Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 1459 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #43741 of 43776 Old 06-04-2017, 11:38 PM
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I have to say i am having a really good time with the LSIM series so clear and focused and man what a sound stage and imaging is outstanding. This series at 50 percent off is an absolute steal i feel like the lady in the IKEA commercial START THE CAR! Music is perfect across all genres and movies are so clear and dynamic. Anyways i am going to sell my RTIA series set up and the mighty LSIM'S are here to stay.
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post #43742 of 43776 Old 06-05-2017, 03:58 AM
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Hello everyone. Long time no talk; and hope all is well. I haven't been on in a few weeks do to condo and family issues. So I figured I'd give you all an update on my living room/theatre room. After a few issues, I finally closed on the condo this past Friday. I move in, in 2 weeks.

I'm ready to start buying everything I need. And coincidentally; Crutchfield just reduced the price on all their Signature series speakers. I will definitely keep you all updated. As I will also need some more help with the FXi A6 placement (still not sure how far up/down or inward/outward in relation to my couch for best movie theatre sound) and maybe other random questions. Thanks. Talk you all soon. Will post pics.
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post #43743 of 43776 Old 06-05-2017, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Titan319 View Post
Anytime you have a rear port in a speaker it needs more room from the walls to avoid reflection true with almost any speaker really but more so with rear ported. Do you have Audyssey if so run that to clean up the low end that should help considerably.
Yes, this has been mentioned to me multiple times now (and I already knew that before-hand), and I've commented about that in a round-about way by commenting that the 705s are more lenient to placement. Again, I'm not talking about a huge imbalance here, but I am talking about a noticeable difference in the low end... assuming you have speakers to compare it with that will reveal the difference. Most of the time you won't be able to notice it. I tend to jump between a pair of near field monitors and the 703s (now 705s), the difference is noticeable if I listen to the two of them in a short timespan. And the 705s do have a noticeable difference in the low end to the 703. I'd need to do some real testing to compare them on equal footing, but it's mostly that the 705s can't be placed in the wide open in my space, while the 703s are a lot easier to give some room to.

For mixed listening (or more movie vs music) where you need bookshelves, I'd recommend the 703s at refurb/sale pricing over and over again. But I still prefer the 705s over them if you have the space and money for them.

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post #43744 of 43776 Old 06-05-2017, 09:45 AM
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Yes, this has been mentioned to me multiple times now (and I already knew that before-hand), and I've commented about that in a round-about way by commenting that the 705s are more lenient to placement. Again, I'm not talking about a huge imbalance here, but I am talking about a noticeable difference in the low end... assuming you have speakers to compare it with that will reveal the difference. Most of the time you won't be able to notice it. I tend to jump between a pair of near field monitors and the 703s (now 705s), the difference is noticeable if I listen to the two of them in a short timespan. And the 705s do have a noticeable difference in the low end to the 703. I'd need to do some real testing to compare them on equal footing, but it's mostly that the 705s can't be placed in the wide open in my space, while the 703s are a lot easier to give some room to.

For mixed listening (or more movie vs music) where you need bookshelves, I'd recommend the 703s at refurb/sale pricing over and over again. But I still prefer the 705s over them if you have the space and money for them.
Bookshelf speakers always have more flexibility in terms of placement vs a tower. With that said you can add some room treatment directly behind the speakers that will do wonders for either the 705 or the 703. How big is your room do you have any pictures i could give you some advise.
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post #43745 of 43776 Old 06-08-2017, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Titan319 View Post
Bookshelf speakers always have more flexibility in terms of placement vs a tower. With that said you can add some room treatment directly behind the speakers that will do wonders for either the 705 or the 703. How big is your room do you have any pictures i could give you some advise.
I’m not sure what non-existent problem I have you are trying to solve here?

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post #43746 of 43776 Old 06-08-2017, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Kolenka View Post
I’m not sure what non-existent problem I have you are trying to solve here?
Did you run Audyssey with both sets of speakers in the positions? I would thing there would be more differences between the 705 vs the 703 giving that the 705 has a dedicated midrange and mid bass driver along with separate cabinets for each driver.
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post #43747 of 43776 Old 06-09-2017, 11:28 AM
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I just picked up a pair Rti A9's for $399.99 a speaker(Canadian) @best buy. I'll be running them through a Denon x3300. Will I have any issues with that?

I don't have any others at the moment
So it will be a 2.0 setup for now.
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post #43748 of 43776 Old 06-09-2017, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Merrill View Post
I just picked up a pair Rti A9's for $399.99 a speaker(Canadian) @best buy. I'll be running them through a Denon x3300. Will I have any issues with that?

I don't have any others at the moment
So it will be a 2.0 setup for now.
You need a separate amp to run the A9's they are very power hungry you are going to need a seperate amp and feed them at least 300 watts rms. I would never run any of the RTIA series on a receiver. I have the A7's which is smaller than the A9 and it took a power amp to open them up and sound the best.
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post #43749 of 43776 Old 06-09-2017, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Merrill View Post
I just picked up a pair Rti A9's for $399.99 a speaker(Canadian) @best buy. I'll be running them through a Denon x3300. Will I have any issues with that?

I don't have any others at the moment
So it will be a 2.0 setup for now.
It depends on the size of your room and how loud you like to play. The RTiA9's are power-hungry, and you would be better off using them with an external amplifier with at least 200W per channel and/or a separate powered subwoofer. But for now, you can experiment with what you have and see how well it fits the bill for you until you can expand your system.

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You need a separate amp to run the A9's they are very power hungry you are going to need a seperate amp and feed them at least 300 watts rms. I would never run any of the RTIA series on a receiver. I have the A7's which is smaller than the A9 and it took a power amp to open them up and sound the best.
That's a bit exaggerated, don't you think? It's an extremely rare 8-Ohm speaker that needs at least 300W unless you're trying to fill a stadium with sound. And as far as the RTiA7 is concerned, mine can shake the foundations of my home without distortion powered by my 140W AVR.

I agree with you that more power can result in improved performance, but there's no need to scare the newbie.

Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D UHD LCD TV w/FALD; Oppo UDP-203; Sony BDP-S5200 (multi-region); Denon AVR-X5200W (Video: Dolby Atmos/DSU 7.1.4; Music: DTS Neo:X 11.1); Dayton Audio MA1260 12-Channel Amplifier (60wpc); Polk Audio RTiA7 (F/LR), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (FW), OWM5 (Sr, SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, TR); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
Bedroom: Sony XBR-55HX929 LCD HDTV w/FALD, DarbeeVision DVP 5000S, Yamaha R-N402 Network Receiver, Polk Audio LSiM703

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post #43750 of 43776 Old 06-10-2017, 06:29 AM
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LSiM owners, what speakers do you use for overhead speakers in a Dolby Atmos setup?
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post #43751 of 43776 Old 06-10-2017, 07:55 AM
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LSiM owners, what speakers do you use for overhead speakers in a Dolby Atmos setup?
https://www.polkaudio.com/products/900-ls

All of the in-wall/in-ceiling LS series speakers are timbre matched to the LSiM series speakers.
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Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Dual PSA XV-15se Subwoofers - Epson 5030UB Projector - Monoprice Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - - XBox One S - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...
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post #43752 of 43776 Old 06-10-2017, 12:30 PM
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I have to say i am having a really good time with the LSIM series so clear and focused and man what a sound stage and imaging is outstanding. This series at 50 percent off is an absolute steal i feel like the lady in the IKEA commercial START THE CAR! Music is perfect across all genres and movies are so clear and dynamic. Anyways i am going to sell my RTIA series set up and the mighty LSIM'S are here to stay.
When that sale comes around again, I will look at their surround speakers. Btw, I am enjoying the 707s.
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HT Configuration: 7.2.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s l Polk LSiM 706c l Polk FXi-30 (x4) l Infinity ERS-610 (x4)-Atmos l SVS PB-2000 l Polk PSW 505 (temp) l Monolith 7 amp l Behringer A500 (2x) l Behringer FBQ3102 EQ l Oppo BD-93 l Denon CD player l Denon DP-300F TT l Cassette Deck.

Subwoofer Trim and Audyssey EQ setup guide
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post #43753 of 43776 Old 06-10-2017, 12:32 PM
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I just upgraded from the Rtia series to the LSIM series. On the 706C i am getting a slight break up on voices i am not sure if this is due to the 3 way design or the tweeter is defective. The tweeter is not blown just has a little break up i tested the voice on the 705s and no break up any thoughts or owners of the 706c can chime in that would be great!

Also i should mention that when running Audyssey it says all my speakers are out of phase and this never happened with the RTI series.
No problem with the 706. Did the replacement solve the problem? I also got the out of phase message for the 706 and 707s. I just pushed forward knowing they were not out of phase.

HT Configuration: 7.2.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s l Polk LSiM 706c l Polk FXi-30 (x4) l Infinity ERS-610 (x4)-Atmos l SVS PB-2000 l Polk PSW 505 (temp) l Monolith 7 amp l Behringer A500 (2x) l Behringer FBQ3102 EQ l Oppo BD-93 l Denon CD player l Denon DP-300F TT l Cassette Deck.

Subwoofer Trim and Audyssey EQ setup guide

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post #43754 of 43776 Old 06-10-2017, 02:01 PM
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https://www.polkaudio.com/products/900-ls

All of the in-wall/in-ceiling LS series speakers are timbre matched to the LSiM series speakers.
Thanks for the suggestion. I live in an apartment. I don't think they will let me cut holes on the ceiling to install in-ceiling overhead speakers. Are there other options?
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post #43755 of 43776 Old 06-10-2017, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post
It depends on the size of your room and how loud you like to play. The RTiA9's are power-hungry, and you would be better off using them with an external amplifier with at least 200W per channel and/or a separate powered subwoofer. But for now, you can experiment with what you have and see how well it fits the bill for you until you can expand your system.



That's a bit exaggerated, don't you think? It's an extremely rare 8-Ohm speaker that needs at least 300W unless you're trying to fill a stadium with sound. And as far as the RTiA7 is concerned, mine can shake the foundations of my home without distortion powered by my 140W AVR.

I agree with you that more power can result in improved performance, but there's no need to scare the newbie.
Chi i had many powerful receivers up in the 3000 dollar range and none can compete with a separate power amp. In my opinion the RTIA series and LSIM series need a power amp. My Rtia 7 really opened up with 200 watts rms even in a small room crossed over to a sub. Receivers are not built like they use to be and a lot of compromises are made to the power supply and capacitors and the 4 to 3 ohm dips these speakers have make them shrill or lifeless unless the current and power are there to back up these dips and balance out the frequency range. Of course i don't want to scare anyone this is only my view and opinions and experiences on the polk RTIA and LSIM series that i own and evaluated with a receiver and power amps.

http://hometheaterreview.com/polk-rt...kers-reviewed/
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post #43756 of 43776 Old 06-10-2017, 05:57 PM
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No problem with the 706. Did the replacement solve the problem? I also got the out of phase message for the 706 and 707s. I just pushed forward knowing they were not out of phase.
I talked to Polk and they wired the speakers out of phase due to the crossover design there is no issue ignore audyssey or the phase error. By the way my whole LSIM set up says out a phase so no issue at all nothing to worry about. Polk also said to not switch the + or _ to try and correct for the error so i thought i would let you know that as well.

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post #43757 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 06:58 AM
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Chi i had many powerful receivers up in the 3000 dollar range and none can compete with a separate power amp. In my opinion the RTIA series and LSIM series need a power amp. My Rtia 7 really opened up with 200 watts rms even in a small room crossed over to a sub. Receivers are not built like they use to be and a lot of compromises are made to the power supply and capacitors and the 4 to 3 ohm dips these speakers have make them shrill or lifeless unless the current and power are there to back up these dips and balance out the frequency range. Of course i don't want to scare anyone this is only my view and opinions and experiences on the polk RTIA and LSIM series that i own and evaluated with a receiver and power amps.

http://hometheaterreview.com/polk-rt...kers-reviewed/
My issue is with the absolutism of your statement (as highlighted above), which is highly misleading when giving advice to a neophyte (the rest of us understand where you are coming from).

Objectively speaking, as any Polk Audio spokesman would confirm, none of the RTi speakers need a a lot of power to drive them. (Do you really want to maintain that even the bookshelf speakers in this series cannot perform faithfully driven by less than a 200W/PC amplifier?)

As I have already stated, I concur in your opinion that an external amp would be an improvement, but OP should not be led to believe that his RTiA9's will not perform adequately without one unless he is doing critical listening in a large space or at reference volume.

Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D UHD LCD TV w/FALD; Oppo UDP-203; Sony BDP-S5200 (multi-region); Denon AVR-X5200W (Video: Dolby Atmos/DSU 7.1.4; Music: DTS Neo:X 11.1); Dayton Audio MA1260 12-Channel Amplifier (60wpc); Polk Audio RTiA7 (F/LR), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (FW), OWM5 (Sr, SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, TR); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
Bedroom: Sony XBR-55HX929 LCD HDTV w/FALD, DarbeeVision DVP 5000S, Yamaha R-N402 Network Receiver, Polk Audio LSiM703
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post #43758 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 07:07 AM
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Thanks for the suggestion. I live in an apartment. I don't think they will let me cut holes on the ceiling to install in-ceiling overhead speakers. Are there other options?
If you want to stay within the Polk Audio family, I can recommend the OWM5, which are very versatile. They are not an exact timbre-match for the LSiM series but will still serve your purpose. And they are currently available at Polk's eBay store in either white or black for $85 a piece.

However, there are plenty of other options you can consider from other manufacturers. With the sophistication of today's room correction calibration systems, timbre-matching the overhead speakers, while desirable, is not essential.
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Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D UHD LCD TV w/FALD; Oppo UDP-203; Sony BDP-S5200 (multi-region); Denon AVR-X5200W (Video: Dolby Atmos/DSU 7.1.4; Music: DTS Neo:X 11.1); Dayton Audio MA1260 12-Channel Amplifier (60wpc); Polk Audio RTiA7 (F/LR), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (FW), OWM5 (Sr, SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, TR); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
Bedroom: Sony XBR-55HX929 LCD HDTV w/FALD, DarbeeVision DVP 5000S, Yamaha R-N402 Network Receiver, Polk Audio LSiM703
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post #43759 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 07:49 AM
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My issue is with the absolutism of your statement (as highlighted above), which is highly misleading when giving advice to a neophyte (the rest of us understand where you are coming from).

Objectively speaking, as any Polk Audio spokesman would confirm, none of the RTi speakers need a a lot of power to drive them. (Do you really want to maintain that even the bookshelf speakers in this series cannot perform faithfully driven by less than a 200W/PC amplifier?)

As I have already stated, I concur in your opinion that an external amp would be an improvement, but OP should not be led to believe that his RTiA9's will not perform adequately without one unless he is doing critical listening in a large space or at reference volume.
I disagree w/ your statement about needing a large amp for only large spaces and reference volume. I have neither a large space (appr. 3100 cubic ft) and I don't listen at reference volume. I am putting about 275/channel on my csia6 and both rtia9 and the dynamics and impact that i get, that i can't get off of 100watts, is nothing short of eyeopening. I am running this in a sealed dedicated theater room and i would agree that you need at least 200 watts to take full advantage of the rtia9. If the OP only has 120 watts / channel to work with, than maybe he can back down to the rtia3 or RTIA5, alot less drivers to account for w/ the minimal power.

Can you drive the RTIA9 with a 100 watts, sure you can, but what taxes and damages a speaker is distortion and that is where he can get in trouble w/ over driving them with a receiver and not know it.

Some more insight on the matter:
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussio...amp-for-rti-a9
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post #43760 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 09:07 AM
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I disagree w/ your statement about needing a large amp for only large spaces and reference volume. I have neither a large space (appr. 3100 cubic ft) and I don't listen at reference volume. I am putting about 275/channel on my csia6 and both rtia9 and the dynamics and impact that i get, that i can't get off of 100watts, is nothing short of eyeopening. I am running this in a sealed dedicated theater room and i would agree that you need at least 200 watts to take full advantage of the rtia9. If the OP only has 120 watts / channel to work with, than maybe he can back down to the rtia3 or RTIA5, alot less drivers to account for w/ the minimal power.

Can you drive the RTIA9 with a 100 watts, sure you can, but what taxes and damages a speaker is distortion and that is where he can get in trouble w/ over driving them with a receiver and not know it.

Some more insight on the matter:
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussio...amp-for-rti-a9
Perhaps it's just a matter of semantics, but my point is that OP should not be led to believe that he can not operate the RTiA9's with his current AVR. And I did caveat my statement by pointing out that more wattage and/or a powered subwoofer would be an improvement. But there is a significant difference in the specifications for operating HT speakers between power requirement and enhancement.

As you yourself concur above, postulating that the entire LSiM and RTi lines need at least 200W/PC is grossly misleading. And to say that even the power-hungry RTiA9 can not be operated with anything less than a 300W/PM amp (which is what I initially took issue with) is overstatement at best and a disservice to OP.

Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D UHD LCD TV w/FALD; Oppo UDP-203; Sony BDP-S5200 (multi-region); Denon AVR-X5200W (Video: Dolby Atmos/DSU 7.1.4; Music: DTS Neo:X 11.1); Dayton Audio MA1260 12-Channel Amplifier (60wpc); Polk Audio RTiA7 (F/LR), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (FW), OWM5 (Sr, SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, TR); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
Bedroom: Sony XBR-55HX929 LCD HDTV w/FALD, DarbeeVision DVP 5000S, Yamaha R-N402 Network Receiver, Polk Audio LSiM703
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post #43761 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 11:32 AM
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Perhaps it's just a matter of semantics, but my point is that OP should not be led to believe that he can not operate the RTiA9's with his current AVR. And I did caveat my statement by pointing out that more wattage and/or a powered subwoofer would be an improvement. But there is a significant difference in the specifications for operating HT speakers between power requirement and enhancement.

As you yourself concur above, postulating that the entire LSiM and RTi lines need at least 200W/PC is grossly misleading. And to say that even the power-hungry RTiA9 can not be operated with anything less than a 300W/PM amp (which is what I initially took issue with) is overstatement at best and a disservice to OP.
Where did i ever say you need at least 300. I said 200/channel minimum. And i didn't say entire RTI line, I recommended to step down to the RTIa3 or RTIa5 if he was running receiver wattage, please go back and read what i wrote.
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post #43762 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post
Perhaps it's just a matter of semantics, but my point is that OP should not be led to believe that he can not operate the RTiA9's with his current AVR. And I did caveat my statement by pointing out that more wattage and/or a powered subwoofer would be an improvement. But there is a significant difference in the specifications for operating HT speakers between power requirement and enhancement.

As you yourself concur above, postulating that the entire LSiM and RTi lines need at least 200W/PC is grossly misleading. And to say that even the power-hungry RTiA9 can not be operated with anything less than a 300W/PM amp (which is what I initially took issue with) is overstatement at best and a disservice to OP.
Here, i'll make it easy on you:

I disagree w/ your statement about needing a large amp for only large spaces and reference volume. I have neither a large space (appr. 3100 cubic ft) and I don't listen at reference volume. I am putting about 275/channel on my csia6 and both rtia9 and the dynamics and impact that i get, that i can't get off of 100watts, is nothing short of eyeopening. I am running this in a sealed dedicated theater room and i would agree that you need at least 200 watts to take full advantage of the rtia9. If the OP only has 120 watts / channel to work with, than maybe he can back down to the rtia3 or RTIA5, alot less drivers to account for w/ the minimal power.

Can you drive the RTIA9 with a 100 watts, sure you can, but what taxes and damages a speaker is distortion and that is where he can get in trouble w/ over driving them with a receiver and not know it.
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post #43763 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by LFE Junkie View Post
Where did i ever say you need at least 300. I said 200/channel minimum. And i didn't say entire RTI line, I recommended to step down to the RTIa3 or RTIa5 if he was running receiver wattage, please go back and read what i wrote.
You didn't say that--and I never maintained that you did. You inserted yourself into a discussion that I was having with Titan319 (see here and here), to whom I was clearly referring when I cited the original source of my dissent (see highlighted text below). He was the one making those assertions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post
Perhaps it's just a matter of semantics, but my point is that OP should not be led to believe that he can not operate the RTiA9's with his current AVR. And I did caveat my statement by pointing out that more wattage and/or a powered subwoofer would be an improvement. But there is a significant difference in the specifications for operating HT speakers between power requirement and enhancement.

As you yourself concur above, postulating that the entire LSiM and RTi lines need at least 200W/PC is grossly misleading. And to say that even the power-hungry RTiA9 can not be operated with anything less than a 300W/PM amp (which is what I initially took issue with) is overstatement at best and a disservice to OP.
To be clear (since you seem more than a little confused), I don't fundamentally disagree with anything you have written. In fact, I myself would never want to run a pair of RTiA9's full-range on a 105W/PC AVR; but that is not the same thing as telling a novice who is at the time limited to such a setup that it can't be done. He should try it out in his space with the knowledge that his system resources are limited and that he should plan to expand with a subwoofer and/or outboard amp whenever his situation allows it. That was, and remains, my advice to him. Reasonable minds can disagree, of course.

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post #43764 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chi_guy50 View Post
My issue is with the absolutism of your statement (as highlighted above), which is highly misleading when giving advice to a neophyte (the rest of us understand where you are coming from).

Objectively speaking, as any Polk Audio spokesman would confirm, none of the RTi speakers need a a lot of power to drive them. (Do you really want to maintain that even the bookshelf speakers in this series cannot perform faithfully driven by less than a 200W/PC amplifier?)

As I have already stated, I concur in your opinion that an external amp would be an improvement, but OP should not be led to believe that his RTiA9's will not perform adequately without one unless he is doing critical listening in a large space or at reference volume.
What is the point of buying a speakers you can barely power to its potential. That is like buying a sports are and using 87 octane gas yeah it will work but the performance will be degraded and eventually cause problems. He also said he is running 2.0 so stereo with no sub with 3 7 inch bass drivers and dual midbass/midrange drivers per speaker i can't recommend he run that with a reciever. At this point Chi Guy it seems you have a lot to learn and i am not going to go back in forth about this. You are clearly telling me that i am wrong about my personal experiences and opinions. So i will end this here and say i have 25 years of audio experience and 15 of which involves home theater and car audio installs so i know what i am talking about. I am no longer going to debate this with you of course no offence to you so don't take what i am saying personal.
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post #43765 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFE Junkie View Post
Here, i'll make it easy on you:

I disagree w/ your statement about needing a large amp for only large spaces and reference volume. I have neither a large space (appr. 3100 cubic ft) and I don't listen at reference volume. I am putting about 275/channel on my csia6 and both rtia9 and the dynamics and impact that i get, that i can't get off of 100watts, is nothing short of eyeopening. I am running this in a sealed dedicated theater room and i would agree that you need at least 200 watts to take full advantage of the rtia9. If the OP only has 120 watts / channel to work with, than maybe he can back down to the rtia3 or RTIA5, alot less drivers to account for w/ the minimal power.

Can you drive the RTIA9 with a 100 watts, sure you can, but what taxes and damages a speaker is distortion and that is where he can get in trouble w/ over driving them with a receiver and not know it.
I completely 100% agree with your statement well said!
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post #43766 of 43776 Old 06-11-2017, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Titan319 View Post
What is the point of buying a speakers you can barely power to its potential. That is like buying a sports are and using 87 octane gas yeah it will work but the performance will be degraded and eventually cause problems. He also said he is running 2.0 so stereo with no sub with 3 7 inch bass drivers and dual midbass/midrange drivers per speaker i can't recommend he run that with a reciever. At this point Chi Guy it seems you have a lot to learn and i am not going to go back in forth about this. You are clearly telling me that i am wrong about my personal experiences and opinions. So i will end this here and say i have 25 years of audio experience and 15 of which involves home theater and car audio installs so i know what i am talking about. I am no longer going to debate this with you of course no offence to you so don't take what i am saying personal.
No offense taken, the ad hominem notwithstanding. Knowingly or not, you made a hyperbolic statement that could have given OP the wrong impression and I just tried to put it into perspective.
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post #43767 of 43776 Old 06-13-2017, 01:11 PM
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I have the monitor 60s as funny channels. Am I supposed to run speaker wire to all 4 ports on the rear to my receiver?
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post #43768 of 43776 Old 06-13-2017, 01:49 PM
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Just 2 will work fine
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post #43769 of 43776 Old 06-15-2017, 10:58 AM
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I’m trying to decide between an RTI A7 or A9. I live in a rural area so I can't audition either of them. My current amp (Outlaw 5000) doesn't have enough power to do the A9's justice, so I'll need a new amp (I'm thinking of two Outlaw monoblocks at 200wpc). I currently have RTI A5's as my front speakers, and I'm disappointed with them (muddy midrange).

Any thoughts on the 7’s versus the 9’s? Is 200 WPC enough to drive the 9’s? The wife is concerned that the 9’s are too big for our living space (they are), but I’m concerned that there’s not enough difference between the 5’s and the 7’s, so I’m tempted by the A9’s.


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post #43770 of 43776 Old 06-15-2017, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleSpud View Post
I’m trying to decide between an RTI A7 or A9. I live in a rural area so I can't audition either of them. My current amp (Outlaw 5000) doesn't have enough power to do the A9's justice, so I'll need a new amp (I'm thinking of two Outlaw monoblocks at 200wpc). I currently have RTI A5's as my front speakers, and I'm disappointed with them (muddy midrange).

Any thoughts on the 7’s versus the 9’s? Is 200 WPC enough to drive the 9’s?
Uh oh, here we go again! There are differing opinions on this subject, but the answer will depend a lot on your usage. (Look in the last five days of posts in this thread for a related discussion.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleSpud View Post
The wife is concerned that the 9’s are too big for our living space (they are), but I’m concerned that there’s not enough difference between the 5’s and the 7’s, so I’m tempted by the A9’s.
I also dismissed the RTiA9's in my space primarily due to their physical size. I settled on the A7's as mains and A5's as FW, and I am very pleased with their performance in those roles.

If you remain undecided, you could always order both models from a dealer with a generous return policy and then keep the pair you prefer.

Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D UHD LCD TV w/FALD; Oppo UDP-203; Sony BDP-S5200 (multi-region); Denon AVR-X5200W (Video: Dolby Atmos/DSU 7.1.4; Music: DTS Neo:X 11.1); Dayton Audio MA1260 12-Channel Amplifier (60wpc); Polk Audio RTiA7 (F/LR), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (FW), OWM5 (Sr, SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, TR); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
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