I'd prefer to leave the specific recommendations to the guys who are more frequent posters in this forum - I don't follow the speaker market that closely - but there may be some expectations and requirements that will be hard to meet.
I know from your other threads that you have allowed for the screen to be 1 foot from the wall, and you've been instructed that the speaker face shouldn't be closer than 6 inches from the back of the screen. This was a reasonable space limitation for the soundcubes, but it's going to make anything other than in-wall designs very difficult to fit. There are good in-wall designs if that's the way you decide to go, but that should be a carefully made decision. In-walls are not going to be readily adjustable in terms of position or upgrade-able in the future. On the other hand, re-positioning the screen at this point in your design process may have extensive ripple effects - maybe not.
Strictly speaking, you don't need to have a receiver or processor that's advertised as 7.2 in order to operate 2 subs. It's nice to use one like that, because it may (or may not - you'll need to do specific research, and I don't know about the receiver you've listed) allow for independent calibration settings within the receiver itself. On the other hand, more complete calibration settings can be made with the use of dedicated outboard processing, but that can add significant complexity and expense. Still, subs with on-board (or separate, if one is provided for each sub) amps can provide their own basic calibration settings from the same output signal. That is to say, most sub amps have gain, phase, and high-pass (and sometimes other) filters built into them. You can use a simple splitter to feed each amp the same line-level signal from the receiver/processor and adjust the subs independently through their amps.
100W is nice power to have, but consider the way you'll use that power and how much difference a watt makes. The logarithmic nature of sound means that increasing sound pressure level by 3dB requires a doubling of input power to the loudspeaker. For a typical bookshelf speaker you could find at a major electronics store (or most any pace you buy speakers) you might expect that 1W input could produce around 85 dB spl at a distance of 1 meter. This, or some similar methodology describes the speaker's sensitivity. Listening at 1 meter distance, you'd need 2W for 88dB, 4W for 91dB, 8W for93, 16W for 96, 32W for 99, 64W for 102, and 128W per channel (all seven driven) for THX reference 105dB. Similarly, sound levels tend to drop off by about 3 dB with every doubling of distance. So listening from 2m is like cutting your power in half (or doubling your power needs). Your listening distance is closer to 3 meters which makes for harder math, but the trend is pretty clear, right? For a variety of reasons, you may not want THX reference level, but here's the point: the difference of 10 or 20 watts power on your amp is hard to get excited over, because it will only make a dB or two difference. Further, the way to getting satisfyingly loud movies without hundreds of watts is through higher sensitivity. Speakers designed specifically for home theater tend to have sensitivities above 90-92 dB, some fairly common designs are around 96 dB, and there are those over 100.
Don't let this description be the only thing driving a selection decision, but I think it needed to be laid out there.