4-ohms speakers on 725watt receiver (is it safe??) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
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4-ohms speakers on 725watt receiver (is it safe??)

I would like to run 4ohm speakers on a SONY STR-DH550 with specs of 5.2 Ch. 725W A/V Receiver (145 W x 5 at 6 ohms, 1 kHz, THD 0.9%). Is this safe? I will probably only run two front speakers, a center speaker, and a subwoofer.


Thanks for any info.




(edit)
speakers have these ratings:
Impedance=4ohms
Rated Input Power= 155w
Max. Input power= 310w

Last edited by knlmwq; 07-07-2014 at 09:19 AM.
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post #2 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 09:09 AM
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My thoughts are only at very moderate listening volumes. I expect it would thermal shutdown at higher power requirements.
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post #3 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 09:13 AM
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The ratings for the DH550 are 90W x 2 at 6 ohms 20hz-20khz. A 1khz power rating is totally worthless. Plus it cannot be rated for 145W x 7 when it is only a 5 channel receiver!

That receiver is entry level and not rated for 4 ohm loads. You might be able to get away with it if you don't turn it up loud. Having a powered sub helps by keeping the receiver from having to handle the low frequencies.

What speakers are you using?

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post #4 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post
The ratings for the DH550 are 90W x 2 at 6 ohms 20hz-20khz. A 1khz power rating is totally worthless. Plus it cannot be rated for 145W x 7 when it is only a 5 channel receiver!

That receiver is entry level and not rated for 4 ohm loads. You might be able to get away with it if you don't turn it up loud. Having a powered sub helps by keeping the receiver from having to handle the low frequencies.

What speakers are you using?

You are correct about the 145W x 7. I quickly copied and pasted the specs off of amazon.com which were clearly wrong.


I am using some LG speakers that came with a bluray 5.1 home theater system. link: http://www.lg.com/us/home-theater-sy...theater-system.


I know they probably aren't the best but I was planning on buying a $350 2.1 soundbar and realized I could probably get a 5.1 setup for around the same price and then have the ability to upgrade my speakers at a later date. I am in an apartment so I wont be turning the volume up too loud.
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post #5 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 10:25 AM
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Did you buy a separate subwoofer? The one that came with the LG system is passive and gets its power from the receiver. The Sony DH550 doesn't have speaker terminals for the sub.

The problem with HTIB systems like the LG is that the speakers are made to match up with the unit and really aren't good with other systems. You want 8ohm or 6ohm speakers with that Sony. It'll probably be fine in the short term but you'll want replace the speakers and sub eventually if you haven't replaced the sub already.

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post #6 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knlmwq View Post
I know they probably aren't the best but I was planning on buying a $350 2.1 soundbar and realized I could probably get a 5.1 setup for around the same price and then have the ability to upgrade my speakers at a later date. I am in an apartment so I wont be turning the volume up too loud.
Better than a soundbar - and only $49 more - Wharfedale
http://www.musicdirect.com/p-232025-...nd-system.aspx

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Speakers > MB Quart VS05, Boston VS260, Snell K7
Subwoofer > Mordaunt Short Aviano 7
Receiver > Tascam PAR-200, Pioneer VSX-30
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post #7 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 10:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post
Did you buy a separate subwoofer? The one that came with the LG system is passive and gets its power from the receiver. The Sony DH550 doesn't have speaker terminals for the sub.

The problem with HTIB systems like the LG is that the speakers are made to match up with the unit and really aren't good with other systems. You want 8ohm or 6ohm speakers with that Sony. It'll probably be fine in the short term but you'll want replace the speakers and sub eventually if you haven't replaced the sub already.

Yea I was set on at least replacing the sub as I know I would probably need to get a separate power supply to power the passive sub. But out of curiosity would something like this work?http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA1-30-W...amplifier+home

Also, for the time being until I want to spend more money, would it be best to use the lg speakers I have mentioned in my earlier post, or these cheap 5.1 speakers from monoprice.com? http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_i...seq=1&format=2
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post #8 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 11:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zieglj01 View Post
Better than a soundbar - and only $49 more - Wharfedale
http://www.musicdirect.com/p-232025-...nd-system.aspx
Is that taking into account the price of a receiver? The Sony Sony STR-DH550 I was looking at would cost about $230. So wouldn't it be $399+$230= $629 to enjoy the whole setup?
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post #9 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 11:24 AM
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You could always get a whole package including Yamaha receiver and sub like this one -

(This is just an example, I have never owned one, but have owned Yamaha receivers and liked them)
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YHT-497.../dp/B007PU2Y4S

"But this one goes up to 11"
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post #10 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 11:50 AM
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I doubt those Monoprice speakers are going to be one bit better than the LG speakers you already have and you will just be wasting another $100. You should save your money until you can afford some truly decent speakers - most of these "system package" speakers with mid range drivers smaller than 4" are not worth buying (of course there are exceptions if you spend enough) - these speakers have no mid-bass and you will get a huge dip in the frequency response between the satellites and the sub - makes the sound "thin" and makes male voices sound "hollow".

You would be much better off to buy some standard speakers with decent sized mid drivers - here are some suggestions:

Polk New Monitor (check Newegg.com - about $75 to $100 each - about $350 ($450 if you get the larger fronts) for the system below, a MUCH better set of speakers
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882290268
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tem=82-290-269
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA1J70R68382

Infinity Primus (check Amazon.com - about $75 to $100 each - $375 for 5 speakers ($480 if you get the tower floor speakers for the front)
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primu.../dp/B004649W1Y
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primu.../dp/B0046A8R5A
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primu.../dp/B0044D178S

If the budget really is that tight, you would be much better off with a budget brand with decent sized drivers - these Dayton speakers have a 6.5" woofer and are only $35 per pair - three pairs will cost you just over $100 with the free shipping option:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...-pair--300-652

That Pyle amp isn't really 3000w - those are "Pyle watts" which is total marketing hype. If you really want to keep that passive sub, buy a sub "plate" amp, cut a hole in the back and mount it in the sub to make it a powered sub - this 100w amp is only $40
http://www.parts-express.com/technic...ifier--309-046
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2-Ch (HT L/R): Oppo BDP-105 BD, Adcom GFP-750 pre, Bryston 10B Sub Xover, Bryston 4BSST2, Paradigm Signature S4 v.2, (2) SVS SB12-NSD subs, AQ & Cardas XLR
Home Theater: Bryston 4BSST2 amp / Paradigm CC-590 (C), Outlaw 7700 amp / (4) Def Tech UIW-RSSII (LS/RS/LB/RB), Samsung 46” 3D LCD
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post #11 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knlmwq View Post
I would like to run 4ohm speakers on a SONY STR-DH550 with specs of 5.2 Ch. 725W A/V Receiver (145 W x 5 at 6 ohms, 1 kHz, THD 0.9%). Is this safe?
No. If you wan to use 4 ohm speakers you need an AVR rated for 4 ohm operation. The Sony specs say that only 6 to 16 ohm speakers should be used.

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post #12 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 12:18 PM
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The answer to your first question is yes, it is safe. The worst that could happen at higher volumes the AVR would get too warm (especially if you have it in a cabinet or not properly ventilated) and it's overheat protection would temporarily shut it down until it cools.

Quote:
Originally Posted by knlmwq View Post
Is that taking into account the price of a receiver? The Sony Sony STR-DH550 I was looking at would cost about $230. So wouldn't it be $399+$230= $629 to enjoy the whole setup?
Yes, but comparing a 5.1 home theater setup to a soundbar is about 10% different than comparing it to the sound from the TV itself - low cost soundbars aren't that much better than the built in TV speakers. Again, most low cost soundbars typically use 3" - 4" mid range drivers and you are not going to get any mid-bass between the low end of the bar and the top end of the sub. That is why Bose 3" cube speakers and sub sound so bad. The soundbars that are a lot better cost as much (or more) than an AVR and real speakers - they are just smaller and look cool.

To get a cheap AVR - look here - there are often deals for below $150.
http://www.accessories4less.com/
Like this Denon AVR:
http://www.accessories4less.com/make...d-ready/1.html

Add a $100 sub or an even better $200 sub (these both go on sale so watch for a week or two)
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-.../dp/B0002KVQBA
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-12-.../dp/B000092TT0

That AVR and sub along with the speakers I just suggested you could get a 5.1 home theater setup for $350 that would embarrass any $350 soundbar. With the soundbar you are paying a lot extra for it to be as small as possible and still sound decent - just decide if you want upgraded TV speakers (low cost soundbar) or home theater sound (low cost AVR and 5.1 speaker system)

2-Ch (HT L/R): Oppo BDP-105 BD, Adcom GFP-750 pre, Bryston 10B Sub Xover, Bryston 4BSST2, Paradigm Signature S4 v.2, (2) SVS SB12-NSD subs, AQ & Cardas XLR
Home Theater: Bryston 4BSST2 amp / Paradigm CC-590 (C), Outlaw 7700 amp / (4) Def Tech UIW-RSSII (LS/RS/LB/RB), Samsung 46” 3D LCD
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post #13 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 12:39 PM
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A really great soundbar with included sub is typically $800 or much more.

If you want great sound with the look of a soundbar, get a low cost AVR ($150), a low cost sub ($100) and a really good 3.0 front / center speaker like the Paradigm Trio - you can get them from eBay for around $225 - total cost of $475. Down the road add some used Paradigm Atoms for the surround and you will have something that looks good and sounds great with only slightly higher cost than a disposable / non-upgradable $350 sound bar.

http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Paradigm-Cin...ker-/114742580

2-Ch (HT L/R): Oppo BDP-105 BD, Adcom GFP-750 pre, Bryston 10B Sub Xover, Bryston 4BSST2, Paradigm Signature S4 v.2, (2) SVS SB12-NSD subs, AQ & Cardas XLR
Home Theater: Bryston 4BSST2 amp / Paradigm CC-590 (C), Outlaw 7700 amp / (4) Def Tech UIW-RSSII (LS/RS/LB/RB), Samsung 46” 3D LCD
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post #14 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 01:00 PM
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Please don't be offended, but you are asking a uninformed question. Let me try to help.

First, there is almost no such thing as a 4 Ohm speaker.
Second, you don't have a 725W receiver.
Third, Speaker power ratings are basically irrelevant advertising BS.

Speakers have complex impedance. "4 Ohm nominal" may dip well below 4. Is that safe? As was suggested, it matters entirely on the speaker, listening level, and the stability of the amplifier. Amplifiers do not like high current. They get unstable and the distortion skyrockets into low impedance. Unstable is bad as about the time it starts to oscillate at ultrasonic frequencies and you head over to turn it off, the outputs all blow. ( Give us back our 16 Ohm speakers!) An AVR will have a weak power supply ( size and weight, that is the way it is) so it's ability to actually produce the rated power is not real. The Sony is plenty large enough, so I would not worry about it. I would worry about "nominal 4 Ohm" speakers. They are just a bad design. Almost all AVR's spec at 6, just to be safe. AVR's are just not designed for high currents. One good bit of news is that most moders AVRs have pretty good protection circuits, so they may shut down before they blow up. Repeat, MAY.

The only thing that matters is if playing it as you intend, how does it sound? If you try to use too much power, the supply will collapse and it will clip at a lower level. If the speakers won't produce sufficient SPL safely, they may blow. Most speakers are at least 84 dB 1M, 1W so obtaining SPL that will not cause permanent damage to your hearing only takes a few watts. The rest is for dynamics. Blowing a speaker in a home required an accident or stupidity. We buy big amps for lower distortion and stability, not for louder.

I am all in favor of quality subs. Not just MORE bass, but lower distortion bass, and by taking the bass load off the mains, you take the load off the amp too. WIN-WIN.
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post #15 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdcrox View Post
My thoughts are only at very moderate listening volumes. I expect it would thermal shutdown at higher power requirements.
Hard to say. If you live in a warm climate and/or keep your equipment in a poorly ventilated cabinet then shut downs are more likely.

What is a "Moderate volume"? If you want a better answer, obtain a SPL meter and take some measurements.

Here's a $30 SPL meter that would help:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Soun...t/200922655718

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post #16 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 01:38 PM
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This is a nice receiver here - and new in the box - Tascam PA-R100
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TASCAM-PAR10...item3ce413da9a

http://tascam.com/product/pa-r100/

I just received the PA-R200 today - a good price with 20 watts more
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TASCAM-PAR20...item1e8e3b21dd

http://tascam.com/product/pa-r200/

Dayton subwoofer
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...oofer--300-628

Get 3 of these - for your left/center/right speakers - then buy 2 more later for surround
http://www.amazon.com/Nxg-Satellite-...ds=nxg+pro+4.1

This is way better than a soundbar system - and I would skip the Monoprice speakers

Your call

__________________________________________
Who and Where - is the Way, the Truth and the Life?

Speakers > MB Quart VS05, Boston VS260, Snell K7
Subwoofer > Mordaunt Short Aviano 7
Receiver > Tascam PAR-200, Pioneer VSX-30
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post #17 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 02:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJHuman View Post
You could always get a whole package including Yamaha receiver and sub like this one -

(This is just an example, I have never owned one, but have owned Yamaha receivers and liked them)
http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YHT-497.../dp/B007PU2Y4S
The Yamaha is nice but I have a 4k tv so I am looking for receivers that have hdmi 2.0 on board.
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post #18 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtn-tech View Post
I doubt those Monoprice speakers are going to be one bit better than the LG speakers you already have and you will just be wasting another $100. You should save your money until you can afford some truly decent speakers - most of these "system package" speakers with mid range drivers smaller than 4" are not worth buying (of course there are exceptions if you spend enough) - these speakers have no mid-bass and you will get a huge dip in the frequency response between the satellites and the sub - makes the sound "thin" and makes male voices sound "hollow".

You would be much better off to buy some standard speakers with decent sized mid drivers - here are some suggestions:

Polk New Monitor (check Newegg.com - about $75 to $100 each - about $350 ($450 if you get the larger fronts) for the system below, a MUCH better set of speakers
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882290268
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tem=82-290-269
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...9SIA1J70R68382

Infinity Primus (check Amazon.com - about $75 to $100 each - $375 for 5 speakers ($480 if you get the tower floor speakers for the front)
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primu.../dp/B004649W1Y
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primu.../dp/B0046A8R5A
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Primu.../dp/B0044D178S

If the budget really is that tight, you would be much better off with a budget brand with decent sized drivers - these Dayton speakers have a 6.5" woofer and are only $35 per pair - three pairs will cost you just over $100 with the free shipping option:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...-pair--300-652

That Pyle amp isn't really 3000w - those are "Pyle watts" which is total marketing hype. If you really want to keep that passive sub, buy a sub "plate" amp, cut a hole in the back and mount it in the sub to make it a powered sub - this 100w amp is only $40
http://www.parts-express.com/technic...ifier--309-046
Thanks for this info. That is my whole plan. I completely understand my speakers are VERY low end at this time but I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't cause damage (a.k.a waste money) by running the LG speakers in the mean time. I will consider the polks when I do finally upgrade.
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post #19 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtn-tech View Post
The answer to your first question is yes, it is safe. The worst that could happen at higher volumes the AVR would get too warm (especially if you have it in a cabinet or not properly ventilated) and it's overheat protection would temporarily shut it down until it cools.



Yes, but comparing a 5.1 home theater setup to a soundbar is about 10% different than comparing it to the sound from the TV itself - low cost soundbars aren't that much better than the built in TV speakers. Again, most low cost soundbars typically use 3" - 4" mid range drivers and you are not going to get any mid-bass between the low end of the bar and the top end of the sub. That is why Bose 3" cube speakers and sub sound so bad. The soundbars that are a lot better cost as much (or more) than an AVR and real speakers - they are just smaller and look cool.

To get a cheap AVR - look here - there are often deals for below $150.
http://www.accessories4less.com/
Like this Denon AVR:
http://www.accessories4less.com/make...d-ready/1.html

Add a $100 sub or an even better $200 sub (these both go on sale so watch for a week or two)
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-.../dp/B0002KVQBA
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-12-.../dp/B000092TT0

That AVR and sub along with the speakers I just suggested you could get a 5.1 home theater setup for $350 that would embarrass any $350 soundbar. With the soundbar you are paying a lot extra for it to be as small as possible and still sound decent - just decide if you want upgraded TV speakers (low cost soundbar) or home theater sound (low cost AVR and 5.1 speaker system)

Any receiver I purchase would have to have hdmi 2.0 for a little future proofing. I agree with you that any 5.1 setup is better than a non-upgradable soundbar and is the exact reason I am posting here for info. Thanks
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post #20 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvrgeek View Post
Please don't be offended, but you are asking a uninformed question. Let me try to help.

First, there is almost no such thing as a 4 Ohm speaker.
Second, you don't have a 725W receiver.
Third, Speaker power ratings are basically irrelevant advertising BS.

Speakers have complex impedance. "4 Ohm nominal" may dip well below 4. Is that safe? As was suggested, it matters entirely on the speaker, listening level, and the stability of the amplifier. Amplifiers do not like high current. They get unstable and the distortion skyrockets into low impedance. Unstable is bad as about the time it starts to oscillate at ultrasonic frequencies and you head over to turn it off, the outputs all blow. ( Give us back our 16 Ohm speakers!) An AVR will have a weak power supply ( size and weight, that is the way it is) so it's ability to actually produce the rated power is not real. The Sony is plenty large enough, so I would not worry about it. I would worry about "nominal 4 Ohm" speakers. They are just a bad design. Almost all AVR's spec at 6, just to be safe. AVR's are just not designed for high currents. One good bit of news is that most moders AVRs have pretty good protection circuits, so they may shut down before they blow up. Repeat, MAY.

The only thing that matters is if playing it as you intend, how does it sound? If you try to use too much power, the supply will collapse and it will clip at a lower level. If the speakers won't produce sufficient SPL safely, they may blow. Most speakers are at least 84 dB 1M, 1W so obtaining SPL that will not cause permanent damage to your hearing only takes a few watts. The rest is for dynamics. Blowing a speaker in a home required an accident or stupidity. We buy big amps for lower distortion and stability, not for louder.

I am all in favor of quality subs. Not just MORE bass, but lower distortion bass, and by taking the bass load off the mains, you take the load off the amp too. WIN-WIN.

Im not offended at all. Thanks for the info. I know I have a lot to learn. I specifically asked my question in reference to the Sony STR-DH550 and those lg speakers because that is what I planned on using temporarily instead of buying a soundbar. I was aware that this receiver is listed at 6ohm minimum while the speakers are listed a 4ohm. So I knew there COULD be an issue hence why I came here to ask.
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post #21 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 03:31 PM
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I'd take a refurb Denon E300 over the Sony, if you need to go cheap.
http://www.accessories4less.com/make...airplay/1.html
If you can stretch for more avr, get the E400:
http://www.accessories4less.com/make...airplay/1.html

Then buy 3 pairs of the TEAC LS-H265, which will run you $240.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2TGMCZ4O2P52Z
This will give you one extra speaker, but it guarantees you have your center matching your fronts.
http://www.cnet.com/news/teac-ls-h26...er-that-could/

Get a Dayton Sub-1200 to go with and you are good to go.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...oofer--300-629
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post #22 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bargugl View Post
I'd take a refurb Denon E300 over the Sony, if you need to go cheap.
http://www.accessories4less.com/make...airplay/1.html
If you can stretch for more avr, get the E400:
http://www.accessories4less.com/make...airplay/1.html

Then buy 3 pairs of the TEAC LS-H265, which will run you $240.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2TGMCZ4O2P52Z
This will give you one extra speaker, but it guarantees you have your center matching your fronts.
http://www.cnet.com/news/teac-ls-h26...er-that-could/

Get a Dayton Sub-1200 to go with and you are good to go.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...oofer--300-629
One thing I like about the sony is that it has hdmi 2.0 ports. I do see that the denon e400 does have 4k pass-through. I have a sony 4k tv so I was trying to avoid missing out on the hdmi 2.0 ports and I wouldn't have to use a universal remote to control everything, which I guess isn't that big of a deal.


would you do the Denon AVR-S500BT or the Sony STR-DH550

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post #23 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 03:59 PM
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The E400 will wipe the floor with the Sony so if you can swing it, that is the way to go. You will be set should you ever decide to upgrade speakers later. Of course, the Sony should be fine driving the Teacs (or the polks that someone else recommended).
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post #24 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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The E400 will wipe the floor with the Sony so if you can swing it, that is the way to go. You will be set should you ever decide to upgrade speakers later. Of course, the Sony should be fine driving the Teacs (or the polks that someone else recommended).
Just to add to my knowledge base, can you tell me why the E400 is better than the Sony STR-DH550?
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post #25 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 06:52 PM
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Denon is a much better amp with a significantly better power supply (200 watt vs 460 watt). This allows it to handle a much heavier load with more stability (and with less distortion), particularly when dealing with multiple channels like you do with home theater. It gives you some overhead for a variety of speakers. There's a reason MSRP is twice as much as the Sony.

Beyond that in features, it has Audyssey rather than Sony's proprietary system which generally is not considered as being as good. It has 6 hdmi ports instead of four, is 7.1 vs 5.1, has HD upconversion, and the list goes on.

I am not entirely sure that the Sony actually has discreet amp chips for each channel. Many low end receivers just have multiple channels running off of only a couple amp chips. This would make it even more power and stability challenged when in multi-channel mode. The sony may still have discreet amps, but I see nothing to indicate that and I would be surprised if it did.
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post #26 of 32 Old 07-07-2014, 07:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bargugl View Post
Denon is a much better amp with a significantly better power supply (200 watt vs 460 watt). This allows it to handle a much heavier load with more stability (and with less distortion), particularly when dealing with multiple channels like you do with home theater. It gives you some overhead for a variety of speakers. There's a reason MSRP is twice as much as the Sony.

Beyond that in features, it has Audyssey rather than Sony's proprietary system which generally is not considered as being as good. It has 6 hdmi ports instead of four, is 7.1 vs 5.1, has HD upconversion, and the list goes on.

I am not entirely sure that the Sony actually has discreet amp chips for each channel. Many low end receivers just have multiple channels running off of only a couple amp chips. This would make it even more power and stability challenged when in multi-channel mode. The sony may still have discreet amps, but I see nothing to indicate that and I would be surprised if it did.
Man, there is always some trade off. I want the sony because of the HDMI 2.0 but I do like the fact of having extra power just incase. My uses will be in my apartment watching movies mostly and occasional music. I doubt I would ever test the limits by cranking it up to full capacity. For my uses, do you foresee me needing that extra power?


Also, My sony xbr 55x850a 4k tv will do all my up converting and it can wirelessly stream all my music and videos as well. I have read that Audyssey is great though

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post #27 of 32 Old 07-08-2014, 05:35 AM
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It's up to you what you want to prioritize. The Sony should still be able to drive something like the Polks or Teacs to moderate volume in an average size space just fine.
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post #28 of 32 Old 07-08-2014, 09:23 PM
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Just to add to my knowledge base, can you tell me why the E400 is better than the Sony STR-DH550?
I agree with the others above - the Denon has discrete amplifiers which can deliver more current and sink more heat which is a big deal if you are trying to drive low impedance (below 8 ohms) or "difficult" load speakers.

But if you are using high sensitivity 8 ohm (nominal) speakers you should be OK with the Sony.

Of course, there is a Denon with all those same features as the Sony like the Denon AVR-X4000 but it is a current model and not selling for a fraction of the MSRP. Most of us on AVS would sacrifice a few features for better amplifiers or find the budget for the better AVR, but if the features and budget are key then go with the Sony and 8 ohm speakers.
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post #29 of 32 Old 07-09-2014, 03:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I agree with the others above - the Denon has discrete amplifiers which can deliver more current and sink more heat which is a big deal if you are trying to drive low impedance (below 8 ohms) or "difficult" load speakers.

But if you are using high sensitivity 8 ohm (nominal) speakers you should be OK with the Sony.

Of course, there is a Denon with all those same features as the Sony like the Denon AVR-X4000 but it is a current model and not selling for a fraction of the MSRP. Most of us on AVS would sacrifice a few features for better amplifiers or find the budget for the better AVR, but if the features and budget are key then go with the Sony and 8 ohm speakers.
Is there anyway to verify that the Sony STR-DH550 does not have discrete amplifiers or is that already known? Even when I look at Sony's top of the line STR-DA5800ES I do not see any verbiage stating that it contains discrete amplifiers. Would I benefit by stepping up to the Sony 7.1 STR-DH750? I do not plan on using a 7.1 setup but would that allow the amplifier to have extra backup power?(I'm sure I'm not using the correct terminology)


Also, I am not 100% sure what one receiver feature refers to. On the STR-DH550 it states: Speaker Selector : A / Off. On the STR-DH750 it states: Speaker Selector : A / B / A+B / Off. Does this simply mean I can turn certain speakers on or off if I wanted to? Like have some speakers in the back of the room off while speakers in the front of the room on? I appreciate all of the help you guys are giving for a beginner who isn't spending thousands of dollars on this yet.

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post #30 of 32 Old 07-09-2014, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by knlmwq View Post
Is there anyway to verify that the Sony STR-DH550 does not have discrete amplifiers or is that already known? Even when I look at Sony's top of the line STR-DA5800ES I do not see any verbiage stating that it contains discrete amplifiers. Would I benefit by stepping up to the Sony 7.1 STR-DH750? I do not plan on using a 7.1 setup but would that allow the amplifier to have extra backup power?(I'm sure I'm not using the correct terminology)
I wouldn't pick one AVR over another based on discrete amplifiers. I would avoid Sony AVRs because their amps tend towards being kinda wimpy at the same price point. For the record I have a Yamaha AVR with chip power amps that sounds and measures great, and a Denon that has discrete power amps and sounds and measures great. The Sherwoods have discrete amps and I've fried 1 of them.

Denon's S-series AVRs are supposed to have HDMI 2.0 and coming soon.
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