or 2's but dealer wants $150 to demo if I don't buy. ouch.
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