Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 22 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 2Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #631 of 1708 Old 08-27-2010, 05:55 PM
Member
 
DCMlover's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

You got it right, it was from the 1956 movie Forbidden Planet. You mentioned book though not movie. The book (actually the play) that the movie was loosely based on was The Tempest by William Shakespeare that was written about 1610-11. Now doing the math you would have to be 380 years old!

See what happens when I read to quick on a phone! The movie sounds good. Never saw it. I was born in th Era of disco!
DCMlover is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #632 of 1708 Old 08-27-2010, 05:57 PM
Member
 
DCMlover's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

DCM used Vifa drivers, particularly tweeters, in most of the earlier speakers and in the TimeWindow 1a and Three's into the nineties (end of production). They were mostly modified. The woofers (Vifa M22-WR-09-06) used in the TW7's were one of the few off the shelf (unmodified) drivers they used.

anyone ever use Tang-Band woofers? I heard they can be quite good.
DCMlover is offline  
post #633 of 1708 Old 10-23-2010, 11:02 AM
Member
 
ssouci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I have some DCM TF-500 speakers, and am hoping to rebuild the crossovers while I'm replacing the grill cloth

does anyone have a parts list and/or schematic for the crossover?

I took a look, but the crossovers and most of the caps are all glued in place, so I will have to first rip these apart to even determine component values (then be without my speakers for a while!)

also, is it worth replacing the caps in these since it will be a chore to remove them since everything is glued into place? will I realistically hear any difference? (I bought these speakers in the lats 1980s, so they are over 20 years old, yikes)

any other recommendations appreciated

I've attached some photos

thanks!
LL
LL
LL
ssouci is offline  
post #634 of 1708 Old 10-23-2010, 01:25 PM
Senior Member
 
Jamie Hauser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
You only need to change the electrolytics (the gray ones). You don’t need a schematic for the crossover,
the values are clearly marked as 47uf 100volt N.P. (non-polar). These should be your best replacements for electrolytics http://www.erseaudio.com/s.nl/it.A/i...5&category=833 . Just use a hairdryer or heat gun to soften the hot glue. I would think you should hear a difference.
Jamie Hauser is offline  
post #635 of 1708 Old 10-24-2010, 11:23 AM
Member
 
ssouci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Jamie:

thanks for the reply!... sorry, but I have some further questions

1) what role do the two 47uF electrolytic caps serve in this circuit? (I don't really understand crossover circuits)

2) why do the electrolytic caps only need to be replaced, but not the others?... I think the other orange caps are mylar(?), and wouldn't putting in better ones improve the sound?

3) could this pair of 47uF caps be replaced with a single cap to simplify things?
(of different value)

4) recently, I have noticed an intermittent problem from my left tweeter at modest-to-higher volumes... once in a while, I notice a static or crackling sound along with singers' voices... almost as if the voices are "breaking up" a bit (or the tweeter is!)... 99% of the time, the tweeter sounds just fine... could this be related to the aforementioned 47uF electrolytic caps? could it be the tweeter itself starting to fail?... PS: it's an original Vifa tweeter

thx!
ssouci is offline  
post #636 of 1708 Old 10-24-2010, 07:22 PM
Senior Member
 
Jamie Hauser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssouci View Post

Jamie:

thanks for the reply!... sorry, but I have some further questions

1) what role do the two 47uF electrolytic caps serve in this circuit? (I don't really understand crossover circuits)

2) why do the electrolytic caps only need to be replaced, but not the others?... I think the other orange caps are mylar(?), and wouldn't putting in better ones improve the sound?

3) could this pair of 47uF caps be replaced with a single cap to simplify things?
(of different value)

4) recently, I have noticed an intermittent problem from my left tweeter at modest-to-higher volumes... once in a while, I notice a static or crackling sound along with singers' voices... almost as if the voices are "breaking up" a bit (or the tweeter is!)... 99% of the time, the tweeter sounds just fine... could this be related to the aforementioned 47uF electrolytic caps? could it be the tweeter itself starting to fail?... PS: it's an original Vifa tweeter

thx!

I don't have a copy of the schematic, but from looking at the photo and comparing different schematics from the various patents I will make some educated guesses.

1) The two 47uF electrolytic caps should be part of the tweeter circuit, possible the series resonant circuit if they are tied to the inductor next to them and go to ground.
2) Electrolytic caps usually dry out and their values change. Mylar (the orange/red caps) normally don't go bad. You could replace the high pass filter Mylar cap (it could be the one in the middle of your board with a value around 3uF) with a higher quality, same value, polypropylene one.
3) I would just replace them as is. If they are run in parallel, you could add their values and put in just one but I don't see an advantage with your board layout.
4) With the 47uF electrolytic cap being in the tweeter circuit, both could be a possibility. Replace the caps and find out.
Jamie Hauser is offline  
post #637 of 1708 Old 10-29-2010, 01:06 PM
Newbie
 
papadoc1987's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Jamie, somewhere on this or another link, I think I read you suggesting using a Timepiece as the center channel. All the talk here (except home made specials beyond my skills) is the CX 17. Your thoughts?
papadoc1987 is offline  
post #638 of 1708 Old 10-29-2010, 07:17 PM
Senior Member
 
Jamie Hauser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by papadoc1987 View Post

Jamie, somewhere on this or another link, I think I read you suggesting using a Timepiece as the center channel. All the talk here (except home made specials beyond my skills) is the CX 17. Your thoughts?

It's possible, but I don't remember every recommending the TimePiece as a center channel speaker. The three that I recommended where the SurroundScape Center, CX-17, or the CX-center, in that order. The SurroundScape and CX-center were specifically designed as center channel speakers. The CX-17's were used in pairs as bookshelf speakers, but because they were a coaxial design, they could be turned on their side and were also marketed as a center channel speaker. They all used the same drivers and would match with the later series TimeFrames and SurroundScape TimeWindows. The TimeWindows, TW1a's, and TW3's used different tweeters, midrange/woofers. The TimePiece would be closer as a voice match but because it's not a coaxial design you would have to use it upright.
Jamie Hauser is offline  
post #639 of 1708 Old 11-01-2010, 09:53 AM
Member
 
ssouci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I'm trying to remove the wood top-caps from my TF-500s...

tried placing a wood block underneath the protruding edge and hitting with a hammer (one side at a time)... no go! those caps seem pretty stuck on, and I'm afraid to hit much harder in case I break something... any chance those "prong" connectors get stuck over time? (I'm not sure what they look like or are made of)

is there another method I can use, like perhaps hammering a thin metal wedge or chisel in between the top cap and the main speaker body?

can anyone recommend a tricky method that won't destroy my speakers or the caps?

!!!!! -- is there a chance the top cap CANNOT be knocked off, and is actually bolted on? (see the first post in this thread: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/sho...d.php?t=302057... seems like a very similar speaker)

thanks!
ssouci is offline  
post #640 of 1708 Old 11-06-2010, 10:33 PM
Newbie
 
brownray47's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Queen Creek, Arizona
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Good evening! Stumbled onto your blog on DCM speakers. I am the original owner of a pair of DCM TimeFrame v.10.0s. Currently they are wrapped in plastic in my garage here in Queen Creek Arizona. Bought them from Incredible Universe (was owned by Radio Shack) which is now Fry's Electronics in either 1996 or 1997. They weren't cheap in those days but DCM is not very highly thought of now, just a cheap speaker. Are there just a few people following the original DCM speakers or is there a lot of you? I was thinking of selling them because they are just a waste in the garage. What would be a good price for them? Thanks and have a great holiday season.
brownray47 is offline  
post #641 of 1708 Old 11-07-2010, 12:07 AM
AVS Special Member
 
benclement11's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 1,295
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Did this guy design the DCM6 and 6C? I bought these in 1998 or 1999. Was DCM bought by MTX already? Has anyone heard the new DCM speakers?

Panasonic P60ST50-Yamaha RX-V467 receiver-Sony PS3-Velodyne SMS-1-Canton 430 mains, 455 center and 402 surrounds-Rythmik FV15HP subwoofer- Pro-ject Debut III turntable- I also have a pair of Mark K's DIY design, the ER18DXT's
.
My humble entertainment room
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1417652/midwest...
benclement11 is offline  
post #642 of 1708 Old 12-09-2010, 05:46 AM
 
Jamespblues2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by benclement11 View Post
Did this guy design the DCM6 and 6C? I bought these in 1998 or 1999. Was DCM bought by MTX already? Has anyone heard the new DCM speakers?
DCM was bought out I believe in 1997 or 1998 by Mitek which is (MTX,Esoteric,Altas Sound,Streetwires,Soundolier,Musica and now DCM) Steve stayed with the company as CEO/Design I believe until 1999. I think the last thing he made was the VLS system which was like a Sound Bar back then. The new DCM/Mitek speakers are not that bad and are better then most new brand speakers you can buy at like Bestbuy and give a Ten year warranty so that tells you a lot. The only speaker they make that is a audiophiles speaker is the TFE200 and is the only speaker at sound good too the old DCM company. I think the old TF,TFv and TW's are still better in some ways then the new DCM TFE200's but the TFE200's are a great speaker and you should listen too a pair. The price is fair for them at $1,000 a pair and with a 10 year warranty and 30 day risk free return. They come in Black ash and dark cherry. Old DCM owners got them so that tells you a lot about them too. For your DCM6 and DCM6c I don't think Steve was a part of that project but I own DCM6 speakers too and they are not bad at all but the old TF,TFv and TW's make them sound like junk. I hope these helped.
Jamespblues2 is offline  
post #643 of 1708 Old 01-05-2011, 09:52 AM
Member
 
triple_dre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Good to see this thread is still somewhat alive ^^
I recently stumbled across a pair of cheap KX10's, I'm pretty sure that aside from those horn-loaded tweeters (are those piezo??) they use the same 6,5 inch drivers as CX and TF series, and the same 10" woofer as TF V10.0's.
Can anyone confirm this?

I'd like to build a set of TF V10.0 clones out of them!
triple_dre is offline  
post #644 of 1708 Old 01-05-2011, 06:16 PM
Member
 
DCMlover's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
JamesPBlues knows more than anyone other than Steve E. The 6.5 is the same I think, so is the 10". The horn isn't. However, get the cx-17. It has the tweet and 6.5. You will need 3 tweets per speaker.
DCMlover is offline  
post #645 of 1708 Old 01-06-2011, 03:01 AM
Member
 
triple_dre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DCMlover View Post

JamesPBlues knows more than anyone other than Steve E. The 6.5 is the same I think, so is the 10". The horn isn't. However, get the cx-17. It has the tweet and 6.5. You will need 3 tweets per speaker.

Cool, that's what I thought.
I already have a pair of CX17, plus a bunch of homeless tweeters and 6,5inch drivers.
I also have a pair of TW7 tweeters, and plan on using those
triple_dre is offline  
post #646 of 1708 Old 01-06-2011, 07:21 PM
Member
 
DCMlover's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
If you want to build me one, I will test it out for you and compare to to my 10.0's
DCMlover is offline  
post #647 of 1708 Old 01-07-2011, 04:55 PM
TW1
Member
 
TW1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Here are a couple links to Siegfried challenge with Steve Eberbach in one of the photos.
The speaker by Gary Eickmeir is kind of like a 4 sided time window .It won the competition even against the wave guide speaker that are so popular. Jamie any chance you where at the meeting and did you get to participate in the challenge?

http://home.provide.net/~djcarlst/20100313.htm
http://home.provide.net/~djcarlst/SLReport10.05.pdf
TW1 is offline  
post #648 of 1708 Old 01-07-2011, 06:31 PM
Senior Member
 
Jamie Hauser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by TW1 View Post
Here are a couple links to Siegfried challenge with Steve Eberbach in one of the photos.
The speaker by Gary Eickmeir is kind of like a 4 sided time window .It won the competition even against the wave guide speaker that are so popular. Jamie any chance you where at the meeting and did you get to participate in the challenge?

http://home.provide.net/~djcarlst/20100313.htm
http://home.provide.net/~djcarlst/SLReport10.05.pdf
No, I was not there. But after looking at the report, I'm curious on the setup. If I were auditioning a speaker such as Eickmeier's, I would want a better stand than what looks like a folding table. Also I would question the effect would be having a nice reflective marble slab of a table directly in front of the listening area. The reference speakers look like Behringer B2030A Active Studio Monitors, which are designed for nearfield monitoring applications. Why they decided to compare them to the Orion's and Eickmeier's is also interesting.
Jamie Hauser is offline  
post #649 of 1708 Old 01-07-2011, 07:16 PM
TW1
Member
 
TW1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I agree about the set up. This thread on diyAudio is on the challenge but they seam more focus on the Behringer speaker than Eickmeirs.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...nger-what.html
TW1 is offline  
post #650 of 1708 Old 01-07-2011, 09:09 PM
Senior Member
 
Jamie Hauser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by TW1 View Post

I agree about the set up. This thread on diyAudio is on the challenge but they seam more focus on the Behringer speaker than Eickmeirs.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...nger-what.html

Nice find on the link. For those of you who don’t feel like reading the whole thread, I think the response by Earl Geddes (no lightweight by any means) sums it up for me.


“FYI

I looked at the testing protocal when Dave Clark asked me to participate. I did not like how the test was being performed because the assumption of "recreating a concert hall" was assumed and the questions and ratings were done under this assumption. I do not agree with this assumption as the "final criteria", so I declined to participate.

I later discussed the results with Dave, and after listening to his analysis, I said "Well then basically the results were null - statistically insignficant" and he responded, "Well basically, yea." The individual variance was greater than the speaker to speaker variance under the test protocal performed.

Some people "prefered" one speaker and some people "prefered" another, nothing new there. Accuracy of the reproduction was not given any weighting at all and was not even asked about. It was all "preference" under specific recordings where the criteria was "a realistic impression of being in a concert hall".

The measurements of the Berhinger speaker were pretty incredible for such a cheap speaker. As to how it sounds? Well are we talking "preference" or "accuracy". The Orions were not "prefered" by this audience, but then again, they seemed to like the Eichmiers - at least for a "concert hall effect". Go figure.
__________________
Earl Geddes Gedlee Website
Read about the highly acclaimed Geddes loudspeakers “
Jamie Hauser is offline  
post #651 of 1708 Old 01-22-2011, 11:18 AM
Member
 
ssouci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
hello!

I have a buzzing tweeter on one of my Timeframe TF-500 speakers

buzzing shows up at modest-to-higher volumes, but only at certain frequencies

affected frequency range is to be approx 250-400 Hz (which unfortunately affects voices, piano, etc.)

what would be the most likely cause of this?:
- something physically with the tweeter itself (voice coil, rip/tear, etc.)?
- the add-on diffuser lens?
- the crossover?

note: this speaker uses Vifa D19TD-07 3/4" poly dome tweeters

unless I can physically repair the tweeter myself, I assume I will need to replace it

does anyone have lead on an original D19TD-07 I can buy? if not, what is an equivalent or better drop-in replacement? (I really want to avoid any physical modifications to put in a new one)

searching the web, I can find a Vifa D19TD-*05*, but I'm not sure if that's a suitable equivalent to the 07... eg:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-500

any help on how I should further diagnose (or repair) would be hugely appreciated!... I'm about to re-grill, re-cap, and re-paint my TF-500s (which I really like and have owned since the late 1980s)

PS: I'm located in Vancouver, Canada

thx!
-- Paul
ssouci is offline  
post #652 of 1708 Old 01-22-2011, 12:20 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Chu Gai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: NYC area
Posts: 14,969
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 319 Post(s)
Liked: 596
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

Nice find on the link. For those of you who don't feel like reading the whole thread, I think the response by Earl Geddes (no lightweight by any means) sums it up for me.


FYI

I looked at the testing protocal when Dave Clark asked me to participate. I did not like how the test was being performed because the assumption of "recreating a concert hall" was assumed and the questions and ratings were done under this assumption. I do not agree with this assumption as the "final criteria", so I declined to participate.

I later discussed the results with Dave, and after listening to his analysis, I said "Well then basically the results were null - statistically insignficant" and he responded, "Well basically, yea." The individual variance was greater than the speaker to speaker variance under the test protocal performed.

Some people "prefered" one speaker and some people "prefered" another, nothing new there. Accuracy of the reproduction was not given any weighting at all and was not even asked about. It was all "preference" under specific recordings where the criteria was "a realistic impression of being in a concert hall".

The measurements of the Berhinger speaker were pretty incredible for such a cheap speaker. As to how it sounds? Well are we talking "preference" or "accuracy". The Orions were not "prefered" by this audience, but then again, they seemed to like the Eichmiers - at least for a "concert hall effect". Go figure.
__________________
Earl Geddes Gedlee Website
Read about the highly acclaimed Geddes loudspeakers

I was pointed to that link several weeks ago and I went through it. The test wasn't about accuracy as Earl points out as it seemed the test's purpose was more to challenge some of Linkwitz's design philosophies with speakers that certainly weren't. I suspect Earl's design would also have fared well but under the relatively small sample size would not have risen to a level high enough to not be 'embarrassed'. Had the test had different objectives, such as one for accuracy like Sean Olive runs using trained listeners, Earl may well have been the clear winner.

"I've found that when you want to know the truth about someone that someone is probably the last person you should ask." - Gregory House
Chu Gai is online now  
post #653 of 1708 Old 01-25-2011, 07:37 PM
Member
 
ssouci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Woofer Question...

I have Timeframe TF-500s

had to pull the worn butyl rubber surrounds

already have new *foam* surrounds, but am now wondering if I should just replace the woofers altogether?

(I'm getting worried that the foam won't sound correct, and not having luck finding butyl replacements)

I can get a reasonably-priced brand new old-stock pair of 6" woofers, Mitek part # 6KB1448... probably not much more $ than butyl surrounds!

does anyone have any experience with Mitek 6KB1448 woofers? do they have rubber or foam surrounds?

thanks!

PS: my woofers say "22594 - 5 ohms" on the back
ssouci is offline  
post #654 of 1708 Old 01-26-2011, 07:40 AM
Senior Member
 
Jamie Hauser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssouci View Post

Woofer Question...

I have Timeframe TF-500s

had to pull the worn butyl rubber surrounds

already have new *foam* surrounds, but am now wondering if I should just replace the woofers altogether?

(I'm getting worried that the foam won't sound correct, and not having luck finding butyl replacements)

I can get a reasonably-priced brand new old-stock pair of 6" woofers, Mitek part # 6KB1448... probably not much more $ than butyl surrounds!

does anyone have any experience with Mitek 6KB1448 woofers? do they have rubber or foam surrounds?

thanks!

PS: my woofers say "22594 - 5 ohms" on the back

The Mitek 6KB1448 (they have butyl surrounds) woofers are the ones used in the Series Two TimeFrame, CX series, Surroundscape Center, and a few others. The 6KB1448 is an excellent driver but it's not a suitable replacement in the TF500. I would rather use a foam surround on your existing driver than use the 6KB1448.
Jamie Hauser is offline  
post #655 of 1708 Old 01-26-2011, 09:10 AM
Member
 
ssouci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
thanks for the info & advice Jamie!

do you think switching to a foam surround (instead of original butyl) will affect the sound much?

(I've seen it said that the sound may actually be improved with foam, but also that butyl lasts longer)

thx
ssouci is offline  
post #656 of 1708 Old 01-27-2011, 06:08 PM
Senior Member
 
Jamie Hauser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssouci View Post

thanks for the info & advice Jamie!

do you think switching to a foam surround (instead of original butyl) will affect the sound much?

(I've seen it said that the sound may actually be improved with foam, but also that butyl lasts longer)

thx

Sorry, I don't know.
Jamie Hauser is offline  
post #657 of 1708 Old 01-27-2011, 06:23 PM
Senior Member
 
Jamie Hauser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 431
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Liked: 13
I recently upgraded my preamp with the new Onkyo PR-SC5508 that can add a “height” channel (2). So, I decided that I had enough parts and started a new project to modify two KX-Center speakers into SurroundScape Centers with TimeWindow Seven time delay circuits and tweeters. They will be mounted at ceiling height angled down on either sides of my projection screen. I can post pictures if anyone is interested.
Jamie Hauser is offline  
post #658 of 1708 Old 01-29-2011, 12:52 PM
Member
 
bartbrn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Lost a perfect pair in a divorce (can you believe it?) 20 years ago. I would like to build something as close to the 1as that I can, using SonoTube, MDF, and a lot of advice. I've never found anything I like the sound of as well, and I'd like to come as close as I can to getting that sound again (though my 62-year-old ears probably can't tell the difference anymore.

Does anyone know the design specs, both mechanical and electrical, of these late, great speakers? I know the basic overall dimensions, and what brand drivers were used (2 Philips dome tweeters and 2 Philips 6 1/2 inch woofers w/rubber surrounds in a transmission line configuration), though not sure what model Philips drivers or what alternative modern drivers would be suitable. In fact, I'll be right up front and admit I don't really know what a transmission line speaker configuration would be. All I know is there was a 6-1/2 driver and a small dome tweeter on each angled face, and I loved the sound.

I'm a retired experimental machinist and NASA-certified electronics solderer, so I have the necessary building skills, but I know zip about speaker or crossover design.

Any and all help appreciated!

Peace

Bart Brown
bartbrn is offline  
post #659 of 1708 Old 01-30-2011, 08:33 PM
Member
 
DCMlover's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 151
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by bartbrn View Post

Lost a perfect pair in a divorce (can you believe it?) 20 years ago. I would like to build something as close to the 1as that I can, using SonoTube, MDF, and a lot of advice. I've never found anything I like the sound of as well, and I'd like to come as close as I can to getting that sound again (though my 62-year-old ears probably can't tell the difference anymore.

Does anyone know the design specs, both mechanical and electrical, of these late, great speakers? I know the basic overall dimensions, and what brand drivers were used (2 Philips dome tweeters and 2 Philips 6 1/2 inch woofers w/rubber surrounds in a transmission line configuration), though not sure what model Philips drivers or what alternative modern drivers would be suitable. In fact, I'll be right up front and admit I don't really know what a transmission line speaker configuration would be. All I know is there was a 6-1/2 driver and a small dome tweeter on each angled face, and I loved the sound.

I'm a retired experimental machinist and NASA-certified electronics solderer, so I have the necessary building skills, but I know zip about speaker or crossover design.

Any and all help appreciated!

Peace

Bart Brown







buy some on craigslist. way easier.
DCMlover is offline  
post #660 of 1708 Old 01-31-2011, 06:24 AM
Member
 
bartbrn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DCMlover View Post

buy some on craigslist. way easier.

Now, why didn't *I* think of that?

Been trying to find pair on Craigslist and eBay for quite some time, found exactly one pair, 1052.7 miles from my home, currently waiting for shipping quote. Perversely enough, still interested in project, as kind of into diy stuff, and think with correct measurements, circuitry, and drivers, actually listenable -- if not sonically perfect -- replicas of originals can be achieved, especially since 62-year-old tin ears not as discerning as younger audiophiles', who can tell sonic difference between 20KHz and 20.1KHz, but thanks for hot tip. All hot tips welcome.

Bart
bartbrn is offline  
Reply Speakers



Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off