Definitive Technology BP2000 Wiring help - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 10-31-2010, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys, first time posting here!

I have done some searching on this and have a question or two:

I just got a new receiver and TV. The receiver has a left and right output per channel (it does 7.1 max). I currently have a 5.1 setup. Center channel, 2 front speakers (Definitive Tech BP2000), 2 rear tower speakers, and a sub.

I have everything wired but the front BP2000 speakers. Here is a picture of the rear wiring inputs:



How do I wire these? I have them in the low portion right now and it works. I was reading on some other threads about having to all the grounds on H/M/L connected together, and the powers of the H/M/L connected together as well, then run my inputs into those. Question being, how would I go about doing that? They're banana plugs, so would I have to put a plug into each input with a wire out the back, then twist them together and put an end on that? The monster wire I am running BARELY fits into one banana plug, so I doubt I could get 3 wires worth into a plug, even if I strip it down to the copper innards. I thought about 2 into 1 adapter, so I could hook up the High and Medium, then use the 1 wire to connect another 2 into 1 adapter into the H/M wire and the Low wire, then connect my input into that, but that would look extremely... cheesy? Also worried about the sound being degraded. I just got a huge roll of monster cable and monster ends for EVERYTHING... so with the wire and connectors and TV/receiver being used, I only want to do this once and do it RIGHT.

Thanks for any help guys!

EDIT: Don't mind the dust, that will be cleaned up!
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post #2 of 11 Old 10-31-2010, 03:20 PM
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I have owned those type definitives for several years. My advice, leave them wired as they are. I also see your subwoofer level knob is turned all the way up which is unnecessary. Most people have them somewhere between 11 and 1 o'clock.

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post #3 of 11 Old 10-31-2010, 06:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Just wanted to drop a line back in here:

Went and fiddled with it some, turns out the gold outline is actual gold. It looks like the store I bought it from many moons ago installed these by unscrewing the banana plugs and putting the bridge on it, then screwing it back in. I have since taken the input plugs and put them in the middle.

Subwoofer is turned up because it is pointing right next to my cabinet towers. I will get a picture for you guys in a few.
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post #4 of 11 Old 10-31-2010, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeezus View Post

Just wanted to drop a line back in here:

Went and fiddled with it some, turns out the gold outline is actual gold. It looks like the store I bought it from many moons ago installed these by unscrewing the banana plugs and putting the bridge on it, then screwing it back in. I have since taken the input plugs and put them in the middle.

Subwoofer is turned up because it is pointing right next to my cabinet towers. I will get a picture for you guys in a few.


With the gold plated connectors connecting your connections from the High/Mid and lows it doesnt matter where you stick the banana plugs because they are all getting the same input. Now if you pull the connector off of the low input and run the connector on the High and Mid you will have to run either speaker wire to the Low or use the RCA Full Range or LFE to power the woofer.

As was suggested no matter if your woofer is up against something or not you shouldn't run it above 10-1 Oclock because the bass becomes bloated and doesnt sound right. If the woofer is that tight against your ET Center you should switch them to the opposite sides so the woofer points outward.

your towers need some breathing room as well. You didnt say how much room you have from the front wall and the side walls. But hopefully you know that the bipolar towars need 16-24" from the front wall and the same if not more from the side walls.

Definitely need to get that dust off of your connections, in the end you should potentially short out your Low Level amp as that dust does end up grounding out and will jump across just like you have a wired connected directly from the positve to the negative side. Then you will end up having to replace a BP2000 amp and I dont think you want to do that.
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post #5 of 11 Old 10-31-2010, 09:27 PM
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Those are BP2000TL's.

As others have mentioned, the way you have it hooked up in the picture is best for most situations.

As for the level control knob: Depending on his bass management settings on the receiver side, having the knob full CW isn't really an issue. Now, if it's full CW due to placement then no, it's not optimal.

Cheers

Love DIY
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post #6 of 11 Old 11-02-2010, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Back to answer some more of the questions.
Here is the set up right now. Sorry for the bad camera phone pictures!



I will be swapping the 2 front tower speakers since the subwoofers on them are pointing inwards and there is about 3" of space between the speakers and the media towers. Regarding the distance from the wall, the BP2000TL's are about 6" from them. There wouldn't be a way we can move them to the recommended distances because it would be too much in the way. They are already flush with the front of the media towers. It isn't a big deal, the room this is in has an 18 foot ceiling that plays hell with the sound, not to mention the heating bill!

Just got the new 4 color TV installed. If you can see, the old TV (57" Panasonic HD TV) is in the far right corner.
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post #7 of 11 Old 01-15-2013, 05:19 PM
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So my question is do you plug in the LFE to the SUB out or leave it the way it is? I too have a pair of the original 2000's smile.gif
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-05-2013, 01:08 PM
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Just found this thread. Here is my opinion. I have the BP2002tl's, I have spent literally, days messing with this. I believe if you want the best sound out of these speakers, you want to hook them up in the "full range" configuration. To do this, (use pre-existing LFE cables) u will need to use your L/R pre-outs to connect to your speaker "full range" RCA connection and turn your subs off in the onkyo. There is no splitting of the signal and your bass in the towers will sound tighter.
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-07-2014, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy457 View Post
Just found this thread. Here is my opinion. I have the BP2002tl's, I have spent literally, days messing with this. I believe if you want the best sound out of these speakers, you want to hook them up in the "full range" configuration. To do this, (use pre-existing LFE cables) u will need to use your L/R pre-outs to connect to your speaker "full range" RCA connection and turn your subs off in the onkyo. There is no splitting of the signal and your bass in the towers will sound tighter.
Tommy, can you explain what you mean by all of the terminology? I didn't quite understand the meaning of "full range", "L/R pre-outs" and turning off your subs at the receiver. Can you dumb it down and ELI5?

I would have asked in a PM but the forums don't allow new users to send messages.

Thanks a bunch
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post #10 of 11 Old Yesterday, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Function0 View Post
Tommy, can you explain what you mean by all of the terminology? I didn't quite understand the meaning of "full range", "L/R pre-outs" and turning off your subs at the receiver. Can you dumb it down and ELI5?

I would have asked in a PM but the forums don't allow new users to send messages.

Thanks a bunch
Function, this is a pretty old thread, I'll try to answer your questions.
There are normally two different connections offered for the Supertower, it changes from speaker to speaker throughout the years.
One is like the picture above with an RCA input and 3 separate speaker wire connections, one for each driver array all joined by the jumper bars you see in the picture.
The other has the RCA connection and just one speaker wire connection. (The arrays are joined internally)
The RCA connection is a Low Level / Pre-Amp connection for the powered woofer section of the speaker.
The reason these exist is that, since the woofers are powered they are fed with a low level input into the internal amp for the woofer, when you use just the speaker wire (which is high level) all of the low signals, below the speakers crossover, has to be then filtered/reduced back to low level before it can be fed into the amp and then played by the woofer.
By using the low level / RCA input from your receiver directly to the speaker that signal is already at the proper level and doesn't have to be "processed" down an extra time, basic train of thought is less processing = cleaner signal.

As for the connection to your receiver, this will depend on may factors:
Are you using separate Subs?
Music or HT?
Your room in general and it's individual acoustics?
Your personal listening preference?
Your exact speakers? (Midrange size and Woofer size will vary the connection also)

Connection options are:
Speakers:
1) Just speaker wire. (most common and easiest choice)
2) Speaker Wire and RCA input. (If you have speakers with more than one pair of wire connections as above, you MUST! pull the jumpers between the low and mid connection, you CANNOT run Low Level and High Level into the internal amp at the same time, YOU WILL FRY IT.)
Receiver:
1) Speaker Wire only.
2) Speaker Wire and RCA from Full Range Pre-outs (L/R Front)
3) Speaker Wire and RCA from LFE

Each of these may or may not give you different results, sorry to say that it will take a lot of experimenting and personal listening to figure out which is best for you, as I said before, your Receiver, Room, Personal Taste and Other Speakers will play a huge role in figuring out what it's best for you or if any changes are even worth your time.

Any questions you can PM me or ask it in the Definitive Owners thread:
Definitive Owners Thread
We check it quite often.

Hope this helps.

*Warning* None of my suggestions, ideas or even thoughts have any WAF, in any way!
My Build Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-gen...formation.html

Last edited by ALtlOff; Today at 03:15 AM.
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post #11 of 11 Old Today, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Function0 View Post
Tommy, can you explain what you mean by all of the terminology? I didn't quite understand the meaning of "full range", "L/R pre-outs" and turning off your subs at the receiver. Can you dumb it down and ELI5?

I would have asked in a PM but the forums don't allow new users to send messages.

Thanks a bunch
Tx Altloff. I couldn't have have said it better. Hey Function0, Just to let you I know have done a few more things since this thread.

First is that I added a dedicated power amp. The one thing I kept struggling with is that speakers just didn't seem to have the punch I was looking for. I "thought" I had adequate power, and I use that term loosely, since my Onkyo was a higher end unit. What I found was that the Def Techs are power hungry!! I just wasn't getting enough power to them. This was verified when I had to return the PA because of a defect and had to re-hookup the speakers back to the Onkyo. What a difference.

With the speakers connected to the PA, they came alive. Even my wife noticed a difference. I got that definition that I was looking for. I got an insane deal on a Sherbourne PA7-350. That's right, 350 ohms per channel, 7 channels driven. Now I have to be careful I don't fry my crossover, again. Lol. (Did it once already, cuz I had to see how loud it would get).

Second thing I did was add a dedicated sub woofer. That took the responsibility of that low frequency away from the the speakers and placed it where it needed to be at, in the sub.

So my final wiring of the speakers is bi-wired to the PA. With the high knobs getting their own wire and the mid and low knobs connected together. My Onkyo is set to full range and letting the subs in the Def Techs handle all the low end that the receiver will give it and I have the sub turned on for the low freq. stuff.

I hope that helps. Just ask if you have more questions..

Good luck
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