Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 1707 Old 04-06-2008, 05:30 PM
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More pictures of my progress. The first one is of the subs passive crossover, and then ones of the new center speaker with the drivers and hardware mounted.
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post #272 of 1707 Old 04-06-2008, 05:34 PM
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The next ones are of the two stacked, then moved into position with a rear shot being hooked up, and a front shot ready for testing. I'm using Room EQ Wizard to check for the crossover point of around 80 Hz.
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post #273 of 1707 Old 04-07-2008, 08:17 AM
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Looks excellent!

These pics make me wanna grab my toolbox and start building my speakers
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post #274 of 1707 Old 04-10-2008, 04:51 PM
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I was getting ready to start testing the speakers and ran into my first snag. When the sub section was in front of my 65" CRT RP (where the guns are), the convergences were pulled way out of whack. From more that a foot away, the massive magnet on the Vifa woofer effected the set. I needed to find a way to shield it. Vifa offered no solution for the problem. After much searching, I found that Seas made a shielding cup with a bucking magnet that would fit the 120mm magnet on the Vifa woofer. It was available at Madisound and it solved the problem, thankfully. I would have had to shelve the project until I replaced the Toshiba CRT with newer technology. The set is fully tweaked including gray scale, I'm still impressed with the quality of the picture and have not been seeing anything new at that size that has impressed me more to upgrade. Here are a few photos showing the shielding.
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post #275 of 1707 Old 04-12-2008, 03:45 AM
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Hello all, I join the ranks of Time Window fans happy to have stumbled across this cyberspot. I thoroughly enjoyed reading all the historical threads. Mr Hauser: your can-do spirit is inspiring!

History: one of my college roomies bought a new pair of TW-1 in 1980 or 1981. He had a decent Pioneer amp backing them, and we were totally spoiled in that house. It seemed like crazy money for a college student at the time, but he had a good job and could afford them.

Present: I recently replaced every component in my system. I use it mostly for home theater, but also for some music, and increasingly more for music with video, either via Comcast MHD channel (Music in High Definition), or DVD. I currently piggyback the sub onto my A-L/R TW-1 connections. I have been experimenting a lot with different settings: stereo w/sub, stereo alone, direct line on the receiver, full surround in different receiver modes, etc.. Different inputs seem to benefit from different settings.

I’m quite pleased with the hodge-podge system. It’s about to get an upgrade, as I just closed a deal on a pair of TW-3. I’m not sure what I’ll do with the TW-1 yet. I don’t really have a situation at the moment that supports them for surrounds, but I anticipate having a space that would within the next 5 years or so. Maybe I’ll just hold onto them for later. My receiver is 7.1, but I’m only using 5.1. I’m working on getting a pair of TW-7 (not easy). Would love to have a 7.1 system with TW-7 in the front, TW-3 on the sides, and TW-1 in the rear. I also just bought a pair of DCM CX-17s, but haven’t hatched a specific purpose for them yet. Maybe I can work in a 7.1 system with them for awhile…

My latest fun is experimenting with the new Media Center Extender technology, where your home computer serves up the media. We’re finally getting to the All Things, All Places, All The Time scenario. I love having my family photos on slideshow on my bigscreen with music, or being able to pull up any of our family videos without futzing with a tape or DVD.


Frontside: DCM TW-1 recently purchased off eBay (soon TW-3)
Center: Vienna Acoustics Theatro
Backside: Bose Acoustimass-5 (passive sub with two dual-cubes)
Sub: Velodyne F-1200 Servo 12”
Video: Samsung HL-T6189S 61" 1080P LED DLP w/3 HDMI 1.3 inputs
AV: Onkyo TX-SR805 7.1 w/3 HDMI 1.3 inputs
BRD: Sony PS3 80GB w/HDMI 1.3
Game: Xbox 360 Elite w/HDMI & 120GB HD
Cable: Motorola Comcast Dual-Tuner HD-DVR w/HDMI
Power: Monster rack system (can't recall model)
HTPC: Homebuild AMD Dual-Core w/DVICO FusionHDTV Cool 7 ATSC/DVR Card & 3TB HD
Media Center Extenders: Linksys DMA-2100 w/Wireless-N, MS Xbox 360 Elites (2)
Network: Linksys Wireless-N Gigabit Router
Phone: Linksys Wireless CIT400 Skype Devices (2)
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post #276 of 1707 Old 04-12-2008, 10:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

Not that I'm aware of. Where did you hear the rumor?

From another DCM enthusiast, no one who participates on AVS. He had heard a rumor and asked me because he has read this thread and I am the original poster. PM me if you want to know who.

Wishful thinking I guess.

I just moved my Sevens to my big theater main L & R last night. I wish I had two more pairs for my rear and side channels. That would be a sweet set up.

One of the few. DCM Time Window Seven owners.
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post #277 of 1707 Old 04-12-2008, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

I was getting ready to start testing the speakers and ran into my first snag. When the sub section was in front of my 65" CRT RP (where the guns are), the convergences were pulled way out of whack. From more that a foot away, the massive magnet on the Vifa woofer effected the set. I needed to find a way to shield it. Vifa offered no solution for the problem. After much searching, I found that Seas made a shielding cup with a bucking magnet that would fit the 120mm magnet on the Vifa woofer. It was available at Madisound and it solved the problem, thankfully. I would have had to shelve the project until I replaced the Toshiba CRT with newer technology. The set is fully tweaked including gray scale, I'm still impressed with the quality of the picture and have not been seeing anything new at that size that has impressed me more to upgrade. Here are a few photos showing the shielding.

Magnetic interference didn't even cross my mind. I had my Sevens on either side of my Mitsubishi CRT, really close. I guess there was enough distance on the sides to keep the magnets from being a problem. I'm happy to hear that you found a solution.

One of the few. DCM Time Window Seven owners.
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post #278 of 1707 Old 04-12-2008, 10:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johneed View Post

I also just bought a pair of DCM CX-17s, but haven't hatched a specific purpose for them yet. Maybe I can work in a 7.1 system with them for awhile

Hey John. Try your CX 17s in place of the Bose. You'll get a closer tonal match. Good luck in your search for a pair of Sevens. It took me several years.

One of the few. DCM Time Window Seven owners.
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post #279 of 1707 Old 04-12-2008, 10:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Jamie, any plans to bi-amp that beast?

One of the few. DCM Time Window Seven owners.
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post #280 of 1707 Old 04-13-2008, 08:10 PM
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Dang! My TW-3 deal just fell through. The guy actually had TW-1, not TW-3. Oh well. I have a guy willing to sell me his TW-7, but he is asking $1,500, and my funds are too depleted from all the upgrades to swing that right now...
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post #281 of 1707 Old 04-20-2008, 06:01 PM
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I thought you guys might be interested in some frequency response measurements from the TimeWindow 3 with the different knob settings so here you go.

Here is a near-field measurement of the direct (inner) radiating drivers.



Here's the same thing with a rough port response added.




Here's what happens when you move the 'Tweeter Level' knob from min to max. It has the same effect on the outermost (indirect) drivers as well.



Here are the outermost drivers with the Mid frequency distribution knob turned from 'narrow' to 'wide' (with the high frequency distribution kept narrow.)



Finally, here is the outermost drivers with the High frequency distribution knob turned from 'narrow' to 'wide' (again, with the mid freq dist. kept at narrow.)

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post #282 of 1707 Old 04-23-2008, 07:10 PM
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Hi,

I have a never used, unopened box TW3 Left unit.
I've owned this for several years, hoping to one day find a match.
If you can find a Right unit, I'd be willing to sell you my Left.

Rob
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post #283 of 1707 Old 04-24-2008, 08:51 PM
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I might be interested in buying a single TW3, depending on what you're looking to get for it.

Let me know. You can email me directly at john dot hoffman at comcast dot net.

Thanks!
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post #284 of 1707 Old 04-27-2008, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

I talked to Steve on your TF-2000. The information you posted is basically correct. Here are a few notes he gave me. Power handling would be for each speaker. They were a low sensitivity/high impedance (8 ohms nom.) design that could take a lot of power. The production would have been between 200 to 1,000 pairs. He remembers that a lot were ship to Canada. The serial numbers started at 000234 so your set would be early production. Here's a copy of the Owner's manual. I hope this helps.

Thanks for the additional info. Didn't take long to find they weren't very sensitive, my Sansui 9090 barely "tickled" them. Which is what led my on my quest for more info. I'd found that manual before. Unfortunately, its missing the crucial last page "spec's and technical information"
They have great sound and super tight bass, considering they're in a basement. But what I'd like out of them is tight bass that I can feel. Do I just simply need to give 'em more clean power? I was thinking of a adcom 555 or a Halfer 500 to run just them alone. You think I'm heading in the right direction? Brian
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post #285 of 1707 Old 04-27-2008, 02:25 PM
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If I remember right, Steve said that they worked exceptionally well with Bryston amps.
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post #286 of 1707 Old 04-27-2008, 07:11 PM
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I remember a lot of people saying the TimeFrame series speakers were generally bass shy with great imaging. You might want to get a sub to go along with them.
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post #287 of 1707 Old 04-29-2008, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by formfactor View Post

I remember a lot of people saying the TimeFrame series speakers were generally bass shy with great imaging. You might want to get a sub to go along with them.

Kinda depends on which ones you have and how you set them up.
tf250's are a little bit bass shy indeed (although they still sound really full).
With tf6.0's or tf8.0's there is no lack of bass at all, especially when you put them closer to the back wall. That makes a lot of difference.
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post #288 of 1707 Old 04-30-2008, 07:47 PM
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I thought the TF6.0 , 8.0, and 10.0 speakers were a different design than the TF-250/1000s. They looked more like traditional speakers than the infinite baffle type the 250 and 1000s were.
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post #289 of 1707 Old 05-01-2008, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

If I remember right, Steve said that they worked exceptionally well with Bryston amps.

I'm sure about any speaker sounds better when powered by Bryston.
But those are WAY out of my price range. That's why I'm considering a pro audio amp. I've read many posts of owners of the higher-end TF's (700, 1000) that report lots of tight bass. And my TF-2000's have an extra bass driver over those models. I suspect my problem is mostly from the concrete basement they're in. I figure I just need to push those drivers a little harder. I've read once you get past 100wpc you need to double that to just achieve 3db's more sound. Since even used 300+wpc home audio amps cost more than my car, I'm thinking about giving a 300+wpc pro amp a try. I know the sound is no where near audiophile but I'm not that picky. I know many AVS guys use 'em for subs, but I'd like to hear from those who use them for full range duty. What brand & model number do you like?
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post #290 of 1707 Old 05-02-2008, 02:38 AM
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Brian44, I would look into Outlaw Audio amps. There an exceptional value new and better yet used if you can find them on Ebay. I use 7 M-200 mono block amplifiers that are rated at 200/300 watts into 8/4ohms. They also make a series of multi channel amps. I you want to look at pro amps, I would check out at the Behringer EuroPower series. I use the EP1500, which is a two-channel amp rated at 280/450/700 watts into 8/4/2ohms to drive my dual SVS CS+ subs. There is no shortage of power there. The only drawback with any pro amp is the fan noise. The Behringer fan can easily be replaced with a good quality low dB computer cooling fan. You can do a search for more information on the modification.
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post #291 of 1707 Old 05-06-2008, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by formfactor View Post

I thought the TF6.0 , 8.0, and 10.0 speakers were a different design than the TF-250/1000s. They looked more like traditional speakers than the infinite baffle type the 250 and 1000s were.

Technically they are pretty much identical. Same drivers, same crossovers.
Although the 6.0, 8.0 and 10.0's have their port at the back.. oh well
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post #292 of 1707 Old 05-09-2008, 04:48 PM
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Just an update on my project. I used Room EQ Wizard with a Behringer ECM800 mic for measurements. The best results based on the frequency response is with the port shortened to 3 as opposed to 7, the cabinet completely (loosely) filled with stuffing, the highpass filter cap was reduced to the Solen 130 uf with a 1uf bypass, and the 8 ohm variable resistor in parallel with the high pass filter for the midrange drive set at 8 ohms (Center speaker cabinet only, no mods to the sub cabinet or crossover).

The first picture is of the nearfield (1/4) measurements. The blue line is the sub port, gold is the sub driver, and silver is the tweeter/midrange coax driver.

The next one is the measurements from the main chair approximately 8' back. The dark blue is the sub only and the light blue is the tweeter/midrange only.


The last one is from the same position comparing the response of the right and left TW7s that were recorded separately and than averaged (red) against the response of the new center/sub combination.


All measurements have a 1/3 octave smoothing applied, no EQ. The speakers are now disassembled and getting ready for paint.
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post #293 of 1707 Old 05-26-2008, 03:53 PM
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Where or how do get a replacement for my speakers? CX-17 the driver 6.5 can somebody help please thanks.
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post #294 of 1707 Old 05-27-2008, 07:17 AM
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Just mail DCM, they have a bunch of replacement units in stock.
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post #295 of 1707 Old 06-07-2008, 10:25 AM
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Great forum! I have found the right spot, very informative..

I fell under the spell of the TW's at Listen Up in Denver, in the 70's.
No chance of owning them.
Now I have 1A's that I brought back from the dead, (look and sound great) and just got some TW3's.

I hooked them up and immediately noticed the left one, was not working correctly.
I took it apart and found the tweeter was smashed and pushed into the 6 inch woofer.
One of the three arms that hold it was completely snapped and the other supports were bent holding the tweeter against the cone so it couldn't move.
I bent it all back into shape, glued it up but it still does not sound quite right.
Physically it looks pretty good.
I need to do some more testing but had a few questions.

Does anyone have an owners/service manual?
How do you calibrate the speakers? Could that be the problem?
Is there a good replacement, if need be?

It looks like they had a pretty good life until the shipping, issue.
Thanks in advance and happy listening.
Doug
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post #296 of 1707 Old 06-11-2008, 11:04 AM
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Quote:


Does anyone have an owners/service manual?
How do you calibrate the speakers? Could that be the problem?
Is there a good replacement, if need be?

Calibration was done at the factory with the specific drivers in the speakers. As far as I've heard, DCM does not stock any replacement TW3 drivers. They were recommending a tweeter as a drop in replacement at one point but it was a match for fit only and not for sound.

Do you have any pictures of the damage so we can see what can/could be saved?
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post #297 of 1707 Old 06-11-2008, 06:17 PM
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It is hard to see the woofer, but there was no movement to the cone at all, until I bent the tweeter out from it. Based on the sound, I may need a 6 inch woofer, tweeter and an "arm" that holds the tweeter. I can make the arm if I can't find one.
thanks
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post #298 of 1707 Old 06-24-2008, 05:23 PM
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I have not posted in awhile on my project so I thought I should show it's progress. The cabinets were primered; wet sanded, painted with black base/clear topcoat and wet sanded with 2000 grit paper. Here is a shot of the top cabinet ready to be wheeled out to a mirrored piano black finish. The front baffles are painted satin black as are the rear one. The grills are finished except for covering the front with cloth. Here are a couple of shots of the drivers and misc. components.
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post #299 of 1707 Old 06-28-2008, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLMDCM View Post

It is hard to see the woofer, but there was no movement to the cone at all, until I bent the tweeter out from it. Based on the sound, I may need a 6 inch woofer, tweeter and an "arm" that holds the tweeter. I can make the arm if I can't find one.
thanks

What do you hear from them and what makes you think they're damaged?

The first thing I'd do is check if both the tweeter and woofer are bad or just one or the other. Try disconnecting the woofer and hearing what the tweeter sounds like by itself on that side. Compare it to the tweeter on the other side. Make sure the knobs on the back are all set to wide and the tweeter level is max.

Then I'd try to find out if it's the driver that's the problem or the crossover. The crossover is pretty fragile during shipping because of the large 'mass' of inductors and capacitors that is glued with hot melt glue. This tends to come loose during shipping causing the connections to break. Do you have any pictures of the crossover?

Quote:


I have not posted in awhile on my project so I thought I should show it's progress. The cabinets were primered; wet sanded, painted with black base/clear topcoat and wet sanded with 2000 grit paper. Here is a shot of the top cabinet ready to be wheeled out to a mirrored piano black finish. The front baffles are painted satin black as are the rear one. The grills are finished except for covering the front with cloth. Here are a couple of shots of the drivers and misc. components.

Looks great jamie. Did you spray the cabinet with canned paint or do you have a spray gun and compressor?
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post #300 of 1707 Old 06-28-2008, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
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Looks great jamie. Did you spray the cabinet with canned paint or do you have a spray gun and compressor?

They were shot with a gun and compressor. The materials are all PPG automotive paint for a local body shop. My brother actually does the spraying, I do all the prep and sanding. He will do the wheeling of the final finish; I just hold the parts. The front and rear baffles are done spray bombs.
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