Energy Owners Thread - Page 1805 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #54121 of 54143 Old 08-24-2015, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parekoy View Post
Hello. How do you guys know between V2.4 and V2.4i? I know you can do swap the cover to make it 2.4i. And there is no sticker on the back thay says which model. What others to look at to make sure if its i or not? Tia

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i model usually (but not always apparently) has a standard one piece grill. Non i model has a 2 piece grill that looks the the woofer is protruding through the cloth. If you called Energy they should be able to decode the serial number to determine if it is the i model or not, but I seem to recall the serial number being on the same sticker that the model number is on. Only other thing I can think of is to remove the woofers and check the model numbers.
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post #54122 of 54143 Old 08-24-2015, 06:31 PM
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I noticed about the grill. But maybe if the seller just used the i grill for non i so that he can make a good profit. Seller told me that there is no sticker at the back of the speakers so there's no way i can confirmed if it is the i or non i. Where is the serial number located? And also how much the price range for those 2.4 and 2.4i now?

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post #54123 of 54143 Old 08-24-2015, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parekoy View Post
I noticed about the grill. But maybe if the seller just used the i grill for non i so that he can make a good profit. Seller told me that there is no sticker at the back of the speakers so there's no way i can confirmed if it is the i or non i. Where is the serial number located? And also how much the price range for those 2.4 and 2.4i now?

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On my 2.3i speakers, the serial and model number are on a sticker on the bottom of the speaker - specifically on the back footpiece that the carpet spike would thread into. As for their value, I would say low end $600, high end $1250. Do you know about the woofer issues on the non-i models and how to check if they are frozen?
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post #54124 of 54143 Old 08-24-2015, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by brendelac View Post
On my 2.3i speakers, the serial and model number are on a sticker on the bottom of the speaker - specifically on the back footpiece that the carpet spike would thread into. As for their value, I would say low end $600, high end $1250. Do you know about the woofer issues on the non-i models and how to check if they are frozen?
That strange why they put it under the speaker. I will put that in mind when i go. When you say high end its the 2.4i right? Nope, can you please give me a clue how to check those dead woofers?

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post #54125 of 54143 Old 08-24-2015, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parekoy View Post
That strange why they put it under the speaker. I will put that in mind when i go. When you say high end its the 2.4i right? Nope, can you please give me a clue how to check those dead woofers?

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Yes, high end would be 2.4i in excellent condition. That's just my opinion, I may be off a bit. To check the woofers, use your finger to gently press on the woofer cone. It should slide freely up back and forth on the phase plug (pointy thing in the middle). If it does not, the woofer is frozen.
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post #54126 of 54143 Old 08-24-2015, 08:39 PM
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Any Energy out there who have "upgraded" to another brand or DIY?

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love the sound from all of my Energy speakers ;
two V2.2i
two V2.1i
two V2.0ci
two V2.0Ri
four V6.2
two V5.2C
two V-Mini
one Take 1 center
four Take 2

I enjoy the sound each setup has given the cost/size of each speaker design, and have had nothing but great experiencing with Energy (both pre and post Klipsch involvement) during warranty claims.

However, my current main theater setup is the V6.2's bi-amped from my Denon AVR-4308, V5.2C, and V2.0Ri's, with two DIY Marty Cubes to handle the lower end. I've found that the V2.2/1i's are just too "bright" for my taste in day-to-day listening/viewing. I'm now in search of more efficient speakers to obtain higher SPL with clear sound. I'm about to pull the trigger on three DIYSG 1099's and am almost certain Volt 10's (or the like) will follow for surround duties. Being the enthusiast I am, the Energy speakers will still be utilized in another room and frequently enjoyed but I'm looking for that "next step up" for my theater.

Have any of you gone a different route? Your thoughts and experiences?
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post #54127 of 54143 Old 08-24-2015, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by spinnin View Post
Just happened to be looking for something else when these popped up:

RC70 Towers $249.00 each

RC-LCR Left Main / Center / Right Main $219.00 each
Haven't been to this thread in quite a while but jeeeeeeezzzz.... those are excellent prices for those speakers!!!! I'm still rocking my RC-10's, 30's, 70's, and LCR. I don't think I'll ever get rid of these speakers, I just love them.

What I really was looking for was another pair of Omnimount 20.0 to wall mount my second set of RC-10's behind me for a set of rear heights. Sadly it looks as though these mounts are unavailable. In the space I'm in now I need them to tilt downward rather far towards my MLP and I don't see any mounts around to match my needs. Is there anything around comparable to those Omnimount 20.0's?
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post #54128 of 54143 Old 08-25-2015, 09:12 AM
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Energy RC50s are fantastic.
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post #54129 of 54143 Old 08-25-2015, 09:26 AM
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Energy RC50s are fantastic.
Yes they are. Had them for five years now, excellent for me.
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post #54130 of 54143 Old 08-25-2015, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by --DANNY-- View Post
Any Energy out there who have "upgraded" to another brand or DIY?

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love the sound from all of my Energy speakers ;
two V2.2i
two V2.1i
two V2.0ci
two V2.0Ri
four V6.2
two V5.2C
two V-Mini
one Take 1 center
four Take 2

I enjoy the sound each setup has given the cost/size of each speaker design, and have had nothing but great experiencing with Energy (both pre and post Klipsch involvement) during warranty claims.

However, my current main theater setup is the V6.2's bi-amped from my Denon AVR-4308, V5.2C, and V2.0Ri's, with two DIY Marty Cubes to handle the lower end. I've found that the V2.2/1i's are just too "bright" for my taste in day-to-day listening/viewing. I'm now in search of more efficient speakers to obtain higher SPL with clear sound. I'm about to pull the trigger on three DIYSG 1099's and am almost certain Volt 10's (or the like) will follow for surround duties. Being the enthusiast I am, the Energy speakers will still be utilized in another room and frequently enjoyed but I'm looking for that "next step up" for my theater.

Have any of you gone a different route? Your thoughts and experiences?

I had owned this speakers and I went to a different route about 1 year ago


C series
2 C-500
1 C-C100
4- C-R100
2-C-200

RC series
1 RC-LCR
2 RC50
2 RC-30
2 RC-70
2 RC-R

Veritas V
1 V5.2 C
2 V6.3
2 V5.1
2 V S

2 Veritas Mini 5.0
8 V Mini
2 V Mini C

sub
8" V8 sub

Now I have Revel Performa3 speakers,The Revel Performa3 to my ears is a more refined and balanced speaker.

Living Room:Panasonic 65"VT60 / Marantz SR7005 / Marantz UD7007 / 2 PSA XS30 / Revel Performa3 F206 / Revel Performa3 C205 / Revel Surrounds / Sonos Connect / Roku3 /Amazon Fire tv / Xbox One / PS4 / HTPC / Darbee 5000 / Sonos Play for bedrooms,kitchen,bathrooms / Master Bedroom: Panasonic 55"VT60 / Sonos Sound Bar / Sonos Sub and Sonos Play Surrounds/Vizio LED in 3 Bedrooms and Dining Room.
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post #54131 of 54143 Old 08-26-2015, 07:39 PM
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stands

is anyone using an all LCR stage? if so, what stands are you using for the L/R? almost all stands have pads that are way to small for the LCR base. tia...

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post #54132 of 54143 Old 08-27-2015, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by thesharkman View Post
is anyone using an all LCR stage? if so, what stands are you using for the L/R? almost all stands have pads that are way to small for the LCR base. tia...

thesharkman
Are you referring to the LCRs being oriented vertically or horizontally?

If vertical, the end of the LCR is 7.5" x 10.25". I personally use the Sanus BF24 stands which have a top plate thats 6.5" x 6.5" for my RC-10's whos base is 6.7" x 10.5" and they work great. I think they would work well for the LCR too as long as you make sure its centered on the stand. I use a small piece of the thin anti-slip pads meant for use under area rugs, and it works very well keeping the speaker from sliding on the stand, and protecting the bottom of the speaker.

These also come in a 31" height, and are quite inexpensive for speaker stands.

Last edited by kgallerie; 08-27-2015 at 07:56 AM.
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post #54133 of 54143 Old Yesterday, 02:09 PM
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I need a little help from those familiar with the RC-R and VS surrounds. I just bought some RC-R surrounds in great shape. My room is only 12.5 feet long and my seating position is about 18 inches off the back wall so my current RVSS surrounds that I'm replacing with the RC-R's are mounted at the top of the wall near the ceiling on either end of the seating (in line with the seating position).

The RC-R's have a bipole/dipole switch and a volume know and no manual. What does the volume know control, where should it be set, and is bipole or dipole better? Before anybody says hang them up and listen to them and decide for myself, I plan on doing that (as soon as I can find some keyhole brackets) but I'd like to have some reference points to start from and I'd like to know how the controls affect the speaker (s).
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post #54134 of 54143 Old Yesterday, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by loknload View Post
I need a little help from those familiar with the RC-R and VS surrounds. I just bought some RC-R surrounds in great shape. My room is only 12.5 feet long and my seating position is about 18 inches off the back wall so my current RVSS surrounds that I'm replacing with the RC-R's are mounted at the top of the wall near the ceiling on either end of the seating (in line with the seating position).

The RC-R's have a bipole/dipole switch and a volume know and no manual. What does the volume know control, where should it be set, and is bipole or dipole better? Before anybody says hang them up and listen to them and decide for myself, I plan on doing that (as soon as I can find some keyhole brackets) but I'd like to have some reference points to start from and I'd like to know how the controls affect the speaker (s).
For a 5.1 setup, ideally the surrounds would be mounted anywhere from directly to the sides to 10-20 degrees behind the seating position (90-110 degree azimuth from centerline). So basically where your RVSS are now is fine, however I wouldn't mount them THAT high, rather put them a couple of feet above ear level rather than all the way up at the ceiling.

Any chance you can continue to use the RVSS as back surrounds and go to 7.1? If so then the RC-R should definitely be directly to the side or even a bit in front since you'd have a pair of speakers covering the rear zone.

In theory you'd use "dipole" mode if directly to the side and "bipole" mode in other situations. In practice it depends on taste, room acoustics, etc. The RVSS are fixed dipole speakers so if you're happy with how they sounded you can continue to use the RC-R's as such.

The volume knob controls the level of the side-firing midrange drivers. At the minimum setting they are off and it turns into a 2-way direct firing speaker (woofer+tweeter). The more the volume is up from there, the more dispersion you will get from the side-firing drivers.

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post #54135 of 54143 Old Yesterday, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post
For a 5.1 setup, ideally the surrounds would be mounted anywhere from directly to the sides to 10-20 degrees behind the seating position (90-110 degree azimuth from centerline). So basically where your RVSS are now is fine, however I wouldn't mount them THAT high, rather put them a couple of feet above ear level rather than all the way up at the ceiling.

Any chance you can continue to use the RVSS as back surrounds and go to 7.1? If so then the RC-R should definitely be directly to the side or even a bit in front since you'd have a pair of speakers covering the rear zone.

In theory you'd use "dipole" mode if directly to the side and "bipole" mode in other situations. In practice it depends on taste, room acoustics, etc. The RVSS are fixed dipole speakers so if you're happy with how they sounded you can continue to use the RC-R's as such.

The volume knob controls the level of the side-firing midrange drivers. At the minimum setting they are off and it turns into a 2-way direct firing speaker (woofer+tweeter). The more the volume is up from there, the more dispersion you will get from the side-firing drivers.
Thanks batpig. The room is really too small for 7.1. I thought about it but the back speakers would be about directly overhead when leaned back in the theater seat. I am going to pick up a Denon 4100 to replace my 3808 and will probably do 5.2.2 with a set of in ceiling top middle speakers just out in front of the seating area. I think if I tried to do any more, it would probably do more harm than good. Unfortunately the surrounds have to stay mounted that high. One side would be no problem but the other side is mounted just above a closet door and can not move down.

Now the issue I'm having is finding suitable brackets to mount them. They still have the 3/8 screws on them but finding a keyhole bracket locally has proven to be pretty much impossible after trips to several hardware stores. I'm a little upset at myself for not checking with the seller prior to buying them whether or not they had the factory mounting brackets with them. I might not have bought them but, then again, they were a good deal for speakers in excellent shape so I don't feel too bad. Anybody have an idea of where to get something to mount these things on my walls?
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post #54136 of 54143 Old Yesterday, 04:29 PM
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Ah, I just went through this recently trying to mount my C-R3's without the bracket (ironically I ended up finding the brackets in a box later but oh well, you benefit).

Does the RC-R still have that big bolt/screw thing that goes into the keyhole slot (visible in the picture below)? Even if it doesn't, you can probably find one that fits at the hardware store.




Then while at the hardware store pick up some half-circle pipe clamps (see photos below for examples). Affix the pipe clamp to the wall securely (preferably a stud, if not use a drywall anchor) through the two holes on either side and then hang the speaker on the bulging "loop" of the pipe clamp with the head of the bolt. Boom. It won't create a lot of torque on the hanging point especially if you have those big rubber bumpers on the bottom of the speaker.


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post #54137 of 54143 Old Yesterday, 05:07 PM
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At the moment i currently have the energy take classic 5.0 in a room that's 15x14, i'm getting a new receiver that has 7.2, (Denon X2100W) so i want to utilize that , is the room i have too small for the 7.1? and if it is doable,could'nt i just pick up another 2 energy RC bookshelf speakers?

I also have a KLH e10 sub.. but my BIC F12 is coming soon
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post #54138 of 54143 Old Yesterday, 05:11 PM
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At the moment i currently have the energy take classic 5.0 in a room that's 15x14, i'm getting a new receiver that has 7.2, (Denon X2100W) so i want to utilize that , is the room i have too small for the 7.1? and if it is doable,could'nt i just pick up another 2 energy RC bookshelf speakers?

I also have a KLH e10 sub.. but my BIC F12 is coming soon
It's not the size of the room it's what you do with it As long as your couch isn't too close to the back wall you can do back surrounds.

Can you mount speakers high up (e.g. on the ceiling)? If so, you could get the replacement model (X2200W) with Dolby Atmos (and eventually DTS:X) and run a 5.1.2 config -- standard 5.1 plus two overhead speakers for immersive audio.

If you replace the two fronts with RC-10 bookshelfs (a great idea BTW, WAAAAY better than the Takes) you need to also budget for a center channel upgrade. The little Take Classic center channel cannot keep up with the RC-10's. But then you could use one pair of Take Classic as surrounds and the other pair as overhead speakers.... or back surrounds if you decide to go with a traditional 7.1 setup.

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post #54139 of 54143 Old Yesterday, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post
Ah, I just went through this recently trying to mount my C-R3's without the bracket (ironically I ended up finding the brackets in a box later but oh well, you benefit).

Does the RC-R still have that big bolt/screw thing that goes into the keyhole slot (visible in the picture below)? Even if it doesn't, you can probably find one that fits at the hardware store.




Then while at the hardware store pick up some half-circle pipe clamps (see photos below for examples). Affix the pipe clamp to the wall securely (preferably a stud, if not use a drywall anchor) through the two holes on either side and then hang the speaker on the bulging "loop" of the pipe clamp with the head of the bolt. Boom. It won't create a lot of torque on the hanging point especially if you have those big rubber bumpers on the bottom of the speaker.

I have the 3/8 screws in the back of the RC-R's, I'm just missing the actual plastic bracket that goes on the wall. I will go to the hardware store and look for the pipe clamps. Thanks for the suggestion.
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post #54140 of 54143 Old Yesterday, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by batpig View Post
It's not the size of the room it's what you do with it As long as your couch isn't too close to the back wall you can do back surrounds.

Can you mount speakers high up (e.g. on the ceiling)? If so, you could get the replacement model (X2200W) with Dolby Atmos (and eventually DTS:X) and run a 5.1.2 config -- standard 5.1 plus two overhead speakers for immersive audio.

If you replace the two fronts with RC-10 bookshelfs (a great idea BTW, WAAAAY better than the Takes) you need to also budget for a center channel upgrade. The little Take Classic center channel cannot keep up with the RC-10's. But then you could use one pair of Take Classic as surrounds and the other pair as overhead speakers.... or back surrounds if you decide to go with a traditional 7.1 setup.
Just passed on a receiver with Atmos,and went for the X2100W,due to me thinking i wouldn't be using Atmos...Typical ! lol

Might look into some of them bookshelf's soon,, my new receiver is due to be delivered tomorrow ( only ordered it this afternoon ), so i'm gonna have a few days of fun getting everything going again
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post #54141 of 54143 Old Yesterday, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kgallerie View Post
Are you referring to the LCRs being oriented vertically or horizontally?

If vertical, the end of the LCR is 7.5" x 10.25". I personally use the Sanus BF24 stands which have a top plate thats 6.5" x 6.5" for my RC-10's whos base is 6.7" x 10.5" and they work great. I think they would work well for the LCR too as long as you make sure its centered on the stand. I use a small piece of the thin anti-slip pads meant for use under area rugs, and it works very well keeping the speaker from sliding on the stand, and protecting the bottom of the speaker.

These also come in a 31" height, and are quite inexpensive for speaker stands.
thanks for the reply.

I have the L and R speakers standing vertically with the C lying horizontally. I actually have the energy stands that were made for the C series (I believe) and the plates are 6 x 6 and was afraid that they would be way too small for the LCRs. I have some rc-10s for the rears; so, I could use the stands for those. i'll take a look at those SANUS stand...

anyone else?

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post #54142 of 54143 Old Today, 05:00 AM
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thanks for the reply.

I have the L and R speakers standing vertically with the C lying horizontally. I actually have the energy stands that were made for the C series (I believe) and the plates are 6 x 6 and was afraid that they would be way too small for the LCRs. I have some rc-10s for the rears; so, I could use the stands for those. i'll take a look at those SANUS stand...

anyone else?

thesharkman
I used these when I had energy veritas V5.2 as my left/right speakers.

http://www.guitarcenter.com/DR-Pro/D...-Stand-Pair.gc
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post #54143 of 54143 Old Today, 04:05 PM
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Heads up for SoCal folk but there are two pairs of V1.8 in gloss black on craigslist. A pair in the OC in what looks like excellent condition for $1500 and a second pair in LA for $975 which looks like it has some dings.

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