Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 39025 Old 06-20-2006, 06:26 PM
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Hello I also have a question regrading the Polk Mains, What would most people recomend Rti8 or the Monitor 70's since they are some what close in price. Thank You for your help
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post #362 of 39025 Old 06-20-2006, 09:27 PM
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Paired with a sub? Rti8. I have them and they sound wonderfull, and have better tweeter than the Monitor line. They also are made of solid wood.
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post #363 of 39025 Old 06-22-2006, 03:33 PM
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whats are you powering them with?
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post #364 of 39025 Old 06-22-2006, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panndder View Post

Paired with a sub? Rti8. I have them and they sound wonderfull, and have better tweeter than the Monitor line. They also are made of solid wood.

Actually they are made of mdf and have a real wood veneer.
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post #365 of 39025 Old 06-22-2006, 04:50 PM
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Sorry, I shouldn't have said solid wood. They do, however have the look of real wood and the consistancy (from a manufacturing perspective) of fiberboard.
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post #366 of 39025 Old 06-23-2006, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monster Jam View Post

I can't wait to hook them up and drive my AVR to protection mode!

Well, it didn't take long to get to the promised land called "Protection Mode". Strangely enough, it didn't happen during the operation of the speakers.

Maybe one of you experts can discuss how or why it (my Harman Kardon AVR 525, rated at 70 watts x 7 all channels driven) went into Protection Mode.

I can't exactly tell you how it happened, because I wasn't there: I was downstairs. I just heard my wife say that the receiver wasn't working. I went upstairs and saw that some of the lights were on, but the LED screen didn't look right and the DVD was playing but no sound was coming out of the receiver. I turned it off, and thats when it went into the protection mode.

My theory is that the speakers are drawing power from the amp when the DVD player is on but not sending audio signal. Am I crazy?

(Incidentaly, I am driving 4 LSi15s and a LSiC)
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post #367 of 39025 Old 06-23-2006, 06:12 PM
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Lsi15s are a very difficult speaker to drive.... they are 4 ohm and 86 db... I don't think that the Harman Kardon AVR 525 has enough current to drive these speaker well..... check the owners manual to see what it says about 4 ohm speakers...

Don
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post #368 of 39025 Old 06-25-2006, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fergusonv View Post

The 10's and 12's are 4ohm speakers (Polk lists them as 8 but they are not) and require a hefty amp, only flagship recievers and dedicated amps should be used with them with means more $$ on the electronics side..

Now I read this...lol. Oh well, I just ordered a pair of 12's and have a Yamaha HTR5280 100wpc x 5 @ 8 ohms AVR. If they are really 4 ohm speakers should they be run at 4 ohms? At least that would be 200wpc on the fronts. I also have a set of Fxi5's. With the fronts in the 4ohm slot, the rears are going to get 6 ohms and the Fxi5's are 8 so that should work.

It seems highly irregular that the manufacture would list an incorrect nominal impedance and from what I understand it varies with frequency so when they list nominal as 8 that's not necessarily incorrect. Thoughts?
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post #369 of 39025 Old 06-25-2006, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mmcguire View Post

Now I read this...lol. Oh well, I just ordered a pair of 12's and have a Yamaha HTR5280 100wpc x 5 @ 8 ohms AVR. If they are really 4 ohm speakers should they be run at 4 ohms? At least that would be 200wpc on the fronts. I also have a set of Fxi5's. With the fronts in the 4ohm slot, the rears are going to get 6 ohms and the Fxi5's are 8 so that should work.

It seems highly irregular that the manufacture would list an incorrect nominal impedance and from what I understand it varies with frequency so when they list nominal as 8 that's not necessarily incorrect. Thoughts?

The manufactorer did not post incorrect info. I own the RTi12's.
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post #370 of 39025 Old 06-26-2006, 06:35 AM
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The Polk RTi and CSi series are 8 ohms nominal, 4 ohms dc resistance. What that means in real world situations is that you need a hefty amp to power these speakers, or at minimum use bass management. If you call Polk's tech service, they'll tell you the same thing. If you connect just the top half (upper binding posts unstrapped) of an RTi12 or RTi10, your AVR will see ~7.3 ohm dc resistance. Your top half (no 7" drivers) will open up like you've never heard them before (assuming you're using a mid-fi AVR).

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../9-4-05042.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../9-4-05041.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1.../9-4-05040.jpg

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post #371 of 39025 Old 06-26-2006, 10:53 PM
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Gotcha, now on to Amp settings. This 500 wpc amp has a two way speaker impedance switch one position for 8 ohms f/r and the other for 4 ohms front, 6 ohms rear. I'm guessing that would put 200wpc on the fronts and 50wpc on the rears or 175 on the fronts and 75 on the rear. Granted still underpowered but alot better than 100wpc.

Since these are 4 ohm speakers shouldn't you configure your amp to drive them at 4 ohms?
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post #372 of 39025 Old 06-27-2006, 09:36 AM
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I'm currently finishing up my home theater that is 15x19.5. I have the Polk RTi70 for mains, CS400 for the center and FX300 for surround. Also two 10" 120 subs. These speakers sounded good in my last room with lots of doors and windows. My new room being totally dedicated with just one door and zero windows. I'm going with 7.1 and bought the R15's for the back surrounds. Now I'm having second thoughts. Should I stick with this set up or maybe think about RTi4's or inwalls. I'm not into spending the extra money for hardly any difference in sound.
What's your opinions
Thanks,
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post #373 of 39025 Old 06-27-2006, 09:53 AM
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>Should I stick with this set up or maybe think about RTi4's or inwalls.

Did you mean should you use rti4's for the 6th and 7th channel? Probably overkill. If you meant should you use them for the side surrounds? Yeah, they are pretty good there. It's where i have mine. Rti4's will sound better than most any in-walls you would consider. But as 6th and 7th channels, due to the lack of material that gets sent back there, I don't know if it would be a waste of money. My 6th and 7th are cheapy single-4.5" driver speakers from my first "upgrade" years ago....
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post #374 of 39025 Old 06-27-2006, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cneely8 View Post

>Should I stick with this set up or maybe think about RTi4's or inwalls.

Did you mean should you use rti4's for the 6th and 7th channel? Probably overkill. If you meant should you use them for the side surrounds? Yeah, they are pretty good there. It's where i have mine. Rti4's will sound better than most any in-walls you would consider. But as 6th and 7th channels, due to the lack of material that gets sent back there, I don't know if it would be a waste of money. My 6th and 7th are cheapy single-4.5" driver speakers from my first "upgrade" years ago....

CNEELY8,
Would you replace the FX300's with the RTi4's and go with the R15's for the back channels?
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post #375 of 39025 Old 06-27-2006, 04:31 PM
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>Would you replace the FX300's with the RTi4's and go with the R15's for the back channels?

Is the fx300 the older version of the fxi3? If so, is it dipolar? or bipolar? or whatever they call it? I haven't experimented with anything but direct radiating speakers, like the rti series, so if the fx300's are di/bipolar, then I can't tell you which to use. Some folks claim the additional drivers add depth to the soundstage.

About the r15's, like I said, I'm not real particular about my 6th and 7th channels, so I'd say use "whatever" since so little sound gets sent back there. It complements the other 5, but never seems to be a big deal that I use my really "bad" speakers there. If you get a chance to listen to the rti's, r15's, and the f300's, that's your best bet. Then you can make the call based on position in the system, price, and your preference on the sound.
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post #376 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 10:46 AM
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I know this is a noob question, but here goes. I just purchased the m40's for fronts and m30s for rears however I don't know is I need the thing that connecting the binding posts. What is that and what is it for. I am not bi-amping my system. Please help.
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post #377 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 11:00 AM
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The piece of plated metal connecting the two sets of binding posts is there so you dont have to bi-amp the speaker. If you remove those pieces you will have to bi-amp the speaker. Those peices connect the two sets of binding posts so you only have to connect speaker wire to one set of posts.

hope this makes sense
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post #378 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 11:06 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compgeek View Post

I know this is a noob question, but here goes. I just purchased the m40's for fronts and m30s for rears however I don't know is I need the thing that connecting the binding posts. What is that and what is it for. I am not bi-amping my system. Please help.

Polk makes a series called "M". I think you have the Monitors, which are a definite step up from the M's.
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post #379 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 11:34 AM
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Hairyfoot4

Thanks I removed them so I guess I now have to put them back. Does removing them in anyway affect the sound.

Pulliamm:

You are right I do have the Moniter series
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post #380 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 11:43 AM
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Removing them only powers the speaker(s) that specific pair of binding posts is connected to inside the speaker cabinet. So you probably want to put them back on unless of course your planing on bi-amping the speaker, then leave them off.
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post #381 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 11:43 AM
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Quote:


Thanks I removed them so I guess I now have to put them back. Does removing them in anyway affect the sound.

With out the metal straps between the two sets of binding post (or some other connection) you will only power either the tweeter or the woofer depending on if you connect to the top pair (tweeter) of bottom pair (woofer).

I do not use the metal straps that come with the speakers... I use jumper cables with banana plugs between the two sets of binding posts.... this really opened up the top end... larger sound stage and better imaging....

Hope this helps...

Don
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post #382 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 11:58 AM
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Thanks for all the responses it has been helpful.

Don1959
Could you elaborate on the jumper cable setting. I currently have banana plugs going into the top post. I have not heard of jumber cables before. If this could possibly give me a better sound I am all for it.
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post #383 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compgeek View Post

Thanks for all the responses it has been helpful.

Don1959
Could you elaborate on the jumper cable setting. I currently have banana plugs going into the top post. I have not heard of jumber cables before. If this could possibly give me a better sound I am all for it.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words....... The cables create a much better connection between the two sets of binding posts...

I run my speaker cable to the bottom set of posts and connect them with spades.... then the jumper cables carry the signal to the top set of post where they drive the tweeters...

Don
LL
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post #384 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 05:50 PM
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IDIOT QUESTION.

I have RTi8's (and a CSi5) and I have them connected to just the top. Would it sound better (from a HK 635) to have it hooked to both somehow?
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post #385 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 08:03 PM
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Hey Everyone,

For a 7.1 System, price not being a problem, I am thinking about getting either the Polk LSi 7.1 or the Energy RC 7.1 set-up.

For the Polk System I would be doing:

(2) Polk LSi 25
(2) Polk LSi 9
(2) Polk LSi FX
(1) Polk LSi C
(1) Energy RC-SUB10
(1) Sunfire Cinema Grand Seven TGA-7200 (Amp)
(1) Pioneer Elite VSX-84TXVi Receiver (Preamp)
(1) Monster HTPS 7000 (Power Conditioner)


Or if I do the Energy RC System I would be doing:

(2) RC-70
(2) RC-10
(2) RC-R
(1) RC-LCR
(1) Energy RC-SUB10
(1) Sunfire Cinema Grand Seven TGA-7200 (Amp)
(1) Pioneer Elite VSX-84TXVi Receiver (Preamp)
(1) Monster HTPS 7000 (Power Conditioner)

Which one do I go with for a Home Theater/Rec Room? Movies/Music = 75/25 Any suggestions? Please help! Thanks
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post #386 of 39025 Old 06-28-2006, 10:16 PM
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panndder - either like don1959 shows on his picture or to bi-amp ("have it hooked to both somehow") them.

yes it sound alot better.
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post #387 of 39025 Old 06-29-2006, 08:35 AM
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Thanks Don1959

I will try setting up mine like your setup
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post #388 of 39025 Old 06-29-2006, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compgeek View Post

Thanks Don1959

I will try setting up mine like your setup

You need both sets of terminals hooked together. The plates that came on the speakers work fine. There's no need to create jumper cables when you have the originals.
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post #389 of 39025 Old 06-29-2006, 09:50 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnythan View Post

You need both sets of terminals hooked together. The plates that came on the speakers work fine. There's no need to create jumper cables when you have the originals.

Right. The plates and the jumper cables do exactly the same thing.
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post #390 of 39025 Old 06-29-2006, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PULLIAMM View Post

Right. The plates and the jumper cables do exactly the same thing.

They do perform the same function..... but, in my setup, there is a very noticeable improvement in sound quality, The cables "seem" to create a better (cleaner?) connection.

I really noticed the difference when I switched to the cables.... the top end opened up the image became bigger, tighter... maybe a bit smoother....

I was thinking of bi-wiring, but it was suggested to try this relatively inexpensive solution...

anyway... just make sure that you have a good connection between the two and I believe that it is best to connect the speaker cable to the lower set.

All this is just based on what I hear... your ears may vary...

Don
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