Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 28 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
First ... 26  27  28 29  30  ... Last
Speakers > Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach?
smudge981's Avatar smudge981 06:49 PM 11-10-2011
Good to see some action here. Always a pleasure to see Jamie's work. Looking good. Still rocking my HT with the two TW3s up front and the 17's as rear (side) and center.

Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 08:07 PM 11-13-2011
So it begins




The first photo is a close-up off one of the construction drawings of the top and base that are overlap on one sheet because of their similarities in shape and mounting points. The purpose of the photo is to show the transfer of key points in the drawings with needle pins to a light cardboard stock that will be "re-drawn" for use as router patterns.



The next picture is of the cardboard stock adhesived to ¼" plywood scrap that will be trimmed down to the exact shape.



Last is a photo of a stack of unassuming wood, not knowing of the fate instore for it.
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 08:09 PM 11-13-2011
Her are a few close-ups of the patterns.






Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 08:13 PM 11-15-2011
Here are some of the templates that are done.



The front baffle is made up of two pieces of ½" particleboard laminated together. The inner one has the cut outs for the 6-1/2" midrange and 9" woofer. This is for the outer one.



The next is a template for making several pieces. Two for the top and bottom to seal the cabinet (not the piano black caps or bases) and will use just the four ¼" holes for mounting the piano black caps or bases, two for internal bracing/quasi transmission line design that will only have the single 8" hole, and one that separates the midrange section (top 8" of cabinet) from the woofer section (an additional ½" will need to be trimmed from both baffle edges as shown with the scribed lines).



The last is the base template showing the locations of four mounting holes along with the locations for the spikes.
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 04:45 PM 11-19-2011
I finished making the side panels for the cabinets, (there's seven per speaker) but I need to router the cutouts for the drivers, port tubes and terminal cups yet. After trimming them for length, I used the drops to test the fit-up with the template that will be used to make the end caps and bracing. The pictures show the complexities of the cuts.






flyng_fool's Avatar flyng_fool 08:19 PM 11-19-2011
Looking awesome Jamie! Keep us posted.
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 07:43 PM 11-22-2011
Probably the most time consuming piece to make (at least for me) was the back panel with it's V'd edges, but mostly because it incorporates the two terminal cups and rear firing tweeter cut-outs (both were also recessed) and the port tube (there is a 4" hole for the plastic port tube to slides in, but also a ¼" recess that the 5" inner cardboard port tube mounts to on the inside). Also added is the time needed to make required templates.



The layout for the terminal cups showing the two way tape to hold the template.



Template in place.



The bulk of the material removed with a template guide and ¼' router bit.



Finished off with a flush trim router bit.


Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 07:51 PM 11-22-2011


One of the terminal cup cut-outs with the recess routed in.



Both panels finished with one showing the reverse side (note the ¼" recess for the 5" inner cardboard port tube mount).



Tweeter cut-out.



Rear tweeter temporally mounted to check fit.

Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 03:43 PM 11-25-2011
The next thing to do is router in the cut outs for the drivers.




Here is the template for the outer front baffle using double sided tape to hold it place before
the bulk of the material removed with a template guide and ¼’ router bit.




After being trimmed.




This photo is with the outer baffle temporally clamped to the inner baffle and a cardboard template inserted to transfer (using a prick punch) the center hole locations for the driver cut outs, driver screw mounting locations, tweeter grill screen screw mounting locations, and hole for tweeter wires.




Inner baffle partially router.




Finished outer baffle on top of inner baffle.

Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 05:44 PM 11-26-2011


Rear baffle trimmed to size and ready to be adhered to the back of the front baffle using construction adhesive. The wood is temporarily darkened from mineral spirits used to wipe down the surface after vacuuming the dust off



Baffle clamped in place.



Backside after construction adhesive set.

triple_dre's Avatar triple_dre 07:14 AM 11-27-2011
Nice going, Jamie. As always

I recently bought a pair of TW3's, only to find out that they are two right speakers!
So now I'm thinking about what to do. I think rebuilding only one speaker won't really be the best way since it's really hard to get it to the exact same sizes as the original. Which basically leaves me with no other choice than to build new cabinets for both sides..
Jamie, beeing the more experienced DCM rebuilder, do you have any advice?
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 05:09 PM 11-27-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by triple_dre View Post

Nice going, Jamie. As always

I recently bought a pair of TW3's, only to find out that they are two right speakers!
So now I'm thinking about what to do. I think rebuilding only one speaker won't really be the best way since it's really hard to get it to the exact same sizes as the original. Which basically leaves me with no other choice than to build new cabinets for both sides..
Jamie, beeing the more experienced DCM rebuilder, do you have any advice?

I would try and rebuild one of them. The TW3's, like the Seven's, are mirror image which means you would have to basically reverse the front baffles because of the two different sized drivers and front facing port. You would have to remove the drivers and separate the baffles from the cabinet and build new ones but reversed. I would separate the inside divider for the transmission line from the sonotube instead of from the baffles. If you can find the staples and remove or cut them with a dremel disk, you can them use a heat gun to soften the adhesive and possibly pry the joints apart. If you mess them up bad enough, you can always build a new one from scratch.
Hey, "why build one when you can have two at twice the price?"
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 06:43 PM 11-27-2011


The template was used to trace out the lines needed to cut the blanks from the ½" particleboard on the table saw.





The stack of blanks ready to be trimmed on the router table. Only four (two per speaker enclosure) will have the 8" hole in the center.



A finished brace with the template still attached and a blank next to it.

Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 05:53 PM 11-28-2011
Here are the last pieces for the cabinet.



The top and bottom end caps. Note the T-nuts that are for mounting the black decorative top and base.



Inner partitions. The one on the left has an additional 1/2" trim from the edges that face the front baffles.



This is the inner 5" ID cardboard port tube and brace. The brace is attached to the two front baffles



This last photo shows all the pieces in order before assembly. The long piece in the middle is the rear of the speaker and the other pieces wrap around until the front baffles (large outer pieces on the ends) meet. Pieces on the floor are bottom on the left to top on the right.

DyeLooper's Avatar DyeLooper 08:31 PM 11-28-2011
My first speakers I ever owned were DCM's. I got them in 1982? They were spectacular. I lent them to a friend while I payed in the Army for 8yrs, I never saw them again Iy anyone see's them out there, please let them know I miss them!
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 07:07 PM 11-30-2011
It took a little while to decide on how to assemble everything and keep everything square. After checking with Steve E., he gave me the order, but DCM used a jig to keep everything in alignment. Not wanting to go to the effort to build one (seeing that I’m only assembling two), I came up with a relatively simple solution.



What I did was flip the three back pieces over, line them up tightly, and duct taped the two joints together. The whole edge on both ends could be sanded to square with all three pieces as if they were all one piece. This would eliminate any accumulative error with misaligned /out-of-square pieces assembled individually.



Next, the three pieces are flipped back over and lines locating the partions/braces are scribed in.




After that, it’s just a matter of running a bead of construction adhesive inside both joints and pulling the two sides together using duct tape to temporally hold them up. Then, one at a time, starting with the end caps, then the internal braces, apply the same construction adhesive and attach them with 1" long, ¼" heat-adhesive crown staples. The duct tape did an excellent job holding the pieces in alignment and keeps the joints uniform and relatively tight. Steve mentioned that you really don’t want a joint that is to tight as in clamping, but up to 1/16 of an inch, and never less than a few thousandths of an inch, to help with the sound deadening.
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 07:23 PM 11-30-2011


After glued and stapled.



Another shot, standing up.



Next with the narrow strips were added that hold the decorative piano black fluted sidepieces. Note the T-nuts that are needed for the Mod-eez fasteners for the fluted sidepieces.



The inner 5" port tube is hot glued in place like the original. I don't know why hot glue was used in this particular case when a construction adhesive is used elsewhere. The CX-17 cardboard port tubes were also done the same way. I guess I'll have to ask Steve

Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 08:37 PM 11-30-2011


One of the front baffles dry fitted



After glued up



This one shows setting up the brace for the other end of the port tube, it attaches to both front baffles and the tube is also glued to it. I don't know how the factory did it, but this worked. After the adhesive set up, I added a couple of temporary braces underneath just to be safe, then glued it up with everything else before I set the last baffle. Before setting the last baffle, Steve said that the stuffing, crossovers and wiring would be put in place. I decide to hold off because the crossovers aren't quite finished yet, I still have to make and fit the tops, base and side pieces, and even though it might be tougher, I can still access every area without the drivers in place.

Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 04:11 PM 12-01-2011
Here are some random shots of the one completed cabinet. I'll assemble the other in the next day or two, then probably start on the tops, bases and side panels.





































This last one, I added the Mod-eez screws to the top of the cabinet and did a trial fit with one of the original tops off one of my TW7’s
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 05:06 PM 12-03-2011
and then there were two.




flyng_fool's Avatar flyng_fool 05:46 AM 12-04-2011
Jamie, that is just a stunning piece of artwork cloning the TW's. Now for the real test, you have to take a bunch of photos of your clone alongside the real thing. Then we'll see how close you got!
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 11:55 AM 12-04-2011
Thank you. At this point, the only comparison (photo wise) is the top shot, because it's the only picture of the original cabinet that is not covered with headliner material. Although I pretty confident the new cabinets are very close to one of the originals (right speaker) that I took very close measurements from. I believe I'm within 1/16 of an inch to those measurements in most regards.




Danislous's Avatar Danislous 07:20 PM 12-04-2011
There is a pair of tw7s on eBay right now if if anyone is interested (a pair of tw3's too)
flyng_fool's Avatar flyng_fool 07:54 PM 12-04-2011
And a pair of QED's!
DCMlover's Avatar DCMlover 10:57 PM 12-04-2011
Awwwwe snap!!! I wanna get me them 7's!!!!! As much as I hate socal I would head out there to get them!!
Danislous's Avatar Danislous 03:10 PM 12-07-2011
Having been inspired by Hauser's posts, I'm thinking about attempting to insert the "time delay" circuit (ala TW7's) into a pair of standard CX-17's.
Any thoughts?
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 05:20 PM 12-08-2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danislous View Post

Having been inspired by Hauser's posts, I'm thinking about attempting to insert the "time delay" circuit (ala TW7's) into a pair of standard CX-17's.
Any thoughts?



Unless you have the diamond coated tweeter that was used in the TW7 (D23), in wouldn’t work as Steve designed it. You would be better off adapting the delay network from possibly the SurroundScape Center.
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 06:44 PM 12-08-2011
I started building the tops and bases. They are made from MDF and are approximately 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" thick, respectively. I could not find any reasonable source for those thickness', but could make them up by sandwiching ¾" and ½" for the tops and doubling up ¾" for the bases.



Using the two patterns to trace out the needed blanks and rough cutting them to size, here is one half of one of the bases being glued with Gorilla glue. I used a wide plastic scraper to spread it out to a thin even thickness over the entire surface. After that you wet the joining piece and clamp for 3 hours.



After they are set-up, the next step is to finish them off with a flush trim router bit. Here is one of the bases that is trimmed next to the one with the pattern taped on (note the centering holes for the mounting screws and floor spikes were transferred from the pattern to the base with a 1/16" drill). The tops were done in the same manner.



The tops need to have recesses routered into the underside for the Mod-ezz fasteners. I made a jig using some scrape plywood and used the plunge router with a template guide and ¼' router bit.




The underside of one of the tops with the recesses routered.



Mod-ezz clip screwed in place.



DCMlover's Avatar DCMlover 10:38 PM 12-08-2011
Very nice looking project.
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 08:14 PM 12-09-2011


Next, there is a 1/16th" x 3/16" relief that is routered on the underside of the top.



Then a 1/16" deep vee cut in 5/16" from the underside.



Then a ¼" radius on the top edge.



First ... 26  27  28 29  30  ... Last

Up
Mobile  Desktop