Have a look at these Beauties!!!! How to make your OWN "High End" Cables!!! - Page 129 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3841 of 3862 Old 05-08-2016, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Well, I finally got around to making my cables yesterday! MAN! I found it rather challenging. I thought the tech-flex was at first easy to work with, but then discovered that measuring a length of cable, and then measuring a length of tech-flex was not the way to go! For me anyway, the tech-flex ended up being shorter once on the cable - it must shrink in length as it expands in diameter and I didn't take that into consideration! So biffed on this. Anybody have advice?

I did get 3 cables constructed (L/R/C) but center channel cable has no tech-flex, as I ran out! Still, you never see that cable. The L/R cables aren't terrible, but I gotta say the Mogami cable is a bit more challenging to work with perhaps because of it's larger diameter (the twin rope-fill does not help, but DOES help keep a very n ice, round shape overall). Plus the wires themselves are approaching 11-guage. So, yeah - they were challenging to fit into both the GLS and Sewell banana plugs. They are almost not photo-worthy, but I'll get one up eventually of the one semi-decent cable!

I think I prefer the functionality of the Sewell Deadbolts over the GLS bananas, Sewells were much easier for me to work with the cable pants. The GLS look nicer I think, but the Sewells offered a slightly tighter fit. I abandoned one of the GLS, it juts wouldn't fit tight into the speaker binding post, but the rest were fine. I used the Sewells at the amp connections and the GLS on the speaker end since those will be visible. I thought both were really good quality.

The good news - THEY ALL WORKED! I also fab'd 3 XLR cables to run from the pre-pro to the amp - after the first cable, I got the technique down and I thought these were way easier to make than the speaker cables, believe it or not, even though soldering was involved. (no tech-flex! )

Jonas, great job!!!!!..........Haha, welcome to the "will I have enough tech flex" club I think I get double of what I'm covering. For an 8' cable, I'll get 16' of T-flex and usually have a bit left over.


Dude, good for you on the XLR cables! I too branched out and did a mess of RCA cables. It was my first experience with solder but I loved it.


For sure man, post those pics and don't worry, nobody "should" judge I think Elvis sang a song about my first effort...."In the ghetto"


As you're finding out, the more you make, the better you get!

Spinning the rear tire at 150mph while at 3/4 lean angle will put wrinkles in your seat


Set up:
Integra 70.4--Oppo 103--LG50"Plasma--Emotiva: XPA-3, XPA-2 x 2--PolkAudio: RTiA9 x 4--CSiA6--FXiA6 x 4--Epik: Empire x 2--XBOX 360--Furez 10awg homemade cables
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post #3842 of 3862 Old 05-08-2016, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post
Jonas, great job!!!!!..........Haha, welcome to the "will I have enough tech flex" club I think I get double of what I'm covering. For an 8' cable, I'll get 16' of T-flex and usually have a bit left over.


Dude, good for you on the XLR cables! I too branched out and did a mess of RCA cables. It was my first experience with solder but I loved it.


For sure man, post those pics and don't worry, nobody "should" judge I think Elvis sang a song about my first effort...."In the ghetto"


As you're finding out, the more you make, the better you get!
Thanks! There was a lot of cursing involved, but it paid off hearing sound through my system knowing they worked! I kinda knew they would at least deliver a signal since I tested them all with an ohm meter first just to make sure everything was solid.

What I had trouble with besides coming up short in the tech flex is that the first end of the cable is easy - it was the second end that was challenging. So attempting to cut the tech-flex to size - bad idea - the cut end frays easily as you know. So I don't know what the best approach is to get the proper size cleanly. I guess just fit it on the cable as though it was final assembly, then make a cut mark, ease the flex off, cut and gently put back on the cable and hope the cut end doesn't fray? I did notice the cut end fairs much better being the trailing end rather than the leading one. I did try to melt the cut end with a lighter - didn't work out.

Any advice greatly appreciated!
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post #3843 of 3862 Old 05-08-2016, 12:53 PM
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Thanks! There was a lot of cursing involved, but it paid off hearing sound through my system knowing they worked! I kinda knew they would at least deliver a signal since I tested them all with an ohm meter first just to make sure everything was solid.

What I had trouble with besides coming up short in the tech flex is that the first end of the cable is easy - it was the second end that was challenging. So attempting to cut the tech-flex to size - bad idea - the cut end frays easily as you know. So I don't know what the best approach is to get the proper size cleanly. I guess just fit it on the cable as though it was final assembly, then make a cut mark, ease the flex off, cut and gently put back on the cable and hope the cut end doesn't fray? I did notice the cut end fairs much better being the trailing end rather than the leading one. I did try to melt the cut end with a lighter - didn't work out.

Any advice greatly appreciated!

That's one of the biggest headaches right there. But!!! Since I have my new solder station and iron with several different tips.......one is a flat blade!


That bad boy is like slicing a hot knife through butter. It just takes a careful hand as you go around the cable so you don't melt too deep and get the cable jacket as well

Spinning the rear tire at 150mph while at 3/4 lean angle will put wrinkles in your seat


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post #3844 of 3862 Old 05-08-2016, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post
That's one of the biggest headaches right there. But!!! Since I have my new solder station and iron with several different tips.......one is a flat blade!


That bad boy is like slicing a hot knife through butter. It just takes a careful hand as you go around the cable so you don't melt too deep and get the cable jacket as well
Aw, that's genius! I'll have to try that next time. Besides, a nice piece of shrink wrap right at that "joint" would hide small boo-boos done to the cable jacket. The jacket on the cable I used is THICK, so no worries melting through to the conductors.
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post #3845 of 3862 Old 05-08-2016, 07:37 PM
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There's nothing better for cutting TechFlex sheathing than a hot-knife. I hope (expect) to pick one up someday soon.

I never attempt to measure and precut the TechFlex sheathing. When I do cut, what I do is precut a short piece of electrical tape. Now I hold onto the sheathing spreading it apart a little with my fingers, I then wrap the electrical tape around the sheathing and cut right in the middle of the tape. Now I have two non-frayed ends. It's important to have minimal layer (1) and little to no overlap of the tape. Thickness adds up and can make getting into the cable pants troublesome.

For starting a cable that I'm going to finish with the KnuKonceptz cable pants, I first use a single edge razor blade to strip back the first 6" of outer cable sheath to expose 6" of the twin leads. Now I feed that into the end of the TechFlex that's got the 1/2 width of electrical tape on the "roll side" of the TechFlex. Push it until it stops, grab it where it stopped and push more on from the end. Squeezing the TechFlex on the cable at that feed end, I let go of the "on" end and run the "lump" from the feed end out along the cable. Lather, rinse, repeat until the TechFlex is at the total length of the cable I want to make. I then wrap another piece of electrical tape around it, middle of the tape at the length I want, minus 6 inches.

Pick up the single edge razor blade I carefully cut through the tape, TechFlex sheathing and outer cable sheath. Pull the "roll end" of the TechFlex away, it's safe from fraying with the half-width of tape still on it, and at the right size for feeding the next cable length into it.

Back to the cable, snip through everything at the 6" lead length. I now wrap one one thin layer (one rotation thickness only, ever) around it, half on the TechFlex and half on the two leads where they exit the sheathing. Before going any further, I slip two 3/4" lengths of 1/2" 3:1 dual wall (1 is adhesive) heat shrink tubing over the sheathing

Now I can slip on the cable pants. I do cut about 1" off the small ends of the cable pants to give me the length I like. Strip the wire leads back about 5/8" inch, slip the collar of the Blue Jeans Cable locking banana plugs over it. Feed the stripped leads into the banana plug, screw down tight. Drop a healthy dot of solder in the groove they've milled 1/2 way through. Thread the collar over the fastening area. Another piece of the 1/2" heat shrink tubing to seal at the junction of the cable pants leg and end of banana plug. Repeat at other end. Activate heat gun and seal 4 junctions at banana plug to cable pants, two at cable pants to TechFlex.

Done.

System includes KEF R500 floor standing, R200C center, R100 surrounds, SVS SB2000 subwoofer, NAD T758 receiver, Pro-Ject RPM1 turntable w/ Sumiko Pearl cartridge, Bluesound Vault, Sony BDP-S480 BlueRay player, Samsung UN55JU6500F 4K LED TV, KEF M500 headphones, Sony CDP-CE500 CD changer, MCS System cassette deck. The last 2 items are dust collectors but will work if asked.
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post #3846 of 3862 Old 05-08-2016, 09:09 PM
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There's nothing better for cutting TechFlex sheathing than a hot-knife. I hope (expect) to pick one up someday soon....................................Done.

LOL, as I read through your methods, it reminds me of the tedious work and care and special attention to extra fine details involved to install a pair of cable pants and have them looking as professional as possible, an effort that would make our grandparents proud to no end.


You certainly do a good job no doubt.


If you ever get to do a job using the cable separators we discussed earlier, you're going to get done and ask yourself, "wait, is that it???" "where's the struggle, where's the sweat, where's the strategic maneuvers?" "surely it can't be THAT easy?"


I'm looking forward to your reaction to the ease of the application!!

Spinning the rear tire at 150mph while at 3/4 lean angle will put wrinkles in your seat


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Integra 70.4--Oppo 103--LG50"Plasma--Emotiva: XPA-3, XPA-2 x 2--PolkAudio: RTiA9 x 4--CSiA6--FXiA6 x 4--Epik: Empire x 2--XBOX 360--Furez 10awg homemade cables
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post #3847 of 3862 Old 05-09-2016, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by KenM10759 View Post
There's nothing better for cutting TechFlex sheathing than a hot-knife. I hope (expect) to pick one up someday soon.

I never attempt to measure and precut the TechFlex sheathing. When I do cut, what I do is precut a short piece of electrical tape. Now I hold onto the sheathing spreading it apart a little with my fingers, I then wrap the electrical tape around the sheathing and cut right in the middle of the tape. Now I have two non-frayed ends. It's important to have minimal layer (1) and little to no overlap of the tape. Thickness adds up and can make getting into the cable pants troublesome.

For starting a cable that I'm going to finish with the KnuKonceptz cable pants, I first use a single edge razor blade to strip back the first 6" of outer cable sheath to expose 6" of the twin leads. Now I feed that into the end of the TechFlex that's got the 1/2 width of electrical tape on the "roll side" of the TechFlex. Push it until it stops, grab it where it stopped and push more on from the end. Squeezing the TechFlex on the cable at that feed end, I let go of the "on" end and run the "lump" from the feed end out along the cable. Lather, rinse, repeat until the TechFlex is at the total length of the cable I want to make. I then wrap another piece of electrical tape around it, middle of the tape at the length I want, minus 6 inches.

Pick up the single edge razor blade I carefully cut through the tape, TechFlex sheathing and outer cable sheath. Pull the "roll end" of the TechFlex away, it's safe from fraying with the half-width of tape still on it, and at the right size for feeding the next cable length into it.

Back to the cable, snip through everything at the 6" lead length. I now wrap one one thin layer (one rotation thickness only, ever) around it, half on the TechFlex and half on the two leads where they exit the sheathing. Before going any further, I slip two 3/4" lengths of 1/2" 3:1 dual wall (1 is adhesive) heat shrink tubing over the sheathing

Now I can slip on the cable pants. I do cut about 1" off the small ends of the cable pants to give me the length I like. Strip the wire leads back about 5/8" inch, slip the collar of the Blue Jeans Cable locking banana plugs over it. Feed the stripped leads into the banana plug, screw down tight. Drop a healthy dot of solder in the groove they've milled 1/2 way through. Thread the collar over the fastening area. Another piece of the 1/2" heat shrink tubing to seal at the junction of the cable pants leg and end of banana plug. Repeat at other end. Activate heat gun and seal 4 junctions at banana plug to cable pants, two at cable pants to TechFlex.

Done.
Great description of how you do this! I will definitely redo my cables at some point, this should make it go easier! It does look like a hot knife could be very handy too.
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post #3848 of 3862 Old 05-09-2016, 11:12 AM
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I found a couple hot-knife being sold on Amazon, too much to justify right now at about $106. There's other ways, especially if you have a Weller or similar soldering gun. I like the benchtop "always on" style because you can use two hands on the product, hot knife stays put.

http://www.cableorganizer.com/hot-knife/

BTW, there's some good videos on that site related to cable sheathing.

System includes KEF R500 floor standing, R200C center, R100 surrounds, SVS SB2000 subwoofer, NAD T758 receiver, Pro-Ject RPM1 turntable w/ Sumiko Pearl cartridge, Bluesound Vault, Sony BDP-S480 BlueRay player, Samsung UN55JU6500F 4K LED TV, KEF M500 headphones, Sony CDP-CE500 CD changer, MCS System cassette deck. The last 2 items are dust collectors but will work if asked.
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post #3849 of 3862 Old 05-10-2016, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by KenM10759 View Post
I found a couple hot-knife being sold on Amazon, too much to justify right now at about $106. There's other ways, especially if you have a Weller or similar soldering gun. I like the benchtop "always on" style because you can use two hands on the product, hot knife stays put.

http://www.cableorganizer.com/hot-knife/

BTW, there's some good videos on that site related to cable sheathing.
Yeah, some of those hot knives do seem a bit pricey. Not sure how good the cheaper ones would be. Unfortunately, my soldering iron would not lend itself well to this activity - just an iron with tips, not like the Weller gun type (though I LOVE my iron - Hakko).

I'll have to check out those vids! I need it.....
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post #3850 of 3862 Old 05-11-2016, 08:28 AM
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Just get a cheese slicer and heat it up with a torch.
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post #3851 of 3862 Old 06-09-2016, 11:01 PM
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Got this from PE. Finally got a chance to dress up the speaker cables. I didnt use monoprice speaker cable. I used Guitar center 12 awg 2 speaker cable. I got the 1/4 flex and the 3/4 shrink wrap with 10 mm cable boots. All from PE. The GLS Connectors from amazon. The connectors are awsome. They fit the boot extremely well and and more so when you tighten them. I see some of you put the shrink wrap on the outside. The cable boot hides mine. Both look equally nice.
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post #3852 of 3862 Old 06-10-2016, 05:24 AM
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Got this from PE. Finally got a chance to dress up the speaker cables. I didnt use monoprice speaker cable. I used Guitar center 12 awg 2 speaker cable. I got the 1/4 flex and the 3/4 shrink wrap with 10 mm cable boots. All from PE. The GLS Connectors from amazon. The connectors are awsome. They fit the boot extremely well and and more so when you tighten them. I see some of you put the shrink wrap on the outside. The cable boot hides mine. Both look equally nice.
I agree, both ways of doing it look great. I chose to have heat shrink over every junction, your way is functionally the same just a different look.

So by "PE" you mean PartsExpress.com? I had shopped them but if I recall correctly their cable boots seemed costly compared to KnuKoncepts at $.99 each. The GLS banana plugs look great. I chose the Blue Jeans Cable "Locking Banana Plugs" (expanding, actually) because of a bad experience with similar looking tips on Monoprice cables that were all over the map on how snug they were (or weren't) in my speaker binding posts. If I wasn't using the BJC style I'd use the serrated tube style that Nordost uses on their high priced cables.

System includes KEF R500 floor standing, R200C center, R100 surrounds, SVS SB2000 subwoofer, NAD T758 receiver, Pro-Ject RPM1 turntable w/ Sumiko Pearl cartridge, Bluesound Vault, Sony BDP-S480 BlueRay player, Samsung UN55JU6500F 4K LED TV, KEF M500 headphones, Sony CDP-CE500 CD changer, MCS System cassette deck. The last 2 items are dust collectors but will work if asked.
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post #3853 of 3862 Old 06-10-2016, 08:03 AM
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Yes , im sorry PE ( partsexspress.com) i try and purchase everything through them. The 10mm boot cost 6.00 for 10 +shipping 7.00 which is not bad at all. The flex tube was 6.00 for 25 ft so i picked up 2. They have very good customer service. Yeah it takes at least 4 to 5 days to recieve stuff but considering ive spent the last six months building the HT(home theater) 4 to 5 days is nothing. The GLS connectors for me have worked perfect. The fact that i have to apply a good amount of pressure to get them in the reciever tells you something. Even the binding posts on the speakers as well. I dont have to worry about anything being loose. Who doesnt like to have that PEACE OF MIND. Alot of great looking cables on here. Keep the pictures coming guys.

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post #3854 of 3862 Old 06-11-2016, 05:20 AM
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I used Guitar center 12 awg 2 speaker cable.
Which cable did you end up buying from Guitar Center?

B&W 804 and HTM | Emotiva ERD-1 | DIY 18" Sub
Emotiva XMC-1 | XPA-2 | XPA-5 | Crown XLS 2502
Samsung 58" Plasma | BenQ HT1075 100" Screen
Amazon Fire TV with XMBC | Oppo BDP-103 Bluray Player
Mogami and Blue Jeans Cables
ATS and DIY Acoustic Panels
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post #3855 of 3862 Old 06-11-2016, 05:28 AM
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Here's a recent cable... connects a Crown 2502 to my DIY Sub.

MonoPrice 12awg Cable
Neutrik Speakon Connector
Neutrik Speakon Angle Connector
TechFlex (Already had it)
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Emotiva XMC-1 | XPA-2 | XPA-5 | Crown XLS 2502
Samsung 58" Plasma | BenQ HT1075 100" Screen
Amazon Fire TV with XMBC | Oppo BDP-103 Bluray Player
Mogami and Blue Jeans Cables
ATS and DIY Acoustic Panels
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post #3856 of 3862 Old 06-11-2016, 07:12 AM
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I have the TechFlex in that same color for my own speaker cables. It's not for everyone (an understatement) but I think it's cool and looks high tech.

Nice work.
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System includes KEF R500 floor standing, R200C center, R100 surrounds, SVS SB2000 subwoofer, NAD T758 receiver, Pro-Ject RPM1 turntable w/ Sumiko Pearl cartridge, Bluesound Vault, Sony BDP-S480 BlueRay player, Samsung UN55JU6500F 4K LED TV, KEF M500 headphones, Sony CDP-CE500 CD changer, MCS System cassette deck. The last 2 items are dust collectors but will work if asked.
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post #3857 of 3862 Old 06-11-2016, 08:16 AM
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I used Guitar center 12 awg 2 speaker cable.
Which cable did you end up buying from Guitar Center?
I bought this wire except without the banana plugs. I got it cause its a very beefy speaker wire and i liked the thickness of the jacket. It cost .99 a foot. I didnt need large runs. The longest run i have is 6 ft so.....and i only used it for L/C/R's of the system and the 2 subs. I spent like 30.00. For the surrounds i will be purchaseing the monoprice 14awg cause of the longer runs.
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post #3858 of 3862 Old 06-11-2016, 09:05 AM
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Thanks for the info! Not a bad price for cable that you can source locally if you're in a bind.

B&W 804 and HTM | Emotiva ERD-1 | DIY 18" Sub
Emotiva XMC-1 | XPA-2 | XPA-5 | Crown XLS 2502
Samsung 58" Plasma | BenQ HT1075 100" Screen
Amazon Fire TV with XMBC | Oppo BDP-103 Bluray Player
Mogami and Blue Jeans Cables
ATS and DIY Acoustic Panels
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post #3859 of 3862 Old 06-11-2016, 09:55 AM
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I bought this wire except without the banana plugs. I got it cause its a very beefy speaker wire and i liked the thickness of the jacket. It cost .99 a foot. I didnt need large runs. The longest run i have is 6 ft so.....and i only used it for L/C/R's of the system and the 2 subs. I spent like 30.00. For the surrounds i will be purchaseing the monoprice 14awg cause of the longer runs.
The longer the run the larger the gauge wire you should use, not the opposite. The Monoprice 12awg CL2 #2817 that I use is $32.91 for a 100 foot long roll.

System includes KEF R500 floor standing, R200C center, R100 surrounds, SVS SB2000 subwoofer, NAD T758 receiver, Pro-Ject RPM1 turntable w/ Sumiko Pearl cartridge, Bluesound Vault, Sony BDP-S480 BlueRay player, Samsung UN55JU6500F 4K LED TV, KEF M500 headphones, Sony CDP-CE500 CD changer, MCS System cassette deck. The last 2 items are dust collectors but will work if asked.
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post #3860 of 3862 Old 06-11-2016, 10:39 AM
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The longer the run the larger the gauge wire you should use, not the opposite. The Monoprice 12awg CL2 #2817 that I use is $32.91 for a 100 foot long roll.
Very true.
I dont have a long or deep room. My seating position is about 9 ft from the screen😔 Not a large room at all.
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post #3861 of 3862 Old 06-12-2016, 10:44 AM
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FWIW - I know, I've not posted any pics. yet as promised loooong ago. I'm trying to iron out issues I'm having with hum/buzz in my speakers. This has necessitated a lot of connecting and disconnecting the speaker cables. I used Sewell Deadbolts on one end (amp side) and the GLS Audio black chrome ones on the speaker side since they look snazzier and those are the ones you can see.

Well, the Sewells have not held up as well as the GLS Audio ones. They are becoming increasingly loose. Not that the GLS haven't loosened a bit, but they are much tighter than the Sewells for an equal number of connects and disconnects. I'm probably going to switch out the Sewells for the GLS across the board. Granted, most people probably never have to disconnect so often, so generally I think they're fine.

When I iron out my issues once and for all, I'll post pics of whatever final product I end up making.
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post #3862 of 3862 Old Today, 10:03 PM
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I'm changing my location and cables will be visible and falling off the fireplace. Amp will be in the box.

Currently using outdoor low volt cable however it's too stiff for my use.

Anyone recommend a flexible cable that will flow with the lines not be so rigid?

[img=http://s32.postimg.org/9g7os6aqp/DSC_0014.jpg]

Last edited by hyperactiveme; Today at 10:08 PM.
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