Energy Owners Thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 52185 Old 07-29-2006, 02:47 AM
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I have to agree with the seperate amp route. I went listening again today, I'm focusing on the C range, 500 fronts, whilst playing my demo tracks, I noticed it did not sound as sweet as before. They were running from a Denon amp. Before this, it has been Cambridge and Rotel amps. So now I'm thinking, if I get new speakers, new amp too.

One question I do have, if you run a seperate amp from the preouts, is the volume controlled by the preouts, or do you have to adjust the volume on both?
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post #452 of 52185 Old 07-29-2006, 06:14 AM
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Back into subjective separates nonsense land. Do a double blind test and tell me you can hear a difference. The NAD amp is a nice amp (very inefficient though, lots of heat generated by that Holmgren Toroidal transformer) but it isn't necessary to drive the load accurately unless you have a very large room or don't use a subwoofer. It will basically double your power over a typical mid price receiver for the two channels you use it on, that is about 2 decibels of headroom.

Rotel uses basically the same technologies that NAD uses, six of one, half dozen of the other.
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post #453 of 52185 Old 07-29-2006, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cams View Post

is the volume controlled by the preouts, or do you have to adjust the volume on both?

typically, the volume is controlled by the AV receiver main volume function, or from a separate pre-amplifier/processor main volume control.
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post #454 of 52185 Old 07-29-2006, 03:19 PM
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Hi,

Would someone comment on the following setup.

I interested in purchasing the Energy Take LCR (x 3) and Energy Take SAT (2) and using it will my current Velodyne CHT-10 Sub and a Yamaha RXV2600.

My room is strange shaped, which includes the main viewing area, the enterance, dining room and a large opening to the kitchen and small openings to the stairs and a bathroom.

--------
|.........|
|.........-------------------|
-..............plasma........-
|.................................|
| tab...........................|
| le...........coffee.........|
-____.........tbl............-
........|.....c..o..u..c..h...|
..................................|
kitch...........................|
........|...... _____........|
........|......|///////|........|


from the front wall (with the plasma) to the back for the couch is 12'x11'. Total main area (plasma to the back wall) 19'x11'

In a space like this, will these speaker work well?

90% movies/10% music.

My main goal in wall mounting, thin, timbre matched, excellent movie speakers. I currently have Def. Tech BP-8 floor standing. How different will it be going to these little speakers?


Thanks for any help.
Jason
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post #455 of 52185 Old 07-29-2006, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swestbom View Post

Back into subjective separates nonsense land. Do a double blind test and tell me you can hear a difference. The NAD amp is a nice amp (very inefficient though, lots of heat generated by that Holmgren Toroidal transformer) but it isn't necessary to drive the load accurately unless you have a very large room or don't use a subwoofer. It will basically double your power over a typical mid price receiver for the two channels you use it on, that is about 2 decibels of headroom.

Rotel uses basically the same technologies that NAD uses, six of one, half dozen of the other.

When I upgraded from my AV receiver to my Parasound seperates, I noticed a huuuuuuuuge difference! But granted, I was not just going up in watts, but quality also.
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post #456 of 52185 Old 07-29-2006, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonbub View Post

I interested in purchasing the Energy Take LCR (x 3) and Energy Take SAT (2) and using it will my current Velodyne CHT-10 Sub and a Yamaha RXV2600.

In a space like this, will these speaker work well?

yeah...........I think the Energy Take LCR's will work fine. They are very nice sounding speakers, and will provide enough dB level's for your room dimension's.

However, if it were me, I would prefer to have the Take FPS's for front's, along with the Take LCR for center, instead. Or Take FPS's for front-left, center, and front-right. A better match for the RX-V2600. The Take FPS have wider frequency range and greater power-handling up front, and will serve better when listening to music (especially two-channel).

The Take SAT's work fine as surrounds.

Of course the bass response, from the Energy Take series, will [not] match that of your Def Tech floorstanding speakers, as they are more full-range (larger cabinet volume). However, the Energy's will sound sweet! I think you'll be very happy!
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post #457 of 52185 Old 07-30-2006, 09:34 PM
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Thanks WestCoastD,

Will my Velodyne sub be able to make up for the small/limited bass response of the Energy's LCR/FPS?

Jason
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post #458 of 52185 Old 07-31-2006, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonbub View Post

Will my Velodyne sub be able to make up for the small/limited bass response of the Energy's LCR/FPS?

it will, depending on what mode you're listening to. When listening to music in "Pure" mode audio is switched to the 2 front channels exclusively (sub is cut out), a more full-range floorstanding model is nice (the Def Tech BP-8's play down to 30Hz). However, when the LFE is set for BOTH (fronts/sub) you will get the combined response from the fronts and the sub when listening to music in "STRAIGHT" (PCM stereo) mode.

You can even consider using Energy TWR's as front's (they play down to 47Hz, the FPS's play down to 55Hz), and they work great wall-mounted as well.

However, home theater surround modes (Dolby ProLogic, DTS, etc.,...) will sound very nice, when viewing DVD movies or digital cable TV, using either FPS's or TWR's (even using LCR's all the way around).
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post #459 of 52185 Old 07-31-2006, 03:54 PM
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I've just purchased a pair of RC-10's. As of now I just have them sitting on top of my old CV's. Can anybody suggest a nice stand stand in the 30" height range?

Thanks
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post #460 of 52185 Old 07-31-2006, 04:04 PM
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Speaker Stands for RC-10
I asked that same question and WestCoast suggested this
http://www.bello.com/index.php?parti...20&categ_id=43

with good pricing at
http://www.racksandstands.com/Bello-...tml#additional

You are gonna love your 10's..

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post #461 of 52185 Old 07-31-2006, 07:43 PM
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The RC-10's are absolutely amazing... just added a pair of RC-Minis to the rears (center still to come - waiting for stand, also waiting for the subwoofer) and I ran through some of the I, Robot DVD and I am completely impressed what these little speakers can do.
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post #462 of 52185 Old 08-01-2006, 02:02 AM
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I have been talking a to my local hifi store and listening the the speakers and have come up with 3 options.

A RC10 front, RCmini centre and RCmini rears.
B RC50 front, RCmini centre and RCmini rears.
C C500 front, CC100 centre and C100 rears.

I am quite happy with all 3, though the option B is not likely, I think the RC50's are too much for the rest. I aleady have a good sub, Aussie made Richter Thor MkII. Room is 4m X 5.5m, one side wall is open. Amp is Yammy RXV650. 60/40 HT/music.

Which option would you choose?
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post #463 of 52185 Old 08-01-2006, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cams View Post

A RC10 front, RCmini centre and RCmini rears.
B RC50 front, RCmini centre and RCmini rears.
C C500 front, CC100 centre and C100 rears.

Which option would you choose?

Tough decision..........I would also consider (option)-
D RC10 front, RC-LCR centre and RCmini rears.
E RC30 front, RC-LCR centre and RCmini rears.

The C-Series are definitely pretty good especially for the price (the C-500's are awesome, good for music and movies). However, the RC-Series are a significant step up.
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post #464 of 52185 Old 08-01-2006, 03:54 PM
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RC-LCR is out because of it's size, height mainly.
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post #465 of 52185 Old 08-01-2006, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cams View Post

RC-LCR is out because of it's size, height mainly.

oh, I see.........then I would have to consider-

B RC50 front, RCmini centre and RCmini rears. (first-choice)
F RC30 front, RCmini centre and RCmini rears. (second-choice)
A RC10 front, RCmini centre and RCmini rears. (third-choice)

The first choice yield's the greatest frequency range for 2-channel music, and still give you nice home theater surround sound.
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post #466 of 52185 Old 08-02-2006, 05:34 PM
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post #467 of 52185 Old 08-02-2006, 09:44 PM
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I do like the RC50, but thought it may be too much for the mini centre. I am unable to audition the mini for the time being. Hopefully I will be able to home demo the RC50's and 10's soon.

Sounds like the C series is out.
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post #468 of 52185 Old 08-03-2006, 10:47 AM
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Hey all.
Just wanted to update on my quest for an external amp. A recap..Have RC-50 for my fronts and using a Yamaha HTR-5860. I purchased an Adcom 555 from someone locally, Older 2 channel amp but solid as a tank.....Well cared for, not a scratch...200wpc. Hooked up from my pre-outs. The amp has PLENTY of headroom, The RC-50's sound more detailed and full, when any heavy passages are played they sound excellent....not like before, my system seemed to struggle. I have been using "straight" mode for music and it sounds great, needed to tone down my sub, music blends very well. In HT I notice a difference as well, more power to the center/surrounds.....All in all picking up a used amp is a nice way to upgrade if you feel your system is a bit lacking, as I did.
WestCoast... I was impatient! Was gonna hold out for the NAD, but this amp seems to be a great match for the energy's too....and got it for a couple of bills.....couldn't resist....

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post #469 of 52185 Old 08-03-2006, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcel View Post

I purchased an Adcom 555, this amp seems to be a great match for the energy's too....and got it for a couple of bills.....couldn't resist....

great!.............I hear they (Adcom amps) are pretty good, don't have much experience with them myself.
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post #470 of 52185 Old 08-04-2006, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobcel View Post

I have been using "straight" mode for music and it sounds great, needed to tone down my sub, music blends very well. ..

Also, how do RC-50's sound in "PURE" mode (everything by-passed) playing music?
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post #471 of 52185 Old 08-04-2006, 05:57 AM
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Since so many people on these boards seem to live and breath paradigm, I thought this would be a good place to post this...

I went looking for Para Monitor 7's yesterday, and I had an authorized dealer right around the corner from work so I took off lunch to go see why everyone thinks Paradigm is so great. When I got there, all that was left of the paradigms were a bunch of centers and some bookshelves, all at heavy discounts. The dealer has dropped them in favor of the Energy line. I talked to him about it and he didn't have anything bad at all to say about Paradigm, but he felt (he is the owner) that the Energy lineup was built a bit better and came in at the same price point so they are now going with that to fit that tier in what they offer.

So, that said, I am now considering the C-series, starting with C500's up front. I have a few questions though -

I will be running through either an Onkyo 674 or Denon 2307 (once they are released and I can actually see both of them in action, based on specs I am leaning Denon). would either of these recievers allow me to bi-wire? What exactly is the advantage of bi-wiring?

If I do go with energy I will probably go with the C-C100 for the center the C-R100 for sides, and then, I really don't know about the 2 rears, what advantages would using 50's, 100's, or 200's for rears provide? Would 200's be overkill since they are just the surround channels? Would 50's be fine? they are going to be about 6-7 feet back from where I sit.

How are the Energy subs? I like matching, even though I know subs generally can be anything, but if they make a good sub, I might like to keep all my setup from one company. Either that or I am very interested in the cylinder style subs that SVS makes.

And finally, any 360 gamers here? How do your games sound through your setup?

Thanks all.
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post #472 of 52185 Old 08-04-2006, 07:43 AM
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Quote:


how do RC-50's sound in "PURE" mode

Pure and Straight Mode honestly sound pretty much identical,(on my system) I shut down the sub to listen to the difference, with the sub on it just kinda gives it a bit more energy in the lows. I like it better on. Not a big fan of the DSP effects at all, I assume in Pure mode it does not matter that the speakers are set to small.??.. I unfortunately am pretty much stuck with speaker placement until I upgrade the monitor and get rid of "Big Bertha" (the entertainment center) Am anxious to play with placement. They, RC50's, are about 11 feet apart and approx 1 1/2 feet from the back wall.......
PS Just read a previous thread and I don't have my LFE set for both, just sub..I'll have to tweak it and see how they sound....

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post #473 of 52185 Old 08-06-2006, 03:52 PM
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Just got myself a pair of RC-50's for a mainly music and some HT system. Currently I am listening to some pop music and R&B music in stereo mode and the 2 speakers set to large while the speakers are breaking in. The mid and lower end spectrum sounds kinda recessed, not very detailed and not that pronounced, but the highs and the voice I can hear very clearly. The question I want to ask is: Will I hear a significant improvement in sound after the break in period? Will the mids and lower end open up and become more detailed?

Also from reading this thread, I read that there were some issues with the RC-50 and 30's having no midrange sound. How long ago was this issue and did this problem get resolved? Just hoping I didnt get a pair of bad speakers with this problem. Thanks for any inputs.
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post #474 of 52185 Old 08-06-2006, 07:03 PM
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Hey.
I bought a pair about a week and a half ago. Mine were used, gently, and seem to be broken in. The range is very good on these...You need to give them the time to break in. I bought a pair of RC-10's previously and went thru the break in period.....I let them go for about 80hrs, they say 50...but what the heck.I noticed a definite improvement after the break in period. 50's have good midrange as well as terrific highs...give them a bit of time.......

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post #475 of 52185 Old 08-06-2006, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hype62 View Post

Will I hear a significant improvement in sound after the break in period? Will the mids and lower end open up and become more detailed?

yeah........definitely give them some time (like 80 to 100 hours, as I was told by Energy). I've experienced deeper, smoother, bass, and opening-up of mid-range.

What kind of receiver, or amp, are you using?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hype62 View Post

Also from reading this thread, I read that there were some issues with the RC-50 and 30's having no midrange sound. How long ago was this issue and did this problem get resolved? Just hoping I didnt get a pair of bad speakers with this problem. Thanks for any inputs.

Supposedly, early in this year, there were some issues with a [specific] quantity, don't know more than that. However, Energy is a good company and definitely would be on top of anything like this. I would'nt worry about this. Where did you purchase your speakers from?
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post #476 of 52185 Old 08-06-2006, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

What kind of receiver, or amp, are you using?

Thanks for the replies. I am using a HK 635 reciever.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

Where did you purchase your speakers from?

Got the pair as new and unopened on Ebay for a good price, couldnt pass on that deal.

When I first hooked up these speakers to the HK, I immediately notice how nice the tweeters are on these RC-50's. The highs are smooth and detailed, not harsh and not warm, just how I like it. Now I just hope the mid and lower end will open up after the break in. If all goes well, this pair can be a winner for me and replacing the Boson acoustics VR3'S that I am currently using too. Also, I love the look and built quality of these Energy speakers, they look alot more expensive than the VR3's.
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post #477 of 52185 Old 08-07-2006, 12:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shufflefield View Post

I will be running through either an Onkyo 674 or Denon 2307 (once they are released and I can actually see both of them in action, based on specs I am leaning Denon). would either of these recievers allow me to bi-wire? What exactly is the advantage of bi-wiring?.

Bi-wiring is a complex, and controversial, concept. There are many threads that provide several explanations. Essentially bi-wiring involves using two set's of wires per speaker (or four wires per speaker)- one pair connecting to the HI (or tweeter/mid-range) section, the other pair connecting to the LO (or woofer) section, for both speakers (left & right), originating from one set of speaker outputs, respectively (or the typical two pairs of speaker terminals). Supposedly this configuration yield's a potentially cleaner sound quality as the drive frequencies (hi's and low's) have a more separate, and efficient, path. While it does [not] yield any noticeable audible advantage, it does'nt hurt to try.

[Bi-amping] on the otherhand is significantly more (and contoversial as well). Bi-amping involves using two set's of wire per speaker as well, however, each pair is connected to it's own dedicated amplifier, or two amplifier's per speaker- one amplifier for the HI (or tweeter/mid-range) section, the other amplifier for the LO (or woofer) section- for each speaker (a total of 4 amplifier's dedicated to the front speakers). Supposedly this configuration provides for a more efficient operation of the receiver/amplifier(s) and, potentially, a more powerful and cleaner sound. You need to make sure your receiver (or amplifier) is capable or configured for bi-amping (or has "assignable amplifiers"). I've found this method to be useful when using a multi-channel receiver as the amplifier power ratings are not as efficient as a separate amp (typically).

I have two separate systems, one consist's of a Yamaha RX-V2600 receiver, with an Energy C-Series 5.1 configuration- ie. C-300 fronts, C-C100 center, C-200 surrounds, S8.3 sub-woofer (my other system consist's of a Yamaha RX-V1600 receiver with an Energy RC-Series 5.1 configuration). Anyway........I hooked-up my front's using normal, conventional, wiring connection initially and the C-300's sounded nice. I played them this way for several hours (during 100 hour break-in period). Later I re-wired my front's for bi-amping configuration and they [really] came alive, bass was much deeper, and overall more powerful.

Both the Onkyo or Denon receivers are good (I prefer Denon myself). Although the [new] Denon has no spec's listed yet so I am not sure of power ratings and other features, I can only speculate from the typical configurations of most of the other models. I can bet it will have HDMI (2/1), 1080p capability, up-conversion, pre-outs, and maybe assignable amplifiers, etc.,..The Onkyo 674 has decent power, however, it does'nt have assignable amplifier capability, or pre-amp out's. Pre-amp out's will allow you to connect a separate amplifier if you so choose (in the future).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shufflefield View Post

If I do go with energy I will probably go with the C-C100 for the center the C-R100 for sides, and then, I really don't know about the 2 rears, what advantages would using 50's, 100's, or 200's for rears provide? Would 200's be overkill since they are just the surround channels? Would 50's be fine? they are going to be about 6-7 feet back from where I sit..

yeah.........the new C-series are pretty good [for the price], you will like them. The C-500's are great sounding, full-range, floorstanding, speakers that work nice for 2-channel music and as fronts for a full HT surround system, very powerful. I would go with the C-C100 (for center), C-R100's (for sides) and either C-100, or C-200's, for surrounds. The C-200's offer more range, I thought they worked great as surrounds when playing multi-channel music. But the C-100's will work just fine as well. If you're planning on wall-mounting your surrounds then I would tend to go with the smaller size model (ie. C-100) as it's has less "hanging" mass (although you can wall-mount any of the bookshelf models).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shufflefield View Post

How are the Energy subs? I like matching, even though I know subs generally can be anything, but if they make a good sub, I might like to keep all my setup from one company.

yeah...........the Energy subs are great. Either the S8.3, S10.3, S12.3, or even the new RC-sub 10.3 .

Have fun!
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post #478 of 52185 Old 08-09-2006, 08:41 AM
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Good day.

I got myself a set of C-series speakers (they are very nice), but ended up with this problem: the grilles on my C50s keep popping off .

If only they were attached magnetically like the RC series.

Anyone have a solution to this problem?
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post #479 of 52185 Old 08-09-2006, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ofermod View Post

the grilles on my C50s keep popping off. If only they were attached magnetically like the RC series. Anyone have a solution to this problem?

yeah.........I wish Energy included magnets on the [new] C-Series as well. Instead they have a more simple plastic peg w/recessed insert method. It works okay (I thought).

Check to make sure there are no flat washer/spacers on the peg's (on the inside of the grills). These spacers prevent the peg's (on each grill) from sliding completely into place, to the appropriate depth, providing for a more optimal connection to the speaker.

Energy places these spacers on there to allow for space (or a gap) for a layer of protective foam packing material for packing/shipping purposes.

Otherwise, make sure to use enough pressure (not too much) on each corner on the outside of each grill when installing/securing grills. I carefully hold the rear of the speakers and press each (outside) corner on the grill.

Are your grills popping off arbitrarily, by themselves?
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post #480 of 52185 Old 08-09-2006, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

Are your grills popping off arbitrarily, by themselves?

I can squeeze them on pretty far, but they eventually work their way off -- actually, one always works itself off, the other just barely hangs on.

My C-100s have stayed on since I removed the plastic wrap. My C-C50 threatened to do the same, but wisely decided to keep to a very small gap.
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