The Two Towe.... no THREE Towers for LCR - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 101 Old 09-22-2017, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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The Two Towe.... no THREE Towers for LCR

I've seen a few forums saying that for best HT experience, use three identical towers for LCR. I built my dedicated HT with three large alcoves in the wall (directly behind an accoustically transparent screen) to house three front towers.

Questions:

1. Would you all agree that if one can place it directly behind the screen as I describe, a timber matching tower for the center chanel will outperform a typical horizontal center speaker?

2. To save a little money would it be OK to use two larger towers (say Klipsch RP-260F) for left and right and a smaller tower (still bigger than a horizontal center) from the same family (say Klipsch RP-250F) for the center?

3. Or since the center is the powerhouse for HT, would it be better to use the larger one in the center (say Klipsch RP-260) and the smaller siblings (Klipsch RP-250) for Left-front and Right-front?

Setup
Room = 15 x 27
No, not set on speaker family yet but intend to do a 7.2.4 setup. (The 4 atmos will be in-ceiling)
Will probably use a Yamaha 3070 with an external amp to get 11 powered channels.
Doubt I will ever go in there to listen to music. HT only.
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post #2 of 101 Old 09-22-2017, 07:04 PM
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1. yes

2. vs 3., I would definitely pick 3.

15 x 27 room, make sure you budget for an adequate sub or two, something in the $800-1200 range apiece. Towers not super necessary if you have good subs in play, esp. for HT-only use.

Klipsch RP if you decide to go that way shouldn't require external amps since they have high sensitivity.

External amps, I'd look at the Crown XLS class D amps for maximum power per dollar.

~ Are you a "geek hobbyist" obsessed with squeezing out that last 5-10% improvement? The economy will thank you...especially the Chinese one. Or are you more of a get-set-and-forget "casual user" who simply wants to increase your enjoyment of movies, TV and gaming? Relax, HT isn't rocket science, nor does it have to cost an arm and a leg---especially if you ignore the aforementioned vocal minority. And remember to smile...it's just a silly hobby, after all. :)
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post #3 of 101 Old 09-22-2017, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Zorba922 View Post
1. yes
This made me happy.
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post #4 of 101 Old 09-22-2017, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorba922 View Post
1. yes

2. vs 3., I would definitely pick 3.

15 x 27 room, make sure you budget for an adequate sub or two, something in the $800-1200 range apiece. Towers not super necessary if you have good subs in play, esp. for HT-only use.

Klipsch RP if you decide to go that way shouldn't require external amps since they have high sensitivity.

External amps, I'd look at the Crown XLS class D amps for maximum power per dollar.
The Crown XLS amps are very nice, I use one for my 2-channel setup, but for 11 channels driven you'd need 6 of them, and they don't use traditional home-audio style triggers (they have a pro-audio style trigger input that requires you to build relays for each amp if you want your processor to turn them on, and running that man you'd probably want to build in a delay to prevent tripping a breaker due to the initial current rush).

Something like an Emotiva A-700 along with an A-500 would give you the necessary channels for less money than 6 XLS 1502s and still provide plenty of headroom for those Klipsch speakers, and they come with traditional 12v triggers.
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post #5 of 101 Old 09-22-2017, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TuteTibiImperes View Post
The Crown XLS amps are very nice, I use one for my 2-channel setup, but for 11 channels driven you'd need 6 of them, and they don't use traditional home-audio style triggers (they have a pro-audio style trigger input that requires you to build relays for each amp if you want your processor to turn them on, and running that man you'd probably want to build in a delay to prevent tripping a breaker due to the initial current rush).

Something like an Emotiva A-700 along with an A-500 would give you the necessary channels for less money than 6 XLS 1502s and still provide plenty of headroom for those Klipsch speakers, and they come with traditional 12v triggers.
IIRC, he's got nine amps in the Yamie so he just needs 2 more amp channels, i.e., it will process 11 channels with a 2-channel external amp.
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post #6 of 101 Old 09-22-2017, 07:28 PM
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would be interesting to read about just a center channel test/review...I own 4 different horizontal center channels and they all sound pretty close...my favorite is my biggest one which happens to be a klipsch...also have 2 focals, boston acoustics. honestly no complaints from any, but...Im not a big movie buff

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post #7 of 101 Old 09-22-2017, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnklight@comcast.net View Post
I've seen a few forums saying that for best HT experience, use three identical towers for LCR. I built my dedicated HT with three large alcoves in the wall (directly behind an accoustically transparent screen) to house three front towers.

Questions:

1. Would you all agree that if one can place it directly behind the screen as I describe, a timber matching tower for the center chanel will outperform a typical horizontal center speaker?

2. To save a little money would it be OK to use two larger towers (say Klipsch RP-260F) for left and right and a smaller tower (still bigger than a horizontal center) from the same family (say Klipsch RP-250F) for the center?

3. Or since the center is the powerhouse for HT, would it be better to use the larger one in the center (say Klipsch RP-260) and the smaller siblings (Klipsch RP-250) for Left-front and Right-front?

Setup
Room = 15 x 27
No, not set on speaker family yet but intend to do a 7.2.4 setup. (The 4 atmos will be in-ceiling)
Will probably use a Yamaha 3070 with an external amp to get 11 powered channels.
Doubt I will ever go in there to listen to music. HT only.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zorba922 View Post
1. yes

2. vs 3., I would definitely pick 3.

15 x 27 room, make sure you budget for an adequate sub or two, something in the $800-1200 range apiece. Towers not super necessary if you have good subs in play, esp. for HT-only use.

Klipsch RP if you decide to go that way shouldn't require external amps since they have high sensitivity.
^^ This ^^

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Originally Posted by jjackkrash View Post
IIRC, he's got nine amps in the Yamie so he just needs 2 more amp channels, i.e., it will process 11 channels with a 2-channel external amp.
While probably not necessary, esp with those speakers, I think I would opt for a 3 channel amp to even out the power distribution across the towers and let the Yamie drive the rest.
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post #8 of 101 Old 09-22-2017, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ALtlOff View Post
^^ This ^^



While probably not necessary, esp with those speakers, I think I would opt for a 3 channel amp to even out the power distribution across the towers and let the Yamie drive the rest.
I agree 100%; get a 3 channel monoprice monolith for LCR and call it a day.
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post #9 of 101 Old 09-22-2017, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jjackkrash View Post
IIRC, he's got nine amps in the Yamie so he just needs 2 more amp channels, i.e., it will process 11 channels with a 2-channel external amp.
Ah, I misread, I'm not super-familiar with the Yamaha line, when I read external amps I thought he was talking about the Yamaha Pre/Pro and not one of their receivers. So yeah, he just needs one extra amp, though the other suggestions to make it a three-channel to drive the front stage and use the built-in amps for the surrounds and ceilings make sense if the Yamaha will allow that configuration.
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post #10 of 101 Old 09-23-2017, 01:59 AM
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Not too sure about the alcoves tho.
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post #11 of 101 Old 09-23-2017, 08:13 AM
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For movies, the center channel is most important, so it should be the same "size" as the L/R, if not larger.

I'd rather be overwhelmed by the center, then underwhelmed by it. It's very easy to decrease the trim of a full sounding center, whereas turning up the volume on a thin sounding center is not rewarding.

My preference would be to keep the front 3 in the same line/series.
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post #12 of 101 Old 09-23-2017, 08:59 AM
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I have 7 towers in the downstairs theater with 2 18"subs +4 bookshelf in the ceiling for atmos.
The towers are not necessary for surrounds , but that is how it ended up.

The nice thing about having towers I find they work extremely well as MBM's(mid-bass-modules).
They fill in very well above the sub frequencies.

My 11 channel AVR has extra help from a couple of external amplifiers for the 4ohm towers.

The front 3 are Monitor Audio silver 10's and a silver 8 as a center behind a AT screen.
The whole system blends very well. The full envelopment with atmos is amazing!
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post #13 of 101 Old 09-23-2017, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jnklight@comcast.net View Post
Doubt I will ever go in there to listen to music. HT only.
RPs are a good choice.

I second what Zorba suggested including the fact than likely no external amp is required.

What subs are you running?

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post #14 of 101 Old 09-23-2017, 11:26 AM
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If you have the ability to run three identical speakers across the front stage that should be your play, period.

Consider yourself fortunate as most enthusiasts do not have that option. Having one speaker different than the other two would be a wasted opportunity.
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post #15 of 101 Old 09-23-2017, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by jnklight@comcast.net View Post
3. Or since the center is the powerhouse for HT, would it be better to use the larger one in the center (say Klipsch RP-260) and the smaller siblings (Klipsch RP-250) for Left-front and Right-front?
Actually, if you wanted to save some bucks you could even go with RP-160 for your L/R and any of the RP towers for the center---for HT I'll bet that would actually sound the best for the least money.

~ Are you a "geek hobbyist" obsessed with squeezing out that last 5-10% improvement? The economy will thank you...especially the Chinese one. Or are you more of a get-set-and-forget "casual user" who simply wants to increase your enjoyment of movies, TV and gaming? Relax, HT isn't rocket science, nor does it have to cost an arm and a leg---especially if you ignore the aforementioned vocal minority. And remember to smile...it's just a silly hobby, after all. :)
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post #16 of 101 Old 09-24-2017, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Zorba922 View Post
Actually, if you wanted to save some bucks you could even go with RP-160 for your L/R and any of the RP towers for the center---for HT I'll bet that would actually sound the best for the least money.
Trouble is that unlike the towers Klipsch does not sell the excellent RP160s individually.

I asked about the sub because three RP250s across the front vs. three RP260s won't really make a huge difference as they share the identical tweeter and the RP250s have a speaker cone area equivalent to one 7" drive which is what I use in my HT.

The savings of $750 would allow for a sub upgrade or getting a second matching sub depending upon whether the OP has a decent sub already.

Better sub(s) will make a far bigger difference than choosing the 260s over the 250s would.

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post #17 of 101 Old 09-24-2017, 10:15 AM
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Trouble is that unlike the towers Klipsch does not sell the excellent RP160s individually.
I know, that's why I was suggesting a pair of the RP160s with a single Klipsch RP tower as vertical center since it seems the OP is able to buy those individually.

~ Are you a "geek hobbyist" obsessed with squeezing out that last 5-10% improvement? The economy will thank you...especially the Chinese one. Or are you more of a get-set-and-forget "casual user" who simply wants to increase your enjoyment of movies, TV and gaming? Relax, HT isn't rocket science, nor does it have to cost an arm and a leg---especially if you ignore the aforementioned vocal minority. And remember to smile...it's just a silly hobby, after all. :)
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post #18 of 101 Old 09-24-2017, 10:23 AM
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I know, that's why I was suggesting a pair of the RP160s with a single Klipsch RP tower as vertical center since it seems the OP is able to buy those individually.
That is not a crazy idea at all.

My left and right towers have a single 1" dome and a single 7" main driver.

My massive center, (not a tower), has two 7" main drivers and a single 1.5" elevated tweeter and was sorta/kinda sold as an LCR before that kind of thing was common but I wanted towers for the L/R as the cats knocked over anything on a stand.
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post #19 of 101 Old 09-25-2017, 02:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Some really interesting ideas here. I still think I'll stick with full towers up front but what I believe I hear you saying is that I'd be better off with three 250s as long as I pair it with a couple of good subs. Since the 250s, 260s, and 280s all share the same tweeter, I won't really tell the difference as long as I have a good sub solution. Do I have that right?

What about the Reference series (R28, R26, R24). It seems like the only difference between the reference (28, 26, 24) and the reference premier (280, 260, 250) is that the tweeter is made out of aluminum instead of titanium. Is the reference series' aluminum what makes some people feel ear fatigue? Is the titanium in the newer reference preimer series what keeps klipsch bright without the ear fatigue?

What about timber? Does anyone know if the reference (R28, R26, R24) are timber matched with the reference premier (280, 260, 250)? I ask because the R28s (Towers with one tweeter and two 8" drivers) are currently on sale. But if those tweeters aren't great or if they won't play well with the 150s I have coming in the mail, I don't want to mess with them. Oh yea... I went ahead and purchased the 150s a couple days ago while they were on sale and plan on using them for rear surrounds.
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post #20 of 101 Old 09-25-2017, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jnklight@comcast.net View Post
Some really interesting ideas here. I still think I'll stick with full towers up front but what I believe I hear you saying is that I'd be better off with three 250s as long as I pair it with a couple of good subs. Since the 250s, 260s, and 280s all share the same tweeter, I won't really tell the difference as long as I have a good sub solution. Do I have that right?

What about the Reference series (R28, R26, R24). It seems like the only difference between the reference (28, 26, 24) and the reference premier (280, 260, 250) is that the tweeter is made out of aluminum instead of titanium. Is the reference series' aluminum what makes some people feel ear fatigue? Is the titanium in the newer reference preimer series what keeps klipsch bright without the ear fatigue?

What about timber? Does anyone know if the reference (R28, R26, R24) are timber matched with the reference premier (280, 260, 250)? I ask because the R28s (Towers with one tweeter and two 8" drivers) are currently on sale. But if those tweeters aren't great or if they won't play well with the 150s I have coming in the mail, I don't want to mess with them. Oh yea... I went ahead and purchased the 150s a couple days ago while they were on sale and plan on using them for rear surrounds.
Yes, I'd go with the RP-250s if you must have towers, in order to have more money left over for really good subwoofer(s).

The RP series by all accounts have finally tamed Klipsch's longstanding and infamous "brightness" or "treble harshness" issues; the R series is the previous generation which have not. So the RP would be a much safer choice unless you actually prefer a "bright" speaker (some folks actually do, many of them being of a certain age and having had high frequency hearing loss).

I would only get the R series as surrounds in order to save some bucks.

~ Are you a "geek hobbyist" obsessed with squeezing out that last 5-10% improvement? The economy will thank you...especially the Chinese one. Or are you more of a get-set-and-forget "casual user" who simply wants to increase your enjoyment of movies, TV and gaming? Relax, HT isn't rocket science, nor does it have to cost an arm and a leg---especially if you ignore the aforementioned vocal minority. And remember to smile...it's just a silly hobby, after all. :)
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post #21 of 101 Old 09-25-2017, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Zorba922 View Post
Yes, I'd go with the RP-250s if you must have towers, in order to have more money left over for really good subwoofer(s).

The RP series by all accounts have finally tamed Klipsch's longstanding and infamous "brightness" or "treble harshness" issues; the R series is the previous generation which have not. So the RP would be a much safer choice unless you actually prefer a "bright" speaker (some folks actually do, many of them being of a certain age and having had high frequency hearing loss).

I would only get the R series as surrounds in order to save some bucks.
Actually the RP series replaces the RF series, (the RF centers were called RC just to confuse matters), and have many upgrades as per the link.

The "R" series would be suitable for surround speakers but not for fronts.

http://www.klipsch.com/blog/klipsch-...ce-ii-speakers
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post #22 of 101 Old 09-25-2017, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnklight@comcast.net View Post
Some really interesting ideas here. I still think I'll stick with full towers up front but what I believe I hear you saying is that I'd be better off with three 250s as long as I pair it with a couple of good subs. Since the 250s, 260s, and 280s all share the same tweeter, I won't really tell the difference as long as I have a good sub solution. Do I have that right?

What about the Reference series (R28, R26, R24). It seems like the only difference between the reference (28, 26, 24) and the reference premier (280, 260, 250) is that the tweeter is made out of aluminum instead of titanium. Is the reference series' aluminum what makes some people feel ear fatigue? Is the titanium in the newer reference preimer series what keeps klipsch bright without the ear fatigue?

What about timber? Does anyone know if the reference (R28, R26, R24) are timber matched with the reference premier (280, 260, 250)? I ask because the R28s (Towers with one tweeter and two 8" drivers) are currently on sale. But if those tweeters aren't great or if they won't play well with the 150s I have coming in the mail, I don't want to mess with them. Oh yea... I went ahead and purchased the 150s a couple days ago while they were on sale and plan on using them for rear surrounds.
The RP250s with dual 5.25" woofers are equivalent to a single 7" driver which is what I have in my main Home Theater so you'll be fine.

The difference between the RP250s and RP260s would pay for a HSU VTF2 with money left over.

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post #23 of 101 Old 09-26-2017, 12:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Actually the RP series replaces the RF series, (the RF centers were called RC just to confuse matters), and have many upgrades as per the link.

The "R" series would be suitable for surround speakers but not for fronts.

http://www.klipsch.com/blog/klipsch-...ce-ii-speakers
Alright I'm sold. I'm going with the RP series. I hate to do this to you but I do have two final questions. First let me tell you what I've decided so far:

Klipsch RP 250s for all three LCR
Klipsch RP 150s for the rear surrounds
A couple good 10" Subs from..... someone. Still have to finish my research on that.

Question 1: Side Surrounds
Now, as for side surrounds, you should know that my wall face is about 6 feet from MLP but only 3 feet from side listeners. I was thinking it would be best to do in-wall speakers for the sides just to make sure the side listener gets that full 3 feet of space from the speaker. However those are expensive so I was thinking about the Klipash R-3650-W IIs
http://www.klipsch.com/products/refe...el=r-3650-w-ii
which are $300 each. I briefly considered the R-5650-S IIs for their dual directional tweeters but if I understand Atmos setups correctly, you don't want a very wide dispersion on the sides.

However after reading about how great the RP series is, should I be choosing the RP 160s for the sides? They're in the RP line, quite a bit cheaper at $440/pair and in a real cabinet rather than losing sound inside the wall. But is the tradeoff of losing a foot of space between the side listener and the speaker worth it?

Question 2: In-Ceiling for Atmos
There's no way I can afford 4 high-end in-ceiling speakers for Atmos at $400 a pop. The best I can do is the Klipsch R-1800-C
http://www.klipsch.com/products/refe...model=r-1800-c
which is like 10th from the top (second from the bottom) in the Reference line ($130 each) for in-ceiling Klipsch. In fact, I'm not even sure it's considered reference. Is that going to be OK for Atmos in-ceiling or should I just give up my hopes and dreams for Atmos? I've heard it, love it and want Atmos in my HT!!!
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post #24 of 101 Old 09-26-2017, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jnklight@comcast.net View Post
Alright I'm sold. I'm going with the RP series. I hate to do this to you but I do have two final questions. First let me tell you what I've decided so far:

Klipsch RP 250s for all three LCR
Klipsch RP 150s for the rear surrounds
A couple good 10" Subs from..... someone. Still have to finish my research on that.

Question 1: Side Surrounds
Now, as for side surrounds, you should know that my wall face is about 6 feet from MLP but only 3 feet from side listeners. I was thinking it would be best to do in-wall speakers for the sides just to make sure the side listener gets that full 3 feet of space from the speaker. However those are expensive so I was thinking about the Klipash R-3650-W IIs
http://www.klipsch.com/products/refe...el=r-3650-w-ii
which are $300 each. I briefly considered the R-5650-S IIs for their dual directional tweeters but if I understand Atmos setups correctly, you don't want a very wide dispersion on the sides.

However after reading about how great the RP series is, should I be choosing the RP 160s for the sides? They're in the RP line, quite a bit cheaper at $440/pair and in a real cabinet rather than losing sound inside the wall. But is the tradeoff of losing a foot of space between the side listener and the speaker worth it?

Question 2: In-Ceiling for Atmos
There's no way I can afford 4 high-end in-ceiling speakers for Atmos at $400 a pop. The best I can do is the Klipsch R-1800-C
http://www.klipsch.com/products/refe...model=r-1800-c
which is like 10th from the top (second from the bottom) in the Reference line ($130 each) for in-ceiling Klipsch. In fact, I'm not even sure it's considered reference. Is that going to be OK for Atmos in-ceiling or should I just give up my hopes and dreams for Atmos? I've heard it, love it and want Atmos in my HT!!!
The most important speakers will be your front three and your subs; the rest don't have to be RP or even Klipsch IMHO.

HSU in walls would be a solid in wall choice.

http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/hiw-1.html

And RSL ceiling speakers would be a great in ceiling choice.

https://rslspeakers.com/c34e-ceiling-speaker/

Both have plenty of dynamic capability for effects to keep up with the RPs.

BTW, you should buy a pair of RP250s first and try them in stereo just on the off chance you don't like them.

As to subs, why 10"?

Here are some great choices.

PORTED SUBWOOFERS $600 AND BELOW, DELIVERED

Specs are from the manufacturer unless noted otherwise.


150watts =11w18h13d= 18 lbs 8" [28hz] $199 EMOTIVA BASX S8
200watts =14w16h16d= 34 lbs 10" [27hz] $299 EMOTIVA BASX S10
300watts =17w18h18d= 49 lbs 12" [22hz] $399 EMOTIVA BASX S12, (extension from Brent Butterworth measurement)
350watts =15w16h17d= 40 lbs 10" [30hz] $399 RSL SPEEDWOOFER 10S, (extension from Sound & Vision review)
250watts =15w19h17d= 42 lbs 10" [22hz] $433 HSU VTF 1 MK3
200 watts =16w19h17d= 52 lbs 12" [22hz] $439 HTD LEVEL THREE
300watts =15w19h20d= 46 lbs 10" [18hz] $499 SVS PB1000, (extension from Sound & Vision Review)
500watts =15w19h20d= 72 lbs 10" [20hz] $500 MONOPRICE MONOLITH THX 10" (coming soon)
300watts =16w22h21d= 69 lbs* 12" [19hz] $549 RHYTHMIK LV12R
350watts =15w21h22d= 62 lbs 12" [18hz] $604 HSU VTF2 MK5, (verified by Audioholics review)
* = shipping weight

SEALED SUBWOOFERS $650 AND BELOW, DELIVERED

300watts =18w15h15d= 50 lbs 10" [27hz] $189 JBL STUDIO 550 (short term promo price Amazon)
300watts =13w14h16d= 27 lbs 12" [23hz] $499 SVS SB1000, (extension from Sound & Vision)
300watts =14w14h16d= 58 lbs* 12" [18hz] $539 RHYTHMIK L12
500watts =14w15h17d= 35 lbs 12" [19hz] $649 SVS SB2000 outlet, (extension from Sound & Vision)
* = shipping weight

Geoff A. J., California
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post #25 of 101 Old 09-27-2017, 01:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gajCA View Post
The most important speakers will be your front three and your subs; the rest don't have to be RP or even Klipsch IMHO.

HSU in walls would be a solid in wall choice.

http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/hiw-1.html

And RSL ceiling speakers would be a great in ceiling choice.

https://rslspeakers.com/c34e-ceiling-speaker/

Both have plenty of dynamic capability for effects to keep up with the RPs.
So you're saying that I really don't need to have my surrounds and atmos in ceiling speakers match the fronts? I thought there was an issue of timber matching as the sound moves around the room.
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post #26 of 101 Old 09-27-2017, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jnklight@comcast.net View Post
Alright I'm sold. I'm going with the RP series. I hate to do this to you but I do have two final questions. First let me tell you what I've decided so far:

Klipsch RP 250s for all three LCR
Klipsch RP 150s for the rear surrounds
A couple good 10" Subs from..... someone. Still have to finish my research on that.

Question 1: Side Surrounds
Now, as for side surrounds, you should know that my wall face is about 6 feet from MLP but only 3 feet from side listeners. I was thinking it would be best to do in-wall speakers for the sides just to make sure the side listener gets that full 3 feet of space from the speaker. However those are expensive so I was thinking about the Klipash R-3650-W IIs
http://www.klipsch.com/products/refe...el=r-3650-w-ii
which are $300 each. I briefly considered the R-5650-S IIs for their dual directional tweeters but if I understand Atmos setups correctly, you don't want a very wide dispersion on the sides.

However after reading about how great the RP series is, should I be choosing the RP 160s for the sides? They're in the RP line, quite a bit cheaper at $440/pair and in a real cabinet rather than losing sound inside the wall. But is the tradeoff of losing a foot of space between the side listener and the speaker worth it?

Question 2: In-Ceiling for Atmos
There's no way I can afford 4 high-end in-ceiling speakers for Atmos at $400 a pop. The best I can do is the Klipsch R-1800-C
http://www.klipsch.com/products/refe...model=r-1800-c
which is like 10th from the top (second from the bottom) in the Reference line ($130 each) for in-ceiling Klipsch. In fact, I'm not even sure it's considered reference. Is that going to be OK for Atmos in-ceiling or should I just give up my hopes and dreams for Atmos? I've heard it, love it and want Atmos in my HT!!!
Not sure if you've answered the other important question yet, Zorba suggested getting RP-160m as L/R's, if you can do bookshelf speakers (since these are going behind the screen anyways) then you can save a lot of money by going that route. Then, you could possibly go with an RP-260 center (which will improve slightly on the 250), or just put more money towards subs. I think the point i'm trying to get across here is that the front 3 really don't have to be identical in the first place. Having that bigger center channel will absolutely not hinder the system as a whole: since that's the speaker that matters most. You're lucky you have an AT screen and don't need to consider aesthetic of horizontal center channels, most people (like myself) have to make that very compromise with a horizontal center channel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jnklight@comcast.net View Post
So you're saying that I really don't need to have my surrounds and atmos in ceiling speakers match the fronts? I thought there was an issue of timber matching as the sound moves around the room.
No, they don't need to match the fronts. The sound moves around the room maybe just a few times in any film, where people could actually (try) noticing any timber matching. Matching surrounds would perhaps take the priority (even though it's still not super important) over matching ceiling speakers: matching ceiling speakers should be the last concern anyone should have. Even if one wanted to match surrounds, matching merely the brand is most-times sufficient (any klipsch speaker for instance, rather than a RP speaker)

Go with the cheapest ceiling speakers that will get the job done. I would suggest the same for surrounds, unless getting matching (brand) speaker is a convenient and cheap proposition.

----------------------------
Edit:
Just taking a glance at amazons pricing (so don't know if these are the best or not), you can get a pair of RP-160m's for around $360-400 (like-new used) and they can drop below the $350 mark too. A similar pair of RP-250's is going to be $500 (like-new used). So you would be saving $150: that's about enough to get a next-tier-up subwoofer, or (if you wanted, for $50 of that $150 you're saving) to upgrade to an RP-260F center channel that is $300 (like-new used). The benefits in upgrading to that 260F would be pretty minimal, but still, it's an option.

Denon 1612 ; Klipsch RP-160m ; Klipsch RP-250c ; Wharfedale Valdus 300 ; Emotiva Basx s12

Last edited by gygess; 09-27-2017 at 01:34 PM.
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post #27 of 101 Old 09-27-2017, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jnklight@comcast.net View Post
So you're saying that I really don't need to have my surrounds and atmos in ceiling speakers match the fronts? I thought there was an issue of timber matching as the sound moves around the room.
In a perfect world they would all be timber matched, but most of the meaningful sounds will be coming from L/C/R. The surrounds are almost always for effects. How much do you want to spend to ensure that gunshots, explosions, wind, chirping birds, helicopters, etc... sound identical from the back to the front of your system?
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post #28 of 101 Old 09-27-2017, 02:08 PM
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So you're saying that I really don't need to have my surrounds and atmos in ceiling speakers match the fronts? I thought there was an issue of timber matching as the sound moves around the room.
Dolby still recommends timbre matching all speakers as closely as possible. See page 7:

https://www.dolby.com/us/en/technolo...guidelines.pdf

Eq/room correction software and and auto-level matching may make this less important. I view having the same or at least similar speakers all the way around as a "best practices" type of thing. I think the set up should be optimized as much as possible before eq and room correction are applied as eq can have unintended consequences and won't fix all set up issues.
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post #29 of 101 Old 09-27-2017, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by jjackkrash View Post
Dolby still recommends timbre matching all speakers as closely as possible. See page 7:

https://www.dolby.com/us/en/technolo...guidelines.pdf

Eq/room correction software and and auto-level matching may make this less important. I view having the same or at least similar speakers all the way around as a "best practices" type of thing. I think the set up should be optimized as much as possible before eq and room correction are applied as eq can have unintended consequences and won't fix all set up issues.
I agree - I'm a proponent of timbre matching. BUT, most of us don't have quite the same budget flexibility as Dolby Labs.
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post #30 of 101 Old 09-27-2017, 02:28 PM
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I agree - I'm a proponent of timbre matching. BUT, most of us don't have quite the same budget flexibility as Dolby Labs.
My rears in my 5.1 system are 35 year old B&Ws, my fronts are 10 year old Ushers.

They play together just fine and I have a 7 year old version of Audyssey.

Dragon still sounds like a real dragon!

Geoff A. J., California
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