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post #1 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 11:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi,

I just got a Mitsubishi WD-73C9 (73") and I'm looking to get a matching HTIB. I have a few questions:

1) I have a fairly big room (17'x12'), so I'd like to get a 7.1 speaker setup - would this be the right choice?

2) I'm interested in the Onkyo HT-S5300 - is this a good choice for someone new to this sort of thing?

3) I'm going to mount the center, side, and back speakers on the wall or ceiling - would the Sanus Systems Wms5-b be a good choice?

Thanks!!

Edit: not interested in an HTIB anymore, going to get everything separate, look below.
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post #2 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 11:24 AM
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This would be better to post in the HTIB forum. This forum is more for people who purchase separate speakers and not a all in one box. Most on here would think that a HTIB is totally worthless, they are not upgradable, they have a very small sound and lack in bass. So if you would be interested in pieceing together your system this is the place but if you want a all in one no matter what they can help on the HTIB forum.
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post #3 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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OK, I made a thread in the HTIB forum, can a mod please delete this one?

Edit: nvm, don't delete it.
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post #4 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtpsuper24 View Post

This would be better to post in the HTIB forum. This forum is more for people who purchase separate speakers and not a all in one box. Most on here would think that a HTIB is totally worthless, they are not upgradable, they have a very small sound and lack in bass. So if you would be interested in pieceing together your system this is the place but if you want a all in one no matter what they can help on the HTIB forum.

I recently upgraded from a HTIB. I wasted money by not purchasing separate components up front. I outgrew the HTIB very fast and it was a waste of money and time in hindsight.

I'd suggest getting something like the Denon 591 with BA speakers (I think its BA), if you want a HTIB. Definitely don't buy a HTIB with a proprietary recevier/DVD/Blu-ray player. You will be locked into that. I did that with a Sony HTIB and 2 years later I replaced it.
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post #5 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 03:48 PM
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I know some are not big on sound and he might be happy with the Onkyo for many years to come, but there are some that ask for advice on a cheap sub like a Polk and say they just have to have a 100 dollar sub and a few months later there back on here saying "help I need to get bass from my cheap junkie sub what can I do" after everyone told them to save up and buy nice quality equipment that they will be more happy with in the long run. Sorry for the rant LOL, I know some can't afford thing especially in this economy but its just kinda a DUH moment. When you see those posts.
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post #6 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 04:52 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, I changed my mind after thinking about it for a few hours. The main issue wasn't the price, it's that I wanted to get it done in the next 2 weeks, but I changed my mind - I think I'll buy everything separately after all, even if it takes more time.

Can someone point me in the right direction in terms of information to get started? It looks like this is going to take quite a bit of reading/researching, and I didn't see a sticky for that sort of thing.

A few other things I should mention:

1) I'm not interested in Blu-ray at all, so that's not relevant to me.

2) I have a Linux HTPC that right now doesn't have a TV tuner, but I might be getting a Hauppage HD-PVR for later. Compatibility with this PC is essential.
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post #7 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 05:50 PM
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Well first off the receiver is the main piece. You need to find one that has all the options or bells and whistles you'll need. Take a look at Crutchfield and read up on receivers. Don't over spend on a receiver and then buy cheap speakers, for example if you total budget is say 1500 only about 350 or so is for the receiver use the rest for the speakers. So you have no interest in watching blu rays or just not budgeting bluray player into this? And if your totally not interested in blu rays at all thats a nice TV you have for not wanting HD movies. When your buying seperate componets the receivers don't include blu rays you just go buy a stand alone blu ray player.
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post #8 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 05:54 PM
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Recommended receiver brands: Onkyo, Denon, Marantz, Harmon Kardon, Yamaha, Sony ES only, NAD

Speaker brands that are well received: Axiom, Aperion, Ascend Acoustics, Elemental Designs, Salk, Klipsch, Energy, HSU, SVS, Bower and Wilkins, Monitor Audio, Paradigm, PSB, Polk, Infinity, Emotiva.
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post #9 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gtpsuper24 View Post

So you have no interest in watching blu rays or just not budgeting bluray player into this? And if your totally not interested in blu rays at all thats a nice TV you have for not wanting HD movies.

I'll be playing HD movies from my HTPC, so I don't need a Bluray player.

Anyway, starting with the receiver - how's the Onkyo TX-SR608? A review on Amazon says that
Quote:


Unlike a lot of CEs, Onkyo may have indavertantly cannibalized its own model lineup by pushing so much featureset into an entry level receiver that it might deter buyers from their higher end models.

Is that an accurate assessment?

Also, when I'm buying speakers, should I try to get the same brand for all of them, or is that not important? As in, should I buy a sub separately, and then the front speakers separately, and so on?
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post #10 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CQN View Post

I'll be playing HD movies from my HTPC, so I don't need a Bluray player.

Anyway, starting with the receiver - how's the Onkyo TX-SR608? A review on Amazon says that

Is that an accurate assessment?

Also, when I'm buying speakers, should I try to get the same brand for all of them, or is that not important? As in, should I buy a sub separately, and then the front speakers separately, and so on?

Does your HTPC transmit HD audio soundtracks like Dolby TrueHD or DTS-MA?
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post #11 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 10:20 PM
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Quote:


Also, when I'm buying speakers, should I try to get the same brand for all of them, or is that not important? As in, should I buy a sub separately, and then the front speakers separately, and so on?

You should definitely get the same brand for your front 3 speakers. matching surrounds would be nice too if possible. Sub can be completely different brand as some the best subs are made by dedicated subwoofer companies.

I would buy the front speakers before the sub. Having a sub and no other speakers wont do you much good. You can get two front speakers, then a sub and then the center if you wish.

Afro GT
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post #12 of 59 Old 08-23-2010, 10:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by crazyrob425 View Post

Does your HTPC transmit HD audio soundtracks like Dolby TrueHD or DTS-MA?

My graphics card's specifications say that it has an "Integrated HD audio controller with up to 2 channel 48 KHz stereo or multi-channel (7.1) AC3 enabling a plug-and-play cable-less audio solution". I use its HDMI output connection to hook it up to my current (different) TV, but it only has the built-in audio. It's an ATI Radeon HD 4350.

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You should definitely get the same brand for your front 3 speakers. matching surrounds would be nice too if possible. Sub can be completely different brand as some the best subs are made by dedicated subwoofer companies.

I would buy the front speakers before the sub. Having a sub and no other speakers wont do you much good. You can get two front speakers, then a sub and then the center if you wish.

OK, this sounds good. If it's not important to get surrounds of the same brand, then I'll buy them separately. I'll start off getting the fronts, center, and sub. I'd like more flexibility in getting the surrounds so that I can get something that will fit in with the room in terms of space.

I heard that the surrounds should be at ear height and that the middle ones should be behind where you're sitting - is that correct? If so, I'll have to get something small so that I can mount it on the wall at ear height without it protruding too much into the room.
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post #13 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 07:44 AM
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go to newegg...they have polk speakers and nice recievers for a good price...also they'll get delivered in a few days
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post #14 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by CQN View Post

My graphics card's specifications say that it has an "Integrated HD audio controller with up to 2 channel 48 KHz stereo or multi-channel (7.1) AC3 enabling a plug-and-play cable-less audio solution". I use its HDMI output connection to hook it up to my current (different) TV, but it only has the built-in audio. It's an ATI Radeon HD 4350.

OK, this sounds good. If it's not important to get surrounds of the same brand, then I'll buy them separately. I'll start off getting the fronts, center, and sub. I'd like more flexibility in getting the surrounds so that I can get something that will fit in with the room in terms of space.

I heard that the surrounds should be at ear height and that the middle ones should be behind where you're sitting - is that correct? If so, I'll have to get something small so that I can mount it on the wall at ear height without it protruding too much into the room.

the 4350 does not have the newest audio formats such as Dolby TrueHD or DTS-MA, if you don't mind spending like 60 bucks and getting a 5400's ... those can do it
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post #15 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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go to newegg...they have polk speakers and nice recievers for a good price...also they'll get delivered in a few days

OK, thanks, I'll be sure to check them out.

Edit: OK, I'm leaning towards the Onkyo TX-SR508 as it's $100+ cheaper than the TX-SR608 - is it a good choice?

Edit 2: And it's even cheaper on Amazon.

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the 4350 does not have the newest audio formats such as Dolby TrueHD or DTS-MA, if you don't mind spending like 60 bucks and getting a 5400's ... those can do it

I was planning on building a new HTPC anyway since the one I'm using right now is just an old OEM PC that I repurposed by throwing the 4350 in it. Would this guide be the best source of info for doing that?

How's this PowerColor Go! Green AX5450? Am I going to be missing out on anything important if I don't have full support for MPEG-2 or VA deinterlacing or any support for MPEG-4 MVC or HDMI 1.4a, as the guide linked above says is the case for the Radeon 5450's?
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post #16 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CQN View Post

Anyway, starting with the receiver - how's the Onkyo TX-SR608?

The 608 is a good little receiver but the receiver should not be the 1st thing that you buy. The first thing that you choose is your speakers. Once you have your speakers picked out then and only then do you start receiver shopping. You'll base your receiver purchase on the speaker's requirements and a list of features that you want. For example while the 608 is a fine little receiver it won't drive 4ohm speakers. Wait on the receiver until you've selected the speakers.

Quote:


Also, when I'm buying speakers, should I try to get the same brand for all of them, or is that not important? As in, should I buy a sub separately, and then the front speakers separately, and so on?

The most important to match are the left-front, center, and right-front (aka LCR). Those need to be from the same brand and product line so that the transition from "L" to "C" to "R" and back is absolutely seamless. A timbre match with the surrounds is nice but far-far less critical.

Another thing to keep in mind is the frequency response of the speakers. You'll want to choose speakers that extend down to at least 80hz. That's the point where the source of the sound becomes harder to identify. Above that point the transition between speaker and sub and back becomes the audio equivalent of watching a ping pong match. At or below 80hz the transition becomes far less noticeable, and if you have the speakers and sub properly balanced then the transition back and forth will be transparent even if the sub is placed behind you.

But there is no need to match the brand of sub with the speaker brand. In fact I recommend against buying mass market brand subwoofer. You'll get far-far-far better bang for the buck buying your sub from an internet direct subwoofer specialist. For a subwoofer to do its job well you'll need to size it to the cubic footage of the room. That includes any spaces that are open to the room. I'd contact (listed alphabetically) Elemental Designs, Epik, Hsu Research, and SVSound and have have each size a subwoofer to the room. All are honest and in my experience none of them will try to over sell you. If they have two recommendations I tend to go a step up. It's a lot easier to turn a large sub down than it is to turn a small sup up past 100%.

Without a budget it's hard to recommend specific speakers. Especially since speakers are very subjective. However I'll toss out some budget ideas. If you don't mind tower speakers then Infinity's Primus P362 towers and timbre matched PC350 center are very good for their price. These are rumored to be discontinued but can still be found for between $150-220ea for the 3 fronts. A good match for surrounds would be their P152 bookshelves ($150/pr). If you can't afford the whole thing in one bite then start with the front 3 and a sub and then add surrounds later.

Another popular cheaper but less attractive option would be 3 Behringer B2030P bookshelf studio monitors ($55-75ea shipped) as the 3 fronts. The downside is the homely industrial grill-less look. They were meant for recording studios - not homes. The upside is they're about the best sounding bang for the buck going. You can use two more as surrounds or use a pair of Wharfedale WH-2 bipolar surround speakers ($80/pr) as the surrounds.

Of course if you have a larger budget then the sky is the limit.
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post #17 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 10:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sholling View Post

Wait on the receiver until you've selected the speakers.

OK, I think what I'll do is start off buying the LCR speakers, then the receiver, then get a sub, then the surrounds.

Quote:


But there is no need to match the brand of sub with the speaker brand. In fact I recommend against buying mass market brand subwoofer. You'll get far-far-far better bang for the buck buying your sub from an internet direct subwoofer specialist. For a subwoofer to do its job well you'll need to size it to the cubic footage of the room. That includes any spaces that are open to the room. I'd contact (listed alphabetically) Elemental Designs, Epik, Hsu Research, and SVSound and have have each size a subwoofer to the room. All are honest and in my experience none of them will try to over sell you. If they have two recommendations I tend to go a step up. It's a lot easier to turn a large sub down than it is to turn a small sup up past 100%.

OK, this sounds like a bit of work, so I'll put it off until I've already got the LCR speakers.

Quote:


Another popular cheaper but less attractive option would be 3 Behringer B2030P bookshelf studio monitors ($55-75ea shipped) as the 3 fronts. The downside is the homely industrial grill-less look. They were meant for recording studios - not homes. The upside is they're about the best sounding bang for the buck going.

This seems like the best option. I definitely don't want to pay $150/speaker, and I don't mind the appearance at all. That they sound good is all that matters. However, I will have to place them on some kind of stand, since putting them on the floor would sound bad, right?

This seems to be a good deal, since Prime shipping is available on them.

However, I don't think a B2030P would look good as a center speaker because of its form factor. Is there something that's wider than it's tall that would timbre match with the B2030Ps as side speakers?

Quote:


You can use two more as surrounds or use a pair of Wharfedale WH-2 bipolar surround speakers ($80/pr) as the surrounds.

These look nice, but I'll look over this again after I've got the other stuff. One problem might be that the black ones aren't available for some reason.
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post #18 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 10:47 AM
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+1 for what Sholling said. Although I always recommended getting the receiver first to get the cheapest one you can get with all the options you need. You really shouldn't be looking at 4ohm speakers anyway espcially if you want to power them with a receiver. If you are even looking at 4ohm speakers you should budget in separate amps, IMO. I would stay away from the Behinger speaker for HT they make good computer speakers, but there is much much better more reliable options out there than those. IMO its better to go with bookshelf speakers and use the money that you saved and add that to the subwoofer budget. But the Infinity P362s are a great deal and are around the same price as a good set of bookshelfs.
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post #19 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 10:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gtpsuper24 View Post

Although I always recommended getting the receiver first to get the cheapest one you can get with all the options you need.

I think I'll try to decide on the receiver before buying the LCR speakers.

Quote:


You really shouldn't be looking at 4ohm speakers anyway espcially if you want to power them with a receiver. If you are even looking at 4ohm speakers you should budget in separate amps, IMO.

In that case I'll try to go with 8 ohm speakers, like the Infinity ones sholling suggested.

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Originally Posted by gtpsuper24 View Post

I would stay away from the Behinger speaker for HT they make good computer speakers, but there is much much better more reliable options out there than those. IMO its better to go with bookshelf speakers and use the money that you saved and add that to the subwoofer budget. But the Infinity P362s are a great deal and are around the same price as a good set of bookshelfs.

Hmm, if that's the case, I might just go with them and buy the surrounds later, since it'll be better in the long run.
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post #20 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by CQN View Post

OK, I think what I'll do is start off buying the LCR speakers, then the receiver, then get a sub, then the surrounds.

Once you pick the LCRs you can pick the sub and receiver. You just have to decide on the LCRs first so you know what you need in a receiver.

Quote:


OK, this sounds like a bit of work, so I'll put it off until I've already got the LCR speakers.

It's not that bad. Measuring the room and attached spaces will take a whole 10 minutes. Calculating the cubic footage (LxWxH) will take seconds. Stick them in emails (or call) and you'll have an answer in a day or less. All of the companies are friendly no-pressure sub builders. Just bear in mind that eD doesn't maintain inventory. If you need it fast then SVS and Hsu are your choices.

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This seems like the best option. I definitely don't want to pay $150/speaker, and I don't mind the appearance at all. That they sound good is all that matters. However, I will have to place them on some kind of stand, since putting them on the floor would sound bad, right?

You want the L&R tweeters at ear height. The center can be angled up or down to point at ear height. If you just want something cheap Walmart (B&M only) sells some decent looking wood bar stools for $21ea. If the height is right for you they make decent stands. You'll also want some sort of feet to isolate the speakers from the stands. A set of these cheapies per speaker work well enough.

Quote:


This seems to be a good deal, since Prime shipping is available on them.

Prices bounce all over the place with these. The nice thing with Amazon is if you don't like them then returns are easy. I'd start with a pair and see how you like the sound. Just don't expect deep bass without a sub.

Quote:


However, I don't think a B2030P would look good as a center speaker because of its form factor. Is there something that's wider than it's tall that would timbre match with the B2030Ps as side speakers?

They don't make a center and finding a timbre match would be tough. Some people just live with one upright, others flip one on its side. Upright is better. Remember these were intended for recording studios on a budget. BTW you'll find a ton of reviews out on the web.
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post #21 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Hmm, if there's no way to get a matching center, maybe I should just go with the Infinity's, since adding on the bar stools and the feet, it's going to be $100/ with the B2030Ps. Is the setup going to sound acceptable with just LCRs and a sub or will it feel like something's "missing" if I don't have the surrounds? I'm leaning towards just staggering the purchases so that I can buy the Infinity's even though they're more expensive.

Are there any other similar options for tower-style speakers?

Quote:


Measuring the room and attached spaces

What do you mean by "attached spaces"? The back of the room is completely open to the entryway for the house. On the other side of the entryway is another room that is also completely open. How do I take that into account?
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post #22 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CQN View Post

I heard that the surrounds should be at ear height and that the middle ones should be behind where you're sitting - is that correct? If so, I'll have to get something small so that I can mount it on the wall at ear height without it protruding too much into the room.

For future reference: Emotiva ERD-1 surrounds are only 4.25" in depth, making them much easier to mount on walls without getting in the way. I searched far and wide for a solution that doesn't stick out very far from the wall, and the ERD-1's are the most shallow I found. They're also affordable ($350/pair), and stack up very well against other surrounds -- even against many that are much more expensive! (Also note that the ERD-1's are 4 ohm speakers, so cheaper/lesser receivers may require an external amp to power them).

The key to your system will be the quality of the front three (L/C/R) and the subwoofer; so, take your time and make the right decisions there.

Do you have any idea at all what your max budget might be for the L/C/R/SW and AVR? It might be easier to provide specific suggestions if we know what $$ we're working with... otherwise, the suggestions here are really going to be all over the map!
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post #23 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CQN View Post

Hmm, if there's no way to get a matching center, maybe I should just go with the Infinity's, since adding on the bar stools and the feet, it's going to be $100/ with the B2030Ps. Is the setup going to sound acceptable with just LCRs and a sub or will it feel like something's "missing" if I don't have the surrounds? I'm leaning towards just staggering the purchases so that I can buy the Infinity's even though they're more expensive.

I always recommend putting as much as possible into the LCRs and sub and putting off the surrounds when money is tight. You can always go back and add surrounds later.

Quote:


Are there any other similar options for tower-style speakers?

Yes Polk Monitor 70 but in my opinion the Infinities are much better speakers.

Quote:


What do you mean by "attached spaces"? The back of the room is completely open to the entryway for the house. On the other side of the entryway is another room that is also completely open. How do I take that into account?

Measure them and add them to the room size. Here's why: Subwoofers give that visceral deep bass feeling by ever so slightly altering the air pressure in the room. Any open spaces attached to the room dilute that pressure. The larger the space the sub(s) have to pressurize the more air it has to move and the more/larger the driver(s) required. That's why a subwoofer is almost useless outside. In a pinch you can get away with less than optimal sized subs by being almost on top of them. Like using them for end tables. Or you can start with a medium sized sub now and add a second or third later.
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post #24 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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The Emotiva ERD-1 looks good (but a little pricy), but I might have to get a different set of surrounds for the back, because I want something I can put in a corner. Like I said above, the back of the room is completely open to the entryway, so I'll probably have to put the back surrounds at the back corners of the room (also, protrusion is not as much of a problem at the back). Would it be better to do that or put them on the ceiling pointing down closer to the center and each other? I heard that they shouldn't be very far apart - is that more important than having them at ear height?

One of the reasons it's a good idea for me to hold off on the surrounds is that this room is being painted and the floor refinished, and then new furniture is moving in, so I'm not sure how everything will be arranged or how it will look/how much space will be taken up. The setup at the front of the room is pretty clear, but I'll have to see what the furniture looks like in place before I'll know exactly how big the surrounds can be and how much they can stick out.

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Do you have any idea at all what your max budget might be for the L/C/R/SW and AVR?

I don't want to go over $300 for the AVR if I'm going to be getting more expensive speakers. Something in the price range of the Onkyo TX-SR508 looks good to me.

As for the LCRs, I'd say no more than the price of the Infinity's suggested above ($165/ for the L and R, and $200 for the C), but even those are a little pricy.

I have no idea about the sub, since I haven't looked at independent subs at all yet.

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Originally Posted by sholling View Post

I always recommend putting as much as possible into the LCRs and sub and putting off the surrounds when money is tight. You can always go back and add surrounds later.

OK, that sounds like the best option.

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Originally Posted by sholling View Post

Yes Polk Monitor 70 but in my opinion the Infinities are much better speakers.

In that case I'll stick to the Infinity's. The Polk Monitor 70's seem to be more expensive anyway.


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Originally Posted by sholling View Post

Measure them and add them to the room size. Here's why: Subwoofers give that visceral deep bass feeling by ever so slightly altering the air pressure in the room. Any open spaces attached to the room dilute that pressure. The larger the space the sub(s) have to pressurize the more air it has to move and the more/larger the driver(s) required. That's why a subwoofer is almost useless outside. In a pinch you can get away with less than optimal sized subs by being almost on top of them. Like using them for end tables. Or you can start with a medium sized sub now and add a second or third later.

OK, if this is the case, I'm going to need a pretty big subwoofer. The room with the TV is 17'x12', then the entryway is 3'x12', and the other room is probably about 12'x12'.

I think in this case, the best thing to do is to buy a medium sized sub and add a second one later. That will allow me to lower the costs right now and in the end, I'll have a symmetrical setup.
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post #25 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by palehorse View Post

For future reference: Emotiva ERD-1 surrounds are only 4.25" in depth, making them much easier to mount on walls without getting in the way. I searched far and wide for a solution that doesn't stick out very far from the wall, and the ERD-1's are the most shallow I found. They're also affordable ($350/pair), and stack up very well against other surrounds -- even against many that are much more expensive! (Also note that the ERD-1's are 4 ohm speakers, so cheaper/lesser receivers may require an external amp to power them).

This is key. A low cost receiver would have a tough time with the ERDs. A step down in quality but plenty good enough for most people using entry level gear are Wharfedale WH-2 surrounds. They may not be the best bipolar surrounds in the world but they are likely the best for $80/pr. I had no trouble driving them with an old Onkyo TX-SR606. The WH-2s would be a good choice for the OP.

Note to OP: Palehorse's suggestion to use bipolar surrounds is a good one. They give a diffused theater like sound. In general bipolar surrounds are placed to your left and right and about 2 feet above the ear. In contrast monopole (ie Infinity P152 or Behringer B2030P) surrounds should be to your left and right at ear level.

Edit: Generally you place your first set of surround speakers (5.1 system) to your left and right, but they can be up to a 45 degree angle behind. The side surrounds can be monopole and bipolar based on personal taste. It's when you get into 7.1 that you have rear surrounds and those are generally monopoles.
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post #26 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 12:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Do you know of any sites where I can get the Wharfedale WH-2's in black? Amazon seems to be out, and no other sites seem to have it.

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Generally you place your first set of surround speakers (5.1 system) to your left and right, but they can be up to a 45 degree angle behind. The side surrounds can be monopole and bipolar based on personal taste. It's when you get into 7.1 that you have rear surrounds and those are generally monopoles.

So I wouldn't use the Wharfedale's as my rear surrounds - I'd have to get a different set, right?
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post #27 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sholling View Post

This is key. A low cost receiver would have a tough time with the ERDs. A step down in quality but plenty good enough for most people using entry level gear are Wharfedale WH-2 surrounds. They may not be the best bipolar surrounds in the world but they are likely the best for $80/pr. I had no trouble driving them with an old Onkyo TX-SR606. The WH-2s would be a good choice for the OP.

Note to OP: Palehorse's suggestion to use bipolar surrounds is a good one. They give a diffused theater like sound. In general bipolar surrounds are placed to your left and right and about 2 feet above the ear. In contrast monopole (ie Infinity P152 or Behringer B2030P) surrounds should be to your left and right at ear level.

Edit: Generally you place your first set of surround speakers (5.1 system) to your left and right, but they can be up to a 45 degree angle behind. The side surrounds can be monopole and bipolar based on personal taste. It's when you get into 7.1 that you have rear surrounds and those are generally monopoles.

Actually, I'd personally use dipole on the sides, and bipole or monopole in the rear -- depending on space/placement limitations.

I also prefer my Monitor 70s over the Infinity alternatives.
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post #28 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 01:18 PM
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Do you know of any sites where I can get the Wharfedale WH-2's in black? Amazon seems to be out, and no other sites seem to have it.

So I wouldn't use the Wharfedale's as my rear surrounds - I'd have to get a different set, right?

You could use them. I'm speaking in general terms. I've used them for rears but that was because I didn't have enough room behind me for monopoles. They're cheap and if you decide that you don't like them for rears you can always move them to the bedroom. If you hang out here long you'll eventually have a 5.1 rig in there to.

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Actually, I'd personally use dipole on the sides, and bipole or monopole in the rear -- depending on space/placement limitations.

A perfectly valid opinion. It's just a personal taste and available space decision. I run monopoles in my family room because Jim Salk doesn't make bi/dipoles; and I run dipoles in my bedroom because of placement issues (and I had them on-hand); and I run bipoles for surrounds in my home-office.
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post #29 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 01:29 PM
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BTW here is a very-very-very technical discussion of the P362's predecessor the P360.
http://www.stereophile.com/floorloud...ty/index3.html

OP if you're in the US and don't need 3D compatibility then a refurbished Onkyo TX-SR707 from accessories for less would be a really nice choice. It's last years model so no 3D support but it has a good amplifier section and lots of great features for under $400. I'm running one in my bedroom.
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post #30 of 59 Old 08-24-2010, 01:33 PM
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Not to toss in another opinion, but I've helped, with good result, people in your situation before. I'll be short and specific. #1 buy the best front speakers you can. I don't think you can go wrong with this:

Paradigm Reference

That's your front 3 built in to one unit.

Or 4 of these + a center: Hsu Research They make nice subs too.

Then you'll need something to power them, like this: Pioneer 1020 The MCACC is commonly prefered to Audyssey's lesser auto calibrators.

Then you'll want a nice sub, at a good price.[IMG]Emotiva Ultra 10[/IMG] (If you wait 11 days to order, the Ultra 12 will be on sale again for "Emofest".


Just another perspective on the matter. The Paradigm deal is almost unbeatable. That's an incredible speaker system, and easily mountable above the TV firing down towards the listening position, or beneath the screen. Add surround speakers as you budget for it.
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