Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 1460 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #43771 of 43777 Old 06-15-2017, 02:49 PM
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[QUOTE=UncleSpud;53663345]I’m trying to decide between an RTI A7 or A9. I live in a rural area so I can't audition either of them. My current amp (Outlaw 5000) doesn't have enough power to do the A9's justice, so I'll need a new amp (I'm thinking of two Outlaw monoblocks at 200wpc). I currently have RTI A5's as my front speakers, and I'm disappointed with them (muddy midrange).

Any thoughts on the 7’s versus the 9’s? Is 200 WPC enough to drive the 9’s? The wife is concerned that the 9’s are too big for our living space (they are), but I’m concerned that there’s not enough difference between the 5’s and the 7’s, so I’m tempted by the A9’s.


I would step up to the LSIM 703 or 705 much better midrange if that is out of your budget get the A7. Overloading your living room with big speakers (A9) that don't have room to breath can cause all kinds of issues. It is better to get the best speakers you can afford first and then add a amp later when funds permit if you feel they need more power.

Last edited by Titan319; 06-15-2017 at 03:00 PM.
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post #43772 of 43777 Old 06-16-2017, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleSpud View Post
I’m trying to decide between an RTI A7 or A9. I live in a rural area so I can't audition either of them. My current amp (Outlaw 5000) doesn't have enough power to do the A9's justice, so I'll need a new amp (I'm thinking of two Outlaw monoblocks at 200wpc). I currently have RTI A5's as my front speakers, and I'm disappointed with them (muddy midrange).

Any thoughts on the 7’s versus the 9’s? Is 200 WPC enough to drive the 9’s? The wife is concerned that the 9’s are too big for our living space (they are), but I’m concerned that there’s not enough difference between the 5’s and the 7’s, so I’m tempted by the A9’s.


TIA
I will use the analogy I use for my photography hobby. Glass (lens) first, camera body second. Glass in your case are the speakers and camera body is the amp. In photography, glass changes every 10+ years, similar to speakers. You can get great results more so with better glass on an average camera than vice versa. Camera bodies come and go, they change very often, they come out with something new very often and whole bunch of companies make them. Basically what I am saying is I'd get the best speaker (glass) now and worry about the amp (camera body) later. You may find yourself changing amps (camera body) more so because they make changes, they come out with something new or you can just want more power, rather than speakers (glass) because you have a great set.

Just One Man's Opinion.
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HT Configuration: 7.2.4 l Panasonic Plasma (65") l Denon X4300H l Polk LSiM 707s l Polk LSiM 706c l Polk FXi-30 (x4) l Infinity ERS-610 (x4)-Atmos l SVS PB-2000 l Polk PSW 505 (temp) l Monolith 7 amp l Behringer A500 (2x) l Behringer FBQ3102 EQ l Oppo BD-93 l Music Hall MMF-9.3 TT l Denon DP-300F TT l Denon CD player l Cassette Deck.

Subwoofer Trim and Audyssey EQ setup guide

Last edited by Methodical_1; 06-16-2017 at 06:45 AM.
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post #43773 of 43777 Old 06-16-2017, 08:39 AM
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There are so many variables when dealing with speakers, subwoofers, AVRs, and amplifiers. The RTiA9 speakers are particularly problematic when trying to make a single capability statement for every receiver, room, and crossover point. You can easily run the RTiA9 speakers with 30 - 50 watts. Now that I've said that, I have to caveat the statement with a dozen other qualifying comments. You will need to listen at lower volume levels, you will need to be crossed over at around 80 Hz, and you will need a quality dedicated subwoofer. PHEW, that's a lot of "needs".

Now let's talk about the average setup. RTiA9s are generally purchased due to their power handling capability and frequency response (even though they only dig down into the bass a little). If you run the RTiA9s at full range, with an AVR rated at 140W, with five channels driven with the AVR, and are watching an intense bass scene on a Blue-ray at near reference levels, you're going to clip the AVR amp and have massive distortion. Why, because the AVR will see dips in it's power output down into the 60W - 80W range depending on the scene, the reactive impedance of the speakers (the natural increases and decreases in speaker impedance through the frequency spectrum). I think we can all agree that 80W is not enough power to drive the RTiA9 in full range at reference volume levels. I don't know too many people that buy speakers with the intention of listening at low SPLs either.

The ideal setup for the RTiA9 would look something like this. First we have the RTiA9s crossed over at 80 Hz driven by a dedicated amp of around 200W - 300W. Even though the speakers can require massive amounts of power, they will generally only use around 30W for average movie watching and music listening. The more powerful amps are for those immediate peaks in power draw due to intense audio tracks. Headroom on the amp is key to a distortion free listening experience at high SPLs. Second we will need to have a dedicated subwoofer to take care of the low end business. Sure the RTiA9s work the low end pretty good, but they cannot produce clean SPL below around 40Hz. We will need to let a good quality powered subwoofer to manage the chest thumping, thus the 80Hz crossover for the A9s (and every other speaker too). This setup should provide hard hitting audio for even the most intensive movie sound tracks.

The budget setup isn't really a factor with A9s. If you have a budget that doesn't allow for a dedicated amp, I'd stay away from the A9s and go with A7s or bookies. You need a subwoofer for any setup to sound GOOD so the smaller speakers can do the same duties as the A9s with an 80Hz crossover. We all know that 75 percent or more of our listening is at -40 main volume and that is perfect for two A9s on an AVR with 100WPC or more. With that being said, the AVR neuters the A9s in the higher volume levels and you will inevitably be dissatisfied with the performance, always wanting to go higher and have more impact. The bottom line is that most AVRs will drive the A9s in moderate SPL at lower volume levels for most applications. We don't want moderate though. That's why I recommend a 200W - 300W dedicated amp for the A9s for any setup along with a good quality powered subwoofer. You'll be glad you made the jump to an amp and subwoofer early on. I am. Good luck and good listening.
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post #43774 of 43777 Old 06-16-2017, 10:24 AM
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^^^^^ That pretty much covers all the bases IMHO.
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Living Room: Sony XBR-65Z9D UHD LCD TV w/FALD; Oppo UDP-203; Sony BDP-S5200 (multi-region); Denon AVR-X5200W (Video: Dolby Atmos/DSU 7.1.4; Music: DTS Neo:X 11.1); Dayton Audio MA1260 12-Channel Amplifier (60wpc); Polk Audio RTiA7 (F/LR), CSiA6 (C), RTiA5 (FW), OWM5 (Sr, SB), 80F/X-RT (FH, TR); SVS SB-2000 (SW)
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post #43775 of 43777 Old 06-16-2017, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Methodical_1 View Post
I will use the analogy I use for my photography hobby. Glass (lens) first, camera body second. Glass in your case are the speakers and camera body is the amp. In photography, glass changes every 10+ years, similar to speakers. You can get great results more so with better glass on an average camera than vice versa. Camera bodies come and go, they change very often, they come out with something new very often and whole bunch of companies make them. Basically what I am saying is I'd get the best speaker (glass) now and worry about the amp (camera body) later. You may find yourself changing amps (camera body) more so because they make changes, they come out with something new or you can just want more power, rather than speakers (glass) because you have a great set.

Just One Man's Opinion.
+1 I shoot a fuji because of their glass

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post #43776 of 43777 Old 06-18-2017, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JayFank View Post
I have the monitor 60s as funny channels. Am I supposed to run speaker wire to all 4 ports on the rear to my receiver?


Not sure what a "funny channel" is, but those are for Bi-Amping. Otherwise, you leave on the 2 shorting bridges.

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post #43777 of 43777 Old Today, 08:44 AM
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I'm thinking of switching my surround RTiA1 for a FXiA4. The A1 has been fantastic the only thing is my room is a bit narrow and i get a bit of hot spotting every now and then from the left surround speaker hence why im thinking of switching to the FXiA4.

Please can anyone enlighten me on the FXiA4 as a surround speaker, as well as in an Atmos setup.

Thank you for taking the time.

Living Room: Pre-Pro- Marantz AV7702, Amps- Crown X1500 & XLS1000(5). Mains- RTi12, Center- CSi5, SR- RTiA1, SRB-RTi8, Atmos- 620RT(4), Sub- RBH I-12 & BIC F12, TV-LG55LB7200, PJ-Benq HT1075, Screen 106", UBD- Samsung K8500, Bluray-LGBP440, Misc- Nvidia Shield, Apple TV, Chromecast, DSTV HD PVR, Wii U, DVP-5000s.
Bedroom:AVR- Marantz SR5009, Mains-Tsx110B, TV-VIZIO E500i-B1, Bluray-LG BP540, Misc- Fire TV, Chromecast Audio, Sennheiser RS170, DSTV HD, QNAP TS-451+.
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