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#1 ·
I just felt it was about time we had an official polk speaker thread , being that according to the speaker brand poll , we have quite a few polkies in here. This might be a good place to discuss tweaks , problems or experiences with your speakers. I for one own a pair of Rti 8s which im very thrilled with and just recently upgraded my center speaker to the almighty csi 5 which has turned out to live up to the hype. The weak link in my set up is my Boston acoustic subwoofer which really isnt that bad but I could do better. The sub is positioned right next to my throne (sweat spot) ,a position I found to sound the best(at this location it also doubles as a poor man's butt kicker
). Anyhoo , it will be nice to hear from other polkies out there....
 
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#3,321 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dixlon /forum/post/13825965


Hello to all,


I posted in the past my wife and are building our new home and that we will have a HT room (dims 20x13.8x10 ) with full carpet. The system driving the speakers are: Emotiva XPA-5 Amp

Outlaw Audio 2200 monoblocks (2)

Onkyo 885 PrePro

SVS PB12-Plus sub

I narrowed my speaker choice between the LSi series (LSi15's Towers, LSiC Center Channel and 4 LSiFX surrounds) and the Axiom (M80 Towers, 2 pair QS8 Surrounds and the VP150 Center Channel)


The room will have a 50 inch Pioneer plasma (5020) and will only use the tv for Blu-ray and HD-DVD watching > 50% use and the other 50% for music.


Do you guys like my 7.1 LSi setup?


Thanks for your advice.


Regards,


Kirk




I love your LSi setup. I auditioned the whole Polk line and the LSi's are definitely a cut above the rest. The highs that the LSi's produce are crystal clear and detailed. I've never heard the Axioms, but I doubt you'll be disappointed with the LSi's (provided you like the sound of Polk speakers). I look at my Monitor 70's and yearn for the day when I can upgrade them to LSi's.


Good luck with your search!
 
#3,322 ·
Ok, so I've been hanging out here a little while, 'cause I've got what I think are these great Polk speakers - RM50T's. Now, I haven't been doing this "better" audio stuff for long, so to my ears, I'm thinking these are the best speakers I've ever owned AND I got what I thought was a pretty good deal ($396 for the pair).


So, anyhow, I get on here and all I see is stuff about RTi's and Monitor series speakers, and I'm feeling a little silly. That, and I've seen a few other posts from others like me who are wondering if anyone else even owns these speakers. I'm actually afraid to hear some of these other speakers, 'cause I'll probably just want to replace mine...


Does anyone have any suggestions for surrounds that would go well with these? I have some RM6751 surrounds and an RM6752 center, but they just don't seem like they're in the same class as my towers.


When I bought these from Tweeter, I told the guy that they sounded pretty good, but I'd like to add a little low end to them... he offered me the Polk PSW303, a never-used floor model, for $80. I figured I couldn't go wrong at that price, but now I'm thinking it's a little lost in my rather bright, 18x25 sunroom. Any thoughts?


I also happen to own an Acoustic Research S112PS sub, which I've been using in a smaller room - about 12x12. Should I use the AR in the bigger room and the Polk in the smaller room? Or, should I buy another sub to use in the bigger room with the RM50T's?
 
#3,323 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by britdiver /forum/post/13825755


Thank God you and OhioMike are on the ball! What would I do without you guys. Man that's a big box. But it's time for a newbie stupid question. I was planning on using the BJC LC-1 RCA cable to hook up my sub (or subs). So what is "via high level inputs"? I looked at the Epik website (not great tell them) looking for a manual to download and look at the hookup diagrams, but couldn't find one. Also I have seen talk of SPL. What exactly is it?


P.S. Ron. Are you in the speaker or home theater business?


Edit: Found something on the High Level Inputs in a HSU manual and firstly they recommend RCA over the HLI. Also I looked in the manual for the 606 and I didn't see any other way to hook up a subwoofer other than RCA.

Most subs have both line level and high level input/outputs. For most the line level is the best way to connect your sub. Just an rca cable from the AVR pre-out to the sub input. However, if you need a really high crossover and your AVR can't offer you a high enough xover point, then the high level connection method is there for you. What you do is connect your L/R fronts speaker wire into the L/R high level inputs on the sub. You then connect speaker wire from your sub high level outputs to your L/R speakers. You set the sub crossover to the appropriate level (in your case 140hz). You set the front speakers to full band or large on the AVR. The sub then handles everything from 140hz down and your fronts get the rest of the signal. It's also recommended when you are running a music first stereo sub setup.


No I'm not in the business. Just know enough to not be too dangerous.


As far as the size of the Epik...yup, it's huge. The AV123 sub I talked about yesterday (MFW15) is another excellent sub that's not quite as big that will probably work fine as well. The Hsu 3.3 is an excellent sub too, but I think it's got the same crossover scheme as the STF 2...90hz tops. They sell a midbass module that will work well in conjunction with it that handles 50hz to 200hz, but it's another $500. You might want to give them a call and ask if there is a work around.


The reason I suggested Epik was because I asked. We were talking about something else. They make great subs that are suited to large rooms for a reasonable price.


SPL is sound pressure level and it corresponds to output which is measured in decibels (dbs).
 
#3,324 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioMike /forum/post/13826784


So..right now I am just going to sell my 30's and use the 50's in a 2ch stereo set-up in the living room or bedroom, just for music listening(I would just sell them but shipping costs make it pointless)

Mike - try craigslist. Post on both Cleveland and Akron. The buyer would come and pick them up. No shipping and you get cash. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
 
#3,326 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Temple /forum/post/13827939


Most subs have both line level and high level input/outputs. For most the line level is the best way to connect your sub. Just an rca cable from the AVR pre-out to the sub input. However, if you need a really high crossover and your AVR can't offer you a high enough xover point, then the high level connection method is there for you. What you do is connect your L/R fronts speaker wire into the L/R high level inputs on the sub. You then connect speaker wire from your sub high level outputs to your L/R speakers. You set the sub crossover to the appropriate level (in your case 140hz). You set the front speakers to full band or large on the AVR. The sub then handles everything from 140hz down and your fronts get the rest of the signal. It's also recommended when you are running a music first stereo sub setup.


No I'm not in the business. Just know enough to not be too dangerous.


As far as the size of the Epik...yup, it's huge. The AV123 sub I talked about yesterday (MFW15) is another excellent sub that's not quite as big that will probably work fine as well. The Hsu 3.3 is an excellent sub too, but I think it's got the same crossover scheme as the STF 2...90hz tops. They sell a midbass module that will work well in conjunction with it that handles 50hz to 200hz, but it's another $500. You might want to give them a call and ask if there is a work around.


The reason I suggested Epik was because I asked. We were talking about something else. They make great subs that are suited to large rooms for a reasonable price.


SPL is sound pressure level and it corresponds to output which is measured in decibels (dbs).

Hi Ron,


My 606 has shipped and I looked in the manual and:

Crossover Adjustment

(40/50/60/80/100/120/150/200Hz)



So wouldn't I be ok to set it at 150 given my speakers and use RCA?


Also I looked on Polk's website at the RM8:

Overall Frequency

Response 95Hz-24kHz

Lower -3dB Limit 130Hz

Upper -3dB Limit 20kHz



So I see where you got the 130hz but how can "overall be 95 to 24" but then "lower be 130hz"?


Finally, I have noticed that we are now moving on up into the $500 to $600 range. I started with a sub at about $300. Then upped the budget to $400. I might need to stick with a $400 range. Sorry. I looked again at the SVS PB10-NSD but I couldn't see the crossover info? Could it be back on the list? And later get a second if necessary?
 
#3,327 ·
What would be the recommended size speaker wire for a satellite system (RM6880)?


And another question for you polk guys.

I have the RM6880 as we speak, not set up yet. I am also thinking about returning them and getting 2 monitor 60's, and a csi2. Would that be a good set up to get started (if i want to go that route)? And i am planning on possibly getting the Onkyo 606, would that be an ok receiver for the monitor 60's and csi2?
 
#3,328 ·
What's the rule on using a different gauge speaker wire for one of my speakers?


The guy that sold me his Monitor 30s sent two sets of huge speaker wire (probably 10 or 12 gauge). But the won't reach far enough for my surrounds or fronts, so I was just going to use one of them to connect my center channel.


Bad idea? Let me know, I'm starting to hook everything up right now.
 
#3,329 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajstan99 /forum/post/13828483


Mike - try craigslist. Post on both Cleveland and Akron. The buyer would come and pick them up. No shipping and you get cash. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Just for god sakes don't have them come to your house to pick it up. Meeting at a grocery store parking lot or something is always a better idea.


I am not a security freak or anything, but some of those people on Craigslist are...well crazy..and i sure as hell wouldn't want them to know where I am living. Especially if i have hundreds/thousands in AV equipment.
 
#3,330 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by britdiver /forum/post/13828639


Hi Ron,


My 606 has shipped and I looked in the manual and:

Crossover Adjustment

(40/50/60/80/100/120/150/200Hz)



So wouldn't I be ok to set it at 150 given my speakers and use RCA?

Then you're fine. RCA all the way, set the AVR crossover to 120 or 150hz...you're ready to go.

Quote:
Also I looked on Polk's website at the RM8:

Overall Frequency

Response 95Hz-24kHz

Lower -3dB Limit 130Hz

Upper -3dB Limit 20kHz



So I see where you got the 130hz but how can "overall be 95 to 24" but then "lower be 130hz"?

Polk publishes the overall and 3db FR to give you an idea of the slope. At 95hz the speaker is probably 10dbs below where it is at 140hz. Generally, you crossover 1/2 octave above the 3db point (150hz in your case). Crossed this high, you will be able to tell where the bass is coming from, so I'd recommend placement somewhere between the mains.

Quote:
Finally, I have noticed that we are now moving on up into the $500 to $600 range. I started with a sub at about $300. Then upped the budget to $400. I might need to stick with a $400 range. Sorry. I looked again at the SVS PB10-NSD but I couldn't see the crossover info? Could it be back on the list? And later get a second if necessary?

Yes that would work. If you look at the SVS site, PB10 page you can pull up the FR graph. It's stated as +/- 3db from 20-100hz, but click on the link and you can see it's very flat up to 200hz. This will give you a couple of options that might help you out. You can try a lower crossover and might get a better blend. Try 100, 120 and 150 and see which gets you the best blend with your mains. The PB10 is a mighty performer that will put a smile on your face. 2 would be better for your room, but my expectation level is probably much higher than yours. I've gone through many subs in a much smaller room and once you acheive reference bass, it colors

recommendations.


Also, the PB10 has to crossover or high level in/outputs. This isn't a problem now that we know your AVR can handle it.


In the interest of not confusing you anymore
, I'm putting my final seal of approval on this suggestion
.


Buy your stuff and have a great time.
 
#3,331 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbutle4 /forum/post/13830450


What's the rule on using a different gauge speaker wire for one of my speakers?


The guy that sold me his Monitor 30s sent two sets of huge speaker wire (probably 10 or 12 gauge). But the won't reach far enough for my surrounds or fronts, so I was just going to use one of them to connect my center channel.

No rules like that
, in my book at least. The only issue with the thicker wire is added cooper and cost, but you got yours for free. You could argue against using different wires for main L/R ('cause some people suggest they can hear differences - or think they are hearing them), but as long as the gauge is adequate for the length and speaker impedance, you can mix/match wires in your system.
 
#3,332 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Temple /forum/post/13831115


Then you're fine. RCA all the way, set the AVR crossover to 120 or 150hz...you're ready to go.


Polk publishes the overall and 3db FR to give you an idea of the slope. At 95hz the speaker is probably 10dbs below where it is at 140hz. Generally, you crossover 1/2 octave above the 3db point (150hz in your case). Crossed this high, you will be able to tell where the bass is coming from, so I'd recommend placement somewhere between the mains.


Yes that would work. If you look at the SVS site, PB10 page you can pull up the FR graph. It's stated as +/- 3db from 20-100hz, but click on the link and you can see it's very flat up to 200hz. This will give you a couple of options that might help you out. You can try a lower crossover and might get a better blend. Try 100, 120 and 150 and see which gets you the best blend with your mains. The PB10 is a mighty performer that will put a smile on your face. 2 would be better for your room, but my expectation level is probably much higher than yours. I've gone through many subs in a much smaller room and once you acheive reference bass, it colors

recommendations.


Also, the PB10 has to crossover or high level in/outputs. This isn't a problem now that we know your AVR can handle it.


In the interest of not confusing you anymore
, I'm putting my final seal of approval on this suggestion
.


Buy your stuff and have a great time.

Cool. Thanks Ron. Hopefully OhioMike will also give his seal of approval.

But I agree its time for me to shut up and buy it. I can't thank you enough for all the help and time you have put into this for me. Way beyond what I could have hoped for. I really appreciate it. I know this forum is full of experts with bone rattling HT setups, so to help me a newbie with a little system like this is awesome. I know my system is not what most here want but I can't wait. Due to everyones help (especially yours) I'm now more confident about it and learned a lot in the process. I think you saved me from making a mistake I would have regretted and now I'm sure this system will at least reach my lowly goals.


So SVS PB-10NSD it is (and maybe a second one down the road). Agree with that selection OhioMike?
 
#3,333 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinipux77 /forum/post/13831514


No rules like that
, in my book at least. The only issue with the thicker wire is added cooper and cost, but you got yours for free. You could argue against using different wires for main L/R ('cause some people suggest they can hear differences - or think they are hearing them), but as long as the gauge is adequate for the length and speaker impedance, you can mix/match wires in your system.

Cool, thanks for the tip. I've got my fronts and surrounds wired with 14 gauge, and I guess I'll use the larger wire for my center.
 
#3,334 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by arsenic0 /forum/post/13830633


Just for god sakes don't have them come to your house to pick it up. Meeting at a grocery store parking lot or something is always a better idea.


I am not a security freak or anything, but some of those people on Craigslist are...well crazy..and i sure as hell wouldn't want them to know where I am living. Especially if i have hundreds/thousands in AV equipment.

Two words


Renters insurance.
 
#3,335 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by IrishLegend /forum/post/13818367


So if I find some deals from the Polk-Audio-Direct ebay store would it be worth it even though the warranty isn't as long?

I'm thinking I might be able to get some Monitor 60's on Polk-Audio-Direct for the same price as brand new Monitor 50's.

What do you guys think?

I purchased my mains (Monitor 70's) off Polks ebay store. They are refurb units and I think they only came with a 90 day warranty. The two that I received look completely brand new; not a single blemish on them. I've been very happy with the purchase.


OhioMike, I'm sad that you took back your setup. I guess it's a good thing you bought locally or else you'd be shipping it all back
I was going to ask you if you ever found anything to prop up the Monitor 50's an inch or two, but now that they're your mains you probably don't need to worry about that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by britdiver /forum/post/0


So SVS PB-10NSD it is (and maybe a second one down the road). Agree with that selection OhioMike?

I took a leap of faith and ordered the PB-10NSD. This is my first home theater setup so I don't have much experience to compare it with, but I can honestly say this sub literally rocks my house
 
#3,336 ·





Man this is awesome!!!!! I can hear so much more detail in everything. Much more than I was expecting. I haven't even tried out a Bluray yet. Just some video games, TV, streaming mp3s, and records.


Like I stated earlier, my sub isn't in yet, so obviously the bass is lacking, but I'm still very satisfied with how it all sounds. Can't wait to get that Bic H-100 hooked up!!
 
#3,337 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioMike /forum/post/13826784


Hey Peter,

First, first....yes, you do want the x-over on direct. This will allow for your receiver to set the cut-off for the sub.


To answer the other part....I kind of got cold feet about my system yesterday and returned it before my 30 days were up. This included the 70's..CS2..and DPS-10. I just started feeling as if, even though I really loved the set-up, it just wasn't right for me. I loved the way the system handled music, but I never listen to music in the theater except to test out the speakers. I just got the feeling that I didn't need the monster 70's for my particular interests. So..then I didn't need the CS2 and I bought it all as a package with special financing and the return of those left me without the special financing on the sub and so back it went.

So...now I am looking into some other options from a few manufacturers, which may still include Polk, I've been nothing but happy with the ones I've had and love being a part of this Polk thread.

Right now is kind of sucking in my HT since the return...I had already sold my CS1 so I am left with a 4.1ch set-up with my 50's and 30's and my extra Yamaha sub. Not really diggin the "phantom center".

So..right now I am just going to sell my 30's and use the 50's in a 2ch stereo set-up in the living room or bedroom, just for music listening(I would just sell them but shipping costs make it pointless) while I search for a new set-up. I am just that guy who is never satisfied with what he's got and always lookin' over the fence at all the greener pastures on the other side and I always slide further down the rabbit hole because of it. It is my curse and I made peace with it long ago.

Hello Mike,

Its sad to hear that you want to change the thread.

It was always nice to talk to You and thanks a lot for all your help and suggestions.

I think that You will find a different site to post with a different manufactury speakers but then You will have much more work to do, cose You will have to post duble in new one and ofcourse POLK THREAD too


Thanks for your help in arranging my HT and I wish it's not over yet


Let me know if You stay for a wild with us.
 
#3,338 ·
Brit, I think you will love that sub. I think you can feel now that you have done your homework and sought advice to the fullest extent and feel confident that you have made an educated decision about what is best for you.


Thank you all for the kind words, I will definitely still be sharing my knowledge in this thread, no matter what I decide to do. I'm glad I could help you couple of guys out so much over the past weeks and look forward to a new batch of recruits to the Polk Army
 
#3,339 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioMike /forum/post/13835558


Brit, I think you will love that sub. I think you can feel now that you have done your homework and sought advice to the fullest extent and feel confident that you have made an educated decision about what is best for you.


Thank you all for the kind words, I will definitely still be sharing my knowledge in this thread, no matter what I decide to do. I'm glad I could help you couple of guys out so much over the past weeks and look forward to a new batch of recruits to the Polk Army

Mike, there are lots of great speakers out there. Experiment and find something you like whether Polk or other brands. Take what you've learned and keep on helping folks...it's much appreciated.
 
#3,340 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioMike /forum/post/13835558


Brit, I think you will love that sub. I think you can feel now that you have done your homework and sought advice to the fullest extent and feel confident that you have made an educated decision about what is best for you.


Thank you all for the kind words, I will definitely still be sharing my knowledge in this thread, no matter what I decide to do. I'm glad I could help you couple of guys out so much over the past weeks and look forward to a new batch of recruits to the Polk Army

Great. Once again I appreciate all the help. You certainly helped me dodge a bullet and buying the wrong sub. Not only have you and Ron helped me with selecting a good sub for my needs, but it's been fun learning. Thanks.
 
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