Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 1425 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #42721 of 42749 Old 08-12-2016, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Yes, that forum member is part of the design team for Polk. He was at CEDIA last year, and will be again for any of you planning on attending.

Like I've long suggested I believe these are the new line of speakers made to update the RTi A line. The pricing suggests that. Or it might just be a new iteration that allows for top mounted ATMOS speakers as Polk has been slowing getting into that game as it seems the demand is there or at least the content is more readily available.

What I see is that they appear to be trying to add either a passive or powered driver to the bottom (hence the powerport). Think of them using the same type of driver in the LSiM's but downfiring. It would allow them to get more driver square footage, with possible a deeper frequency response OR more dedicated midbass drivers.
oh, thanks for the info... The price indeed speaks about Rti-A redesign, if it's the price of the biggest speaker in the line... And if it's the case, it would still make me reconsider a speaker change. I LOVE the Rti-A line, and if the tweeter could be slightly less bright, color me interested... I fact, if the new tweeter could be as unfatiguing as the LsiM ring tweeter, as much as good at instrument separation, but less dark, I think I could fall in love.
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post #42722 of 42749 Old 08-12-2016, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Aarghon View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Yes, that forum member is part of the design team for Polk. He was at CEDIA last year, and will be again for any of you planning on attending.

Like I've long suggested I believe these are the new line of speakers made to update the RTi A line. The pricing suggests that. Or it might just be a new iteration that allows for top mounted ATMOS speakers as Polk has been slowing getting into that game as it seems the demand is there or at least the content is more readily available.

What I see is that they appear to be trying to add either a passive or powered driver to the bottom (hence the powerport). Think of them using the same type of driver in the LSiM's but downfiring. It would allow them to get more driver square footage, with possible a deeper frequency response OR more dedicated midbass drivers.
oh, thanks for the info... The price indeed speaks about Rti-A redesign, if it's the price of the biggest speaker in the line... And if it's the case, it would still make me reconsider a speaker change. I LOVE the Rti-A line, and if the tweeter could be slightly less bright, color me interested... I fact, if the new tweeter could be as unfatiguing as the LsiM ring tweeter, as much as good at instrument separation, but less dark, I think I could fall in love.
Well if you got your LSi 703 or 705s (forget which you have think it's 703s) and center during the friends and family sale you can prob sell em for about what you paid or a little less and not get beat up TOO bad....

But I'd wait till reviews come out....

I'm trying to work some magic and see if I can get a demo for them going on (sorry to say they prob won't head up to Canada though ), so I can get an ear on em with some other Polk guys I know local.
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post #42723 of 42749 Old 08-12-2016, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Aarghon View Post
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Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Yes, that forum member is part of the design team for Polk. He was at CEDIA last year, and will be again for any of you planning on attending.

Like I've long suggested I believe these are the new line of speakers made to update the RTi A line. The pricing suggests that. Or it might just be a new iteration that allows for top mounted ATMOS speakers as Polk has been slowing getting into that game as it seems the demand is there or at least the content is more readily available.

What I see is that they appear to be trying to add either a passive or powered driver to the bottom (hence the powerport). Think of them using the same type of driver in the LSiM's but downfiring. It would allow them to get more driver square footage, with possible a deeper frequency response OR more dedicated midbass drivers.
oh, thanks for the info... The price indeed speaks about Rti-A redesign, if it's the price of the biggest speaker in the line... And if it's the case, it would still make me reconsider a speaker change. I LOVE the Rti-A line, and if the tweeter could be slightly less bright, color me interested... I fact, if the new tweeter could be as unfatiguing as the LsiM ring tweeter, as much as good at instrument separation, but less dark, I think I could fall in love.
Well if you got your LSi 703 or 705s (forget which you have think it's 703s) and center during the friends and family sale you can prob sell em for about what you paid or a little less and not get beat up TOO bad....

But I'd wait till reviews come out....

I'm trying to work some magic and see if I can get a demo for them going on (sorry to say they prob won't head up to Canada though ), so I can get an ear on em with some other Polk guys I know local.
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post #42724 of 42749 Old 08-12-2016, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
Well if you got your LSi 703 or 705s (forget which you have think it's 703s) and center during the friends and family sale you can prob sell em for about what you paid or a little less and not get beat up TOO bad....

But I'd wait till reviews come out....

I'm trying to work some magic and see if I can get a demo for them going on (sorry to say they prob won't head up to Canada though ), so I can get an ear on em with some other Polk guys I know local.
naw, didn'nt get them at F&F sale, but I think I can still sell them easily at 80% of what I've paid... And since the only banner selling Polk Audio nearby is Bestbuy, with the leftovers of the demise of Futureshop... I might have to go far to hear the new line. Wish I would be in USA in september haha! I will rely on you folks in the thread for first impressions

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post #42725 of 42749 Old 08-12-2016, 07:25 PM
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Like I've long suggested I believe these are the new line of speakers made to update the RTi A line.
If so then I'll be on the lookout for clearance pricing on the A9's. I picked up a single A9 a couple years ago and would like to buy a mate for it. My current Rti12's are adequate but I know the A9's are noticeably better and would like to have A9's all around.

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post #42726 of 42749 Old 08-13-2016, 02:34 AM
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If so then I'll be on the lookout for clearance pricing on the A9's. I picked up a single A9 a couple years ago and would like to buy a mate for it. My current Rti12's are adequate but I know the A9's are noticeably better and would like to have A9's all around.
Same here, i would love to replace my LR's with Rti A9's and relegate my Rti 12's to surround duty. About how low do you think we can realistically get the RtiA9's?

Living Room: Marantz AV7702, (1)Crown XLS1500 & (5)Crown XLS1000. Mains- Rti 12, Center- CSi5, SR- Rti 8, SBR- 75t, Atmos- 620-RT(4), BIC F12, PJ-Benq HT1075, Elite Screen 106",Bluray-LG BP550 & BP440, Fire TV, DSTV HD PVR, Wii U, Darbee DVP-5000s
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post #42727 of 42749 Old 08-13-2016, 04:37 AM
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Same here, i would love to replace my LR's with Rti A9's and relegate my Rti 12's to surround duty. About how low do you think we can realistically get the RtiA9's?
$500 each is the "typical" sale price for the A9's. That's what I paid, but I got the Rti12's for $250 each. That would be great price to see for the A9's!

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post #42728 of 42749 Old 08-13-2016, 05:24 AM
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$500 each is the "typical" sale price for the A9's. That's what I paid, but I got the Rti12's for $250 each. That would be great price to see for the A9's!
Thanks, i also got the Rti12's at $250, but one came damaged. i recently noticed that it vibrates (or at least it think thats what it is) at low frequencies. i've opened tightened it to the cabinet but it still vibrates so don't know what else i can do. Hence why i would really like to get the A9's.

Living Room: Marantz AV7702, (1)Crown XLS1500 & (5)Crown XLS1000. Mains- Rti 12, Center- CSi5, SR- Rti 8, SBR- 75t, Atmos- 620-RT(4), BIC F12, PJ-Benq HT1075, Elite Screen 106",Bluray-LG BP550 & BP440, Fire TV, DSTV HD PVR, Wii U, Darbee DVP-5000s
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post #42729 of 42749 Old 08-13-2016, 05:27 AM
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Should have asked is there anything else i can try to fix the issue?

I'm really not handy but im willing to give it a shot or maybe get someone to fix it.

Living Room: Marantz AV7702, (1)Crown XLS1500 & (5)Crown XLS1000. Mains- Rti 12, Center- CSi5, SR- Rti 8, SBR- 75t, Atmos- 620-RT(4), BIC F12, PJ-Benq HT1075, Elite Screen 106",Bluray-LG BP550 & BP440, Fire TV, DSTV HD PVR, Wii U, Darbee DVP-5000s
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post #42730 of 42749 Old 08-15-2016, 05:29 AM
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Thanks, i also got the Rti12's at $250, but one came damaged. i recently noticed that it vibrates (or at least it think thats what it is) at low frequencies. i've opened tightened it to the cabinet but it still vibrates so don't know what else i can do. Hence why i would really like to get the A9's.
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Should have asked is there anything else i can try to fix the issue?
I'm really not handy but im willing to give it a shot or maybe get someone to fix it.
One of my 12's also arrived damaged. I thought it was just limited to the front plate being chipped but sometimes I hear what I suppose you could call vibration.... it's a buzzing at a certain frequency that appears to come from the lower of the two midrange drivers. I intended to run a frequency sweep sometime. I've had a lot going on recently as we just moved. The 12's are actually a temporary setup anyway. Not sure when I'll get around to working on it. Right now it isn't a priority. Good luck with your issue. A pair of inexpensive A9's would fix both of our problems!

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post #42731 of 42749 Old 08-15-2016, 07:35 AM
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One of my 12's also arrived damaged. I thought it was just limited to the front plate being chipped but sometimes I hear what I suppose you could call vibration.... it's a buzzing at a certain frequency that appears to come from the lower of the two midrange drivers. I intended to run a frequency sweep sometime. I've had a lot going on recently as we just moved. The 12's are actually a temporary setup anyway. Not sure when I'll get around to working on it. Right now it isn't a priority. Good luck with your issue. A pair of inexpensive A9's would fix both of our problems!
Yeap that's it, and because i know its there i always listen for i. i have to add the cost of shipping to Nigeria as well as to the cost of the A9's so i hope we can really get em cheap.

Thanks again for everything.

Living Room: Marantz AV7702, (1)Crown XLS1500 & (5)Crown XLS1000. Mains- Rti 12, Center- CSi5, SR- Rti 8, SBR- 75t, Atmos- 620-RT(4), BIC F12, PJ-Benq HT1075, Elite Screen 106",Bluray-LG BP550 & BP440, Fire TV, DSTV HD PVR, Wii U, Darbee DVP-5000s
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post #42732 of 42749 Old 08-15-2016, 07:03 PM
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Me being me is want all my fronts to be timbre matched so I'd try to get the speakers in the same line as my fronts. In my case LSi 7s


I was thinking the same and was going to get B&W 686s for that reason but I thought for the amount of sound info that goes to the Front Heights, it might be a waste. The T15s sound good in that position so far.
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post #42733 of 42749 Old 08-17-2016, 01:23 PM
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I was thinking the same and was going to get B&W 686s for that reason but I thought for the amount of sound info that goes to the Front Heights, it might be a waste. The T15s sound good in that position so far.
Glad to hear it.
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post #42734 of 42749 Old 08-17-2016, 08:29 PM
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Yeap that's it, and because i know its there i always listen for it.
Yup, I know exactly how that is!

I spoke with Polk service about replacing the driver. I have a scrap Csi3 that uses the same size driver as the buzzy one, so I asked if I could use that as a replacement but he said they are different impedance. I asked if they would send me a replacement under warranty and he said he would, but it never showed up. Because I have so much other stuff going on I never followed up on it, but at least I know I can follow that avenue once I know exactly what the problem is. For now it seems to be sounding okay... but I haven't run the sweep yet to be sure where the problem truly is so I can explain it when I call them back. It seems nothing is ever simple.

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post #42735 of 42749 Old 08-18-2016, 01:49 AM
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Thanks, at least i now know i can do something about it. Is it easy to swap out a driver?

When i was tightening the screws on one of the driver enclosures i brought it out, it had two wires connected to it, but i didn't see any screws or how to detach it.

I didnt want to mess it any further.

Living Room: Marantz AV7702, (1)Crown XLS1500 & (5)Crown XLS1000. Mains- Rti 12, Center- CSi5, SR- Rti 8, SBR- 75t, Atmos- 620-RT(4), BIC F12, PJ-Benq HT1075, Elite Screen 106",Bluray-LG BP550 & BP440, Fire TV, DSTV HD PVR, Wii U, Darbee DVP-5000s
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post #42736 of 42749 Old 08-18-2016, 08:02 AM
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Any one know if there is a universal convention on black and red terminals? I mean if you connect DC positive to red and neg to black, will the speaker cone always go "out" (or "in"--don't know which). I occasionally get an Audssey note-out of phase, and usually ignore as I know all the reds are to red and blacks are to black. But, if there are different brands of speakers in the mix, can I rely on this?

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post #42737 of 42749 Old 08-18-2016, 08:37 AM
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Any one know if there is a universal convention on black and red terminals? I mean if you connect DC positive to red and neg to black, will the speaker cone always go "out" (or "in"--don't know which). I occasionally get an Audssey note-out of phase, and usually ignore as I know all the reds are to red and blacks are to black. But, if there are different brands of speakers in the mix, can I rely on this?
Its fairly standard that Red is positive and Black is negative. Changes of the wiring being wrong inside the cabinet should be small, but I think I remember reading about it happening at least once.....
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post #42738 of 42749 Old 08-18-2016, 08:43 AM
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Any one know if there is a universal convention on black and red terminals? I mean if you connect DC positive to red and neg to black, will the speaker cone always go "out" (or "in"--don't know which). I occasionally get an Audssey note-out of phase, and usually ignore as I know all the reds are to red and blacks are to black. But, if there are different brands of speakers in the mix, can I rely on this?
Surprisingly, I've never seen an industry standard (e.g. IEEE) for speaker wires or color codes. They seem to be vendor defined. The most common is black (neg) and red (pos). Wiring them backwards will give you 180 degrees out of phase. I would go with Audyssey if it tells you they are out of phase almost all of the time. The speaker cone rides the audio signal in and out according to the amplitude (strength) and frequency (speed) of the input wave (signal). Having two speakers wired out of phase with each other produces muddy or distorted sound. As long as all speakers are wired in the same polarity (regardless of connector color), the sound will be normal. Opening the speaker cabinet and observing the driver polarity wires is the only way to be sure since the external connectors or crossovers may be wired incorrectly.
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post #42739 of 42749 Old 08-19-2016, 11:12 AM
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...but I think I can still sell them easily at 80% of what I've paid...
LOL, good luck with that!
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post #42740 of 42749 Old 08-19-2016, 11:16 AM
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So no more news or pics of this new speaker?

Last edited by New24K; 08-19-2016 at 01:22 PM.
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post #42741 of 42749 Old 08-19-2016, 01:14 PM
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What stands are recommended for 703s; I am using nice older Sanus wood stands that someone told me aren't rated for 28 lbs
Most wooden speaker stands are not really rated for 30 lb speakers like LSiM 703s. You should look at the ones that can be sand filled.

I use these Dayton Audio SSMB24 24" Speaker Stand Pair Square Steel Base because they are so cheap.





http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...-base--240-750

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-...speaker+stands

If you are willing to spend > $100, you can also consider these...

HiVi Acoustics - HiVi D-Stand (Pair)

Sanus - Foundations Steel Series Bookshelf Speaker Stand (Pair) - Black

Bowers & Wilkins - STAV 24 S2 Speaker Stands (Pair) - Black

Panasonic TC-P55UT50
Pioneer SC-1222-K
Polk Audio LSiM 703/LSiM 706c/RTiA3
JTR Captivator 1400
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post #42742 of 42749 Old 08-19-2016, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by New24K View Post
LOL, good luck with that!
Why is that? I've bought them at discount in futureshop closures... And they were one of the rare dealers in Canada. Now they are more scarce here I canada, are very rarely on sale. And we aren't eligible for the F&F sale up here... And even if someone bought them in the us at the at the F&F sale, with the current exchange rate and custom fees, the deal is destroyed. I often see used LSIM sets go for 700$ USD , had them at 1000$ CAN. I don't see why I couldn't get 800$ CAN for them. Pretty sure I'd put them here for sale at 600$ US and they would be gone fast, too =P

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post #42743 of 42749 Old 08-19-2016, 08:18 PM
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I think it was more just about the nature of selling used equipment. Typically you're lucky to get 25% of the street price.

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post #42744 of 42749 Old 08-19-2016, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Aarghon View Post
Why is that? I've bought them at discount in futureshop closures... And they were one of the rare dealers in Canada. Now they are more scarce here I canada, are very rarely on sale. And we aren't eligible for the F&F sale up here... And even if someone bought them in the us at the at the F&F sale, with the current exchange rate and custom fees, the deal is destroyed. I often see used LSIM sets go for 700$ USD , had them at 1000$ CAN. I don't see why I couldn't get 800$ CAN for them. Pretty sure I'd put them here for sale at 600$ US and they would be gone fast, too =P
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Originally Posted by RobLee View Post
I think it was more just about the nature of selling used equipment. Typically you're lucky to get 25% of the street price.
True, but as stated with him in CA its a bit different. Here in the US its easy to get ahold of them used on Polks ebay site, or wait for a F&F price to pop up, but none of those are options in CA.

Otherwise here in the US, I'd agree.

PS, anyone thinking about wanting a set of 705's, I know of a pair that could come up for sale shortly. They aint mine, but they are in the Chicago area should you be looking.......
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post #42745 of 42749 Old 08-19-2016, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EndersShadow View Post
True, but as stated with him in CA its a bit different. Here in the US its easy to get ahold of them used on Polks ebay site, or wait for a F&F price to pop up, but none of those are options in CA.

Otherwise here in the US, I'd agree.

PS, anyone thinking about wanting a set of 705's, I know of a pair that could come up for sale shortly. They aint mine, but they are in the Chicago area should you be looking.......
Yes Dan, it's very different here... We typically overpay for everything up here ! A new LSIM703 set retails for 1500$ + 15% sales tax here... so 1725$, yikes

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post #42746 of 42749 Old 08-21-2016, 07:12 PM
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Anyone running rti12s or RTiA9 on a marantz 7008?

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post #42747 of 42749 Unread Yesterday, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by AlphaPie View Post
Anyone running rti12s or RTiA9 on a marantz 7008?
I'm not, but I did try mt RTI-A1s on the Marantz and they did sound good. Tamed a little by the soft Marantz sound, which is a good thing since they are a little bright.

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post #42748 of 42749 Unread Today, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Aarghon View Post
I'm not, but I did try mt RTI-A1s on the Marantz and they did sound good. Tamed a little by the soft Marantz sound, which is a good thing since they are a little bright.
I'm curious about having enough power out of the 7008 to satisfy them.

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post #42749 of 42749 Unread Today, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaPie View Post
I'm curious about having enough power out of the 7008 to satisfy them.
Shouldn't be a problem at all. 125W is more than enough at moderate listening levels (say -20dB). When watching movies with 5.1, however, you may experience some clipping on intense scenes with low bass without a subwoofer.

If you are crossing them at 80 Hz or above with a good sub, you should be fine. If you listen anywhere near reference, you'll need an amp with 250W - 300W to power them full range.

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