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Official Power Sound Audio Speaker Thread

1M views 12K replies 534 participants last post by  Dockside HT 
#1 · (Edited)
#7 ·
Subscribed
 
#8 ·
Specs and info quoted from

http://www.powersoundaudio.com/blogs/news/15380517-the-wait-is-over-loudspeakers-are-here

MT-110 & MT-110c

("c" denotes horizontally oriented cabinet)

  • 2 way, audiophile loudspeaker
  • 1" titanium compression driver
  • Cast aluminum exponential horn
  • 10" high efficiency woofer
  • Audiophile grade crossover completely designed in house
  • Frequency Response = 70Hz - 20kHz
  • Sensitivity = 95dB 1W/1M
  • Size HxWxD = 17.5" x 11" x 14" (includes grill)
  • Weight = 35lbs
  • MSRP = $599

MTM-210 & MTM-210c


("c" denotes horizontally oriented cabinet)

  • 2 way, audiophile loudspeaker
  • 1" titanium compression driver
  • Cast aluminum exponential horn
  • Dual 10" high efficiency woofers
  • Audiophile grade crossover completely designed in house
  • Frequency Response = 70Hz - 20kHz
  • Sensitivity = 98dB 1W/1M
  • Size HxWxD = 28" x 11" x 16" (includes grill)
  • Weight = 55lbs
  • MSRP = $899
Package pricing will be determined soon. Pre-orders will start in approximately two weeks, with shipments expected to begin approximately 30-45 days later. All pre-order sales will be part of our Summer of Bass promotion, and will include free shipping both ways.
 
#9 ·
Hi all,

I already replied to a few questions in our Sub thread. Please check that and then let me know if I can answer anything else here.

We will have plenty of pictures soon. At the moment the cabinets we have on hand have slight variances to the production design(different grill pins and different binding post cups for example). Combine that with numerous scratches and scuffs from being moved about 100x for listening sessions and measurements outside and these just aren't the first visual we want everyone to see..:)

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
 
#18 ·
If you are happy with your current speakers I wouldn't feel the need to upgrade. However, you can also just try a 2.0 system for convenience sake. Let's face it, if you love the sound from the 2.0 system...chances are about 100% you'll also enjoy a 5.0/7.0 system as well..:)

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
 
#12 · (Edited)
Some questions I'm sure are going to be asked soon might as well get them on the first page.

What advantage do high efficiency, large woofer speakers have?

Are these speakers bright, I heard horns are bright or annoying?

What amplification is recommended normal receiver, high end receiver, dedicated amps? How much power (watts) is a good minimum?

Why is the frequency response only 70hz-20khz? Why not aim for a deeper response?

Can I cross these speakers over at 80hz?

Can I run these speakers without a subwoofer?

What PSA sub woofers(s)should I pair these speakers with?

What should I pick for my front three speakers (MT110 vs MT210)?

Will you be offering stands sense these speakers are large and or heavy?

That should get us started and some of the most basic questions out of the way.
 
#14 ·
Some questions I'm sure are going to be asked soon might as well get them on the first page.

What advantage do high efficiency, large woofer speakers have?

The ability to play very loud and clean with minimum amounts of power. The MTM-210 will be capable of 119-120 of output with only 120watts of amplification

Are these speakers bright, I heard horns are bright or annoying?
My understanding is wave guides are very smooth and flat, which should be good for both music and home theater.]

What amplification is recommended normal receiver, high end receiver, dedicated amps? How much power (watts) is a good minimum?

Any AVR with little as 50watts per channel will drive these speakers to very loud levels. 64watts a channel will drive the MTM-201 to 116db, or 113db with the 101.

Why is the frequency response only 70hz-20khz? Why not aim for a deeper response?

Majority of todays home theater systems utilize a subwoofer to handle the deep bass region. So there is not much need to build a speaker for deeper extension. Also by doing this increases the speakers efficiency and ability to play ultra clean at high output levels.

Can I cross these speakers over at 80hz?

Most definitely...that is the crossover THX recommends for the mains speakers anyway.

Can I run these speakers without a subwoofer?

Sure you can, there just will not be much deep bass output. Just gobs of tight midbass slam.

What PSA sub woofers(s)should I pair these speakers with?

Any model of PSA sub should work well with these speakers

What should I pick for my front three speakers (MT110 vs MT210)?

Looking at the specs, the MT110 should keep up with most peoples demands being reference capable with only 100watts of power, However for those that have multiple subwoofers and listen at extreme levels, the 201 should be considered.

Will you be offering stands sense these speakers are large and or heavy?

Good question! I hope a wall bracket would possibly be available for the 101's being utilized for surround duty.

That should get us started and some of the most basic questions out of the way.
I answered some questions in Bold.
 
#16 ·
Ok, so I have a question for you Tom/Jim that I feel you guys should be able to answer very well. I have the MBS-01's anchoring the FR/FL of my system. Considering that you guys designed and built both of these sets, I'm very curious as to how these would directly compare to what i have. I absolutely love my MBS's and couldn't imagine replacing them, but of course i am tempted by the latest and greatest. unfortunately, the MBS's are too large to swap out for my rears as i currently have to hang them from the wall since my furniture is in here pretty tight. not sure if they would blend well anyhow. so, basically i would love to hear your take on differences in sound, extension, and efficiency between these two models, and how you figure the two would stack up against each other. :D Im also curious about a future center channel to match these. i understand the mtm could be used in such a manner, but looking at my MBS's and the size of that cabinet, i couldn't imagine using the PSA (being slightly larger) on it's side for a center. it would probably cover the bottom 1/4 of the screen and just look ridiculous. lol. no waf, but my AF.
 
#20 ·
These kinds of comparisons are very difficult as we're dealing with subjective preference to a large degree. There are a few things I can answer though.

1)No new center anytime soon. For mostly on axis listening the MTM 210 is great. If you have one of those WIDE rooms with lots of off axis seating(say 30 degrees or more) you can consider the MT-110 in either orientation. The "voice match" is practically identical so anyone can mix/match the 210 and 110 to best fit their individual needs.

2)if neither of the center options would fit for you considering a complete 5.0 or 7.0 system is likely a non starter. However if you key seating is close to equidistant to the main L/R you can also consider the "phantom center" option(no center speaker).

3)I probably wouldn't try to mix/match the MBS stuff with our speakers. There is just such a discrepancy in ultimate performance targets...I don't see it ending well.

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
 
#22 ·
thanks for the response tom. understanding they are two totally different setups, but knowing both very well...would you say that they are at least in the same class, or would the new PSA offering be that much of a step up? i understand that sound is subjective, just asking about the parts/materials/crossover ect. the MBS's were in about the same price point when i got them, so just wondering if i would notice as much of a difference between the two. i feel like the PSA's may add a little more mid bass punch based on the larger drive and tuning point?
 
#23 · (Edited)
With 1 watt of power the MTM-210 will play almost 10db louder then the MBS-01. To translate that further, 1 watt of power will drive the 210 within 7db of reference. Or let's say you are watching a movies @ MV -7, the 210's would only be using 1watt of power to play at that volume.

To further put things into perspective.

The MBS-01 needs 64 watts to play 105db

The MTM-210 needs 8 watts 4.5 watts to play 105db.
 
#28 ·
Exactly...one can still reach those levels with traditional 88-90db efficient speakers using high power amplification(being the speaker is capable), but for those that do not want to invest in external power amps, a standard AVR will run play these speakers louder/cleaner then my Polk RTI-A7's with a Adcom GFA-555II(300x2).

For instance my RTI-A7 a fairly efficient for a brick and mortar tower @ almost 90db efficiency. With 300 watts of power they are maxed around 114-115db(1m). That gives me 10db of headroom. So crossed at 80hz they will just barely play reference at my MLP of 15ft.

The MTM -201 with half the power(150watts) will play 121db(1m). That is 16db of headroom, so these speakers should play 105db in most rooms with ease. These would play reference easily in my room.

That is the beauty of ultra high efficient speakers. Now if you do not listen at or near reference and you are happy with your speakers then upgrading may not be needed. Just note it has been said that a speaker capable of producing reference output clean does not sound as loud as a speakers that struggles and compresses to play reference clean. So with these speakers you might find yourself listening at higher levels with less fatigue.
 
#36 ·
I've heard many high efficiency designed speakers now and one thing that I've found common with all of them is that they are very revealing. This is both a good thing and a bad thing, basically crap in equals crap out. If a song has a bad recording there's no way around it, you'll definitely hear it first hand.


But when you do get those high quality recording its heaven, they sound oh so sweet. :)
 
#37 ·
My front 3 speakers are B&W Nautilus 805 and B&W Nautilus HTM2, Frequency response: 49Hz-22kHz, ±3dB. Sensitivity: 88dB/W/m (2.83V). Nominal impedance: 8 ohms (minimum: 4.6 ohms). I would love to get into high efficient speakers but I would have a hard time letting go of my B&W's. I do have an itch to replace my back speakers Jamo THX surround one ( 4 ohm ) speakers though. I'm currently running a 9.1 system and now with Atmos that means even more speakers and upgrades, damn this hobby is getting out of hand!!!!!!!
 
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#75 ·
Hi oneeye,

Just "off the cuff"...


1) Made in USA from USA sourced content whenever possible ( I believe every component is USA sourced except the metal grill pins).

2) Sealed design

3) High Efficiency and an easy/stable load to power.(impedance)

The ability to play at very loud levels without the need for expensive amplification. The benefits here are two fold. First, even an inexpensive ($300?) receiver will be able to power these speakers to very loud levels in all but the largest of room environments. Second, even at moderate output levels there are still audible benefits. Subtle details and nuances of the program material will be more audible. The term "micro dynamics" is often used to describe this phenomenon.

4) Bass extension down to 60-70hz. This would ensure plenty of frequency overlap with subwoofers with all speakers set to 80hz(or even a bit lower) We recommend 60hz as the lowest crossover point with these designs although in smaller rooms you may see nice output down to the 50-55hz range.

At this point I believe everyone understands the benefits of dedicated subwoofers to handle the bass in home audio. Not only will a quality subwoofer offer more headroom it will also provide more accurate bass reproduction in most cases because the subwoofer can be placed in the room to maximize bass performance. The full range speakers need to be placed in very specific locations because of imaging and directional cues. These spots are rarely the best for bass reproduction.


5) Accurate sound reproduction verified with both subjective listening impressions as well as objective/measured performance.

Obviously, accurate sound reproduction is the key to any speaker design. While listening sessions play an important role in the process without high resolution measurements any speaker design will be prone to mistakes. Simply put, our ears are no where near as resolving as a quality measurement rig. When you combine all of the necessary acoustical measurements with an endless amount of crossover variations it should surprise no one that a quality speaker design will take many, many months of hard work.


6) In house crossover development. While using an off the shelf crossover from an outside source can get you "75%" of the way there while saving MONTHS of development time....you will never be able to really optimize any design in this manner. The crossover has been called the "heart" of any speaker design by many of the most respected designers in the industry and they will get no argument from me.


7) Reasonably sized with dimensions and weight that would work in the majority of room environments.


8) Aesthetics that match our current subwoofers.


9) Fairly priced for the performance, build quality, and most importantly customer support. Let's face it, it would be easy to pick one of these to excel at. Two, more difficult but not impossible by any measure. But all three can take a tremendous amount of time and effort.


Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
 
#44 ·
Can't wait to preorder these!! Definitly taking advantage of free shipping both ways to try these out in my new theater :)
 
#48 ·
Mtm 210

Hey guys, I will be getting the MTM 210s for sure upfront and I wanted to orient the center vertically like the mains, the problem with the vertical center is the tweeter (horn) will be about 6" below the the mains tweeters, can I just tilt the stand back a bit to fire the horn about ear level or is it imperitive that all horns be the same height. Another question, I can have the center in a horizontal orientation which will place the tweeter (horn) in the same height plane as the mains. I know the best orientation (correct?) is to have the LCR all vertical? What orientation would produce the best dispersion with the center channel? TIA:)
Cheers Jeff
 
#49 ·
Hey guys, I will be getting the MTM 210s for sure upfront and I wanted to orient the center vertically like the mains, the problem with the vertical center is the tweeter (horn) will be about 6" below the the mains tweeters, can I just tilt the stand back a bit to fire the horn about ear level or is it imperitive that all horns be the same height. Another question, I can have the center in a horizontal orientation which will place the tweeter (horn) in the same height plane as the mains. I know the best orientation (correct?) is to have the LCR all vertical? What orientation would produce the best dispersion with the center channel? TIA:)
Cheers Jeff
I have my Jtr 228's all vertical. I just tilted the center that is about 3 inches off of the floor up a little. It sounds much better than when it was horizontal. There are articles that talk about lobing problems with WTW horizontal centers. It's not like it will sound bad horizontal though.
 
#54 ·
I've been thinking about replacing my "MMTMM" Klipsch RC64ii CC because of issues I have with being able to locate it. I have it mounted above my TV and I can tell the sound is coming from above my TV. :mad:

Would either of these new speakers be any better in that regard??

I can do vertical (the tweeter would be pretty high up though), but horizontal would look better. :)
 
#61 ·
Alan, according to my research about vertically or even horizontally oriented center channel speakers, the tweeter should be ideally the same height as the mains in a LCR setup. All vertical same height (tweeter) is supposed to be the best setup. There are exceptions to that equal distance plane, I have read and been told the center tweeter no matter how oriented could be either 18" above or below the mains tweeters, according to that statement that is the threshold where the panning effect will not be too uneven. This was told to me, because I asked if my center PSA 210 vertically oriented was 6" below the mains tweeter would cause any detrimental effects. Also Ray (Nist) has his center below the mains as well in a vertical orientation with no ill effects. I also believe that the 210 would suit you better than the RC64ii concerning localization, just my opinion. Below is an example of having the tweeters in an extreme situation. Hope this helps.


The 6" difference will not matter. The concern here is that you will be distracted when source material is emitted from one speaker and then fades to another. Assume a 6 feet difference for this next example. Let's say you are watching a scene where a helicopter is passing from the left to the right on your tv screen. You should here the helicopter sound coming from the left, fade into the center, then fade to the right. If there was a big enough difference in height between the speakers, you would become distracted when all of a sudden the sound from the helicopter is 6 feet higher than it was before. This will not happen with a 6" difference. It will not be noticeable.

Cheers Jeff:)
 
#60 ·
I think it just depends on what threads you subscribe to. I am experiencing the opposite. Several of the threads if am subscribed to are blowing up my email with notifications (JTR Speaker thread, Denon 4520 thread and Master list of Bass Movies) over the last few days.
 
#69 · (Edited)
Tom, with regards to the center channel dual 10" speaker. Will customers be able to rotate the waveguides depending if the customer is using it in a vertical or horizontal configuration? Or are you guys going to use something like a 90x90 as opposed to say a 90x60 dispersion waveguide?


Also where did you decide to cross the compression driver over to the 10" drivers at? I'm guessing probably somewhere around 1300hz? Just taking a shot in the dark with that one :)
 
#72 ·
nice!

the plan is do go identical across the front stage...no horizontal center

my surround speakers space is limited....

Tom, any plan on speaker stands?
 
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