Definitive Owners Thread - Page 1047 - AVS Forum
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post #31381 of 31950 Old 07-31-2014, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UGAd13 View Post
The PC2000 is a better match to the PM1000s. Can you swap the PC1000 for the PC2000? The naming convention DT used for the series is silly...
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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
Do you need in ceiling speakers. I would wall mount another pair of 1000s or 800s.
Yes, they have to be in-ceiling speakers because of my wife.........Any input?
They need to be square or rectangular but not round to be symmetrical with the room.


I bought PM 1000 for $129 each (refurb) and bought the PC 2000 for $199 (refurb). Ideally something around or under $200-250 for the pair of in-ceiling rear speakers would be my target....

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post #31382 of 31950 Old 08-01-2014, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atwnsw View Post
Yes, they have to be in-ceiling speakers because of my wife.........Any input?
They need to be square or rectangular but not round to be symmetrical with the room.


I bought PM 1000 for $129 each (refurb) and bought the PC 2000 for $199 (refurb). Ideally something around or under $200-250 for the pair of in-ceiling rear speakers would be my target....
Then what about the UIW-55, personally I prefer a separate driver over stacked like the 5.5, you can get some referbs on E-Bay for between $225-$275 a pair.
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post #31383 of 31950 Old 08-01-2014, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panasonic98 View Post
I talked to the def tech guy again, and he said that the larger size of the speaker, along with the large passive bass radiator, more than makes up for the slightly smaller size woofers on the 8040. He also said they are timbre matched (whatever that means) with the 350's and that 3 inches of space is enough since it's just a passive module. He concluded that the 8040 is going to be (sound-wise) the better choice compared to the PC-2000. Since I like the look of the 8040 better, I think I'll go with that one. I'll probably get it from Best Buy, like you said, to have the return option. Thanks for your help.
Cool, I've actually gotten some great advise from Chet over at DefTech, and unlike some places a lot of his suggestions actually worked out "not" in their favor financially, and considering that every situation is slightly different and he's working off just information provided by the customer, he's been pretty spot on. And even with my system being all old school tech, he's been more than accommodating to help me with info.

Let us know how it turns out.

In an unscientific way Timbre is tonal quality, and it is actually more important than driver size matching, normally best way to tweak your system as far as speakers go is timbre match first, driver match second. And especially with the front three, since their relationship is far more important than the relationship to the surrounds.

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post #31384 of 31950 Old 08-01-2014, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
I asked Baja-waverunner if the these DefTech's had the Factory warranty and he said no.
I asked why - didnt DefTech refurbish these speakers, and he said no..
I asked who refurbished them then and he would not say..

Frandanco
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post #31385 of 31950 Old 08-01-2014, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by frandanco View Post
I asked Baja-waverunner if the these DefTech's had the Factory warranty and he said no.
I asked why - didnt DefTech refurbish these speakers, and he said no..
I asked who refurbished them then and he would not say..
I bought a set and the paypal receipt was for Directed Electronics who owns DefTec. Speakers aren't like projectors, if they work they usually work forever unless they are abused. Also getting the speakers 40%-45% off if one goes bad down the line I'm still way ahead.

My speakers looked like all but one had never been out of the box, all worked perfectly. My guess is most of these are unopened returns.
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post #31386 of 31950 Old 08-02-2014, 12:35 AM
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Yup, places like baja are where a lot of the big chain store's open box and returns end up, don't forget re-ferb can be anything from a complete rebuild to a simple inspection, the term covers a pretty wide range.
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post #31387 of 31950 Old 08-02-2014, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frandanco View Post
I asked Baja-waverunner if the these DefTech's had the Factory warranty and he said no.
I asked why - didnt DefTech refurbish these speakers, and he said no..
I asked who refurbished them then and he would not say..

Frandanco
Five of my seven speakers in my HT are from Baja. No issues with any of them. I think he has a 90 day return. I would by from him anytime. Pay retail if you want, but you don't need to. I think multiple people in this thread have the same opinion.
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post #31388 of 31950 Old 08-02-2014, 12:06 PM
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This is great news !

Thank to all that replied to my post !

I am glad to hear that this seller has passed your reviews and will be looking there for more of my fun products in the future..
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post #31389 of 31950 Old 08-02-2014, 10:20 PM
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Hello Experts,
I am setting up a home theater in my living room(great room), that opens to dining area and that opens to the kitchen.
I bought a Pioneer VSX 70 Elite AV receiver. My TV is mounted above the fireplace (not ideal but works OK)
Which of the following would be the best setup ?
1. Promonitor 800 for front left and front right(mounted on stands/on the wall on either sides of the fireplace), pro monitor 1000 for the center(on the fireplace mantle), DI 6.5R for rear channels(in ceilings).
2. DI6.5R for front left, front right and rear channels along with Pro 1000 for the center(this goes on the fireplace mantle).
3. DI6.5R for all five channels.

Thanks,
Vijay
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post #31390 of 31950 Old 08-03-2014, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vijay609 View Post
Hello Experts,
I am setting up a home theater in my living room(great room), that opens to dining area and that opens to the kitchen.
I bought a Pioneer VSX 70 Elite AV receiver. My TV is mounted above the fireplace (not ideal but works OK)
Which of the following would be the best setup ?
1. Promonitor 800 for front left and front right(mounted on stands/on the wall on either sides of the fireplace), pro monitor 1000 for the center(on the fireplace mantle), DI 6.5R for rear channels(in ceilings).
2. DI6.5R for front left, front right and rear channels along with Pro 1000 for the center(this goes on the fireplace mantle).
3. DI6.5R for all five channels.

Thanks,
Vijay

That's sound like a lot of space for PM800s to cover. What's your budget and where are you ordering from? What's the total of the main viewing space, then the space around it? What are your space constraints for the speakers?


If you go all in ceiling, look for some angled speakers like this. http://www.htd.com/Products/high-def...iling-speakers

Lowell


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post #31391 of 31950 Old 08-03-2014, 05:11 PM
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Anybody here running BP8080ST with high end subs? Any cancellation issues?

Lowell


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post #31392 of 31950 Old 08-04-2014, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vijay609 View Post
Hello Experts,
I am setting up a home theater in my living room(great room), that opens to dining area and that opens to the kitchen.
I bought a Pioneer VSX 70 Elite AV receiver. My TV is mounted above the fireplace (not ideal but works OK)
Which of the following would be the best setup ?
1. Promonitor 800 for front left and front right(mounted on stands/on the wall on either sides of the fireplace), pro monitor 1000 for the center(on the fireplace mantle), DI 6.5R for rear channels(in ceilings).
2. DI6.5R for front left, front right and rear channels along with Pro 1000 for the center(this goes on the fireplace mantle).
3. DI6.5R for all five channels.

Thanks,
Vijay

I would run with PM 1000's as L/R and the PC 2000 as the center. The PM 800's can be the surrounds.

Epson Pro Cinema 6030 | OPPO BDP - 103 | Pioneer Elite VSX 70 | Definitive Technology PM 1000 (L/R) | PC 2000 (C) | SR8040BP's (7.1) | Rythmik LV12R | Carada Criterion Brilliant White 118" | URC MX 780 & MRF 350 | ATS Acoustic Panels | Sanus AV Rack | DirecTv | Roku 2 | Monoprice 12AWG |
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post #31393 of 31950 Old 08-05-2014, 09:08 PM
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bp2006

I just bought a pair bp2006. I have a c-2 center.What center would match up better with the 2006.Any opinions are very appreciated.
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post #31394 of 31950 Old 08-06-2014, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jasammeg View Post
I just bought a pair bp2006. I have a c-2 center.What center would match up better with the 2006.Any opinions are very appreciated.
Depends on your space:
Enclosed cabinet:
New - keep your C-2, IMO anything else new that would be better than the C-2 would require a more open space.
Used - CLR-2002

Open space:
New - CS-8060-HD
or
Keep your C-2, personally I think the PC-2000 or CS-8040 just isn't enough of an upgrade to justify the expense compared to spending just a little more and going to the 8060
Used - CLR-2300
(If you look back to when the 2006's were new, the 2300 was the perfect match.)

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post #31395 of 31950 Old 08-06-2014, 02:17 PM
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Thanks for your advice Altoff.Right now I have the original bp8, do you think the bp2006tl I am getting will be a upgrade from bp8.
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post #31396 of 31950 Old 08-06-2014, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jasammeg View Post
Thanks for your advice Altoff.Right now I have the original bp8, do you think the bp2006tl I am getting will be a upgrade from bp8.
Absolutely, even with the smaller mid drivers the addition of the powered sub (even just the 8") will make a pretty significant difference, it should sound fuller, richer and have a larger sound field with significantly more depth.
Plus it will give you more options as far as sub placementand the extra base in the entire system will just add a more visceral feeling to the whole thing, music or movies.
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post #31397 of 31950 Old 08-07-2014, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
Anybody here running BP8080ST with high end subs? Any cancellation issues?
I'm running the 8080's along with a DefTech SuperCube Reference. For 2 channel music I turn the sub off and set the fronts to large and it sounds great. For movies and multichannel music I set the fronts to small and use the sub.

No issues here. Fantastic sound in my room.

Chris
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post #31398 of 31950 Old 08-07-2014, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atwnsw
Yes, they have to be in-ceiling speakers because of my wife.........Any input?
They need to be square or rectangular but not round to be symmetrical with the room.


I bought PM 1000 for $129 each (refurb) and bought the PC 2000 for $199 (refurb). Ideally something around or under $200-250 for the pair of in-ceiling rear speakers would be my target....


Then what about the UIW-55, personally I prefer a separate driver over stacked like the 5.5, you can get some referbs on E-Bay for between $225-$275 a pair.

Anybody else weigh in on what type/model of in-ceiling rear speakers to go with my PM1000s and PC2000?
1 vote for UIW-55
1 vote for DI5.5R

Can I get a consensus?
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post #31399 of 31950 Old 08-07-2014, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mumps View Post
I'm running the 8080's along with a DefTech SuperCube Reference. For 2 channel music I turn the sub off and set the fronts to large and it sounds great. For movies and multichannel music I set the fronts to small and use the sub.

No issues here. Fantastic sound in my room.

Chris
Thanks for the reply, what size is the room and how close together are they? If I got 8080s they would be right next to 2 very powerful subs.

Lowell


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post #31400 of 31950 Old 08-08-2014, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LowellG View Post
Thanks for the reply, what size is the room and how close together are they? If I got 8080s they would be right next to 2 very powerful subs.
Lowell, could you move your subs, I know with my large room (23x23)
and my 2000's up front, my subs are absolutely at home in the rear corners, base is pretty enveloping, plus it really let's you utilize the subs in the 8080's.
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post #31401 of 31950 Old 08-08-2014, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ALtlOff View Post
Lowell, could you move your subs, I know with my large room (23x23)
and my 2000's up front, my subs are absolutely at home in the rear corners, base is pretty enveloping, plus it really let's you utilize the subs in the 8080's.
It's a good thought, but since they are dual firing the one side would be firing right into the bass traps. I don't know what impact that will have. It's a lot a work to shift every thing around, but maybe I will throw my 2006s from the other room in there this weekend and try it.

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post #31402 of 31950 Old 08-09-2014, 09:00 AM
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BP8 Tweeter is Out (No Sound). Need Advice

Hi all. I bought Definitive Technology speakers back in 1997 as the basis for my then new home theater system - BP2002s for front L/R, C/L/R 2002 for the center, and BP8s for surround L/R. A few years ago, I moved across the country and had professional movers move my gear. I still use the speakers and love them, but I noticed around the time that I moved, the tweeter in one of the BP8s has gone out (no sound). (There is no outside physical damage to the speaker from the move.) I just put up with the issue for years as it's not terribly noticeable - but I know the problem exists and that bugs me, I want to fix it. Today, I pulled the mesh down just to inspect the speaker. (DISCLAIMER: I know very little about repairing speakers.) First thing I noticed is that there are front and rear tweeters. They seem to look OK, although the front aluminum tweeter does seem to have a crinkle in it. I also know from doing a Denon Audessey setup that when it tests that speaker, no noise at all comes out of either tweeter. This leads me to believe that it's the crossover mechanism inside instead of physical damage to the tweeters. Maybe something was jarred loose in the move years ago? Anyway, is there such a thing as a repair manual for these? Should I take the tweeters out and inspect inside? Seems simple, but I really don't know what I'm looking for and I want to be careful. Further tests I can do to determine the problem? Thanks for any guidance someone here may give me before I delve inside the cabinet.

Last edited by petes457; 08-09-2014 at 09:01 AM. Reason: I want to manage my subscription. I forgot.
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post #31403 of 31950 Old 08-09-2014, 09:38 AM
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If they're both out I'd say you're either correct about the diagnosis on the crossover, or the wiring just physically became disconnected, I don't know of a service manual but should be a fairly simple process to check for a disconnect, since its both I would say it that if it is a disconnect, it would be down by the crossover, lay the speaker on it's side and carefully remove the plate from the bottom of the speaker where the wires connect, the crossover is connected to the back side of it, just do it slowly so you can watch for disconnected or lose wires. If there's nothing glaringly evident you may want to try swapping the plate from your other speaker to see if this corrects the problem, at least that way you'll know of its the crossover itself or not. If so you can usually find them for sale on E-Bay pretty reasonable.

Good luck
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post #31404 of 31950 Old 08-09-2014, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ALtlOff View Post
If they're both out I'd say you're either correct about the diagnosis on the crossover, or the wiring just physically became disconnected, I don't know of a service manual but should be a fairly simple process to check for a disconnect, since its both I would say it that if it is a disconnect, it would be down by the crossover, lay the speaker on it's side and carefully remove the plate from the bottom of the speaker where the wires connect, the crossover is connected to the back side of it, just do it slowly so you can watch for disconnected or lose wires. If there's nothing glaringly evident you may want to try swapping the plate from your other speaker to see if this corrects the problem, at least that way you'll know of its the crossover itself or not. If so you can usually find them for sale on E-Bay pretty reasonable.

Good luck
Thanks so much for your quick reply. I did as you suggested and took off the bottom plate (where the speaker wires connect) and pulled out the plate to expose the crossover circuit board on the other side. (I attached a picture.) The crossover board and components seem to be in very good shape and all four colored wires are securely connected. The plate itself seems to just be a piece of plastic with the speaker posts on it. You think the plate could be causing just the tweeter component to go out? I really don't know how I can take this out and test it with my "good" BP8. The four colored wires are soldered onto the crossover board and the red coil next to the plate is glued securely onto it. (I was really hoping it would be a simple disconnected wire.)

Thanks so much for helping.
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post #31405 of 31950 Old 08-09-2014, 11:54 AM
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Thanks so much for your quick reply. I did as you suggested and took off the bottom plate (where the speaker wires connect) and pulled out the plate to expose the crossover circuit board on the other side. (I attached a picture.) The crossover board and components seem to be in very good shape and all four colored wires are securely connected. The plate itself seems to just be a piece of plastic with the speaker posts on it. You think the plate could be causing just the tweeter component to go out? I really don't know how I can take this out and test it with my "good" BP8. The four colored wires are soldered onto the crossover board and the red coil next to the plate is glued securely onto it. (I was really hoping it would be a simple disconnected wire.)

Thanks so much for helping.
Well at least that gives you another chance at an easy fix, since there's only four wires from the crossover that means a pair for the mids, a pair for the tweeters, which in turn said that the pair of tweeters are jumpered somewhere (as opposed to them being attached to the crossover separately) there's a good chance they're jumped at one of the tweeters, and of course of you lost a connection at that tweeter they both won't work.
Try pulling them one at a time and see, if everything looks good, you're probably talking about replacing the crossover do no need to have to get the soldering gun out to try swapping them.

Fingers crossed...

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post #31406 of 31950 Old 08-09-2014, 01:24 PM
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Sadly, the crossed fingers didn't seem to work. :-(

I took off the rear-facing tweeter and it had two pairs of wires - yellow and green - securely attached. (See first attached picture.) Then I took off the front-facing tweeter and it had the jumper wires from the rear tweeter also securely attached. (See second pic.) All in all everything looked in good shape. The only other thing is I did notice a ding on the speaker wood finish immediately next to the tweeter I had never seen before as if there had maybe been an impact in the past. I don't know how fragile tweeters are (I would think very fragile), but they look fine from my point of view. If one of the tweeters was damaged, would it cause the other one not to play also? Is there a test while I have it taken apart to see that both tweeters are operable?
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post #31407 of 31950 Old 08-09-2014, 01:41 PM
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Sadly, the crossed fingers didn't seem to work. :-(

I took off the rear-facing tweeter and it had two pairs of wires - yellow and green - securely attached. (See first attached picture.) Then I took off the front-facing tweeter and it had the jumper wires from the rear tweeter also securely attached. (See second pic.) All in all everything looked in good shape. The only other thing is I did notice a ding on the speaker wood finish immediately next to the tweeter I had never seen before as if there had maybe been an impact in the past. I don't know how fragile tweeters are (I would think very fragile), but they look fine from my point of view. If one of the tweeters was damaged, would it cause the other one not to play also? Is there a test while I have it taken apart to see that both tweeters are operable?
If the tweeter isn't working with the new one, look at the crossover board and see if it shorted out.

EDIT: never mind I missed your previous post.
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post #31408 of 31950 Old 08-09-2014, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by petes457 View Post
Sadly, the crossed fingers didn't seem to work. :-(

I took off the rear-facing tweeter and it had two pairs of wires - yellow and green - securely attached. (See first attached picture.) Then I took off the front-facing tweeter and it had the jumper wires from the rear tweeter also securely attached. (See second pic.) All in all everything looked in good shape. The only other thing is I did notice a ding on the speaker wood finish immediately next to the tweeter I had never seen before as if there had maybe been an impact in the past. I don't know how fragile tweeters are (I would think very fragile), but they look fine from my point of view. If one of the tweeters was damaged, would it cause the other one not to play also? Is there a test while I have it taken apart to see that both tweeters are operable?
Last simple test would be to re-attach the speaker wires to the plate and get a couple spare wires to jumper from the tweeter to another speaker of some kind.
or
Try checking the wire at the tweeter with a multi meter to see if you're getting any kind of signal up to the tweeter at all.

Otherwise, start looking on e-bay for a crossover, shouldn't cost much and you could just cut and solder the wires to each other if you're not confident enough to solder to the crossover itself.
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post #31409 of 31950 Old 08-10-2014, 01:20 PM
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Hi folks! Haven't been here in a while.

Just wondering can you guys help or any suggestions for the Crossover Freq?

C: CLR2002
F: BP2002TL
S: BP1.2x
SB: Procinema 400

Thx!
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post #31410 of 31950 Old 08-10-2014, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRAISKI View Post
Hi folks! Haven't been here in a while.

Just wondering can you guys help or any suggestions for the Crossover Freq?

C: CLR2002
F: BP2002TL
S: BP1.2x
SB: Procinema 400

Thx!


I would need to know a little more. How big is the room, what sub(s) do you have, what are you powering them with?


I have a CS 8080 crossed at 40, my SR8080BPs are at 60 and my SM65s are at 100. The SM 65s should be crossed the lowest, but I have them sitting on top of PSA XS30s. These are all in a dedicated HT with sound control.


I do have 1.2Xs in my main family room and the only subs supporting them are the BP2006TLs. So I have them at 60.


I would say your PC400s should be able to handle 40 or 50 no problem. The CLR 2002 at 60 or 80. The other 2002s set to large and set the receiver to both.

Lowell


The MARVELous Home Theater: http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...e-theater.html
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