Energy Owners Thread - Page 1832 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #54931 of 54939 Unread 08-06-2016, 04:22 PM
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It's time for me to let go my RC LCR. PM me if anyone interested to buy it.

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post #54932 of 54939 Unread 08-07-2016, 09:54 AM
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Hi, An owner of RC30 and RC70, but using Mirage speakers in main HT.

I was considering to setup stereo pair in bedroom. I was going through portable stereo Amps.. like SMSL SA50, or Topping vx3, or Topping TP22 etc. These are rated approx 35-50w per channel at 8ohm. Would they have enough juice to a pair of RC30s or RC70s? Also, most of these come with only L and R output posts.. Any way to connect a powered subwoofer, like Mirage 8"...?

These amps are very portable, well-reviewed, and under $75. Or any other suggestions?

thanks in advance...
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post #54933 of 54939 Unread 08-07-2016, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rajdori View Post
Hi, An owner of RC30 and RC70, but using Mirage speakers in main HT.

I was considering to setup stereo pair in bedroom. I was going through portable stereo Amps.. like SMSL SA50, or Topping vx3, or Topping TP22 etc. These are rated approx 35-50w per channel at 8ohm. Would they have enough juice to a pair of RC30s or RC70s? Also, most of these come with only L and R output posts.. Any way to connect a powered subwoofer, like Mirage 8"...?

These amps are very portable, well-reviewed, and under $75. Or any other suggestions?

thanks in advance...
Most subs have a speaker line level in and out, allowing you to use the crossover from the sub to cut low frequency to the speakers, more importantly allowing you to hook them up with these type of amps.

Personally, I'd go with something closer to 100 wpc, my 50s sound best when at moderate to high volumes and I wouldn't want to be straining my amp to it's limits to get them there. I prefer a full class A/B stereo receiver for a stereo setup as well, and you could get a Sony, Dayton, or Onkyo for reasonable prices.

EDIT: I just realized that portability was a concern. I guess a class T amp would fit the bill better.

Last edited by JP12; 08-07-2016 at 02:03 PM.
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post #54934 of 54939 Unread 08-08-2016, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rajdori View Post
Hi, An owner of RC30 and RC70, but using Mirage speakers in main HT.

I was considering to setup stereo pair in bedroom. I was going through portable stereo Amps.. like SMSL SA50, or Topping vx3, or Topping TP22 etc. These are rated approx 35-50w per channel at 8ohm. Would they have enough juice to a pair of RC30s or RC70s? Also, most of these come with only L and R output posts.. Any way to connect a powered subwoofer, like Mirage 8"...?

These amps are very portable, well-reviewed, and under $75. Or any other suggestions?

thanks in advance...
I have an SMSL SA50 that I use for a small basement setup with some old cambridge soundworks ensemble speakers. Although its rated at 50x2, that rating is at something like 10% distortion. If you look at some of the reviews, it only does something like 15w/channel at a decent distortion level. I'm pulling these number from the top of my head, so don't quote me on them.

That being said, it can drive speakers to pretty loud levels. If you're using your setup in a small room and looking for moderate volume levels, any of the amps you mentioned will do just fine. If you're looking for anything more than that, then I think you should go for something a bit bigger and better.

Another option that is highly regarded and less expensive is the Lepai LP-2020A+. I have one of these and it sounds just as good (if not better) than the SA50. It is slighly less beefy than the SA50, but it certainly puts out some clean sound to a decent volume, and its less than $30 at parts express.
http://www.parts-express.com/lepai-l...ProductDetails

Last edited by kgallerie; 08-08-2016 at 05:30 AM.
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post #54935 of 54939 Unread Yesterday, 12:38 PM
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If someone in SoCal is looking for a big potential bargain, there's a pair of Veritas V2.3 for $200 in northern San Diego county: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/5742891733.html

The ad says that "one speaker is not working according to my son" so I'm assuming there's some stuck woofers going on. It also looks like they were originally black gloss but the side veneer panels have been removed exposing the bare wood beneath (which means you could stain to whatever color you want). So for someone who's willing to rehab them could be an awesome deal if it's only one woofer that's stuck.

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post #54936 of 54939 Unread Yesterday, 02:24 PM
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You will be staining raw mdf. lol My 1st pair of V2.2's had the gloss black veneer come loose in a few spots. It was naked mdf under it so I assume the 2.3's will be the same. But they could easily be veneered with whatever or even painted. The tops don't come off though. They do have rods and nuts that hold them on, but the factory also glues them on so it would be tough to remove without damaging them.
You never know though, maybe Energy did a small run of light maple or some other light veneer finish.
If they were local, I would grab them. Even if it was to part out for a profit.
Good spot Batpig!
I'm loving my setup with the V2.3i's(L&R), V2.4i's(wides), and V2.2i(center)
Don't feel I will ever need to upgrade unless they start to fail at some point.

60" Panasonic Plasma ~ BenQ HT1075 / 92" Screen~Onkyo TX-NR3008(Pre/Pro)
Earthquake Cinenova Grande Amplifier ~ Oppo BDP-103 ~ Xbox One & PS4
Musical Fidelity Tri-Vista Tube DAC ~ Monster Cable Signature Series HTPS7000
Energy Veritas V2.3i (mains)~Veritas V2.4i (Front Wides)~Veritas V2.2i (center)
Energy Veritas V2.1 & CAT Tiburons(Surr)~Subs: 2 FTW-21's/2 UXL-18's~Fp10000q clone/2x4dsp
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post #54937 of 54939 Unread Yesterday, 03:59 PM
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Thanks for the info...

Why do you use the "lesser" speaker as wides vs. L/R mains (V2.3 vs V2.4)?

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post #54938 of 54939 Unread Yesterday, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post
If someone in SoCal is looking for a big potential bargain, there's a pair of Veritas V2.3 for $200 in northern San Diego county: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/ele/5742891733.html

The ad says that "one speaker is not working according to my son" so I'm assuming there's some stuck woofers going on. It also looks like they were originally black gloss but the side veneer panels have been removed exposing the bare wood beneath (which means you could stain to whatever color you want). So for someone who's willing to rehab them could be an awesome deal if it's only one woofer that's stuck.
Check out the pic of the back of the speakers - one of them is missing a jumper plate. Wouldn't that be nice if it were the only problem.

Last edited by brendelac; Yesterday at 07:46 PM.
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post #54939 of 54939 Unread Today, 11:08 AM
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ESW-V10 Troubleshooting

Hey guys, I pulled my ESW-V10 out from basement neglect of around 2 years and hooked it up to an old JVC receiver I have. It was working great as I streamed music from the computer to it. As I was going in and out of the house I noticed that the music seemed flat from the last time I was inside... sure enough the sub wasn't working. The LED stopped lighting up a while ago, so I couldn't use that as a measure on if it was even getting power. The woofer seemed to be moving slightly, but I couldn't tell if it was just vibrating from the music from other speakers. When I turned the main speakers off, it seemed to still be getting signal and the woofer moving very slightly.
On that sub, there's a fuse where the power cord is plugged in. I took that out and had a look and it "seemed" fine. I say seemed because I've seen tube fuses look fine, but are actually blown. I will test that fuse out later, but I'm wondering how to go about troubleshooting this? Is the amp gone? If you scroll back far enough in this thread, you would know that this sub blew up on me within a few days/weeks of owning it, so this is the 2nd one I've had which appears to be having the same issue. I had it replaced instead of repairing at the time - almost exactly 7 years ago now.

I had the sub hooked up with an RCA cable. I've never tried hooking it up through the speaker terminals. I might try that. Is there anything else I can try? I've read about the 9-volt battery to the speaker terminals, but I'm reluctant. I think the woofer is fine. I'll probably take it apart at some point if I can't get anywhere with it. Maybe there's another internal fuse, or some capacitors are blown... anyone have any suggestions?
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