Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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Speakers > Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach?
sydneybird's Avatar sydneybird 10:17 PM 08-24-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by irlsanders View Post

Is anyone else bothered by the fact that they continued to make speakers AFTER the Q.E.D? [/url]

Sorry to be so dense but, are/were the QED's good or bad? Please tell us more of the history and specs of the QED and how you feel about the sound compared with the DCM family.

sydneybird's Avatar sydneybird 10:38 PM 08-24-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by formfactor View Post

You're the guy who got the 2 sets on ebay right?
.

Irlsanders, where these the ones auctioned on July 31st and won for $170? I'm anxious for you to tell us if the Time Bass is anything special. I was looking at them as well, because I just have to have everthing that Steve had a hand in. I have a pair of very early model Hsu HRSW10 10" cylinder subs that really shake the house and was wondering what Steve had done with his version of the sub.
sydneybird's Avatar sydneybird 10:45 PM 08-24-2007
As I keep adding to my classic DCM collection, and enjoying those here that buy up other models and tell us about them, I'm starting to wonder if I should be worrying about cross-over components that might be failing. Can anyone summarize here as to what components for varous models that might have troublesome electronics after all these years? Maybe those Time Bases are sucking power because of failing electronics. Thanks.
bdl003's Avatar bdl003 11:01 PM 08-24-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by formfactor View Post

Do you mean the timewindow 3? What sort of repair are you looking at?

I've been in indirect contact through email with Steve for a while, perhaps Jamie can also help.

I have a pair of timewindow 3, I am talking about timewindow 2 or as they were also called timewindow square. Still need any help please.
irlsanders's Avatar irlsanders 10:47 AM 08-25-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydneybird View Post

Sorry to be so dense but, are/were the QED's good or bad? Please tell us more of the history and specs of the QED and how you feel about the sound compared with the DCM family.

I was just being litteral - QED is the abbreviation of a latin phrase meaning "I Rest My Case", and therefor ironic that it wasn't their final speaker!
irlsanders's Avatar irlsanders 10:51 AM 08-25-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydneybird View Post

Irlsanders, where these the ones auctioned on July 31st and won for $170? I'm anxious for you to tell us if the Time Bass is anything special. I was looking at them as well, because I just have to have everthing that Steve had a hand in. I have a pair of very early model Hsu HRSW10 10" cylinder subs that really shake the house and was wondering what Steve had done with his version of the sub.

Nope, these have been "in the family" for years. They seem okay, not fabulous. I may not be hitting them with quite enough power. I may bridge 250 watts into them and see if that wakes them up. In general, I prefer my Citation sub with the TWs.
bdl003's Avatar bdl003 01:18 AM 08-27-2007
The problem is the bottom woofer until does produce any sound in either speaker. I'm not sure what the problem is but any help would be great. Here's is a link to what these speakers look live. http://r.duffy.home.att.net/dcm/dcmvint.html The all black is a where the mids and tweeters are, the bottom w/o grill in place is where the woofers are.
irlsanders's Avatar irlsanders 05:30 PM 08-27-2007
Hmmm -

these TimeWindows from ebay -

http://i4.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/ae/66/1a88_12.JPG

show a felt strip over the woofers, and a mesh grill over the tweets - none of my 4 TWs had that. Original, or weird mod?

Also - there's a pair of working QEDs up there now,

http://cgi.*********/Matched-pair-of...QQcmdZViewItem

and some Timeframes on craiglist L.A -

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/ele/406232019.html
sydneybird's Avatar sydneybird 07:20 AM 09-13-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by irlsanders View Post

Hmmm -

these TimeWindows from ebay -

http://i4.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/ae/66/1a88_12.JPG

show a felt strip over the woofers, and a mesh grill over the tweets - none of my 4 TWs had that. Original, or weird mod?

I'm sure that's original, but my TW's don't have it either. I think that came about for the TW1a's. My TF-2000's have the felt strips as well. I would love to hear from Steve about how and why he came up with covering the woofs and putting mesh over the tweets. My TF-2000's have two woofs, with a felt strip covering the top half of the top woof and the bottom half of the bottom woof. Very strange.
irlsanders's Avatar irlsanders 06:52 PM 09-26-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

Quote:
I'm wondering what the three settings on the attenuators are, (such a -3db, -6db, neutral, and at what frequencies?) and also why when you toggle a switch, there is a two second delay before the sound changes, almost like a really slow relay is being thrown, but I don't know how that could be in an unpowered speaker.

]Steve will be gone for a while, when he gets back I'll ask. Could you pull the crossovers out and post some photo's? How good are you at tracing them for a schematic? This would be interesting to figure out while Steve is gone.

Any follow up on this?
Thanks,
IRL
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 12:16 PM 10-01-2007
irlsanders,

I had a chance to talk to Steve today. He was sorry that he wasn't much help because of how much time has passed since he designed the TimeBass. His best guess was that the #1 attenuator was for the main speaker #2 was for the TimeBass. As Steve mentioned before, they were designed specifically to pair with the original TimeWindows, Russell mini-monitors, or Quad Electrostatics with a passive crossover of 80hz. The #1 and #2 switch positions combinations would change depending on which speaker you would use The bypass switch in A position allowed the main to run full range, C position turned the TimeBass off, and B position "normal" turn the system into a three way. He mentioned that there is a transformer in the crossover circuitry. He suggested contacting DCM for a crossover schematic. Penny Hole is whom I have been dealing with.
irlsanders's Avatar irlsanders 05:48 PM 10-03-2007
Thanks Jamie
bilboda's Avatar bilboda 12:19 PM 10-09-2007
Timewindows in Colorado $150 on Agon. Looking good too! http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls....ull&1197127282
KingBubba's Avatar KingBubba 09:06 AM 10-10-2007
Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and I am an audioholic. I too have had a thing for DCM since my first exposure to the Time Windows in 1980. I was never able to afford them so I put them out of mind for many years. I own 3 pair of Timeframes, no higher than the 400s, CX-17s and CX-27s. I can't get enough of the sound. This would explain why, when I came across a pair of Time Windows 1s for $100 on Craigslist, I jumped on them.

I was disappointed to find that one of the pair of woofers in one of the cabs are frozen solid. They still have voice coils because they are projecting audio, they just aren't moving at all. I am heartbroken. I have waited for 27 years to get a pair of Time Windows and once again I am fixing things. I suppose it is to be expected with 28 year old speakers.

Anyway, enough of my whining and to the point of my presence here. I was directed here by bilboda on AudioKarma and I have read this entire thread. Great stuff. Bilboda suggested that I direct my question to Jamie regarding the issue I am having, in hopes that he may have some knowledge of this issue.

Having just finished reading this thread, I know that I have to heat the woofers to get them out of the cabinets. Beyond that, I am clueless if there is anything I can do about the frozen coils. My assumption, from info gathered at AK and from an experience with a DCM from a later black model, is that the magnets have shifted. The question I have is twofold. If it is magnet shift, what can be done about the issue. If it is not magnet shift, what other causes could there be and what can be done about it.

I would be very grateful to hear from anyone about this problem. I realize my comments and questions may be off topic here, so you would be welcome to direct your thoughts to my email address: grouperman1@yahoo.com

Thanks for your time and consideration in this matter.

Gary
hampshire's Avatar hampshire 02:47 PM 10-31-2007
I have read the discussion regading the Time Windows and was facinated so I went to the attic and brought my TW 1a down and the tops are warped. My TW have the nut on the bottom but I am concerned rearding taking the top off. It appears to be solid oak and some people say to gently tap the top off and others say to start at the bottom.

Jamie I saw what you did on your speakers and it left me speechless.
Can somebody direct me as to how I remove the tops so I can have two new ones made.

Thank you, Hampshire hampshirellc@hotmail.com
Tracy RainH2o's Avatar Tracy RainH2o 04:32 PM 10-31-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by hampshire View Post

My TW have the nut on the bottom but I am concerned rearding taking the top off. It appears to be solid oak and some people say to gently tap the top off and others say to start at the bottom.

Jamie I saw what you did on your speakers and it left me speechless.
Can somebody direct me as to how I remove the tops so I can have two new ones made.[/email]

You remove the nut from the bottom. There is a rod that goes through the center of the speaker. It is connected to the top. I have heard that it is a real pain to get back in if you were to pull the rod all the way out. I know the Threes are that way and I assume that the Ones are too.

As far as I know the Sevens were the only ones that you tap the top off. I could be wrong.
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 08:37 PM 10-31-2007
hampshire, thanks for the compliment.

Just to add what Tracy said; once the you remove the nut gently tap the bottom off. I usually support the speaker on two large pillows lying on its back. Be careful when you remove the bottom because the crossover is mounted to it, but there is enough wire to lay it down flat. You can then tap the top out a few inches to expose the rod. I grab it with a set of channel lock pliers and then unthread the top off by spinning the top and not the rod. The rod sometimes is stuck to the acoustical stuffing. It's best to leave it in place. Reverse the order to reassemble. It helps to use a straw or small tube slipped over the end of the rod for a guide to put the bottom back on.

Tracy, if you ever need to take tops off your sevens, they tap off backwards.
Tracy RainH2o's Avatar Tracy RainH2o 09:07 PM 10-31-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

Tracy, if you ever need to take tops off your sevens, they tap off backwards.

Yea thanks, I have had them off. My local HT guy used to be a DCM dealer. He says he has some extra tops for the Sevens. He is moving his showroom and said he would hold them for me after the move. I would really like to replace the fabric on mine but I am a big chicken. They aren't really that bad but you know how it is......they're Sevens.
hampshire's Avatar hampshire 12:37 PM 11-01-2007
Hi guys, I want to thank you for your help with my TW so now I can explain to the person how to remove the tops. I really appreciate the help.
On the TW1a is there a right and left speaker? If they had DCM emblems I could guess that they would be to the inside. I bought these in 85 and they still sound great and the fabric is perfect except they are dark brown. Again, thanx for the help and Jamie you need to quit your day job and go into the restoration business full time--- AMAZING!
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 06:33 AM 11-02-2007
Quote:


On the TW1a is there a right and left speaker?

No, only the TW3 and TW7's that are mirrored.
Tracy RainH2o's Avatar Tracy RainH2o 06:12 PM 11-06-2007
Hey Jamie. Are the TW 7 tweeters rated for more power than the CX 17's?

I bought the TW7 tweeters but never installed them in my CX 17 center. Now that I have moved everything to a larger room, the center is having to work a little more. Or, is there a way to have my center, stock CX 17, handle more power? Thanks.
Thorkle Rod's Avatar Thorkle Rod 05:53 PM 11-07-2007
Just found this site and it is very cool. I am a DCM fan I bought a set of Time Window 3's around 1990 or 91, and have enjoyed them ever since I have no technical knowledge in this area but, I like my speakes and system sounds great to me. I was able to pick up along the way, what I beleive, are a set of Time Frame Speakers. Does anyone have a decoder and or spec's for Time Frames so I can figure out what I aquired? Really enjoyed seeing that there is a whole group of people out there enjoying the same speakers that I have always thought are just amazing.
Jamie Hauser's Avatar Jamie Hauser 04:08 PM 11-08-2007
Tracy, The TW7 tweeters have a larger magnet and the diamond coating, according to Steve, allowed them to run cooler. I guess I would equate that to them being able to handle more power. They are a "physical" direct replacement for the tweeter in the CX series and Steve said that the sensitivity is fairly close. Go for it!
triple_dre's Avatar triple_dre 12:46 PM 11-09-2007
Hi, I'm so glad i found this forum!
I'm a huge DCM fan and have been looking for fellow DCM freaks for ages.

I have a couple of CX's and timeframes, and unfortunately the tweeters in some of them are broken. They're basically all the same tweeters, they look exactly like this:



I've emailed DCM a while ago and they linked me to some Audax tweeters as replacements, but since Audax doesn't exist anymore.. i'm pretty much stuck with two pairs of broken DCM's.
Now i found out that Visaton makes tweeters that look exacty like this and have pretty identical specifications as the Audax's DCM linked me to, so i think i'm going to give them a shot.

Does anyone know what other tweeters can be used as replacement?

thanks, Triple_dre
Tracy RainH2o's Avatar Tracy RainH2o 12:56 PM 11-09-2007
Those look like the tweeters in the CX 17s but it could also be a slightly different version that was used in the TW 3 or TW7 series. It's hard to say without the make and model.

I do see CX 17 drivers for sale on Ebay from time to time.
triple_dre's Avatar triple_dre 01:25 PM 11-09-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tracy RainH2o View Post

Those look like the tweeters in the CX 17s but it could also be a slightly different version that was used in the TW 3 or TW7 series. It's hard to say without the make and model.

I do see CX 17 drivers for sale on Ebay from time to time.

Thanks for the reply.
The timeframes with the broken tweeters are TF250's and TF V8.0's if that's what you mean by model.
Ironkaw's Avatar Ironkaw 06:24 PM 11-11-2007
I recently picked up a set of TF 2000s. I'm trying to get as much info as I can on them. My first question is, what is the function of the potentiometer on the bottom of these speakers? It's wired into the crossover. At first I thought it was just for tweeter adjustment, but I just can't pin down the effect it has. Second, does anyone have the tech specs, and schematics for the crossover in these speakers? And third, where can I find a large enough piece of speaker cloth to recover these monsters. I would also like to find some replacement tweeters if anyone knows of a source. The original tweeters were very flat sounding. I'm not sure if it is the age, or if that's just the way they sounded, but I have replaced them with a couple Mach 2 super radial horn tweeters until I can find some originals in good shape to try out. As they are now they sound as good as my Dahlquist DQ 9s, and that's saying something, so I'm very happy with them, but any help with these speakers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Chris
luismm's Avatar luismm 04:24 AM 11-27-2007
Hi!
First of all, sorry for my english, I´m from Argentina ...
I bought (really, when I heard them at J&R, the speakers bought me (o: ) a pair of Time Window speakers about 1980 in New York, and carried them to Argentina. After a lot or years and a lot of happiness, something was broken and an independent technician in Argentina tried to repair the speakers. They worked for some time, and problems again ..... Now I´m living in Spain, and of course the speakers are with me (travelling speakers, yes), but they are not working, and I want to repair and leave them with their original great sound as possible.
I don´t know what the technician in Argentina did with the speakers. I know the tweeters are Philips AD 0140 T8 and seems to works fine.The woofers have no information at all in the back, so I don´t know if they are original parts or they aren´t. I don´t know if the crossovers are original or not, but I have a couple of photographs, If I can, I´ll put them with this message; if not, I can send them anywhere.
Ok, that´s the story .... now, let´s go with the questions ....
First of all ... how can I know if they are TW1 or TW1a? The serial numbers are 26102 and 26103.
I would like to know which woffers can I use in case the ones that are in the speakers are not Ok.
Also, I need all the possible information about the crossovers, same as woofers.
If my english is so bad you don´t understand something, let me know, please ...
Waiting for some response, thanks a lot!!!!!
Enjoy your DCM´s, as I hope to enjoy mines soon (o:
triple_dre's Avatar triple_dre 02:42 AM 12-04-2007
Quote:
Originally Posted by luismm View Post

Hi!
First of all, sorry for my english, I´m from Argentina ...
I bought (really, when I heard them at J&R, the speakers bought me (o: ) a pair of Time Window speakers about 1980 in New York, and carried them to Argentina. After a lot or years and a lot of happiness, something was broken and an independent technician in Argentina tried to repair the speakers. They worked for some time, and problems again ..... Now I´m living in Spain, and of course the speakers are with me (travelling speakers, yes), but they are not working, and I want to repair and leave them with their original great sound as possible.
I don´t know what the technician in Argentina did with the speakers. I know the tweeters are Philips AD 0140 T8 and seems to works fine.The woofers have no information at all in the back, so I don´t know if they are original parts or they aren´t. I don´t know if the crossovers are original or not, but I have a couple of photographs, If I can, I´ll put them with this message; if not, I can send them anywhere.
Ok, that´s the story .... now, let´s go with the questions ....
First of all ... how can I know if they are TW1 or TW1a? The serial numbers are 26102 and 26103.
I would like to know which woffers can I use in case the ones that are in the speakers are not Ok.
Also, I need all the possible information about the crossovers, same as woofers.
If my english is so bad you don´t understand something, let me know, please ...
Waiting for some response, thanks a lot!!!!!
Enjoy your DCM´s, as I hope to enjoy mines soon (o:

If you have pictures (of the woofers, tweeters and crossovers) you can upload them imageshack.us or photobucket.com
streetr's Avatar streetr 10:13 PM 01-18-2008
I just found you guys. I managed the LaSalle Electronics in Rock Island, Illinois in the early '80s and we sold the heck out of some TWs. I have always wanted a pair and I am seeing more and more on eBay. When I upgraded my speakers in '03 I looked for TWs on eBay to no avail. So I ended up with Polk RTi-8s, which are nice but they ain't no TW.

Anyway I just had to thank you guys for all of the excellent info, pics and links that you provided along the way here. You have rekindled my interest in the greatest speakers ever made for the money. I had the opportunity to have Bob Waterstripe and Steve in my store back then and it was Bob's name that suddenly popped into my head that led me to this forum.

Now I feel that I can look for a set of TWs and have the resources to restore them! Keep posting those pics everyone! I would love to see more pics of your setups.

Thanks again!
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