Have a look at these Beauties!!!! How to make your OWN "High End" Cables!!! - Page 120 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3571 of 3594 Old 07-27-2014, 10:25 AM
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Very nice, have to make something similar for a subwoofer connection.

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Originally Posted by DS-21 View Post
New computer system speaker cables:





Parts: Esoteric Audio "Isopath" jacketed wire (14AWG solid core twisted pair in Teflon with PVC outer jacket - really annoying to work with for long runs, but fine here...too bad I have like 200' of the stuff), carbon Techflex, heat shrink (I find "cable pants" annoying), Audioquest bananas* on amp end, Neutrik Speakon NL4FC (original model) on speaker end.

*Unfortunately, the binding posts on my Pro-Ject Amp Box SE are not designed for spades, and I'm not willing to modify the amp to use a proper Speakon connector. So I was stuck with either bananas or bare solid core wire that could break if flexed too much. So I went with bananas. I picked these particular parts because I had them on hand and they meet my minimum requirements for use with this wire (double set screw, insulated barrel). Otherwise there's nothing special about them. Since my speakers are bespoke obviously they have proper Neutrik Speakon jacks, bypassing that kludge we call "binding posts." Speakons are massively superior in every relevant and material way. More people should use them.

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post #3572 of 3594 Old 08-06-2014, 08:56 AM
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Anyone used this Auvio wire from Radioshack? From what I have read it has excellent build quality and is more substantial than Monoprice wire.



Thinking of picking up some of this and making some DIY cables for my front speakers. Just need to figure out what size techflex and pants to get. Also, do I need to have a heat gun for the heatshrink material or is there another option?

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post #3573 of 3594 Old 08-06-2014, 05:30 PM
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The Monoprice wire has a PVC jacket that is round and makes good looking round tech flex covered wire. The pictured wire doesn't. Just a FYI.
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post #3574 of 3594 Old 09-01-2014, 11:00 PM
 
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Originally Posted by RickD1225 View Post
The Monoprice wire has a PVC jacket that is round and makes good looking round tech flex covered wire. The pictured wire doesn't. Just a FYI.


you want round like this.. if you want premium cables..


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post #3575 of 3594 Old 09-01-2014, 11:05 PM
 
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back to work summer is over !!!!


premium quad 12awg cable, bi wired, with premium nymax cover, sewell dead bolts and gold plated copper spades..








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post #3576 of 3594 Old 09-07-2014, 10:50 PM
 
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post #3577 of 3594 Old 09-09-2014, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure-Evil View Post
Awesome speaker cables eh?!!! They look like a million bucks but cost a fraction!!! Don't get sucked in!!!

12 guage monoprice wire monoprice banana plugs knukonceptz cable pants and tech flex from eBay seller FurryLetters!!! Great deal!!!! And yes they are long!!! 50ft That is just ONE cable LOL I told you my room is BIG!
Very nice. BTW, for readers of this thread, KnuKonceptz also makes/sells good basic cables, very flexible (high strand count). Comparable to monoprice in costs. On Ebay/Amazon, you can get very durable bananas/spades through Orange County Speaker, they are a reseller, forget who the original manufacturer is but you can buy from them as well.
Have also used the cable pants from KnuKonceptz. Nice touch, and they increase the propagation velocity to at least 2X the speed of light.
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post #3578 of 3594 Old 09-09-2014, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by clpetersen View Post
On Ebay/Amazon, you can get very durable bananas/spades through Orange County Speaker, they are a reseller, forget who the original manufacturer is but you can buy from them as well.
GLS Audio, nice plugs.

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post #3579 of 3594 Old 09-09-2014, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS-21 View Post
New computer system speaker cables:





Parts: Esoteric Audio "Isopath" jacketed wire (14AWG solid core twisted pair in Teflon with PVC outer jacket - really annoying to work with for long runs, but fine here...too bad I have like 200' of the stuff), carbon Techflex, heat shrink (I find "cable pants" annoying), Audioquest bananas* on amp end, Neutrik Speakon NL4FC (original model) on speaker end.

*Unfortunately, the binding posts on my Pro-Ject Amp Box SE are not designed for spades, and I'm not willing to modify the amp to use a proper Speakon connector. So I was stuck with either bananas or bare solid core wire that could break if flexed too much. So I went with bananas. I picked these particular parts because I had them on hand and they meet my minimum requirements for use with this wire (double set screw, insulated barrel). Otherwise there's nothing special about them. Since my speakers are bespoke obviously they have proper Neutrik Speakon jacks, bypassing that kludge we call "binding posts." Speakons are massively superior in every relevant and material way. More people should use them.
Now that is some quality stuff! Looks great! I wish the rest of the guys here used quality parts (i.e. connectors) instead of that Hong Kong garbage sold on eBay.
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post #3580 of 3594 Old 09-09-2014, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NagysAudio View Post
Now that is some quality stuff! Looks great! I wish the rest of the guys here used quality parts (i.e. connectors) instead of that Hong Kong garbage sold on eBay.
I agree. Proper speaker connectors are made in Liechtenstein not Hong Kong!

On the banana end, had the wire I had on hand been stranded rather than solid I would've used Sewell Deadbolts. Like the parts I used, they have insulated barrels. But IMO the screw-compression fitting is just as good, and they take less time to assemble than the double-screw bananas.

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Last edited by DS-21; 09-10-2014 at 12:18 AM.
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post #3581 of 3594 Old 09-10-2014, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NagysAudio View Post



Now that is some quality stuff! Looks great! I wish the rest of the guys here used quality parts (i.e. connectors) instead of that Hong Kong garbage sold on eBay.
Not sure who you are including in your statement "rest of the guys" but I don't use inferior products in my personal cables. Quality Belden wiring, quality gls banana plugs, and sleeving from Germany. Wattgate connectors and Belden power wire for power cables.

Not all products on eBay are "garbage" considering a lot of manufactures sell on eBay.
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Last edited by nezff; 09-10-2014 at 01:45 PM.
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post #3582 of 3594 Old 09-10-2014, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post
Not sure who you are including in your statement "rest of the guys" but I don't use inferior products in my personal cables. Quality Belden wiring, quality gls banana plugs, and sleeving from Germany. Wattgate connectors and Belden power wire for power cables.

Not all products on eBay are "garbage" considering a lot of manufactures sell on eBay.
OK - question for the thread:

I am running a Naim amp fed by a separate DAC/pre-amp (Oppo HA-1, highly recommended, separate thread).

Naim traditionally uses 5-pin DIN connectors as their preferred choice, but offer RCA as well. The oppo has balanced (XLR) and RCA outputs.

So, I would build a 5-pin DIN to 2 RCA (banana) adaptor, about 0.5 meter long. The 5th pin (shield) is simply un-terminated on the RCA end (need to confirm this).
Available (of course) from Naim, but there is no fun in that. And, this is not meant to increase the soundstage or reduce sibilance, just a cleaner and cooler looking cable.

Component recommendations? Thx --
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post #3583 of 3594 Old 10-14-2014, 07:44 AM
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Question anyone tried braided CAT5 here?

hi,

This is exciting thread!!! Lots of nice looking cables!!!
I am new to the forum and new to DIY cable.
I am planning the make a cable asap and wonder if anyone here tried "braided CAT5" or "braided cable"?

I came across few interesting article regarding braided cable design such as :
“TNT CAT5 triple T” at TNT audio & diy-speaker-cable-faceoff
“Low-Inductance DIY Hi-Fi Speaker Cables” at diy audio projects dot com
(sorry I cant post a link yet)
I wonder if anyone can share their thought about those DIY braided cable?

Also, Has anyone tried the non-stranded copper core cable such as Talk 3 Cable? (talkelectronics dot com)
Does it make sense to braid Talk 3 cable?

My system details are as follow:

Amp: Musical Fidelity B200
Class AB , 60W per channel
Speaker: EB Acoustic EB2
Cabinet: Composite closed box
Drive Units: 170mm bass unit and 25mm soft dome tweeter
Dimensions: 450mm tall, 225mm wide, 296mm deep (310mm with grille)
Impedance: 8 ohms nominal, 5.9 ohms minimum.
Sensitivity: 87dB@ 2.8 volts@ 1 metre with pink noise
Frequency range: Useable from 45Hz to 20000Hz
Cable: CAMBRIDGE AUDIO SYMPHONY 400 (currently 2ish meter long)
Roomsize: 5m x 3m
Source: MP3, Flac on NAS / Vinyl / Spotify

Any recommendations/ suggestions are welcome!!
Cheers,
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post #3584 of 3594 Old 10-19-2014, 05:07 PM
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I think most in here just wanted a high quality, good looking cable but didn't want to spend $5,000.00 on a hunk of wire. As long as the diameter of the wire is sufficient to pass the needed electrons, it's exact configuration is mostly aesthetics. I don't really believe that braided vs upbraided or silver vs copper makes much of a difference.

Do something that looks good to you. Make it a large enough diameter to pass the power you want to use on the speaker.

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post #3585 of 3594 Old 11-05-2014, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cableguy301 View Post
very nice work
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post #3586 of 3594 Old 11-06-2014, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmush View Post
hi,

This is exciting thread!!! Lots of nice looking cables!!!
I am new to the forum and new to DIY cable.
I am planning the make a cable asap and wonder if anyone here tried "braided CAT5" or "braided cable"?

I came across few interesting article regarding braided cable design such as :
“TNT CAT5 triple T” at TNT audio & diy-speaker-cable-faceoff
“Low-Inductance DIY Hi-Fi Speaker Cables” at diy audio projects dot com
(sorry I cant post a link yet)
I wonder if anyone can share their thought about those DIY braided cable?

Also, Has anyone tried the non-stranded copper core cable such as Talk 3 Cable? (talkelectronics dot com)
Does it make sense to braid Talk 3 cable?

My system details are as follow:

Amp: Musical Fidelity B200
Class AB , 60W per channel
Speaker: EB Acoustic EB2
Cabinet: Composite closed box
Drive Units: 170mm bass unit and 25mm soft dome tweeter
Dimensions: 450mm tall, 225mm wide, 296mm deep (310mm with grille)
Impedance: 8 ohms nominal, 5.9 ohms minimum.
Sensitivity: 87dB@ 2.8 volts@ 1 metre with pink noise
Frequency range: Useable from 45Hz to 20000Hz
Cable: CAMBRIDGE AUDIO SYMPHONY 400 (currently 2ish meter long)
Roomsize: 5m x 3m
Source: MP3, Flac on NAS / Vinyl / Spotify

Any recommendations/ suggestions are welcome!!
Cheers,
I have made speaker wire from CAT 5 cable. That is what is running to my surrounds now. Sounds great but is a REAL pain to work with.
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post #3587 of 3594 Old 11-06-2014, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djmush View Post
I came across few interesting article regarding braided cable design such as : “TNT CAT5 triple T” at TNT audio & diy-speaker-cable-faceoff “Low-Inductance DIY Hi-Fi Speaker Cables” at diy audio projects dot com
(sorry I cant post a link yet)
I wonder if anyone can share their thought about those DIY braided cable?
I did the Audioholics version of DIY CAT5. Sounds pretty good actually but don't know if there is any difference from the 10 gauge Belden from Bluejeans that I now use on everything. So good my sister started doing it using an extra reel that's been lying around for her bedroom system.
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post #3588 of 3594 Old 12-16-2014, 05:29 PM
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What size Parts Express cable pants fit the best with 12 AWG in-wall speaker wire?
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post #3589 of 3594 Old 12-16-2014, 05:31 PM
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10mm
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post #3590 of 3594 Old 12-16-2014, 06:02 PM
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Thanks
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post #3591 of 3594 Old 12-17-2014, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Osirus23 View Post
What size Parts Express cable pants fit the best with 12 AWG in-wall speaker wire?
I used 9 mm.
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post #3592 of 3594 Old 12-17-2014, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osirus23 View Post
What size Parts Express cable pants fit the best with 12 AWG in-wall speaker wire?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nezff View Post
10mm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post
I used 9 mm.

As you can see, 2 different answer.
If you post the name and model of your 12awg in-wall wire you intend to use it might help some Members to give you a better answer for your need since not all wires are built the same.


From memory, I believe I use 10mm using these
http://www.knukonceptz.com/home-thea...er-wire-100ft/
But I would need to double check!!!


Ray
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post #3593 of 3594 Old 02-25-2015, 07:45 AM
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I used Monoprice 12 ga in wall speaker wire. The cable pants I used were from parts express. I used 11 mm pants and they were a touch big. Not falling off, but not skin tight. I believe the 10 mm pants would be a better fit. The 9mm may fit, but will be tight. When making my bi wire cables, I had to cdompletely strip off teh insulation and pre twist the wires to get the 2 connector end to fit through the pants. It was a bit of a struggle. FYI larger sizes of cable pants will be for a larger overall wire gauge. Not for a larger gauge of wire to pass through the pants. I think the pants side of the connector is a universal size that does not change much with different sizes.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS-21 View Post
I'm installing a new AVR, and the ~99-cent nickel bananas from Parts Express that I've used for a decade now are getting a bit loose and a few of the labels I made in a super high-tech fashion (read: printed on paper, affixed to cable pant with scotch tape) fell off, so I think I'm going to redo AVR end of my wires in accordance with the CEA-863B standard, which to my surprise nobody has yet mentioned on this thread (I searched). After all, sometimes when unplugging/replugging, I get confused as to what's what.

While I don't know the full scheme (not gonna pay $60 to learn the color codes for height/wide speakers I don't employ anyway!), the color codes for the positive leads in a 7.1-channel surround back system are as follows.

Front Right: Red
Front Left: White
Center Channel: Green
Side Surround Left: Blue
Side Surround Right: Gray
Back Surround Left: Brown
Back Surround Right: Tan
Subwoofers: Purple

All negative leads are black.

I haven't decided whether to do the leads in the following:

(1) Colored heat shrink, covering the bananas ("Nakamichi" saw tooth two-screw models) and covering the plug to replace their (poorly-threaded) red and black plastic barrels. (I went with plastic barrels because I wanted to insulate the connectors as much as possible. Unfortunately, acetone eats the plastic without doing much to remove the logo.)

(2) Techflex covered with clear shrink, with the ends concealed at the wire split-off point by the standard black heat shrink strip (I don't like "cable pants") and at the banana by the Nak plastic barrel.

(3) #2, but with the 'flex and 'shrink covering the banana plug, and some as-yet undetermined means of providing a finished appearance over the banana plug.

Thoughts?

Obviously, the latter two are more expensive, more time consuming, and nobody but me will see it anyway. But the issue is more aesthetic than cost, because neither one is in absolute terms expensive. So which one do you think will look better?

If it makes a difference, my base wire is, depending on the length of the run, 16/2 twisted or 16/4 braided mil-spec silver-plated copper with Teflon insulation,* in either case sleeved with 1/4" carbon or light grey Techflex except the center, which is sleeved in Superhero at the amp end because I ran out of carbon.

Also, does anyone have a quicker way of sleeving Techflex over wire than taping one wire end together and "accordioning" the sleeve down the wire inch-by-inch?

*Before anyone asks, no it doesn't sound any different from anything else. But the Teflon jacket makes it thinner than anything else I've seen of the same wire thickness, it's very flexible and Steve at ApexJr had it cheap when I bought it.
I wanted to do something like this as well. Finding all the colors (cheaply) in heat shrink was/is a pain, so I started to research other ways of marking the cables. I finally decided to try o-rings. I found some online, and have ordered each color to place between the connectors and the heat shrink. The jacket/heat shrink/pants should stop them from sliding down the cable, and the separated leads will keep them positioned tight to the jacket/heat shrink/pants. We'll see in about a week if it works.

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