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post #38761 of 52456 Old 04-13-2012, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

yeah the 22 Reference Connoisseurs were the Energy flagship models back then. They were released in like 1982. Had a frequency response of 25Hz to 45Khz (incredible for the time). Used a 1 inch tweeter and 7 inch woofer. I believe the famous Dual Hyperdome tweeter's were "soft-dome" style, this design yielded unique properties. The latter product lines (ie. Veritas, RC-Series, etc.,...) involved aluminum dome designs.

Did you get your 22 Pro's brand new? I believe the weight differences between the two models were mostly related to cabinet dimensions. I'm sure they had hefty magnets as well.

Yeah, the original C-Series, or "Connoisseur" series, (I believe released in late 90's/early 2000's) performed extremely well too for aluminum dome tweeters. I originally owned a pair of C-3's which I loved (and became very highly sought after). These models used a type of "poly" woofer material (homopolymer woofer), an updated, but similiar, material used on the 22 Reference Connoisseur woofer material.
http://www.soundstage.com/revequip/energy_c3.htm

Later the release of the Reference Connoisseur, or "RC-Series", saw the use of kevlar woofer cone material combined with aluminum dome tweeters. I felt these speakers invoked the best sound characteristics following the original C-Series.

However the 1rst/2nd generation Veritas product line were extremely well designed flagship models as well.

Yes, the 22 series used a soft dome tweeter.
I bought my 22 Pro Monitors used last year. The specs are amazing for this era of speakers, especially the Reference Connoisseurs. Energy built a solid reputation by only producing world leading speakers back in the day.

I also really like the original C models. I have the C-8s and they are excellent in my opinion.

The Veritas 1.8s are by far the very best speakers that I have. That series of Veritas really demonstrates the highest standards that Energy had.

Here are some older manuals from Energy

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post #38762 of 52456 Old 04-13-2012, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caper_1 View Post

wish I had a SACD player. I always recommend that album as 'reference' listening material. Hank, can I talk to you about vinyl? I also have that on vinyl, but my stylus keep sliding across records, so I think i need a new one. I want to start playing records now that I have a new audio rack upstairs.


You need to rotate the counter weight until the tone arm free floats about 2 inches above the turntable platter (this means that the tone arm/cartridge doesnt fall onto the platter or fly straight up - it should be floating almost level)

At that point rotate the black numeric ring, which is in front of the chrome counter balance ring to zero at the 12 o' clock position. Do this without rotating the chrome counter balance weight (it should still be free floating at this point)

I have no idea what quality your turntable is but it should track at 1.5 -2 grams. Start by rotating the counter balance weight to 2 grams (not the black numeric ring, the whole chrome counter weight). At this point the tone arm should drop back into the tone arm holder.

Set the anti-skate adjustment to the same value = 2

And here is a Youtube video showing the same, except for the anti-skate adjustment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G35Hluc2ZkM
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post #38763 of 52456 Old 04-13-2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scotsomuni View Post

@kgallerie Thanks - I think I will go with that from Monoprice. I might get the 12 AWG instead for a few extra bucks.

I'm also looking for a 7.2 wall-plate that also has HDMI connections...any recommendations? I will be adding V-Minis as front height speakers, and the wall-plates I see online don't have front-height ports.

No need to pay more for 12 AWG unless you are running your wires a really long ways. The 14 AWG is plenty heavy.....

I don't even mess with wall plates with connectors anymore... more connections = more places for signal loss/degradation. Do a search in Monoprice for "wall plates" and you will find plenty of options. Including something like this.....

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...t=1#largeimage
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post #38764 of 52456 Old 04-13-2012, 05:29 PM
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Energy and Denon combo continues to amaze me!

I have a modest Denon AVR-789 and RC 10 / S10.3 set up for my 2.1. but the soundstage continues to amaze me. Now listening to my originally bought / rarely played SRV LP "Couldn't Stand the Weather" Absolutely gloreous the way you would swear there was a center channel in the works. Now onto some Clapton!
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post #38765 of 52456 Old 04-13-2012, 06:01 PM
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Question for you guys. On speakers I was told to make sure if you have 2 of the same speakers to make sure the last digit of each speaker is different like one ends in an even number and the other speaker of the same ends in an odd number.

Also the closer those consequtive numbers are on the pair of speakers the better

Ive got some stuff
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post #38766 of 52456 Old 04-13-2012, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Mardukous View Post

I agree that the best match for baron2 is to get more of the current RC speakers to use for surrounds.
I would be willing to bet large amounts that the 22 Reference Connoisseurs would match the current RCs much better than the current Cs do though. They would be a little low, but they are angled up to help with that.

The 22 Reference Connoisseurs are the top of the line by far, for that era. I have the 22 Pros with the original functioning tweeters and they are very good. The 22 Pros weigh about 35 pounds a piece, while the 22 Reference Connoisseurs weigh in at over 80 pounds a piece.

The guy never returned 2 emails and the ad is still running so who knows but at the moment Im looking at staying in the RC line.

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post #38767 of 52456 Old 04-13-2012, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Mardukous View Post

I got my SACD players used for pretty cheap. The Denon 2910 is my best player, but it is by no means anywhere near the best that is available.

I am no expert, but I have messed around with many old players and have got them to work. What player do you have? Are you getting any sound out of your table? I would first try turning the arm weight at the back of the arm in or clockwise. It sounds like there might be to much counterweight and it needs to be adjusted. Next, I would look at any anti skating controls that you might have.
I can't believe that the guy that I loaned my QSC 1700 amp to blew it up. Those amps are indestructible for 99% of the population. I don't know what he is doing to his amps, but he has killed three robust models in a short time, I think it's his speakers. Anyways, that was the amp I wanted to use for a sub.



Quote:
Originally Posted by DAC21 View Post

You need to rotate the counter weight until the tone arm free floats about 2 inches above the turntable platter (this means that the tone arm/cartridge doesnt fall onto the platter or fly straight up - it should be floating almost level)

At that point rotate the black numeric ring, which is in front of the chrome counter balance ring to zero at the 12 o' clock position. Do this without rotating the chrome counter balance weight (it should still be free floating at this point)

I have no idea what quality your turntable is but it should track at 1.5 -2 grams. Start by rotating the counter balance weight to 2 grams (not the black numeric ring, the whole chrome counter weight). At this point the tone arm should drop back into the tone arm holder.

Set the anti-skate adjustment to the same value = 2

And here is a Youtube video showing the same, except for the anti-skate adjustment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G35Hluc2ZkM

I think the TK-421 phaser is out of voltage tolerance with the canouter valve!!! j/k, thanks for all that info, I will dig it out tomorrow. It is just a cheapy Kenwood turntable. I will try and figure out what all those parts are, because I know absolutely zero about them!

HT: Yamaha RX-V565 | 3 X Energy Take FPS, 2 X VS Surround, 2 X Take LCR | DIY Subs: SDX12 APR15 & TRIO12 Dual APR 12's | 47" LCD

Music: Yamaha RX-V863 | 2 X Energy RC-70 | MA RXw12 Sub

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post #38768 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 06:21 AM
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[THIS] is the one I have. Here is the [MANUAL].

HT: Yamaha RX-V565 | 3 X Energy Take FPS, 2 X VS Surround, 2 X Take LCR | DIY Subs: SDX12 APR15 & TRIO12 Dual APR 12's | 47" LCD

Music: Yamaha RX-V863 | 2 X Energy RC-70 | MA RXw12 Sub

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post #38769 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 08:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knight_40k View Post

+1

RC-R's are incredible speakers. I have them set to Di-pole and it really feels like you are part of the action.

I'm really impressed as well, I have a pretty tough large and open to the kitchen/dining room and these work great and fill up the room with diffuse sound. I have mine set to Bipole because I'm forward of the speakers and it's what their chart recommends and they've done an amazing job back there. Pretty much everything I'd want in a surround.
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post #38770 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 08:36 AM
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Any help on this would be great

Quote:
Originally Posted by baron2 View Post

Question for you guys. On speakers I was told to make sure if you have 2 of the same speakers to make sure the last digit of each speaker is different like one ends in an even number and the other speaker of the same ends in an odd number.

Also the closer those consequtive numbers are on the pair of speakers the better


Ive got some stuff
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post #38771 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

yes, you're exactly right! I love these speakers, great design. They perform very well and look great on the wall.

I agree they do look nice up there! They are big as far as footprint but don't stick out into the room much which is great. I'm also a big fan of the mounting hardware in that it keeps the speaker really close to the wall and it's so eazy to take the speaker down to change the wiring or whatever and put it back up. I've been trying to clean up the wiring of my system and this has been invaluable!
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post #38772 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by baron2 View Post

Any help on this would be great

I'm really not sure where this came from so I can't comment on how accurate it is but I wouldn't stress too much about it. The part about making sure you have an odd number and an even number means that there is an assumption of some kind of left and right speaker. Some companies do have speakers that are designed to be used on the left and right but energy are not designed that way as each speaker is designed to meet the same specs. So maybe this is just a bigger deal for tower speakers that have woofers on a specific side or tweeters angled in to the listening position while the rest of the speaker fires straight into the room. Again energy RC's or the new veritas don't do either of these.

As to having speakers with similar serial numbers that sounds like it's to make sure the speakers are from the same manufacturing batch which I could see some value in expecially if one speaker is from say 5 years ago and the other one was made yesterday as the parts may have changed over time. With the fact that these energys have been almost sold out and discontinued I'd say it's safe to assume all of these are coming from the same batch and were probably all manufactured recently with the same parts. So I personally wouldn't worry too much about this one either but this all comes down to personal preferance really.
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post #38773 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karn View Post

I'm really not sure where this came from so I can't comment on how accurate it is but I wouldn't stress too much about it. The part about making sure you have an odd number and an even number means that there is an assumption of some kind of left and right speaker. Some companies do have speakers that are designed to be used on the left and right but energy are not designed that way as each speaker is designed to meet the same specs. So maybe this is just a bigger deal for tower speakers that have woofers on a specific side or tweeters angled in to the listening position while the rest of the speaker fires straight into the room. Again energy RC's or the new veritas don't do either of these.

As to having speakers with similar serial numbers that sounds like it's to make sure the speakers are from the same manufacturing batch which I could see some value in expecially if one speaker is from say 5 years ago and the other one was made yesterday as the parts may have changed over time. With the fact that these energys have been almost sold out and discontinued I'd say it's safe to assume all of these are coming from the same batch and were probably all manufactured recently with the same parts. So I personally wouldn't worry too much about this one either but this all comes down to personal preferance really.

Thanks Karn for that info. I had a damaged rc-70 they sent back a replacement. The one I kept was an even number, damaged one was an odd number and they were only 3 numbers apart. The new one they sent me ended in an even number again so I was worried about that. By the way this new one is only 6 numbers apart from the original one I kept.

Ive got some stuff
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post #38774 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baron2 View Post

Thanks Karn for that info. I had a damaged rc-70 they sent back a replacement. The one I kept was an even number, damaged one was an odd number and they were only 3 numbers apart. The new one they sent me ended in an even number again so I was worried about that. By the way this new one is only 6 numbers apart from the original one I kept.

You're welcome, you should be fine you could be sure that those came from the same batch and neither speaker was designed to be in a pair so even if you did have a matching pair of serials they wouldn't be any more likely to match than any other speaker in that batch. I believe when you get into the higher end stuff they may be designed as pairs but that adds a lot of cost to the whole process so if they were designed that way energy would be sure to let us know about it. Sorry to hear you had a damaged speaker but glad you were able to get it corrected. Enjoy the speakers these 70's are pretty amazing!
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post #38775 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karn View Post

I'm really impressed as well, I have a pretty tough large and open to the kitchen/dining room and these work great and fill up the room with diffuse sound. I have mine set to Bipole because I'm forward of the speakers and it's what their chart recommends and they've done an amazing job back there. Pretty much everything I'd want in a surround.

As as I recently posted, thanks to rscecil007's recommendation, I got the VS Surrounds to go with my RC's. They really helped since one side of my living room has a large opening to the dining room and another to the foyer. Seems like the RC-Rs/VS Surrounds might should be a standard recommendation for this type of room situation. It definitely was worth the money over going with a pair of RC-10s.

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post #38776 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

As as I recently posted, thanks to rscecil007's recommendation, I got the VS Surrounds to go with my RC's. They really helped since one side of my living room has a large opening to the dining room and another to the foyer. Seems like the RC-Rs/VS Surrounds might should be a standard recommendation for this type of room situation. It definitely was worth the money over going with a pair of RC-10s.

Yep, I'm glad you ended up picking them up because they really are worth it. They can also shine in a small room because the reflected sound can make the space sound bigger so I'd just flat out rather have them for surrounds if I could afford it. It's not really a knock on the RC 10's either as those would be better as mains it's just the R's/VS are great at what they do. I've also seen people interested in the energy line just because this is one of the better bipole/dipole surrounds out there or using them in higher end setups.
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post #38777 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baron2 View Post

Any help on this would be great

As Karn mentioned, you have no reason to pair your RC-70s with consecutive or odd to even serial numbers in regards to sonic performance.
Energy do have speakers that are designed to specifically be on the right OR left (like the 22 series), but current Energy speakers don't have this concern.

Users can use the newer towers for a centre channel with fantastic results, left and right placement isn't important at all.

Here are some older manuals from Energy

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post #38778 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Mardukous View Post

As Karn mentioned, you have no reason to pair your RC-70s with consecutive or odd to even serial numbers in regards to sonic performance.
Energy do have speakers that are designed to specifically be on the right OR left (like the 22 series), but current Energy speakers don't have this concern.

Users can use the newer towers for a centre channel with fantastic results, left and right placement isn't important at all.

Thanks Hank

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post #38779 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 02:48 PM
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I just sold my Polk monitor 40's that I was using for surrounds.I wanted to get an all Energy set up. I have RC 50's up front and my center is a RC LCR. My question is, if I purchase the VS surrounds can I put them on 30" stands or do they need to be wall mounted? Originally I was gonna get the RC-10's but now Im not sure. My room is 18x12 with two small openings in the front of the room. Thanks,Tim

-46" SAMSUNG-ENERGY RC-50'S-ENERGY RC-LCR-ENERGY RC-10'S-PSA XV15se-PIONEER ELITE SC-25-OPPO BDP 103D
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post #38780 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tang7969 View Post

I just sold my Polk monitor 40's that I was using for surrounds.I wanted to get an all Energy set up. I have RC 50's up front and my center is a RC LCR. My question is, if I purchase the VS surrounds can I put them on 30" stands or do they need to be wall mounted? Originally I was gonna get the RC-10's but now Im not sure. My room is 18x12 with two small openings in the front of the room. Thanks,Tim

The VS surrounds are meant for the wall. I don't think they can even be put on stands. They're made to be flush with a wall. I have the CR-10 surrounds and they're the same way.

For those looking into getting Energy speakers, or upgrading their current Energy setup, here are some reviews I've written that may help:
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  (haven't updated in a while, but include Energy Take Classic 5.1, RC-10, CF-70, and CC-10)

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post #38781 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 03:06 PM
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The VS surrounds can also be placed on stands. They're 6" deep and would easily fit on a small top plate. You could apply some blu tack to hold the speaker in place.

Yes, they were designed for wall mounting but could easily rest on their own on an end table or stand.

The CR-10 is a different design than the RC-R or VS surround and should be mounted vertically on a wall.

Just look at the speaker and you can tell the VS Surround can easily rest on a flat surface.
http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/it...rround-speaker

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post #38782 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 03:06 PM
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just got an email from my buddy in the states. My VS surrounds are enroute!!! at shipping cost of $130 though OUCH. Not bad for 2 VS surounds though, $510. Hope I don't get reamed on customs.

HT: Yamaha RX-V565 | 3 X Energy Take FPS, 2 X VS Surround, 2 X Take LCR | DIY Subs: SDX12 APR15 & TRIO12 Dual APR 12's | 47" LCD

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Quote:
Originally Posted by tang7969 View Post

My question is, if I purchase the VS surrounds can I put them on 30" stands or do they need to be wall mounted? Originally I was gonna get the RC-10's but now Im not sure. My room is 18x12 with two small openings in the front of the room. Thanks,Tim

Check out the pictures in rscecil007's post.

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post #38784 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 04:26 PM
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Thanks for all your responses. Should I then go with the Rc 10's or get the vs's?

-46" SAMSUNG-ENERGY RC-50'S-ENERGY RC-LCR-ENERGY RC-10'S-PSA XV15se-PIONEER ELITE SC-25-OPPO BDP 103D
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post #38785 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 05:09 PM
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Hello all. I have been coming to this forum since last summer while doing some research to upgrade my speakers. I have a few questions that I would like some clarification on (I have my own answer to these questions but was curious as to what you guys thought). My current 5.1 set up is: two CF-50s, 1 CC-10, 2 CB-10s driven by a Yamaha A1010 receiver and an ESW-C10 sub. My self-proclaimed HT room is 10.5' X 15' X 8' and the right side where a wall should be is an open area that leads to the living/dining room below (basically the "loft area" in the upstairs area of any typical house). I am very happy with my set up and my blu-rays and games sound great, but I have recently gotten the dreaded and feared "upgradeitis" after seeing and listening to my bro's new RC10s and LC-RCR that he got from Vanns. I have also seem to occasionally get what others on this forum call "ear fatigue" with my current setup. After reading/researching anything I can find, I am considering 2 RC-70s, an RC-LCR, 2 RC-10s and after a recent development a Hsu subwoofer at some point in the future. I realize that my room is pretty small and even the setup I have now may be overkill, but over the past 10 years or so of having a few HTIBs setups and a 5.1 speaker system from a company that shall not be named, I just really wanted/like tower speakers and came across a pretty good deal on my current setup. I hope that is sufficient information for my questions, which are: with the online pricing of the RC series at Vanns, do you think I would be able to tell a difference between the speaker sets in my situation that would be worth the price of upgrading? I was also considering just adding some front height speakers to my current set up and calling it a day...so would it be beneficial to adding the 2 additional speakers given the dimensions of my room? I don't think I would be able to tell much of a difference in either case, whether upgrading the set up entirely or just adding some front heights. I thought I was finished with HT stuff but I keep coming back here for the wealth of knowledge that is available. I certainly do appreciate any and all information you guys can provide. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to get all the information out there. Thanks.
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post #38786 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 08:29 PM
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Hello all. .... Sorry for the long post, just wanted to get all the information out there. Thanks.

Try upgrading that sub to something like a medieval beast and you probably will lose all that upgraditis. My 2 cents!

HT: Yamaha RX-V565 | 3 X Energy Take FPS, 2 X VS Surround, 2 X Take LCR | DIY Subs: SDX12 APR15 & TRIO12 Dual APR 12's | 47" LCD

Music: Yamaha RX-V863 | 2 X Energy RC-70 | MA RXw12 Sub

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Car: Sony Xplod HU, Xplod 6X9s, Kenwood 4"s, Alpine 12" Type-S, Rockford Amp,...

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post #38787 of 52456 Old 04-14-2012, 09:22 PM
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Try upgrading that sub to something like a medieval beast and you probably will lose all that upgraditis. My 2 cents!

Yep. If you want improvement for HT usage, you would get a huge improvement out of upgrading the sub to the HSU VTF-3 MK4. The difference would be V E R Y noticeable

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HT: Energy RC-50, RC-LCR, Veritas VS Surrounds | Dual CHT SS 18.1s | Denon AVR-888 | modified Dayton SA1000 | Antimode 8033C
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post #38788 of 52456 Old 04-15-2012, 04:45 AM
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or a rythmik

HT: Yamaha RX-V565 | 3 X Energy Take FPS, 2 X VS Surround, 2 X Take LCR | DIY Subs: SDX12 APR15 & TRIO12 Dual APR 12's | 47" LCD

Music: Yamaha RX-V863 | 2 X Energy RC-70 | MA RXw12 Sub

Bathroom: 2 X Energy Take LCR

Car: Sony Xplod HU, Xplod 6X9s, Kenwood 4"s, Alpine 12" Type-S, Rockford Amp,...

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post #38789 of 52456 Old 04-15-2012, 08:33 AM
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Just thought this was worth mentioning. Ive been using the v6.3s in my setup for a couple months now and the level of sibilance definitely seems to have reduced once the tweeters had a chance to break in. I listen to them in stereo mode at levels of-10db or more and just love them more and more! It used to sound a bit too harsh/sibilant at this high of volume but not anymore. Any others experiencing something similar?
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post #38790 of 52456 Old 04-15-2012, 08:44 AM
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or a rythmik


Or Epik, SVS, or Outlaw Audio. But the OP mentioned HSU

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