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post #1 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Best Speakers for $2000

I'm looking for some suggestions for a pair of floor standing speakers in the $1500-$2000 range. My room is fairly small at around 10x12 and with my couch placement, being a couple of feet from the wall, makes the seating roughly 8 feet to the wall, so I need to have the speakers as close to the wall as i can. I currently have a decent 5.2 set up and satisfied with it for HT purposes and looking for speakers for purely stereo listening. The amp I'm using is a Marantz 7007. I literally listen to all kinds of music except country and pop, but would like the speakers more tailored for music with high dynamic range ie jazz.
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post #2 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 07:24 PM
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For $2000, their is lots of good choice.
Opinion differ for speakers since we don't all have the same preference.

These are the ones that I got and I LOVE them
http://www.aperionaudio.com/speakers...-tower-speaker
They have a neutral sound and sound outstanding and the finish is also perfect.
Mine are black, a pain to keep clean due to the piano gloss finish but they do look good.

Read the reviews, pro and customers and do the same for all other recomendations.

Best of luck in your search.

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post #3 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 07:24 PM
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Room is too small to truly get the most out of floor standing you should consider bookshelf speakers.
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post #4 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothingspecial View Post
Room is too small to truly get the most out of floor standing you should consider bookshelf speakers.
I agree, M22's at "Axiomaudio.com" would be a great fit with a nice sub....and free shipping with 30 day trial

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post #5 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 07:37 PM
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what kind of music do you listen to and how loud also? and will you be using a sub?

i am a big klipsch fan and i have a pair of cornwalls in my 2 channel setup as well as a pair of rf-63's that i love. both excel at music and home theater to my ears.

some time ago i heard a pair of salk's i believe they were the ht2-tl and they were absolutely fantastic for music. i mean wow! i agree with above about maybe just going with bookshelves.
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post #6 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 07:45 PM
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Bookshelf with a stand take the same space as a slim designed tower.
A good sub demand volume (size wise) and cannot always be accomated due to room restriction.

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post #7 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Scrappydue View Post
what kind of music do you listen to and how loud also? and will you be using a sub?

i am a big klipsch fan and i have a pair of cornwalls in my 2 channel setup as well as a pair of rf-63's that i love. both excel at music and home theater to my ears.

some time ago i heard a pair of salk's i believe they were the ht2-tl and they were absolutely fantastic for music. i mean wow! i agree with above about maybe just going with bookshelves.
I currently have 2 10" subs and have 2 JBL NL200 floorstanding as my fronts that I would move as surrounds and move my current surrounds up for a 7.2 system. I guess I'm looking for floorstanding more for ascetics then anything. Also I am looking for something with better frequency response to go along with my new TT.
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post #8 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Hambone8255 View Post
I currently have 2 10" subs and have 2 JBL NL200 floorstanding as my fronts that I would move as surrounds and move my current surrounds up for a 7.2 system. I guess I'm looking for floorstanding more for ascetics then anything. Also I am looking for something with better frequency response to go along with my new TT.
wouldn't you want all matching speakers? there is now way i would break up a matching 5.1 setup to throw in some random towers to excel with music. what center do you have?
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post #9 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
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wouldn't you want all matching speakers? there is now way i would break up a matching 5.1 setup to throw in some random towers to excel with music. what center do you have?
I don't watch tv/cable at all and watch movies once or twice a month, if that, so music makes up for 95% of my system use. Everything I have is black so thought it would be relatively easy to to match something.
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post #10 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 08:39 PM
 
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Many good options in this price range Hambone.

My pick at the moment is the recently discontinued PSB Synchrony Two. These speakers where second only to the Synchrony One (~$6000/pr) in PSB's lineup and are simply an outstanding loudpeaker. They would be a class or two above anything else at this price point (in my opinion of course).

They would not normally be within a bull's roar of your budget, but Crutchfield (Outlet) have Scratch & Dent models for $1000 each.

Importantly for your situation, the Two's are a triple ported (individual chambers) speaker that come with port plug. This will enable you tune the bass response if necessary to tame any exaggerated bass due to near-wall placement.

They are a 4Ω (nom/min) impedance speaker, but that should pose no problems for your Marantz given your 8' listening distance and intended stereo usage.

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post #11 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hambone8255 View Post
I'm looking for some suggestions for a pair of floor standing speakers in the $1500-$2000 range. My room is fairly small at around 10x12 and with my couch placement, being a couple of feet from the wall, makes the seating roughly 8 feet to the wall, so I need to have the speakers as close to the wall as i can. I currently have a decent 5.2 set up and satisfied with it for HT purposes and looking for speakers for purely stereo listening. The amp I'm using is a Marantz 7007. I literally listen to all kinds of music except country and pop, but would like the speakers more tailored for music with high dynamic range ie jazz.
Golden Ear Technology Triton 7. /thread

check the reviews
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post #12 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 09:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Golden Ear Technology Triton 7. /thread

check the reviews
Thanks for the suggestion. Found a dealer close and going to see if they have a set to demo tomorrow.
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post #13 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 09:50 PM
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Also look at the Focal 836V - a real good price
http://www.musicdirect.com/p-139685-...eakers-pr.aspx

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post #14 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Bookshelf with a stand take the same space as a slim designed tower.
A good sub demand volume (size wise) and cannot always be accomated due to room restriction.

Ray

In my experience in a small room towers just don't perform well.
Maybe it's possible for them to but I haven't experienced it.
Bookshelves work really well sound better you even get pretty good sounding bass out of bookshelves with a small room.
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post #15 of 36 Old 06-29-2014, 10:30 PM
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Also look at the Focal 836V - a real good price
http://www.musicdirect.com/p-139685-...eakers-pr.aspx
I agree. I own a pair of Focal 826Vs and love the details in the mids and highs. Great speakers for jazz and classical. They're 8 ohms and relatively efficient too so most decent amps/receivers aren't going to have problems making them sound their best. Also, they're front ported, which is nice given that they need to be placed against a wall.

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post #16 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 02:55 AM
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I agree with your decision to get a pair of good floor standing speakers even if your room is currently too small for them. Assuming that you will upgrade to a larger house sometime in the near future, you will be purchasing speakers that will work for you when you make that next move. Speakers are one component of a HT system that you can keep and use for years to come, so thinking about the future when you purchase speakers is always a good idea. Just my 2c worth!
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post #17 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 04:24 AM
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+1 on the Golden Ear recommendation, though if you plan to listen to these full range you may want to step up to the Triton Three tower. It has a powered sub, and would do a pretty good job filling that small room with bass.

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post #18 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
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I agree. I own a pair of Focal 826Vs and love the details in the mids and highs. Great speakers for jazz and classical. They're 8 ohms and relatively efficient too so most decent amps/receivers aren't going to have problems making them sound their best. Also, they're front ported, which is nice given that they need to be placed against a wall.
Before starting this thread, Focal was at the top of my list as I have Focal in my vehicle and love them. Unfortunatly the dealer in my area that sells Focal for home audio has a reputation for being pushy and arrogant and I got a taste of this myself when I had to hear about the salemen's $40000 system when I went in to buy a $20 stylus brush for my TT. I will go and give the 826Vs a listen, if they have them on demo, but want to exhaust all other options first so it's a simple yes or no while I am there.
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post #19 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 08:12 AM
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I highly recommend the RBH SX-6300/R towers. MSRP is higher than $2K, but street price should be a lot lower.

The R-series (Reference) use the same Status Acoustics drivers found in their $50,000 8T tower.
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post #20 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I highly recommend the RBH SX-6300/R towers. MSRP is higher than $2K, but street price should be a lot lower.

The R-series (Reference) use the same Status Acoustics drivers found in their $50,000 8T tower.
They look good, but I think because of my room constraints, I am limited to either front porting or passive radiators.
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post #21 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 10:14 AM
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They look good, but I think because of my room constraints, I am limited to either front porting or passive radiators.
I don't see it that way.

One unique feature about these RBH towers is that you can independently control the bass output of the built-in subwoofers using an external amp (like a $200 Dayton SA230 solid state class A/B amp or $290 Crown XLS1000 class-D amp) or any spare amp you have.

All you do is output the LFE from your AVR to the amp and then from the amp to the lower portion of the tower. The top portion gets the speaker wires from the AVR. The bottom portion gets the speaker wires from the external amp.

This is called ACTIVE bi-amp, as opposed to most speakers that can only be passively bi-amped. So if the bass is too much, you just lower the bass amount. If the bass is too little, you increase the bass amount.
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post #22 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 03:50 PM
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I've been very happy with my Totem Hawks in a medium-sized room. Totems are notable for producing clean, strong bass from comparatively small enclosures, so they're especially good for small rooms if you like the complexion of their sound. Even smaller Totem models are the Arro and Sttaf. Your receiver would do fine with any of these three models.
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post #23 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post
I don't see it that way.

One unique feature about these RBH towers is that you can independently control the bass output of the built-in subwoofers using an external amp (like a $200 Dayton SA230 solid state class A/B amp or $290 Crown XLS1000 class-D amp) or any spare amp you have.

All you do is output the LFE from your AVR to the amp and then from the amp to the lower portion of the tower. The top portion gets the speaker wires from the AVR. The bottom portion gets the speaker wires from the external amp.

This is called ACTIVE bi-amp, as opposed to most speakers that can only be passively bi-amped. So if the bass is too much, you just lower the bass amount. If the bass is too little, you increase the bass amount.


That's very cool! That could come in very handy for guys like me (if they decided to go towers only - no subs) that constantly tweak subs using the sub trim on the avr depending on the artist/mood/etc.

With most towers you obviously can't do that unless you have some form of dsp in between the avr and the amp.
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post #24 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
That's very cool! That could come in very handy for guys like me (if they decided to go towers only - no subs) that constantly tweak subs using the sub trim on the avr depending on the artist/mood/etc.

With most towers you obviously can't do that unless you have some form of dsp in between the avr and the amp.
Nice room! and lots of small details!


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post #25 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 10:39 PM
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Thanks Ray!


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post #26 of 36 Old 06-30-2014, 11:06 PM
 
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They look good, but I think because of my room constraints, I am limited to either front porting or passive radiators.
Hambone, at the bass frequencies produced by the ports (or passive radiators), sound is propogating into the room in an omnidirectional manner around the speaker. (See illustration at the bottom of page 9 in this Harman whitepaper.) So the actual location of the ports/radiators makes very little difference and you will get reinforcement and cancellation of bass frequencies depending on the proximity of the speaker to the wall(s) and other boundaries in either case.

The PSB Synchrony Two I mentioned above, and also the PSB Imagine line, offer flexibility with respect to placement because it's ports come with plugs to enable you to "tune" the bass response depending on the proximity of boundaries. For example, you could plug two ports to tame boomy bass caused by having the speaker positioned fairly tightly in a corner, or leave the ports open for a speaker positioned well out into the room.

You'll probably find Stereophile's measurements and commentary of the "big brother" Synchrony One useful. (I couldn't find similar for the Sych Two.) In that set of measurements, the trace of each port's output is shown (Fig. 3). Looking at the traces, you will note that if bass management to a sub is envoked at (say) an 80Hz crossover with a 24dB/octave HPF, the ports will not be required to produce a great deal of bass output anyway.

Hope that helps.
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post #27 of 36 Old 07-01-2014, 07:13 AM
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With most towers you obviously can't do that unless you have some form of dsp in between the avr and the amp.
I think the only way to do that (actively bi-amp the bass) in most passive towers is to remove the internal crossovers. Even with DSP, you can't independently adjust and EQ the bass unless the crossover is bypassed.

But the RBH towers are set up so that when you remove the jumpers, the treble/midrange top portion binding posts and the bottom bass portion binding posts become 2 independent speakers. And that is why you are able to actively bi-amp the RBH towers.

It doesn't seem possible. Too easy and good to be true. But I've talked to the RBH chief engineer. I'm not technical enough to fully comprehend (or to debate with certain forum members who believe they are smarter than Shane Rich). But Shane Rich, the chief engineer, has been designing speakers for them for over 20 years. I've seen the hookup with own eyes and heard the sound. When the jumpers are removed, the top and bottom portions of the towers become 2 independent speakers. Very "simplistically" cool.

Simply adjusting the external sub amp volume will adjust the bass amount in the towers.

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post #28 of 36 Old 07-01-2014, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post
I think the only way to do that (actively bi-amp the bass) in most passive towers is to remove the internal crossovers. Even with DSP, you can't independently adjust and EQ the bass unless the crossover is bypassed.

But the RBH towers are set up so that when you remove the jumpers, the treble/midrange top portion binding posts and the bottom bass portion binding posts become 2 independent speakers. And that is why you are able to actively bi-amp the RBH towers.

It doesn't seem possible. Too easy and good to be true. But I've talked to the RBH chief engineer. I'm not technical enough to fully comprehend (or to debate with certain forum members who believe they are smarter than Shane Rich). But Shane Rich, the chief engineer, has been designing speakers for them for over 20 years. I've seen the hookup with own eyes and heard the sound. When the jumpers are removed, the top and bottom portions of the towers become 2 independent speakers. Very "simplistically" cool.

Simply adjusting the external sub amp volume will adjust the bass amount in the towers.
Dont all bi amp able speakers split the signal when the jumpers are removed?
I have never own bi amp able speakers so i really dont know.
For example, if a pair of speakers are designed to be able to bi amp and if you remove the jumpers and connect only either the top or bottom binding post , wouldnt only the mids/highs or lows will play?
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post #29 of 36 Old 07-01-2014, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by AcuDefTechGuy View Post
I think the only way to do that (actively bi-amp the bass) in most passive towers is to remove the internal crossovers. Even with DSP, you can't independently adjust and EQ the bass unless the crossover is bypassed.
Maybe I don't understand what you are saying (ha, good chance of that actually ), but here is what I meant.

With my towers if I don't want to use my subs but want to be able to bump up the bass I can use either my minidsp or the dsp on my inuke amp that powers the mains. My laptop remotely controls my PC (where my minidsp and inuke are connected to) so I can change the bass on the fly as I'm listening to music.


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post #30 of 36 Old 07-01-2014, 09:42 AM
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Dont all bi amp able speakers split the signal when the jumpers are removed?
I have never own bi amp able speakers so i really dont know.
For example, if a pair of speakers are designed to be able to bi amp and if you remove the jumpers and connect only either the top or bottom binding post , wouldnt only the mids/highs or lows will play?
Not all internal crossovers are the same. Some are more complex than others, and even when you remove the jumpers, the tweeter/mid and woofer crossovers are still connected/linked and are not completely separated into 2 completely different speakers.

With the RBH's design, when you remove the jumpers, the tweeter/mid crossover and the woofer crossover are completely separated into 2 completely different speakers.

I don't know why you would choose one type of internal crossover over another. I'm sure speaker engineers and designers could argue all day.

But the short answer that most of us can understand (not being speaker engineers and designers) is that not ALL internal crossovers are the same, and removing the jumpers does not ALWAYS completely separate them.
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