Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 1347 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #40381 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Nightraven View Post
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Originally Posted by PretzelFisch View Post
the rti 12 is the previous generation of the rti a9 the changes are not just aesthetic. But it's probably not enough of an improvement to spend money on if you like the rti 12 look. Most people say they cannot hear a difference between the two. In regards to amp, your avr will power them. If you find them lacking in dynamics try an amp. If you use a sub, you probably don't need to run them on an external amp.
The RTI 12s are $800 and the A9s are $1000. Are the A9's worth the extra $200? They are still the same price as the A7s.
I own RTi12s... see my pic and sig... Anywho... i can tell you from what I've had to compare to the A9s... the 12s are a bit boomier, tighter bass although the highs are a bit bright as well. Nothing proper room acoustics and a small EQ adjustment cant fix. The A9s have a warmer sound.. slightly, due to a small xover upgrade, but i thought the bass was looser... which is hard to correct. A9s have a nicer cabinet, but i would still take my 12s over the 9s anyday.

I power them bi-amped @145 with my SC-87 which drives them effortlessly. But i can tell you... anything less than 110w/ch and you will struggle to push these babies.

My advice... buy a 9.2 reciver; use 8 and 9 amps to bi-amp your fronts and still run your 7ch surround.... whichever you choose...
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post #40382 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by linkamus View Post
I own RTi12s... see my pic and sig... Anywho... i can tell you from what I've had to compare to the A9s... the 12s are a bit boomier, tighter bass although the highs are a bit bright as well. Nothing proper room acoustics and a small EQ adjustment cant fix. The A9s have a warmer sound.. slightly, due to a small xover upgrade, but i thought the bass was looser... which is hard to correct. A9s have a nicer cabinet, but i would still take my 12s over the 9s anyday.

I power them bi-amped @145 with my SC-87 which drives them effortlessly. But i can tell you... anything less than 110w/ch and you will struggle to push these babies.

My advice... buy a 9.2 reciver; use 8 and 9 amps to bi-amp your fronts and still run your 7ch surround.... whichever you choose...
The description you gave for your 12's pretty much describe my 9's to a T!


If I'm not mistaken, biamping from an AVR is probably not as beneficial as the manufacturers lead a consumer to believe. Unless you have ICE amps, where running multiple channels hold their power, the majority of AVR's lose power as you add channels, so even though a guy would use two channels to power one speaker, the power output per channel is less than before.


If a guy want's to put beneficial power to a speaker, an external power amp is going to give you the best results.


Boomy bass and tighter bass from what I've experienced, are opposites, boomy is sloppy, tighter is not.


From personal experience, the mid and upper region can be toned down a bit, just by adding power. An AVR pushing 135wpc X 2 ch driven and an amp pushing 200wpc leaves the tweeter edgy and harsh. Add 300w and above, and suddenly, cymbals and horns lose their grind, they become way more smooth.


These speakers have a personality of their own and can definitely be fine tuned, but the woofers will suck up power like no other. If you don't have sufficient power to drive them and like to play strong audio tracks loud with lots of pounding LFE, the speakers are most likely going to endure some clipping.


If a guy likes 2ch listening at moderate levels, these big speakers are great and can be enjoyed on an AVR. You want to use them to their potential, get an amp!!!
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post #40383 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linkamus View Post
I own RTi12s... see my pic and sig... Anywho... i can tell you from what I've had to compare to the A9s... the 12s are a bit boomier, tighter bass although the highs are a bit bright as well. Nothing proper room acoustics and a small EQ adjustment cant fix. The A9s have a warmer sound.. slightly, due to a small xover upgrade, but i thought the bass was looser... which is hard to correct. A9s have a nicer cabinet, but i would still take my 12s over the 9s anyday.

I power them bi-amped @145 with my SC-87 which drives them effortlessly. But i can tell you... anything less than 110w/ch and you will struggle to push these babies.

My advice... buy a 9.2 reciver; use 8 and 9 amps to bi-amp your fronts and still run your 7ch surround.... whichever you choose...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post
The description you gave for your 12's pretty much describe my 9's to a T!


If I'm not mistaken, biamping from an AVR is probably not as beneficial as the manufacturers lead a consumer to believe. Unless you have ICE amps, where running multiple channels hold their power, the majority of AVR's lose power as you add channels, so even though a guy would use two channels to power one speaker, the power output per channel is less than before.


If a guy want's to put beneficial power to a speaker, an external power amp is going to give you the best results.


Boomy bass and tighter bass from what I've experienced, are opposites, boomy is sloppy, tighter is not.


From personal experience, the mid and upper region can be toned down a bit, just by adding power. An AVR pushing 135wpc X 2 ch driven and an amp pushing 200wpc leaves the tweeter edgy and harsh. Add 300w and above, and suddenly, cymbals and horns lose their grind, they become way more smooth.


These speakers have a personality of their own and can definitely be fine tuned, but the woofers will suck up power like no other. If you don't have sufficient power to drive them and like to play strong audio tracks loud with lots of pounding LFE, the speakers are most likely going to endure some clipping.


If a guy likes 2ch listening at moderate levels, these big speakers are great and can be enjoyed on an AVR. You want to use them to their potential, get an amp!!!
Bi-amping with your AVR is a waste of time with absolutely no benefits whatsoever. The only way to get more power to your 12s or 9s is to buy a separate amp.

I will elaborate a little.

Assuming you are running in stereo mode, your three bass drivers are taking 90% of your power. That leaves the mids and tweeters to draw the rest (about 10 - 15W). With two channels driven (the way most AVRs are rated) you are getting almost all of the 145W to the speakers.

Now switch to bi-amp mode. You are now using four channels. If your bass drivers are eating 90% of your power, you are lowering the signal to both speakers by asking the AVR power supply to feed all four channels (the internal power supply has a limited current throughput). At reference (or near reference) your bass drivers are still only getting about 120 - 130W. About the same as when the system was running two channels. The tweeters and mids will never draw much power. They will, however, start to distort as the AVR amplifier section starts to clip, which WILL happen at reference with power hungry speakers like the 12s and 9s.

To pressurize a medium to large room with these speakers, you will need to get near reference. That is not feasible with 130W of power. You will get loud, but the power and control will start to fade at the top end. You will have massive distortion as the amps are driven into clipping during hard bass lines (especially in movies and modern bass boosted music).

Now let's pretend that we say, "Well I don't listen that loud". Then the whole argument is moot and the speakers will never draw enough power to drive the AVR amp to clipping. Thus negating the need for more power through (passive) bi-amping or an external amp.

I can tell you that in movies with good bass hits, the LEDs on my XPA-2 300WPC amp jumps like a frog in a hot skillet during those hard notes at around -15dB (not even reference level) in a 4300 cu ft room that is not sealed. My speakers are also crossed over at 80 Hz with two power subs performing the heavy bass work.

Now we must visit the thought of having our speakers crossed over at 80 Hz or higher and using a decent subwoofer to do the heavy lifting. This takes a lot of the load off of the AVR amp section(s). Giving you more power to drive the mids and trebles.

If you are running almost any AVR in 5.1 or higher surround mode, your power to each channel will diminish with each added channel. One may have a 145 WPC AVR (2-channels driven), but those figures drop significantly with each added channel. With 5.1, you may only have 80 - 125WPC. With 7.1 or 9.1... well, you have to do the math.

There are literally hundreds of articles on passive bi-amping. They call it "fools" bi-amping for a reason, and before you judge me as a smug know-it-all, I too refused to believe this and ran my system in bi-amp before I could afford an amp. After purchasing an amp, I revisited the bi-amp theory and testing it out. I had no benefit when I ran bi-amped. When I ran with the dedicated amp, however, I was blown away at the performance increase on the high end.

Good luck and good listening my friend.
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Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Dual PSA XV-15se Subwoofers - Epson 5030UB Projector - Monoprice Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...

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post #40384 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 03:46 PM
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Has anyone else used raw Polk drivers and built your own speakers? This is what I did...

Bi-amped, PPSL (2 x 10" Eosone) w/open baffle (2 x Polk MW5530 & CSS tweeter)... these are flat to 40hz in a sealed arrangement, or 28hz in BR, max 400 + 220 Watts each
Denon AVR-890 (105W/ch, 4 channels in passive bi-amp)
Oh yeah, 61" DLP monitor for HT viewing
Using an old DBox 12" sub 'til I finish the 15"

For 2ch listening, they can
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post #40385 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SeanEK View Post
Has anyone else used raw Polk drivers and built your own speakers? This is what I did...
I took a pair of LSi in-walls a while back (bought on the cheap because the mounting structures were damaged rendering them useless as in-walls) and put the single 6" driver, Vifa tweeter and the crossover in a pair of PartExpress cherry cabinets. Almost more trouble then it was worth since neither the drivers nor the tweeters were designed for cabinet installation. But we managed to get them almost flush mounted from the back of the front baffle. Marketed them as "LSi 8's" and sold them on CL for $450/pr. Sounded really nice too. Wish I had kept the pictures.
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post #40386 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
Bi-amping with your AVR is a waste of time with absolutely no benefits whatsoever. The only way to get more power to your 12s or 9s is to buy a separate amp.

I will elaborate a little.

Assuming you are running in stereo mode, your three bass drivers are taking 90% of your power. That leaves the mids and tweeters to draw the rest (about 10 - 15W). With two channels driven (the way most AVRs are rated) you are getting almost all of the 145W to the speakers.

Now switch to bi-amp mode. You are now using four channels. If your bass drivers are eating 90% of your power, you are lowering the signal to both speakers by asking the AVR power supply to feed all four channels (the internal power supply has a limited current throughput). At reference (or near reference) your bass drivers are still only getting about 120 - 130W. About the same as when the system was running two channels. The tweeters and mids will never draw much power. They will, however, start to distort as the AVR amplifier section starts to clip, which WILL happen at reference with power hungry speakers like the 12s and 9s.

To pressurize a medium to large room with these speakers, you will need to get near reference. That is not feasible with 130W of power. You will get loud, but the power and control will start to fade at the top end. You will have massive distortion as the amps are driven into clipping during hard bass lines (especially in movies and modern bass boosted music).

Now let's pretend that we say, "Well I don't listen that loud". Then the whole argument is moot and the speakers will never draw enough power to drive the AVR amp to clipping. Thus negating the need for more power through (passive) bi-amping or an external amp.

I can tell you that in movies with good bass hits, the LEDs on my XPA-2 300WPC amp jumps like a frog in a hot skillet during those hard notes at around -15dB (not even reference level) in a 4300 cu ft room that is not sealed. My speakers are also crossed over at 80 Hz with two power subs performing the heavy bass work.

Now we must visit the thought of having our speakers crossed over at 80 Hz or higher and using a decent subwoofer to do the heavy lifting. This takes a lot of the load off of the AVR amp section(s). Giving you more power to drive the mids and trebles.

If you are running almost any AVR in 5.1 or higher surround mode, your power to each channel will diminish with each added channel. One may have a 145 WPC AVR (2-channels driven), but those figures drop significantly with each added channel. With 5.1, you may only have 80 - 125WPC. With 7.1 or 9.1... well, you have to do the math.

There are literally hundreds of articles on passive bi-amping. They call it "fools" bi-amping for a reason, and before you judge me as a smug know-it-all, I too refused to believe this and ran my system in bi-amp before I could afford an amp. After purchasing an amp, I revisited the bi-amp theory and testing it out. I had no benefit when I ran bi-amped. When I ran with the dedicated amp, however, I was blown away at the performance increase on the high end.

Good luck and good listening my friend.
Not smug at all good sir... this is why we come to these forums. To hear users experiences and tribal knowledge... along with technical knowledge as well. What I can tell you is this... I have had an audible difference in my RTi 12s from conventional hookup to Bi-Amp. My bass was really muddy before the bi-amp, almost non existent... since configuring to bi-amp, my bass has been clean and room filling. I listen to music in 2.0 and I have zero need for my sub to kick in. Its set to LFE only. Could be room acoustics however.

I'm not sure how Pioneers Class D3 AMPs differ from other D Class amps, but their major advertisement point on that is the minimization of power loss with more active CHs. I've been a fan of ELITEs for a very long time, so I have no other AVR to compare to. I will say though... I have been looking into AMPs anyway... and the XPA-2 and/or XPA-5 are on my radar.

Happy listening!

5.1 Media Room: ELITE SC-87 (Atmos), Samsung 65" PNF8500, Polk RTi-12's (FR Bi-Amp), B&W 686S2's (SR), B&W 600S-HTM61-S2 (C), Klipsch R-112SW (SW)
Sources: ELITE BDP-52F (BR), Toshiba-A1 (HDDVD), XBONE, PS4, WiiU, Chromecast
3.1 Family Room: ELITE VSX-81TXV, Samsung 55" UND5500LED, Monitor Audio Bronze B1's (FR Bi-Amp), Infinity IL25C (C), Denon DS-8 (SW)
Sources: DirecTV HR44-500 DVR, Samsung BDP-500, ROKU-3
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post #40387 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanEK View Post
Has anyone else used raw Polk drivers and built your own speakers? This is what I did...

Bi-amped, PPSL (2 x 10" Eosone) w/open baffle (2 x Polk MW5530 & CSS tweeter)... these are flat to 40hz in a sealed arrangement, or 28hz in BR, max 400 + 220 Watts each
Denon AVR-890 (105W/ch, 4 channels in passive bi-amp)
Oh yeah, 61" DLP monitor for HT viewing
Using an old DBox 12" sub 'til I finish the 15"

For 2ch listening, they can
NO I have not... but I have to say.... MAN! That is damn cool!

Just added something to my bucket list. Thanks!

5.1 Media Room: ELITE SC-87 (Atmos), Samsung 65" PNF8500, Polk RTi-12's (FR Bi-Amp), B&W 686S2's (SR), B&W 600S-HTM61-S2 (C), Klipsch R-112SW (SW)
Sources: ELITE BDP-52F (BR), Toshiba-A1 (HDDVD), XBONE, PS4, WiiU, Chromecast
3.1 Family Room: ELITE VSX-81TXV, Samsung 55" UND5500LED, Monitor Audio Bronze B1's (FR Bi-Amp), Infinity IL25C (C), Denon DS-8 (SW)
Sources: DirecTV HR44-500 DVR, Samsung BDP-500, ROKU-3
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post #40388 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 04:24 PM
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your welcome linkamus...the 70lbs of 3/4" baltic birch helps with stray vibrations too
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post #40389 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
Bi-amping with your AVR is a waste of time with absolutely no benefits whatsoever. The only way to get more power to your 12s or 9s is to buy a separate amp.

I will elaborate a little.

Assuming you are running in stereo mode, your three bass drivers are taking 90% of your power. That leaves the mids and tweeters to draw the rest (about 10 - 15W). With two channels driven (the way most AVRs are rated) you are getting almost all of the 145W to the speakers.

Now switch to bi-amp mode. You are now using four channels. If your bass drivers are eating 90% of your power, you are lowering the signal to both speakers by asking the AVR power supply to feed all four channels (the internal power supply has a limited current throughput). At reference (or near reference) your bass drivers are still only getting about 120 - 130W. About the same as when the system was running two channels. The tweeters and mids will never draw much power. They will, however, start to distort as the AVR amplifier section starts to clip, which WILL happen at reference with power hungry speakers like the 12s and 9s.

To pressurize a medium to large room with these speakers, you will need to get near reference. That is not feasible with 130W of power. You will get loud, but the power and control will start to fade at the top end. You will have massive distortion as the amps are driven into clipping during hard bass lines (especially in movies and modern bass boosted music).

Now let's pretend that we say, "Well I don't listen that loud". Then the whole argument is moot and the speakers will never draw enough power to drive the AVR amp to clipping. Thus negating the need for more power through (passive) bi-amping or an external amp.

I can tell you that in movies with good bass hits, the LEDs on my XPA-2 300WPC amp jumps like a frog in a hot skillet during those hard notes at around -15dB (not even reference level) in a 4300 cu ft room that is not sealed. My speakers are also crossed over at 80 Hz with two power subs performing the heavy bass work.

Now we must visit the thought of having our speakers crossed over at 80 Hz or higher and using a decent subwoofer to do the heavy lifting. This takes a lot of the load off of the AVR amp section(s). Giving you more power to drive the mids and trebles.

If you are running almost any AVR in 5.1 or higher surround mode, your power to each channel will diminish with each added channel. One may have a 145 WPC AVR (2-channels driven), but those figures drop significantly with each added channel. With 5.1, you may only have 80 - 125WPC. With 7.1 or 9.1... well, you have to do the math.

There are literally hundreds of articles on passive bi-amping. They call it "fools" bi-amping for a reason, and before you judge me as a smug know-it-all, I too refused to believe this and ran my system in bi-amp before I could afford an amp. After purchasing an amp, I revisited the bi-amp theory and testing it out. I had no benefit when I ran bi-amped. When I ran with the dedicated amp, however, I was blown away at the performance increase on the high end.

Good luck and good listening my friend.


Ok so if I get the 12's I need an amp. So if I get let say the Emotiva XPA-200 it has 150 wpc. Would 150 watts be enough to power the mains only? If so does that mean I could get a smaller receiver to power the other 5 speakers plus sub? I have never used an amp before. I am still learning
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post #40390 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 09:04 PM
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Ok so if I get the 12's I need an amp. So if I get let say the Emotiva XPA-200 it has 150 wpc. Would 150 watts be enough to power the mains only? If so does that mean I could get a smaller receiver to power the other 5 speakers plus sub? I have never used an amp before. I am still learning

If you have a center channel, I recommend you go with the XPA3 to power your 3 main front speakers and let the AVR do the rest.

Make sure to call Emotiva and ask about B-stock! Same warranty but cheaper to buy.

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #40391 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 09:16 PM
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If you have a center channel, I recommend you go with the XPA3 to power your 3 main front speakers and let the AVR do the rest.

Make sure to call Emotiva and ask about B-stock! Same warranty but cheaper to buy.


Ok, if I do get the XPA3 how many watts do I need the main receiver to have to power the 4 surrounds? Could I get by with something like the Yamaha RX-V577 ?
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post #40392 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 09:46 PM
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Ok, if I do get the XPA3 how many watts do I need the main receiver to have to power the 4 surrounds? Could I get by with something like the Yamaha RX-V577 ?

Surrounds you are OK with 40 watts, it is the 3 big guys upfront that matter the most and the sub....in most cases.

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #40393 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 09:48 PM
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Ok, if I do get the XPA3 how many watts do I need the main receiver to have to power the 4 surrounds? Could I get by with something like the Yamaha RX-V577 ?
I don't think that has Proust.
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post #40394 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 09:50 PM
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I don't think that has Proust.

he meant pre out for external amps.

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #40395 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 10:01 PM
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Ok, if I do get the XPA3 how many watts do I need the main receiver to have to power the 4 surrounds? Could I get by with something like the Yamaha RX-V577 ?

It does says AV Out but I am not sure if it is a Pre Out, best to take a look at its manual to confirm.

Who needs 4K?... just go see your optometrist.
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post #40396 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 11:03 PM
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Ok so if I get the 12's I need an amp. So if I get let say the Emotiva XPA-200 it has 150 wpc. Would 150 watts be enough to power the mains only? If so does that mean I could get a smaller receiver to power the other 5 speakers plus sub? I have never used an amp before. I am still learning
The XPA-200 will give you a true 150WPC with some overhead. It will certainly be better than the AVR. The dedicated amp will also allow the AVR to sufficiently drive the center and surrounds.

The consensus with almost everyone around here is that the 12s and 9s need about 250WPC or more for the sweet spot. This will allow reference level playback with movies and music without clipping. Even my 300WPC XPA-2 can clip slightly during some movies at reference. I cannot bear to listen to movies at reference though. It is painful. The SPL is way too high for comfort.
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Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Dual PSA XV-15se Subwoofers - Epson 5030UB Projector - Monoprice Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...
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post #40397 of 40406 Old 04-16-2015, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Nightraven View Post
Ok, if I do get the XPA3 how many watts do I need the main receiver to have to power the 4 surrounds? Could I get by with something like the Yamaha RX-V577 ?
You would have to jump to 2 levels up to the RX-V777 but for that money you could get the Denon X4000
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post #40398 of 40406 Old 04-17-2015, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
the LEDs on my XPA-2 300WPC amp jumps like a frog in a hot skillet.
Yep!!! I know exactly what that looks like, them frogs can jump pretty high

Spinning the rear tire at 150mph while at 3/4 lean angle will put wrinkles in your seat


Set up:
Integra 70.4--Oppo 103--LG50"Plasma--Emotiva: XPA-3, XPA-2 x 2--PolkAudio: RTiA9 x 4--CSiA6--FXiA6 x 4--Epik: Empire x 2--XBOX 360--Furez 10awg homemade cables
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post #40399 of 40406 Old 04-17-2015, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
The XPA-200 will give you a true 150WPC with some overhead. It will certainly be better than the AVR. The dedicated amp will also allow the AVR to sufficiently drive the center and surrounds. The consensus with almost everyone around here is that the 12s and 9s need about 250WPC or more...
... and online/magazine reviews as well, though what I read was simply "200wpc or more". Using an XPA-5 - with 200 true wpc - driving a pair of A9's along with the A6 center and two surrounds has worked "adequately". It works especially well when listening to 2CH music on the A9's. For HT, I eventually decided to upgrade the A9 mains to a XPA2 (300wpc) and dedicate the XPA5 to driving just the center and all four surrounds.

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Originally Posted by laserjock II View Post
You would have to jump to 2 levels up to the RX-V777 but for that money you could get the Denon X4000
I was convinced I wanted the X4000 for the enhanced bass management and had a refurb in my cart at A4L when the website bot notified me that I could get a NEW 4520 for just a couple hundred bucks more. Well, that's what I ended up doing. It's still in the box though. I'm hoping to get all this upgraded gear up and running in our new place after we move, maybe next year.
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Polk RtiA9's, Denon 4520ci & Emo XPA-5 amp, CsiA6, RtiA7 surrounds, FxiA6 rears, twin Klipsch Synergy Sub-12's, TV room: Rti6's & Rti4's, Csi3, Klipsch SW-450... Bedroom: Lsi9's on an Onkyo TX-8050
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post #40400 of 40406 Old 04-17-2015, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by RobLee View Post
... and online/magazine reviews as well, though what I read was simply "200wpc or more". Using an XPA-5 - with 200 true wpc - driving a pair of A9's along with the A6 center and two surrounds has worked "adequately". It works especially well when listening to 2CH music on the A9's. For HT, I eventually decided to upgrade the A9 mains to a XPA2 (300wpc) and dedicate the XPA5 to driving just the center and all four surrounds.



I was convinced I wanted the X4000 for the enhanced bass management and had a refurb in my cart at A4L when the website bot notified me that I could get a NEW 4520 for just a couple hundred bucks more. Well, that's what I ended up doing. It's still in the box though. I'm hoping to get all this upgraded gear up and running in our new place after we move, maybe next year.
Yep, I got in on the new 4520 when BB was selling them for that price as well.

I have an Energy front 3 and although the 4520 runs them fairly effortlessly, I got a B&K Reference 7520 Series 2 amp that I'll eventually incorporate into the system.
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post #40401 of 40406 Old 04-19-2015, 02:42 PM
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I need a opinion on my speaker setup. I have a Yamaha RX-V377 receiver and after I ran the YAPO it placed my front, center, and surrounds on large and my crossover at 60. I have monitor 40's as my fronts, csi3 as my center and rc65i inwall speakers for surrounds. my living room is about 15X18ft which opens into the dining room, and vaulted ceilings in the living room. I also have the Dayton 1200 as my sub. just curious as to why these changes were made. i originally had my speakers set as small and the crossover set at 80. thanks a lot for any input!

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post #40402 of 40406 Old 04-19-2015, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by riley08 View Post
I need a opinion on my speaker setup. I have a Yamaha RX-V377 receiver and after I ran the YPAQ it placed my front, center, and surrounds on large and my crossover at 60. I have monitor 40's as my fronts, csi3 as my center and rc65i inwall speakers for surrounds. my living room is about 15X18ft which opens into the dining room, and vaulted ceilings in the living room. I also have the Dayton 1200 as my sub. just curious as to why these changes were made. i originally had my speakers set as small and the crossover set at 80. thanks a lot for any input!
YAPO sets speakers as large if it gets enough responses at 60hz best to set them to small and the cross over at 80
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post #40403 of 40406 Old 04-19-2015, 03:03 PM
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thanks for the reply. i always like to post my questions in the polk forums because i'm a polk fan. so would i go in manualy make those changes and leave everything else the same?
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post #40404 of 40406 Old 04-19-2015, 03:43 PM
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thanks for the reply. i always like to post my questions in the polk forums because i'm a polk fan. so would i go in manualy make those changes and leave everything else the same?
yes that's what I always have to do with mine.
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post #40405 of 40406 Unread Today, 11:04 AM
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Hello again guys! My system is up and running and sounding great, and has been for a month or so now.

My wife had a question about us possibly getting front towers, and I didn't know (and google didn't really help much) the answer:

Is our room too small for tower speakers? I just automatically said no, but I didn't have any sources. Our room is ~2300 cu.ft, and we would be sitting around 9' from the fronts.

I'd be getting RTi A7s.
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post #40406 of 40406 Unread Today, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MrGuru View Post
Hello again guys! My system is up and running and sounding great, and has been for a month or so now.

My wife had a question about us possibly getting front towers, and I didn't know (and google didn't really help much) the answer:

Is our room too small for tower speakers? I just automatically said no, but I didn't have any sources. Our room is ~2300 cu.ft, and we would be sitting around 9' from the fronts.

I'd be getting RTi A7s.
It's nice to have the floor standers off the wall 10 or more inches, but If you have room for the cabinets to fit then there is no room that is too small for towers.
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