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Replacing my 10" Polk Sub Woofer- need advice

4K views 26 replies 6 participants last post by  ItzMe 
#1 ·
In the middle of the night our Polk 10" Subwoofer seems to have shorted out, making a very loud humm blast. Tried unplugging it and replugging, still blasting. Right now I'm assuming I need to replace it, unless someone knows a fix. The sub woofer was part of a 5.1 Polk surround speaker system bought 10+ yrs ago. I don't know the power specs of the sub but I recall the speaker system was 100w? The L&R speakers are Polk model RM60000BD and the sub is model # 211212. Dinosaurs I'm sure.

Should I replace just the broken sub? Or does it make more sense to get a new 5.1 speaker system (for my Pioneer 1020k AVR)? The room isn't too big, at about 17" x 14". I'm no audiophile but want a good system for action movies. I'd be grateful for any advice. Thanks!
 
#3 ·
If most folks recommend replacing the whole speaker system, I'd say about $600. For just the subwoofer, I'd say under $175?? I was just looking at the Bose Acoustimass 6 Series V Home Theater Speaker System on Amazon for $369. Thanks!
 
#4 · (Edited)
I would recommend that you get a Polk PSW505 subwoofer. It will be far better and can usually be had for around $200-250 or so.

Strongly recommend staying away from anything made by Bose; low quality sound.

You probably also would get far better sound if you replace your front L/R speakers with something like the Polk TSi100 speakers.

The front L/R speakers in those package systems usually are so small and so limited in output that they are a joke.
 
#5 ·
You can find excellent bargains on Polk Audio's EBay site -

http://www.ebay.com/sch/TV-Video-Ho...&_armrs=1&_from=&_ssn=polkaudio&_sop=15&rt=nc

You are buying, typically, discontinued models directly from Polk Audio with full warranty.

Notice they do have a selection of in-wall speakers.

I really don't recommend "Lifestyle" speakers. Way too much money, for not nearly enough speaker. You get much better value in good Bookshelf and a Center speaker. Though you could continue to use your 'lifestyle' speakers in the rear.

Are there any restrictions in the room? For example, a Fireplace will typically mess up the placement of an AV system, and the running of wires.

Though not the perfect system, consider these listed below as an example of the possibilities -

Polk PSW110 Subwoofer ($165) -


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...029?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541ac6440d

Polk TSx-110 Bookshelf Pair ($160) -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...757?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b0eb754cd

Polk TSi CS2 Center ($100) -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...648?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35da935a28

$165 + $160 + $100 = $425 Total

Alternate larger Front Speaker -

Polk TSx-220 Bookshelf Pair ($210) -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...822?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e8f1f57e

Another Alternate -

Polk RTi-4 Bookshelf Pair ($200) -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...959?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item540e8ae2f7

Polk TSi-200 Bookshelf Pair ($200) -


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...283?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b0d51f2ab

Alternate Center -

Polk RTi CSI3 Center Speaker ($170) -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...757?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b06fd49e5

Alternate Subwoofers -

Polk DSW-Pro 440 Sub ($240) -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...172?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541a216594

This is a smaller 8" Sub, but higher quality.

A Sub more in-line with your needs -

Polk DSW-Pro 550 10" Sub ($300) -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-...285?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541dc42b5d


At this stage, I'm not so much making recommendations, as simply trying to give you a sense of the possibilities. If you simply want to replace your Sub, that's fine. But if you can push your budget up, I would recommend replacing the Sub and the Front Three (Left/Center/Right) speakers. That would give your system a pretty significant upgrade.

Can we assume, your original system was a compact Lifestyle system similar to this -

Polk Audio TL-1600 Home Theater Speaker System ($400/set) -

http://www.polkaudio.com/tl1600/d/1217C3339

If so, replacing your Front speakers with Bookshelf would be a pretty significant upgrade, and equally should not overpower your small room. It is just down to having some place to put the larger speakers.

Just a few thoughts.

Steve/bluewizard
 
#8 ·
Damn fireplaces, they are great for room aesthetics, but the suck big time for placement of audio and video systems.

Is there any other wall on which the system could be place. Fireplaces draw the attention of the room, and everything typically focuses on the Fireplace. But, the fireplace could be to the side of your seating area with the same aesthetics, and more practical system placement.

Those stands will not work with bookshelf speakers. But, you could make some stand easy enough at a height necessary to fit under the TV screen. I'm sure you could find a local woodworker who could churn out a couple of stand for a fair price.

It may require you to move your system forward a bit though.

As to the Center, in a situation like this, I recommend building a box approximately the size of the Top of the stand. The box should be big enough to hold the Center speakers, and TV would then sit on top of the Box. The Box would raise the TV up a bit, but I don't think it would be excessive, and you would quickly get used to it.

Ingenuity is the key. Creative thinking and problem solving should come up with a solution within the circumstance you have to work with.

Though I'm not there, I think if the system is shifted forward, and slightly to the left, you could make it work.

Obviously, given the space limitations, you would have to choose smaller bookshelf speakers. But, I think you could make it work.

Steve/bluewizard
 
#9 ·
You have no idea how right you are about that damn fireplace. Architects in the lates 80s should've been shot for putting them wall-center with 2 alcoves. No other wall is a possibility. You can see the 2 recliners in the reflection on the set, they're on the opposite long wall of the rectangular room. On the opposite short wall is a couch (not shown). When visitors are on the couch I need some room on the left of the panel to swivel the set a bit right toward the short wall with the couch. Trust me, it just isn't possible to move that system anymore right. (BTW and FYI, the other long wall is about 60% a sliding glass door to the porch).

The cabinet building is a possibility, but I hate to trash the room any more than it is. It's starting to look like a nice living room except for the corner you see in that photo. I'm considering having a home theater design company give me an estimate for a fireplace mounting, but that mantel has structural brickwork supporting it and the flue knob and low ceiling may also be obstacles.

So those bookshelves seem to be 12" x 7" x 10". Can I assume they'll barrel mount onto those stands? Or are they too heavy at 10lbs? I'll do some measuring. Sigh.
 
#11 ·
Really? Have they gotten that good that I wouldn't need the back Left and back right speakers, and sub (not pictured)? Or is there a sound bar config that is for only the front L, R, and C?

As you can see in the photo I'd need a deeper cabinet for even just a soundbar.
 
#13 ·
You've all been very helpful, thanks! It looks like I have too many room obstacles that prevent making speaker upgrades, so now I'll decide to order one of these three:

Dayton Sub-1200 for $148

Polk PSW505 for $199

Polk Audio PSW110 BLACK 10" Home Audio Powered Subwoofer for $165

Any final thoughts before I order one of these? I have to admit that the 12" Dayton seems best on the surface. But Parts Express return policy could be expensive and I haven't ever used them. Have any of you used Parts Express?
 
#14 ·
As the owner of a PSW505 for my secondary HT (based on recommendations here that it was a good budget sub), I would say avoid all Polk subs. Compared to the dual HSU subs in my primary setup, the Polk is all boom with no punch/clarity. Considering the price difference, I'm not shocked, but I would have been better served to save up my money for a good sub rather than throwing away $200 on the Polk. I've also listened to cheaper Polk subs, and in addition to the boom they added a nice heaping of distortion. I can't comment on the Dayton (it is also well-regarded here), but I have my doubts that there is such a thing as a "good" budget sub.
 
#16 ·
As to mounting the TV above the fireplace, consider building a false wall over the brick of the Chimney. Leave the fireplace brick exposed as it is now.

Since the false wall is not structural, it could be built from almost anything. A solid mounting surface, 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, could be mounted in the area of the TV.

Also, there is something called a Down and Out TV mounting bracket or Drop Down TV mounting bracket. Also called Dynamic TV Mounting.

Here are a couple of video examples.





Of course, you can't use the Fireplace and TV at the same time.







I believe it is even possible to get these thing motorized, so with the press of a button, the TV automatically comes down.

They are not cheap though.

Steve/bluewizard
 
#18 ·
The Down and Out bracket and False Wall ideas are enlightening! Here's my living room.. Your ideas could eliminate my concerns of the fireplace flue knob (that speck in the center above the fireplace), then manetel with its supporting brickwork (unseen), and maybe even the low ceilings. Not to mention my basement has space to house a rack just below the fireplace. Hmmmm....

If it all worked out id swap the recliners and couch, since the reclineres are primary seating :cool:
 

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#23 ·
The Down and Out bracket and False Wall ideas are enlightening! ...

If it all worked out id swap the recliners and couch, since the reclineres are primary seating :cool:
If you look at the last video I posted, the one with the White Brick Wall, his configuration is not much different than your own.

Those bricks above the mantle do not look like part of the chimney, they look more cosmetic. That is, they are there to make the part above the mantle symmetrical with the part below the mantle.

So, we/you would need to determine how structurally sound those bricks above the mantle are, and if they are actually part of the chimney.

The whole point of the Down and Out Bracket is to mount a TV above the fireplace. So, this can't be that hard.

What I'm getting at is, if the bricks above the mantle are sufficiently solid, you could mount the TV or more accurately, the Down and Out Bracket, directly to them, not need for a false wall.

That would certainly give you better placement of the TV and of the Speakers.

Here is a link to the "Dynamic Mounting" Website. Perhaps you can gain some insight there as to mounting the bracket above the mantle -

https://www.dynamicmounting.com/

https://www.dynamicmounting.com/fireplace-tv-mounts#home-content-phase1


Oddly, though not significant to this discussion, not only do they have Down and Out Brackets, but they have Up and Over, where the TV can be mounted down low and raised up. ...who knew???

Steve/bluewizard
 
#20 ·
After lots of reading and advice it was almost like throwing a dart, so I just ordered the Dayton sub 1200. Questions: Will I need to break it in? How? My broken Polk had one banana cable from my AVR, does it go in the Left or Right jack on the sw?

I'll report back after it arrived. Thanks to you all!
 
#21 ·
Well break in depends on the person some people think it does miracles some think its hog wash.

I do suggest you start slow with it and do not push it with in the first hour. You wouldn't take a brand new car to its top speed right after you buy it.

You can put it in the L or R jack or get a 2male RCA 1 Female rca converter and try that out.
 
#22 ·
The Dayton Sub 1200 arrived tonight. It came next day from Parts Express. Its a much bigger cabinet than my old Polk, but it fit in the room. I'm very impressed with it! We're hearing ranges and depth I hadn't heard before with just initial testing (Deadliest Catch, a sitcom, and a little Am. Idol). Can't wait for some movies. Not bad for $148!

Thanks for all the advice!
 
#24 · (Edited)
Here is a Dynamic Mounting Bracket on Amazon.com -

http://www.amazon.com/www-DynamicMounting-com-1-A0200-Down-and-Mount/dp/B00502OG3U

Here is another company called "Mantel Mount" -

https://mantelmount.com/

Here is another source called"Wall Mount World" -

http://www.wallmountworld.com/Fireplace-TV-Mount-30-vertical-travel-p/wmw-pull-down.htm

If you are concerned about your brick work both from a cosmetic point of view and from a structural point of view, then the False Wall idea become more appealing. You could built a frame to the sides, and then between the left and right section of the frame mount plywood. The plywood should be structurally sound enough to support the TV Bracket. Further. You can raise the Plywood off the brick sufficiently to allow wires to be run behind the plywood, out of sight, for Audio and Video signals.

Really the solution to doing this is based in ingenuity, common sense, and forethought.

Steve/bluewizard
 
#25 ·
thanks Steve. you've given me a lot to think about, lots of possibilities I hadn't thought of before. The bricks are no doubt structural (out to the home exterior). I'd want my end-solution to be something semi-permanent, in terms of set it and forget it. I don't want to adjust anything to watch tv vs entertain.

What I like about the fake wall is that I would not have to somehow saw off the bricks that stick out about 9" to support the 12" mantel. I could remove the wood mantel and leave the brick supports, and have a bigger tv panel than leaving the mantel would allow (the primary objective, btw). That'd leave that space you mentioned to hide wiring, and maybe even bookshelf speakers!

I seemed to have hijacked my own thread here :)
 
#26 ·
You would not need to use a sheet of plywood to mount every thing. You could simply place boards behind Sheetrock, but those board would have to be placed precisely where the TV need to be.

I would suggest building the wall a bit farther out to the sides of the fireplace, then forward of the brick face. If you use board, rather than plywood, then the wires can run between the boards, and exit the false wall behind the TV.

Keep in mind, before you close up the wall, all the wiring would have to be in place, and if you have to replace a wire, you might have to tear up the Sheetrock. Though equally, you could use the old wire to fish the new wire through.

A lot of things to consider.

If you have a new AV Receiver, then a single HDMI cable which will have ARC (audio return channel) plus the power cable would be about all you would need. For TV Reception you would need the antenna or a connection from the cable box. Today, most of these cable connections are HDMI.

So, using the most basic assumptions, you would need two HDMI and a Power Cable. That should be easy enough to place behind the Sheetrock.

If you placed a couple of horizontal 2x6's to mount the TV bracket to, that would move the wall forward by about 1.5" + 5/8", the moves the wall roughly 2-1/8" forward. The 2x6's could be solidly secured two the larger framework at the sides of the Fireplace.

You might be able to use 1x6" which would make the wall more shallow. Though in 1by wood, I would be more inclined to use plywood as it has a more complex cross grain structure and would probably hold screw a lot better than solid pine.

I suspect, though I can't know for sure, that the brick you see in your living room is cosmetic, and that behind that brick is another layer of less attractive brick that constitutes the actual chimney. But, if you drill into the brick, whether it is cosmetic or structural, you can't really change your mind later. Once the holes are drilled, they are drilled. The next person who lives in the house might be less than satisfied with holes in his chimney. That makes the False Wall more attractive. If the next owner doesn't like it, it is not that hard to tear out the false wall, and have the clean unblemished brick newly exposed.

Just a few thoughts.

Steve/bluewizard
 
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