Cambridge Audio Minx Satellite Speakers and Home Theater Systems Discussion Thread - Page 89 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2641 of 2664 Unread 02-12-2017, 01:40 AM
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Hi everyone I'm about ready to buy a whole new system which will be a step-up from my old Panasonic blu ray out of the box 5.1.
I am looking at adding a pair of Cambridge Audio Minx 22 for Atmos/Dtsx but am not sure where to place them so would be grateful for some help.
Mounting on the ceiling is a no go so that leaves me with three options.
1. Front height above fronts near ceiling angled down.
2. Height side
3. Rear height angled down.

With the side and rear the speaker wouldn't be to far from being overhead as my sofa is at the back of the room and the sides would have to be at the end of my curtain pole which would place the speakers in direct line with the mlp but just out to the side.
I'm looking at getting the Denon 2300 and the Dali Zensor Pico.
Can provide some pictures of my room if that would help.
Hope someone can give me some advice as I want to get all the info before I but which hopefully will be soon.

Thanks for any help
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post #2642 of 2664 Unread 02-12-2017, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mrtea_32 View Post
..Can provide some pictures of my room if that would help.
Hope someone can give me some advice as I want to get all the info before I but which hopefully will be soon.

Thanks for any help
A sketch showing the layout of your listening room, with the ear level floor speakers, Main Listening Position (MLP) and relative distance to each ear level floor speakers would be useful.

The key is having angular separation between the ear level speakers and ceiling speakers.

Also ensure that there is angular separation with the ear level floor speakers.

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post #2643 of 2664 Unread 02-12-2017, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
A sketch showing the layout of your listening room, with the ear level floor speakers, Main Listening Position (MLP) and relative distance to each ear level floor speakers would be useful.

The key is having angular separation between the ear level speakers and ceiling speakers.

Also ensure that there is angular separation with the ear level floor speakers.
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Sorry for rubbish sketch but option A Front heights will be about 2 ft above front speakers, mlp is about 10ft from them.
Option B side heights level with mlp and around 2ft above rears.
Option c rear heights around 2 ft above rears.
Hope this helps
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post #2644 of 2664 Unread 02-12-2017, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrtea_32 View Post
Attachment 1961345
Sorry for rubbish sketch but option A Front heights will be about 2 ft above front speakers, mlp is about 10ft from them.
Option B side heights level with mlp and around 2ft above rears.
Option c rear heights around 2 ft above rears.
Hope this helps
Hi Mrtea_32,

If no one has said so, welcome to AVS!

Thanks for the sketch, it does help a bit to understand your room and current setup. Not a bad first time effort!

Any possibility of re-positioning the speakers and/or Main Listening Position (MLP)? The reason being that with the MLP hard up against the wall, the bass frequencies will be at their peak so there will be a lot of inconsistency in terms of the lower octaves. I.e. there will be a lot of variability from seat to seat.

If the listening room's front to back distance is 10', might want to consider pulling forward the MLP by 1/3. Is this possible? If so, it will help improve the sound experience by doing a number of things. Including better angular separation between the MLP to the FL/FR speakers as well as the surrounds. You might be able to achieve the golden ratio of an equilateral triangle between the MLP to the FL/FR. What angular separation do you have now with the MLP 10' behind the FL/FR speakers? Is the center (C) speaker at 0 deg to the MLP? The other benefit of moving up the MLP is minimize the effects of room modes.

With the MLP also pulled forward, the Surround Left (SL) and Surround Right (SR) are now behind the listener. Ideally the the SL/SR should be 110 to 120 deg to the MLP. This is much better than the current position of having them at 90 deg to the MLP, as the intent is to have a ring of speakers surrounding the MLP rather than leaving a 'gap' behind you.

Also with the MLP pulled forward, you can place the front heights above the FL/FR speakers and check that the angular separation to the MLP is at least 30 deg. The same for the rear height speakers, check that it is at least 30 deg up from the MLP. Picture below will help visualize the front height and rear height angles.


What is the current ear height of the FL/FR tweeters? I.e. floor to tweeter height? If the intent is to place the front height speakers 2' above the FL/FR, how high with the Min22 be above the floor? With this, one can determine the angular separation of the front height to the MLP.

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post #2645 of 2664 Unread 02-13-2017, 10:46 PM
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Hi thanks for the welcome.
My new speakers will be 1.4 metres from the floor and the Minx would be another one metre above them angled down with about 40 degree Angle and wall mounted, Would that be OK to work for Atmos/ Dtsx?
Rears would be 1.4 of the ground and again wall mounted.
No chance of changing the mlp or moving the room, trust me I've tried that argument multiple times.
Hope this helps explain my situation and thanks for the help
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post #2646 of 2664 Unread 02-14-2017, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mrtea_32 View Post
Hi thanks for the welcome.
My new speakers will be 1.4 metres from the floor and the Minx would be another one metre above them angled down with about 40 degree Angle and wall mounted, Would that be OK to work for Atmos/ Dtsx?
Rears would be 1.4 of the ground and again wall mounted.
No chance of changing the mlp or moving the room, trust me I've tried that argument multiple times.
Hope this helps explain my situation and thanks for the help
Hi Mrtea_32,

If you're unable to move the MLP, the front heights are going to be a problem as the minimum angular separation of 30 deg between the ear level and height speakers is 4.4m, since the MLP is 10m from the FL/FR speakers. Not sure how tall your floor to ceiling height is, but it's highly unlikely you have such clearance. The front sound stage will be compressed (like a stacked pancake) rather than spherical (think like a ball).

The rear heights should be okay and depends how far behind they will be from the MLP?

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OK thanks definitely sounds like front height would be a no go.
I would only be able to do 5.1.2 so would rear heights alone work for Atmos.
The rear heights would be 2.3 metres from the floor and rear surrounds 1.4.
Like I mentioned the sofa is up against the back wall so both surround and heights would just be slightly behind the mlp.
Would this work or is is better for me to forget it?
Thanks
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ID:	1965961 this should give you a better idea. From ground to ceiling it's 2.4 metres.
If I placed them at the side they would be just to the right of the mlp and the other at the side of the door
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post #2649 of 2664 Unread 02-14-2017, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mrtea_32 View Post
OK thanks definitely sounds like front height would be a no go.
I would only be able to do 5.1.2 so would rear heights alone work for Atmos.
The rear heights would be 2.3 metres from the floor and rear surrounds 1.4.
Like I mentioned the sofa is up against the back wall so both surround and heights would just be slightly behind the mlp.
Would this work or is is better for me to forget it?
Thanks
Just a thought, is the ceiling flat and has a reflective surface? I.e. can bounce sound signals off the ceiling and have it land in front of the MLP?

If so, you can still go with a 5.1.4 setup by using Dolby Atmos enabled speakers to simulate the top front speakers (1st set of ceiling speakers) and still mount the Min22 as the rear heights for the 2nd set of ceiling speakers.

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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post
Just a thought, is the ceiling flat and has a reflective surface? I.e. can bounce sound signals off the ceiling and have it land in front of the MLP?

If so, you can still go with a 5.1.4 setup by using Dolby Atmos enabled speakers to simulate the top front speakers (1st set of ceiling speakers) and still mount the Min22 as the rear heights for the 2nd set of ceiling speakers.
Yeah the ceiling is nice and flat so would reflect sound well but heard mixed reviews about them. I can only have 1 set of Atmos speakers so 5.1.2 is my limit.
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post #2651 of 2664 Unread 02-14-2017, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Mrtea_32 View Post
Yeah the ceiling is nice and flat so would reflect sound well but heard mixed reviews about them. I can only have 1 set of Atmos speakers so 5.1.2 is my limit.
As you're limited to a 5.1.2 Atmos speaker setup, then you can only have one pair of ceiling speakers.

The Front Heights (FH) are impractical due to the long distance between the MLP and FH speakers. So just install a pair of Min22 above your MLP and designate them as Top Middle (TM) to get your 5.1.2 Atmos setup.

As you intend to install the Min22 on the back wall about 2.3m from the floor and with the surrounds at 1.4m from the floor, that makes a differential between them at 0.9m. The question comes to what angle the TM speakers will be to your seating position (MLP) and that depends on how far from the back wall the MLP is? Based on the 0.9m differential, the maximum distance the MLP from the back wall is 0.15m, to make the angular separation of 100 deg. As you're hard up against the back wall, this shouldn't be an issue. You might also want to angle the Min22 down to the MLP and have it aligned with the FL/FH speakers as shown in the previous diagram.

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Question

Hello all,

I am thinking about (3) 22's and (4) 11's for a 7.1 in a 20x30' apartment room with neighbors downstairs... Pioneer 1121k receiver.

I read the 1st 15 pages or so until my ears started to bleed and understand the subs from Cambridge are not very upper extended.

What is a good small subwoofer that is relatively flat out to 150 or 200hz so no sound holes?
Is there a consensus on something not too pricey?

Thanks.
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Question

Hello all,

I just ordered (2) Minx 22's for test only to compare to my current Jamo S-35's which I have in a 7.1 system. I love the open sound of the Jamos (Omni-sat), but they sound too bright with the wrong sound tracks... The receiver is a Denon 4200 which is also on the bright side, and I just got a SVS-1000 sub which is so good.

Questions:

If I like these, could I go (2) 22's in front, and the single units on the side and back? The room is 20' x 25' and very irregular...

Also, if I go Atmos, should I go single or double (22's) for front high?

What would be the best combination off 22's and 12's in a 7.1 or a 5.1.2?


Thanks!
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post #2654 of 2664 Unread 03-12-2017, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ace5000 View Post
Hello all,

I just ordered (2) Minx 22's for test only to compare to my current Jamo S-35's which I have in a 7.1 system. I love the open sound of the Jamos (Omni-sat), but they sound too bright with the wrong sound tracks... The receiver is a Denon 4200 which is also on the bright side, and I just got a SVS-1000 sub which is so good.

Questions:

If I like these, could I go (2) 22's in front, and the single units on the side and back? The room is 20' x 25' and very irregular...

Also, if I go Atmos, should I go single or double (22's) for front high?

What would be the best combination off 22's and 12's in a 7.1 or a 5.1.2?


Thanks!
Hi ace5000,

If you have the SVS SB-1000 sub, it'll be a good match with the Min22 as the crossover can go as high as 200Hz. If you get a pair of SB-1000 subs, it will help smooth out the bass in the room and help deal with the room modes.

Not sure if you have the port box (PB) version of the 1000 series from SVS.

The front sound stage is the most important, so going with three Min22 for the LCR and the rest being Min11 is doable.

If you're finding the sound to be too bright, toe-in the speakers to the Main Listening Position (MLP) when doing the Audyssey auto-calibration. When the speakers are not toed-in, the tweeters may have additional correction filters applied that will boost the high frequencies to compensate the fact that they are not facing the MLP.

You might also want to try the energy trading trick in toeing in the front speakers, where the front left speaker is pointing the farther most point behind the MLP and viz-a-viz the front right speaker.

Also note that if you implement Dynamic EQ and listen at low levels, Audyssey will boost the high frequencies to make it sound louder (brighter) to match reference level.

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Used to have the 525v2 speaker pack. Sold them and went to Kef but loved what they could do. I reckon a small room like a bedroom or office would be great for these small coke can sized speakers in a Dolby Atmos 7.1.4 setup. Has anyone tried it? I know they dont have much low end bass due to size but the fact they dont need much to power them and the size of the speakers making them easy to place surely helps them be attractive. I feel like going to my local store and seeing if I can get them to round up all there minx speakers and set them up with 4 heights on tripods.
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post #2656 of 2664 Unread 03-12-2017, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by steveting99 View Post

You might also want to try the energy trading trick in toeing in the front speakers, where the front left speaker is pointing the farther most point behind the MLP and viz-a-viz the front right speaker.
Hello and thanks for your kind response. However, I don't understand the right vs left trick.

It is the sealed SB-1000 sub bty.

Also, have you heard these Minx's vs the Kef E305 eggs?

Thanks!

Last edited by ace5000; 03-12-2017 at 05:41 PM.
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Hello and thanks for your kind response. However, I don't understand the right vs left trick...
Depending on the design of the speakers, the tweeter's output is more or less "beamed" as the frequency gets higher. If the speakers aren't pointed toward the Audyssey microphone, the mic won't be able to hear the highest frequencies very well.

Speakers sound shrill after running Audyssey because the mic can't hear the highest frequencies. As a result, the calibration software boosts them to compensate.

Exactly how much you'll have to toe in the speakers to compensate for the "beaming" depends on the details of the speaker design. Energy trading is what some people like to use. This is when the speakers have "equal energy" orientation; i.e. point the speakers toward the opposite side of the seating, with the left speaker pointed toward the right side and vice versa. This puts the closest seat off-axis, thus reducing the audio level there, while the audio level at the farthest seat is reduced by distance. As a result, their "cross-over" point is in front of the main listening position.

Quote:
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...It is the sealed SB-1000 sub bty.
The SB-1000 will be a good match with the Min22 or Min11. A pair of SB-1000 would be better to help even out the bass and minimize sub localization. I.e. you hear both the sub + speakers playing at near the crossover frequency rather than the illusion that all the frequencies are being reproduced by the speakers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ace5000 View Post
...Also, have you heard these Minx's vs the Kef E305 eggs?

Thanks!
I did audition both and preferred the concentric sound signature of the KEF Uni-Q drivers. The stylish egg shape design of the KEF helped with Wife Acceptance Factor (WAF). Your Mileage May Vary (YMMV) as the saying goes.

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Last edited by steveting99; 03-13-2017 at 12:28 AM. Reason: typo and additional text
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... I did audition both and preferred the concentric sound signature of the KEF Uni-Q drivers. The stylish egg shape design of the KEF helped with Wife Acceptance Factor (WAF). Your Mileage May Vary (YMMV) as the saying goes.
What crossover do you use with the KEF eggs?
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What crossover do you use with the KEF eggs?
The KEF E301s are good to 90Hz. This is the initial setting via Audyssey.

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Thinking of 22's as surrounds/rears - any recommendations on a nice, reasonably priced floor stand for the minx?

Preferably something height adjustable but not a deal breaker.
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Originally Posted by sdg4vfx View Post
Thinking of 22's as surrounds/rears - any recommendations on a nice, reasonably priced floor stand for the minx?

Preferably something height adjustable but not a deal breaker.
bump
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very small house, want a 5.1 system for movie
subwoofer would be yamaha FSW050/ FSW150 coz it's compact and vertical positioning.

i already brought a yamaha rx-v481 AVR ...
Rated Output Power (1kHz, 1ch driven) 115 W (8 ohms, 0.9% THD)
Rated Output Power (20Hz-20kHz, 2ch driven) 80 W (8 ohms, 0.09% THD)
Dynamic Power per Channel (8/6/4/2 ohms) 110 / 130 / 160 / 180 W

Min 10 is 15-50w, 8ohms
So does it mean the Min 10 will be blown by the amp easily?

or it's safe if the volume of AVR is no more than 50% ? (volume = power supply to speaker?)
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Originally Posted by yashiharu View Post
very small house, want a 5.1 system for movie
subwoofer would be yamaha FSW050/ FSW150 coz it's compact and vertical positioning.

i already brought a yamaha rx-v481 AVR ...
Rated Output Power (1kHz, 1ch driven) 115 W (8 ohms, 0.9% THD)
Rated Output Power (20Hz-20kHz, 2ch driven) 80 W (8 ohms, 0.09% THD)
Dynamic Power per Channel (8/6/4/2 ohms) 110 / 130 / 160 / 180 W

Min 10 is 15-50w, 8ohms
So does it mean the Min 10 will be blown by the amp easily?

or it's safe if the volume of AVR is no more than 50% ? (volume = power supply to speaker?)
All channels driven, you will be lucky to get 35 watts per channel out of that receiver, so no issue with power handling. I wouldn't worry about it, unless you have a very large room or crank the volume to ear-splitting levels.
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All channels driven, you will be lucky to get 35 watts per channel out of that receiver, so no issue with power handling. I wouldn't worry about it, unless you have a very large room or crank the volume to ear-splitting levels.
thank you for clearing that up

how can you get 35w per channel (5channel) in math?
1 ch 115w
2 ch 80w
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