Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 57 - AVS Forum
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post #1681 of 1707 Old 09-25-2014, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by originalhifiman View Post
Jamie, I see you've been visiting the forum recently. I acquired a pair of Time Window 2s recently. I was wondering if you know anything about them??? In particular; I'm trying to determine, for sure, the correct sides for the top cabinets. They are not marked L or R, but they do have serial numbers on them. I've got the bottom cabinets figured out based on other TW models (bass ports outboard). Take a look at my first post #1655 and also #1662 . If you can help me out here, it would be deeply appreciated. You're probably the only one who can.
I don't have any direct experience with the TW2s, but from pictures others have posted they look to be the forerunners of the TW3 which I am familiar with. It looks like the tweeter level and disbursement controls are very similar if not the same. If they indeed are, I would look at the internal wiring. The wire going from the "High Frequency Disbursement" control should go to the indirect (outside) tweeter. If that's not the case, let me know, I would then have to ask Steve E.
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post #1682 of 1707 Old 09-25-2014, 08:37 AM
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Have been exploring capacitors (re: replacement in my TW7's)... any problem with replacing the electrolytics with poly film caps? I love the Obligato's and think they may be awesome.

Thanks!
Dave
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post #1683 of 1707 Old 09-25-2014, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dfontalbert View Post
Have been exploring capacitors (re: replacement in my TW7's)... any problem with replacing the electrolytics with poly film caps? I love the Obligato's and think they may be awesome.

Thanks!
Dave
Sure, no problem. Price out a 200uf polypropylene cap (if you can find one) and get back to us. Also, take note of it's size while you're at it. LOL
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post #1684 of 1707 Old 09-26-2014, 07:35 AM
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Sure, no problem. Price out a 200uf polypropylene cap (if you can find one) and get back to us. Also, take note of it's size while you're at it. LOL

$35 for Jensen is about the best I could find. Definitely costly for 8 of those! Of course if there is a sonic improvement, $280 is not that much compared to some tweaks to be sure, but not sure not having A/B'd them
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post #1685 of 1707 Old 09-26-2014, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by dfontalbert View Post
$35 for Jensen is about the best I could find. Definitely costly for 8 of those! Of course if there is a sonic improvement, $280 is not that much compared to some tweaks to be sure, but not sure not having A/B'd them
Could you provide a link? That seems a little low.

Were you still going to post a picture of your top?

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post #1686 of 1707 Old 09-26-2014, 11:30 AM
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Could you provide a link? That seems a little low.

Were you still going to post a picture of your top?

Sorry, you are correct - I was looking at an audiophile-grade electrolytic (ebay) for $35.90 ea. This is about the lowest I can find in film:

http://www.parts-express.com/solen-2...citor--027-630

Yep, gotta tie a string on my finger so I can remember to photograph that scratched top this weekend! Have a good one Jamie
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post #1687 of 1707 Old 09-26-2014, 11:55 AM
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Hi, will try to get those pics posted this evening Jamie... another question though:

Even though I don't particularly notice a drop off in performance, should I attempt replacement of the TW7 capacitors as alluded to in this thread? I'm the original owner, and I'm going to say that these are likely about 19 years old. I'm okay with a soldering iron, but didn't know if it's a case of "don't fix what's not broken"? Hate to end up with a problem.

Thanks!
I replaced all of the caps in my TW7's in 2 stages. First I replaced the electrolytics with mundorf's which I bought here: http://www.partsconnexion.com/capaci...orf_bipol.html

This made a considerable improvement, especially in the low end response.

Later on I replaced the poly film caps with polypropylene ones. I was not expecting this to make all that much of a difference and I was extremely surprised at the increase in nuance and detail in the sound. I used the Panasonic film caps. Jamie used these caps in his clones and Steve E is the one that recommended them. I don't immediately recall exactly what I ordered but if you decide to go that route let me know and I dig up my invoice.

The 2 other things I did that greatly improved the sound was getting a receiver with Audyessy MultEQ XT32. The room correction that this made for the speakers was remarkable. I could not believe it. I have to thank Jamie as he is the person that steered me in that direction. It completely opened up the sound. I then added an SVS sub as I was only running a 2 channel preamp before. Pushing off some of the low end to the sub again helped the TW7's shine even more. And I agree with you, I haven't heard anything better!

My TW7's have the vacuum formed tops which you can see in post 1068. The painted ones have a rounded edge and a reveal on the bottom of the cap (see post 999).

Jamie, I'd love to know how you would go about buffing out the acrylic tops.
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post #1688 of 1707 Old 09-26-2014, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dfontalbert View Post
Sorry, you are correct - I was looking at an audiophile-grade electrolytic (ebay) for $35.90 ea. This is about the lowest I can find in film:

http://www.parts-express.com/solen-2...citor--027-630

Yep, gotta tie a string on my finger so I can remember to photograph that scratched top this weekend! Have a good one Jamie
Sorry, but I'm usually I'm more to the point. I was trying to let you figure out the answer to your question yourself. Going with the Solen, and just replacing the electrolytics with them, you would need 8 - 200uF @ $65 ea, 2 - 100uF @ $39 ea, an 2 - 47uf @ $19. So if my math is right that's a total of $636 plus tax and shipping. Now lets say money is no object, the 200uF cap in question is 2-3/8" x 4-1/4". Try fitting 8 of those babies on your boards plus the 100 and 47uF ones! LOL

If you still like to consider it, you may want to check these post in this thread: # 1052, # 1057, #1087 and # 1487. We had some good discussion on this subject.
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post #1689 of 1707 Old 09-26-2014, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyTW3 View Post
I replaced all of the caps in my TW7's in 2 stages. First I replaced the electrolytics with mundorf's which I bought here: http://www.partsconnexion.com/capaci...orf_bipol.html

This made a considerable improvement, especially in the low end response.

Later on I replaced the poly film caps with polypropylene ones. I was not expecting this to make all that much of a difference and I was extremely surprised at the increase in nuance and detail in the sound. I used the Panasonic film caps. Jamie used these caps in his clones and Steve E is the one that recommended them. I don't immediately recall exactly what I ordered but if you decide to go that route let me know and I dig up my invoice.

The 2 other things I did that greatly improved the sound was getting a receiver with Audyessy MultEQ XT32. The room correction that this made for the speakers was remarkable. I could not believe it. I have to thank Jamie as he is the person that steered me in that direction. It completely opened up the sound. I then added an SVS sub as I was only running a 2 channel preamp before. Pushing off some of the low end to the sub again helped the TW7's shine even more. And I agree with you, I haven't heard anything better!

My TW7's have the vacuum formed tops which you can see in post 1068. The painted ones have a rounded edge and a reveal on the bottom of the cap (see post 999).

Jamie, I'd love to know how you would go about buffing out the acrylic tops.
To dfontalbert , what he said.
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post #1690 of 1707 Old 09-26-2014, 06:38 PM
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I did a little work on one of my TF-700 cabinets today. Tomorrow I should be able to finish up the one cabinet and start the second cabinet by gingerly removing the fabric sock then ripping all of that nasty effin' rotten foam off the damned thing.

I HATE having to remove all of that fabric glue and rotten foam. It's a major pain. I will not be replacing the foam between the sock and particle board cab. I will, however, glue in some heavy felt in the upper half of the front baffles but that's it. The rest of the cabinets will be primed and painted black.

Effin' foam. Only one thing in the world worse than that foam and that's the black death glue that holds the drivers in place. Awful.

I'll post a pic in a day or two.

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post #1691 of 1707 Old 09-26-2014, 08:23 PM
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I did a little work on one of my TF-700 cabinets today. Tomorrow I should be able to finish up the one cabinet and start the second cabinet by gingerly removing the fabric sock then ripping all of that nasty effin' rotten foam off the damned thing.

I HATE having to remove all of that fabric glue and rotten foam. It's a major pain. I will not be replacing the foam between the sock and particle board cab. I will, however, glue in some heavy felt in the upper half of the front baffles but that's it. The rest of the cabinets will be primed and painted black.

Effin' foam. Only one thing in the world worse than that foam and that's the black death glue that holds the drivers in place. Awful.

I'll post a pic in a day or two.
Don't mince words Bones, what do you really think?
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post #1692 of 1707 Old 09-27-2014, 09:38 AM
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Don't mince words Bones, what do you really think?
I'm a doctor, not a bricklayer!

As promised, some TF-700 refurb pics. I'm not someone who starts a project and knocks it out quickly so don't look for updates every few days. I may be all winter working on these.

Foam, Steve? Really? Not to worry. I'll clean it up.




Checking the fit of the drivers. The midrange is a Tang Band that will replace the Audax drivers that I gave away. I'm going to use the Seas Prestige 19TFF1 in place of the stock tweeters too.





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post #1693 of 1707 Old 09-29-2014, 08:29 AM
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Has anyone tried to build a pair of speakers from scratch that sound like Time Windows?

Either by perhaps copying the crossover design and then selecting new drivers from Parts Express and then constructing cabinets that are like the original speakers or at similar in design?

Seeing as how it seems Time Windows are getting harder and harder to come by and there potentially being a market for new speakers it seems that maybe this approach can also be of benefit.

I've read through about the first 320 posts of this thread and if someone has posted instructions like this I apologize for repeating what may have already happened.
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post #1694 of 1707 Old 09-29-2014, 03:01 PM
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Has anyone tried to build a pair of speakers from scratch that sound like Time Windows?

Either by perhaps copying the crossover design and then selecting new drivers from Parts Express and then constructing cabinets that are like the original speakers or at similar in design?

Seeing as how it seems Time Windows are getting harder and harder to come by and there potentially being a market for new speakers it seems that maybe this approach can also be of benefit.

I've read through about the first 320 posts of this thread and if someone has posted instructions like this I apologize for repeating what may have already happened.
Jamie hand built a pair of TW7 clones. I'm not sure where the first reference to him building them is in this thread. But you can start on post 763. That's where he starts on the crossovers.


I'm not sure he'll build you a pair, but they say everything has a price. Maybe you can make him an offer he can't say no to.
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post #1695 of 1707 Old 09-29-2014, 03:38 PM
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Jamie hand built a pair of TW7 clones. I'm not sure where the first reference to him building them is in this thread. But you can start on post 763. That's where he starts on the crossovers.


I'm not sure he'll build you a pair, but they say everything has a price. Maybe you can make him an offer he can't say no to.
I seem to recall he said it was a labor of love an that there was no way he would ever build a set for someone else. Could be wrong though. I know I'll never recoup the amount of time & money I put into my refurb jobs and they don't compare to what Mr. Hauser can accomplish.

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post #1696 of 1707 Old 09-29-2014, 03:40 PM
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I don't have any direct experience with the TW2s, but from pictures others have posted they look to be the forerunners of the TW3 which I am familiar with. It looks like the tweeter level and disbursement controls are very similar if not the same. If they indeed are, I would look at the internal wiring. The wire going from the "High Frequency Disbursement" control should go to the indirect (outside) tweeter. If that's not the case, let me know, I would then have to ask Steve E.
Jamie, I'm finally getting back to you. I opened the top cabinet and here's what I found. There are 2 white wires with black and purple stripes connected to the High Frequency Disbursement control. They both run to a terminal strip on the crossover, where they each connect to different terminals.

One connects to a terminal where a purple wire is also connected. This purple wire then goes through the particle board face next to one of the coaxial drivers (presumably to the tweeter). There is nothing else connected to this terminal.

The other wire from the control is connected to a different terminal on the same strip. There are 2 additional wires also connected to this terminal (one blue and the other "uninsulated"). The blue wire goes through the particle board face next to the other coaxial driver (again, presumably to the tweeter). The uninsulated wire comes directly from the first of an array of 8 combination coil/capacitor units (at least that's what I think they are).

So, there you have it; One of the 2 wires from the High Frequency Disbursement control appears to be directly connected to the tweeter on one side, and the other one appears to be connected to the tweeter on the other side, in addition to the crossover. I hope I've been clear enough. By the way; my real name is John Weber.
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post #1697 of 1707 Old 09-29-2014, 05:43 PM
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Has anyone tried to build a pair of speakers from scratch that sound like Time Windows?

Either by perhaps copying the crossover design and then selecting new drivers from Parts Express and then constructing cabinets that are like the original speakers or at similar in design?

Seeing as how it seems Time Windows are getting harder and harder to come by and there potentially being a market for new speakers it seems that maybe this approach can also be of benefit.

I've read through about the first 320 posts of this thread and if someone has posted instructions like this I apologize for repeating what may have already happened.

I built and a set of TW7 clones (starting at post #784 ), a custom center channel speaker (starting at post #213 ) to match the set of TW7's that I already had, and converted two KX-Centers into SurroundScape Centers (starting at post #731 ) with a TW7 tweeter, tweeter circuit and anti-diffraction lens . In the case with the TW7's, they were built as clones. They were the exact copy of the originals with the exception of the polypropylene over polyester film caps. The TW7 Center speaker was based off of the DCM CX17 but added the TW7 tweeter and accompanying tweeter circuit and anti-diffraction lens. The SurroundScape Centers conversion (starting at post 731) also added the TW7 tweeter and accompanying tweeter circuit and anti-diffraction lens. In all cases, they were DCM cabinet designs, using the correct DCM drivers with their matching crossovers. Everything was already well engineered by Steve Eberbach to work together. He did suggest (because I was building new) that I could use polypropylene over polyester with the film caps, the CX17 cabinet size can be increased by 10%, (it's original design size) and how to properly integrate the TW7 tweeter, tweeter circuit and anti-diffraction lens in the CX17 and SurroundScape Center design. Again, these are all things he designed and tested, I didn't mix and match anything.

So, to answer your question: "Has anyone tried to build a pair of speakers from scratch that sound like Time Windows?". Yes, I have.

Now, if I understand you correctly, "Either by perhaps copying the crossover design and then selecting new drivers from Parts Express and then constructing cabinets that are like the original speakers or at similar in design?". No, I haven't.

Why? Because they wouldn't sound like what Steve Eberbach designed his TimeWindows or other DCM speakers to sound like. That's why I adhered so closely to what he did. I wanted to reproduce that sound. I'm also not saying that you can't do what you suggested, it just wouldn't be the same.

That's why we try to rebuild/preserve Steve's work here in this thread.
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post #1698 of 1707 Old 09-29-2014, 05:54 PM
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Jamie, I'm finally getting back to you. I opened the top cabinet and here's what I found. There are 2 white wires with black and purple stripes connected to the High Frequency Disbursement control. They both run to a terminal strip on the crossover, where they each connect to different terminals.

One connects to a terminal where a purple wire is also connected. This purple wire then goes through the particle board face next to one of the coaxial drivers (presumably to the tweeter). There is nothing else connected to this terminal.

The other wire from the control is connected to a different terminal on the same strip. There are 2 additional wires also connected to this terminal (one blue and the other "uninsulated"). The blue wire goes through the particle board face next to the other coaxial driver (again, presumably to the tweeter). The uninsulated wire comes directly from the first of an array of 8 combination coil/capacitor units (at least that's what I think they are).

So, there you have it; One of the 2 wires from the High Frequency Disbursement control appears to be directly connected to the tweeter on one side, and the other one appears to be connected to the tweeter on the other side, in addition to the crossover. I hope I've been clear enough. By the way; my real name is John Weber.
"This purple wire then goes through the particle board face next to one of the coaxial drivers (presumably to the tweeter). "

The way you describe it and checking against the TW3 schematic, the purple wire should go to the outboard tweeter if their designs are the same. I would check both speakers to see if they mirror each other. If they don't, right and left wouldn't matter then.

"By the way; my real name is John Weber." Sorry, but have we met?

Last edited by Jamie Hauser; 09-29-2014 at 06:01 PM.
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post #1699 of 1707 Old 09-29-2014, 10:25 PM
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"This purple wire then goes through the particle board face next to one of the coaxial drivers (presumably to the tweeter). "

The way you describe it and checking against the TW3 schematic, the purple wire should go to the outboard tweeter if their designs are the same. I would check both speakers to see if they mirror each other. If they don't, right and left wouldn't matter then.

"By the way; my real name is John Weber." Sorry, but have we met?
OK Jamie, The top cabinets do indeed mirror each other. What really puzzles me though; DCM designed the TW2 to be specific left and right units, yet they didn't designate, somewhere on the outside of the cabinets, which was which (as they did with their other speakers, such as the TW3 and TW7)??? Not only could the bottom cabinets be placed wrong, the top cabinets could be set on the wrong bottoms. They had to know they could easily get mixed up at some point. There must be more to the story.

When I first got these TW2s, I used my TW3s (arrows pointing toward each other, places bass ports outboard) to determine which bottom cabinet was left and which was right . By listening to each tweeter, I noticed the High Frequency Disbursement control seemed to affect the outboard tweeter, and not the inboard. So, I positioned the TW2 top cabinets accordingly. This does seem to verify the purple wired tweeters should be to the outside.

If you could run all of this by Steve, I would be most appreciative. Anything else he could remember about the TW2 would also be useful. I read somewhere that the TW2s were designed to be "no expenses spared" speakers. Consequently, they were very pricey and didn't sell well; and not too many were ever produced. For now, I will place the top cabinets with the purple wired tweeters to the outside.

No, we haven't met. Just didn't see any reason to hide behind the nickname I registered under.
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post #1700 of 1707 Old 10-01-2014, 01:23 PM
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Thanks Jamie and Tony! I think space would be a bear with the large poly caps, so I went with the Erse electrolytics for the 200uf. I'll think about replacing the poly caps, maybe like Tony suggested, at a later stage - have so many things to do:

I'm trying to catalog my vinyl/cd collection using the Collectorz software, which I think is very good... will then have to clean and re-package my lp's in new inner/outer sleeves. Then need to mount my new FM antenna, install room tweaks, etc... it's exhausting but I do enjoy everything.

Jamie, I took the pics of my lightly scratched top but didn't know that they had to be attached as url's.... I'll try and upload to my ftl service tonight and post from home.
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post #1701 of 1707 Old 10-01-2014, 06:47 PM
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There are some out there that would say I spend too much time on minutia. I like to think of myself as meticulous. I filled the screw holes with toothpicks and glue the other day and today I cut the excess off with a razor and sanded.





Also, I didn't like the screws sticking up from the surface of the cabinets. I flush mounted the original screws and used toothpicks and glue to give them something to bite into as particleboard isn't so great. Where needed I also added a 2nd screw. Both of these go into a 2" x 2" brace.





Here's how I mounted the midrange flush. Not perfect, but it'll do.




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2: Computer > Parasound Zdac > Emotiva Control Freak > Acurus A150 > Focal 706V | Def Tech SM450 | Velodyne F-1000B Sub
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post #1702 of 1707 Old 10-01-2014, 06:48 PM
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Ahhhh, so clean and fresh. I hate that nasty foam rubber. Hate it with a passion.





Since the particleboard was chipping away in so many spots, I took some Loctite construction adhesive and slathered it on the areas that seem to be most vulnerable to chipping. Hopefully, this will keep everything nice and tight.





Both cabinets are just about ready to be primed and painted. :thmbsp:

1: Sony DVP-S7000 | Denon DVD-2900 | Laptop > Emotiva XDA-2 > Emotiva Control Freak > Crown XLS2000 > Focal 826V | Def Tech BP2000 | (2) DIY 15" Subs
2: Computer > Parasound Zdac > Emotiva Control Freak > Acurus A150 > Focal 706V | Def Tech SM450 | Velodyne F-1000B Sub
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post #1703 of 1707 Old 10-03-2014, 05:29 PM
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from post #1699 - When I first got these TW2s, I used my TW3s (arrows pointing toward each other, places bass ports outboard) to determine which bottom cabinet was left and which was right . By listening to each tweeter, I noticed the High Frequency Disbursement control seemed to affect the outboard tweeter, and not the inboard. So, I positioned the TW2 top cabinets accordingly. This does seem to verify the purple wired tweeters should be to the outside.
Jamie, The info I gave you above, is partially wrong. The High and Mid frequency dispersion controls on my TW3s control the outboard drivers. They have no detectable effect on the inboard drivers. This I have positively confirmed. The original owner's manual also verifies this. That being the case, and positioning the top cabinets of the TW2s accordingly, it is the blue wired tweeters that are positioned outboard; NOT the purple wired tweeter. For now, This is how I am going to leave them positioned; just based upon how the TW3s operate. Please let me know if you have any further thoughts or if you get the opportunity to speak to Steve about this.

Thanks, John
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post #1704 of 1707 Old 10-09-2014, 07:43 PM
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I did get a chance to talk to Steve. He said that the TimeWindow Square's bottom sections are the same (not mirrored). The disbursement controls only effect the outboard drivers in the top sections.
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post #1705 of 1707 Old 10-10-2014, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post
I did get a chance to talk to Steve. He said that the TimeWindow Square's bottom sections are the same (not mirrored). The disbursement controls only effect the outboard drivers in the top sections.
Jamie, Thanks for checking with Steve on the disbursement controls. It makes sense. I took another look at the bottom cabinets. They are definitely mirrors of each other. They have dual bass ports and a woofer on one side, and just a woofer on the other. I will keep them positioned the same as the TW3s; ports on the outboard sides. Thanks again, John
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post #1706 of 1707 Old 10-14-2014, 07:10 AM
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Dr. M. how did you choose the drivers trhat you are replaceing in the TW700's. Did you compare T/S's. I guess what i'm getting at is how they may match up to the original crossover design due to the possible changing impedance curves, etc.

DCM: TW1, TW3, QED, QED1a, TFV8.0, TF1000, (3pr) TF600, Time Piece, (3pr) CX27, (3+pr) CX17, (3pr) CX07, CX Center.
Polk: RTA12, SDA1C, SDA 2A, SDA SRS, SDA SRS 1.2TL, 5Jr., Monitor 5, Atrium (2pr).
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post #1707 of 1707 Old 10-14-2014, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Bubbles View Post
Dr. M. how did you choose the drivers trhat you are replaceing in the TW700's. Did you compare T/S's. I guess what i'm getting at is how they may match up to the original crossover design due to the possible changing impedance curves, etc.
I looked for something that would fit with little modification to the cabinets and that was around 89 db in SPL. I also wanted something that had an extended range so I would be sure the driver would work between the two crossover points. It didn't hurt that one day they were the deal of the day on Parts Express.

I currently have the 700s in my living room and have been playing music through just the Tang Bands using a high pass at 125 Hz. The frequencies below 125 Hz are going to two subs. The drivers are very detailed and clear, especially with Baroque chamber music. I think they're going to work very well in the Timeframes.

1: Sony DVP-S7000 | Denon DVD-2900 | Laptop > Emotiva XDA-2 > Emotiva Control Freak > Crown XLS2000 > Focal 826V | Def Tech BP2000 | (2) DIY 15" Subs
2: Computer > Parasound Zdac > Emotiva Control Freak > Acurus A150 > Focal 706V | Def Tech SM450 | Velodyne F-1000B Sub
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