In case some of you are wondering which way I'm headed on the speakers:
I'm now trying to decide between:
Option 1. Genelec - M040 (LCR), M030 (SL/SR)
Option 2. Genelec - G4 (LR), G3 (C/SL/SR)
The M040 is about the same price as the G3, and the M030 is about the price of a G2 - that means with M040 - I could go for 3 units for LCR as recommended by you whereas with G4, I would be able to go for only 2.
Have you heard the M040/M030? What are your impressions?
Could you help me in choosing between M040, M030 vs G4, G3
As far as I can tell the differences are:
1. Cabinet Type: G Series (Aluminum) vs M Series (Wood fiber composite) - Other than slightly lower-cost and eco-friendly nature of the composites are there any performance differences or advantages over the Aluminum cabinet?
2. Amplifier Type: G Series (Class A/B) vs M Series (Class D) - Apart from energy efficiency are there any advantages in Class D for performance/fidelity or reducing noise that make it better than Class A/B?
3. Amplifier Power: G4 (90W, 90W) vs M040 (50W, 80W) and G3 (40W, 40W) vs M030 (30W, 50W). This means there will be performance differences but to what extent?
4. Frequency Response: G4 (45Hz-21kHz) vs M040 (48Hz-20kHz) and G3 (55Hz-21kHz) vs M030 (58Hz-21kHz)
5. SPL (avg from 100Hz-3kHz @1m): G4 (105dB) vs M040 (107dB) and G3 (100dB) vs M030 (103dB)
6. Input connection options: G Series (RCA, XLR) vs M Series (RCA, XLR, 1/4" Jack)
7. Mains Power: G Series (cannot be adjusted) vs M Series (automatically senses voltage and adjusts with 10%FoS)
8. Appearance: G Series has Glossy metallic black finish vs M Series offers Patterned vs Glossy black finish
9. Stands: G Series (Adjustable on Isopod) vs M Series (Integrated with cabinet body)
10. Product line: G Series very few differences with 8000 series, M series considerable differences with 8000 series
Any other technical/performance differences?
and based on the above list of differences - I'm not quite sure which option to select? Any advice?
Personally I like the idea of Aluminum cabinets and the look of G4 on Iso-pod slightly better than the M series which has the advantage of much lower price and regional flexibility - but the most important factor is performance (fidelity and low distortion) - and on this particular factor which is better?
The G Series which is very similar to tried, tested and popular 8000 series - or the M series which is considerably different from 8000 series?
The price differences are considerable - hence the decision is slightly harder.
As for the sub...
The Genelec 7060 is great but the price vs performance is slightly unfavorable when compared to the multitude of options out there...
My requirements are something along the lines of what the Acoustic Energy Pro-Sub and Sunfire TS-EQ-10 offer... (due to size limitations under the WAF)
These are the only manufactured subs that somewhat meet my size and performance criteria but the Sunfire fails on the country of origin and the unknown SQ and not many have heard or heard-of the Acoustic Energy Pro-Sub.
I may be trying for a custom (through Seaton, Rhythmik, JTR, Selah, Funk) - if it falls within my budget or I may go for a DIY route and by now its clear that I'd have to be ok with something that has some Chinese components for where its absolutely needed...
I think if the custom made options turn-out to be expensive/unviable - I will keep my options open for a DIY -
In which case should I consider drivers from Peerless Fabrikkerne India?
How good are their 10", 12" drivers in comparison to whatever else is the best in this segment?
It may save me quite a bit on hassles with the notoriously corrupt and inefficient Indian customs and the high duties...and the weakening Rupee (just went down by 15% in the last month) has put serious dents into my original budgets...
If not which makes and models are the best drivers for 10" or 12" sub-woofers?
What is the ideal material for a subwoofer driver if price were no concern?
Aluminum, paper, kevlar etc?
What is the ideal material for a subwoofer cabinet if price were no concern?
MDF, Hard-wood, Solid Aluminum, GRP (fiberglass) - any others?
If Hardwood works as good as or better than MDF in teh resonance dept - then I know West African Ebony (Diospyros crassiflora) (used for piano keys) will be the ideal - but not available easily and too expensive...
which other ones? - I can get some really good solid hardwoods like teak, sheesham (Dalbergia sissoo), mango wood, jack wood, african padauk (pterocarpus) etc..
if you guys have any other ideas - do chime in...
so I will keep you all posted...