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post #991 of 10294 Old 04-05-2007, 03:23 PM
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To AA and other pros,
Can I ask how much do I lose by getting the GS 10 instead of the GS 20?
I will be using a SVS PB12+ as well,
I will be using it in a system for music and HT 35 / 65 ratio?
It will save me about $1000 or so if I forgo the second woofer in the GS 20.

Thanks
P

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post #992 of 10294 Old 04-05-2007, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greygoos2004 View Post

the MAs are far superior to BWs 600s and 700s. I compared the GS60s to the 603 and 703s.

I could understand here, the GS-Series are their "flag-ship" products.

Quote:
Originally Posted by greygoos2004 View Post

Its only when you enter the 800 series, you can really talk about some comparison between the two. But then 800s are way too expensive in my opinion..

this is where the real comparison would be (comparing each respective flag-ship product).

I think the B&W 800 series are way too expensive (or should I say "over-priced") as well. Although they sound unbelieveably good.

But I do like what I see in the Monitor Audio GS-Series, just have'nt been able to really listen to them thoroughly.
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post #993 of 10294 Old 04-05-2007, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

I could understand here, the GS-Series are their "flag-ship" products.

I think there is a new Platinum series that is their "flag-ship", though I dont think they are out yet.
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post #994 of 10294 Old 04-05-2007, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisCollins View Post

I think there is a new Platinum series that is their "flag-ship", though I dont think they are out yet.

The Platinum line will be MUCH MUCH more expensive than the GS series. The latest shipping figure I got is August.
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post #995 of 10294 Old 04-05-2007, 05:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

I could understand here, the GS-Series are their "flag-ship" products.

this is where the real comparison would be (comparing each respective flag-ship product).

I think the B&W 800 series are way too expensive (or should I say "over-priced") as well. Although they sound unbelieveably good.

But I do like what I see in the Monitor Audio GS-Series, just have'nt been able to really listen to them thoroughly.

If you want a product to "kill" B&W's diamond tweeter then I would look to Focal Electra Be.

But purely speaking on the basis of seamless and coherent soundstage, the GS60s will be much better than any sub $10K B&W speaker. Beware the evil yellow driver.
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post #996 of 10294 Old 04-05-2007, 05:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petetherock View Post

To AA and other pros,
Can I ask how much do I lose by getting the GS 10 instead of the GS 20?
I will be using a SVS PB12+ as well,
I will be using it in a system for music and HT 35 / 65 ratio?
It will save me about $1000 or so if I forgo the second woofer in the GS 20.

Thanks
P

The GS20 is not just another woofer. You are gaining a dedicated midrange driver or in other words a true 3-way design. Some companies oddly make better bookshelfs than they do tower speakers. But, the Monitor Audio GS20 is far better than the GS10. Its really not even a competition.

Ask member "mpmct" . He had this same exact dilemna. Or maybe he will chime in.
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post #997 of 10294 Old 04-05-2007, 07:53 PM
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I just ordered the GS10's and GSLCR for my new 5.1 system but didn't pony up for the GSFX's. Any opinions on the value of getting these surrounds? I'm using a Denon 4306.
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post #998 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioArchitect View Post

The GS20 is not just another woofer. You are gaining a dedicated midrange driver or in other words a true 3-way design. Some companies oddly make better bookshelfs than they do tower speakers. But, the Monitor Audio GS20 is far better than the GS10. Its really not even a competition.

Ask member "mpmct" . He had this same exact dilemna. Or maybe he will chime in.

Chiming ...

I really liked the GS10s. I held off buying stands,
used some old things I already owned.
The GS10 stands were the only ones I wanted,
after doing some looking around.
MSRP was either $400 or $600, can't remember. Duh.
I was also interested in keeping speaker cable as short as possible
( significant benefits to short speaker cable ). So, by the time I did
the math on cable costs to reach the 24" up to the 10s, and the
cost of the stands, I started thinking about GS20s.
My rough math was, all things considered:
the 20s are only about 1/3 more than the 10s.

So I bought the 20s.

I still like the 10s very much, but the 20s are better as AA described.
The mid-range is ... not sure what adjectives to use -- smoother,
more full, but not boomy-full. And the bass is slightly more defined
too, as one would expect. Not louder, just deeper and clearer/tighter.
And the 20s displace no more space than the 10s, on stands,
so the space issue is a wash.

Free advice:
Try listening to either/both the 10s or 20s after having moved them
as far as possible from back and side walls. I have mine
now about 2.5 ft from rear wall, and 10 ft from either side wall.
Big difference!
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post #999 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioArchitect View Post

The GS20 is not just another woofer. You are gaining a dedicated midrange driver or in other words a true 3-way design.

isn't it (the GS20) technically a 2 & 1/2-way design?
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post #1000 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

isn't it (the GS20) technically a 2 & 1/2-way design?

Evidently. From MA's web site:

"... GR20 ... Its two-and-a-half way, three-driver configuration is built around a unique dual-cavity cabinet design, in which the 61/2-inch RST® II bass and bass-mid drivers work into separate enclosures, tuned to different frequencies and impedances. This provides improved power handling and delivers faster, deeper, more dynamic bass and greater transparency through the crucial mid-range. ..."

An explanation of 2.5-way, from audioholics.com ...

" 2 1/2 way systems ... employs 2 bass/mid-bass drivers usually identical in design and size and a tweeter. Usually the bottom woofer is crossed over to produce bass frequencies below 200Hz and the top woofer is crossed over to produce midrange frequencies between 200Hz - 4KHz. The interesting thing about this design is that although the two woofers are crossed over at different frequencies, they acoustically couple to synergistically enhance overall system bass response."

I'm not sure I understand any of this. Can anyone describe
this ... in 'other words'?
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post #1001 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 12:25 PM
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I can't find mention of the crossover set-up for the GS60s
anywhere on MAs site, or in their brochures.
Are the 60s also 2 1/2-way? Or 3-way?

And which is 'better'? Or is 'better' dependant on circumstances?
( I would assume it is. )

I dug this up somewhere , but I can't supply attribution for it:

"2 1/2 way ... Typically one woofer produces only bass, while the other produces midrange and bass. The purpose behind this design, aside from providing increased output at low frequencies, is to reduce comb
filtering, also known as phase cancellation in the midrange
frequencies."

Comb filtering? Phase cancellation?
Can anyone explain this, too?
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post #1002 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpmct View Post

Try listening to either/both the 10s or 20s after having moved them
as far as possible from back and side walls. I have mine
now about 2.5 ft from rear wall, and 10 ft from either side wall.
Big difference!

I agree. Same with the RS6 as well. Once I gave the RS6 a lot of breathing room, the frequency response was much more balanced, and toeing them in just right (shallow) brought the highs in line with the mids. I think if people spaced the RS6's away from walls a bit more, and adjusted the toe-in, the complaints of a recessed midrange would go away. I didn't hear a recessed midrange once I got them set up right in the dealer's room. But, I was pushing them with about $15k of Simaudio gear, so who knows... I can't wait to go back with more terrestrial gear. Monitor Audio must give their speakers quite a bit of baffle step compensation, probably a full 6 dB. Once set up right, I felt the Stereophile review was pretty spot-on. They did everything quite well, and nothing really stood out - a speaker you really can live with for a long time. I have mentioned in the past that the Ascend 340SEs had a better clarity, but remembering that when pushed, they got harsh, they may just be tipped upwards a bit. This second time around with the RS6's, I didn't feel like I was missing much in the midrange.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mpmct View Post

I'm not sure I understand any of this. Can anyone describe
this ... in 'other words'?

From my experience, a 2 1/2-way speaker is when mid-woofer doesn't have a high-pass filter. It will operate across all frequences below the tweeter crossover. The extra woofer has a low-pass filter and will start to work with the mid-woofer in the upper bass and lower midrange (~200-400hz) frequencies on down to the tuning frequency, where the port output takes over. This allows a less complicated crossover, but provides more power handling than a 2-way, at the expense of losing a dedicated midrange driver found in a 3-way (one that doesn't produce bass frequencies). A 2 1/2-way also allows a higher tweeter crossover, since interference (comb filtering) between a two woofers in a 2-way becomes worse as the frequency gets higher. Typically, a 2-way with a high tweeter crossover would have to be an MTM, as opposed to a TMM. The 2 1/2-way allows the TMM configuration which gives a shorter footprint than an MTM tower, without adding the complexity of a 3-way crossover.

Did that help at all?
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post #1003 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 02:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

isn't it (the GS20) technically a 2 & 1/2-way design?

A 2.5 way speaker is basically a speaker with a tweeter and two woofers crossed over at different frequencies. The one woofer will handle the midrange and the bass. The other woofer will ONLY handle the bass. This is obviously a huge generalization because different companies choose different crossover points but the idea is the same.

Now, the GS20 is an interesting speaker. The physical driver is not 2 woofes, it is a dedicated midrange driver and woofer. But the crossover is setup as a 2.5 way with the dedicated midrange driver playing full range except for where its crossed over with the tweeter.

This is really a gray area I guess. I has the 3-way driver configuration, but a 2.5-way crossover. I guess it depends on who you talk to.

Maybe lets call it a 2.75 way.
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post #1004 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Phase cancellation basically has to do with the degradation of the midrange frequencies due to the direct sound waves and reflected sound waves traveling to your ears out of phase. The sum of the two waves basically cancels each other (comb filtering effect), where one has a trough and the other has a crest. The result is a loss is midrange amplitude, or basically you dont hear as much midrange.

This is probably a pisspoor explanation, but hopefully it makes some sense.
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post #1005 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 02:53 PM
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Thanks AA & mpmct,
If I can't spare the space to place the speakers more than 50cm from a wall, will this be bad for the GS 20 and make me veer towards the Gs10?
Thanks
P

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post #1006 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petetherock View Post

Thanks AA & mpmct,
If I can't spare the space to place the speakers more than 50cm from a wall, will this be bad for the GS 20 and make me veer towards the Gs10?
Thanks
P


Pete, tell me if my software conversion is not accurate, but
it suggests: 50 cm = 19.68 inches.
If that's about right, from my experience, either the 10s
or the 20s will sound very good. If you can spare any
more 'forward' space, it's a gain -- again, from my experience,
in my particular space, etc etc. I can tell you that backing
either the 10s or the 20s within 6 inches of the rear wall,
or very near side walls, will hurt their performance.
I think it's about the same hit, for either the 10s or 20s,
but would of course defer to other opinions, especially
AA, who clearly has us all covered regarding MA speakers.
Thankfully.
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post #1007 of 10294 Old 04-06-2007, 04:56 PM
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Thanks for your quick reply,just to follow on, how about the LCR?
I might need to also put that within 50cm of the walls.
I have a big space now, but my final listening room might be a tad smaller, i.e. 3 by 6m by 2.5m tall?

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post #1008 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 04:54 AM
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Hi,

Does anyone know the crossover frequency between the RS6's mid-range and woofer drivers?

Thanks a lot!

If you don't walk with me, I will walk alone.
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post #1009 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 10:17 AM
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Still deciding deciding upon the best upgrade path for my home theater...

I have the following setup:

Main: GR60
Ctr: GRLCR
Surr: GRFX (x4)
Subs: Velodyne + Def Tech
Pre: Outlaw 990
Amps: 4 Vintage Soundcraftsmens

Wondered what, if any, changes would yield the "biggest" difference in my system:

Upgrade my prepro to a "higher end unit"

OR...

Upgrade my amps to newer "higher quality"

OR...

Will I notice little if any difference if I change anything?


I'm not unhappy with the current setup, but feel I could do better. I'd like to upgrade both prepro and amp, however, finances prohibit me from doing so.

Any advice is appreciated!

KK20
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post #1010 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KK20 View Post

Still deciding deciding upon the best upgrade path for my home theater...

I have the following setup:

Main: GR60
Ctr: GRLCR
Surr: GRFX (x4)
Subs: Velodyne + Def Tech
Pre: Outlaw 990
Amps: 4 Vintage Soundcraftsmens

Wondered what, if any, changes would yield the "biggest" difference in my system:

What's your room like? Dedicated? Living room? Any treatments or work been done to examine its acoustics? What's your method of calibration?

Dan


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post #1011 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 01:58 PM
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My current setup:

Fronts: GS60
Center: GSLCR
Int Amp: Yamaha RXV2700 (7.1 7x140 W/Ch
Room: L shaped living room (~20x20x9)
Music/Movie: 70%/30% (2 Ch Music preferred)


Went to visit a local MA dealer who suggested the Bryston 6B SST Amp (3x300 W/Ch) would be a good match with the GS60. I listened to a pair of GR60's and Bryston 4B SST (2x300W/Ch) and the setup sounded very impressive. I have to say I got a good emotional response while audioning with the Pink Floyd - Anothe Brick in the Wall song. Dianna K. sounded great too. The Bryston really seemed to bring out some soul from the GS 60's.

Now don't get me wrong. I have really been enojoying the GS60's with the Yamaha Amp. I can listen to music for hours. However, I find that at slightly elevated volume levels (-30 to -20 dB) I think the Yamaha might be running out of steam. Also bass could be improved upon.

If I got the Bryston, for the time being I would continue using the Yamaha as a pro/pre and use the Bryston to improve headroom/clarity/bass output out of the GS60's. I'm pacing myself so I have to do things one step at a time. What to you guys think? I don't have a problem with a used Bryston, so I'm looking at about $2500 to $5000. A good chunck of change for sure. Could I do better differently? Looking forward to all your comments.

wolfman
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post #1012 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfmanjack210 View Post

My current setup:

Fronts: GS60
Center: GSLCR
Int Amp: Yamaha RXV2700 (7.1 7x140 W/Ch
Room: L shaped living room (~20x20x9)
Music/Movie: 70%/30% (2 Ch Music preferred)


Went to visit a local MA dealer who suggested the Bryston 6B SST Amp (3x300 W/Ch) would be a good match with the GS60. I listened to a pair of GR60's and Bryston 4B SST (2x300W/Ch) and the setup sounded very impressive. I have to say I got a good emotional response while audioning with the Pink Floyd - Anothe Brick in the Wall song. Dianna K. sounded great too. The Bryston really seemed to bring out some soul from the GS 60's.

Now don't get me wrong. I have really been enojoying the GS60's with the Yamaha Amp. I can listen to music for hours. However, I find that at slightly elevated volume levels (-30 to -20 dB) I think the Yamaha might be running out of steam. Also bass could be improved upon.

If I got the Bryston, for the time being I would continue using the Yamaha as a pro/pre and use the Bryston to improve headroom/clarity/bass output out of the GS60's. I'm pacing myself so I have to do things one step at a time. What to you guys think? I don't have a problem with a used Bryston, so I'm looking at about $2500 to $5000. A good chunck of change for sure. Could I do better differently? Looking forward to all your comments.

wolfman

Bryston is a great amplifier, but since you are doing alot of music listening I think it could sound a tad dry with your speakers.

I would consider instead Parasound Halo A51, Simaudio Aurora, Halcro MC50. They will be not so dry sounding as the Bryston. Remeber Bryston is pro-audio company first and foremost so the amps will sound as such.
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post #1013 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioArchitect View Post

but hopefully it makes some sense.

thanks for all the info.........I guess a simple exlpanation of a 2.5-way configuration is such that: the mid-range (or mid-bass) driver is "sharing" more of the hi-freq range (along with the tweeter), than would, say, a dedicated mid-range driver found in a true 3-way configuration?
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post #1014 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioArchitect View Post

Bryston is a great amplifier, but since you are doing alot of music listening I think it could sound a tad dry with your speakers.

I would consider instead Parasound Halo A51, Simaudio Aurora, Halcro MC50. They will be not so dry sounding as the Bryston. Remeber Bryston is pro-audio company first and foremost so the amps will sound as such.

How would a Rotel RMB-1095 work with GS60's? Seems like the specs match well.
http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/a...rotel-rmb-1095
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post #1015 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

thanks for all the info.........I guess a simple exlpanation of a 2.5-way configuration is such that: the mid-range (or mid-bass) driver is "sharing" more of the hi-freq range (along with the tweeter), than would, say, a dedicated mid-range driver found in a true 3-way configuration?

The simple explanation is in a 2.5 way configuration

tweeter plays highs
1 midwoofer plays all the mids AND bass
1 woofer plays JUST bass

The 3 way configuration

tweeters plays highs
1 midrange plays all just mids
1 woofer plays JUST bass

This is a generalization, but applies to most like designs.
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post #1016 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 04:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastD View Post

How would a Rotel RMB-1095 work with GS60's? Seems like the specs match well.
http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/a...rotel-rmb-1095

The Rotel should be more than enough power.

Also, consider the Parasound Classic 5250. Parasound has always been an awesome pairing with Monitor Audio.
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post #1017 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 05:06 PM
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I was recently showing my speakers to a friend and they asked me where the speakers were made. Frankly, I never asked this question when I purchased them, and I can't seem to find any of the info on their website or on the speakers themselves. Anyone have any idea?


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post #1018 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaDequipment View Post

I was recently showing my speakers to a friend and they asked me where the speakers were made. Frankly, I never asked this question when I purchased them, and I can't seem to find any of the info on their website or on the speakers themselves. Anyone have any idea?

All the drivers and crossovers are designed and made in the UK. Final assembly of the cabinets with the drivers are done in Malaysia.

The Gold Signature and upcoming Platinum line are 100% assembled in the UK still.
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post #1019 of 10294 Old 04-08-2007, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KK20 View Post

Still deciding deciding upon the best upgrade path for my home theater...

I have the following setup:

Main: GR60
Ctr: GRLCR
Surr: GRFX (x4)
Subs: Velodyne + Def Tech
Pre: Outlaw 990
Amps: 4 Vintage Soundcraftsmens

Wondered what, if any, changes would yield the "biggest" difference in my system:

Upgrade my prepro to a "higher end unit"

OR...

Upgrade my amps to newer "higher quality"

OR...

Will I notice little if any difference if I change anything?


I'm not unhappy with the current setup, but feel I could do better. I'd like to upgrade both prepro and amp, however, finances prohibit me from doing so.

Any advice is appreciated!

Someone replied to my post and it is now GONE!

They noted several upgrades they had made with slight but not significant improvements. Their final comment was amusing and, possibly telling: save your money and use it on a vacation.

If you are that individual PM me as I'm curious as to what happened to your post!

KK20
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post #1020 of 10294 Old 04-09-2007, 04:05 PM
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I'm interested in the Radius 250's, surrounds & sub but haven't been able to get any sales support for some reason. The dealer for Oklahoma won't return my calls. I also hit a dead-end going through the contact form on the website. Not sure what else to do, so I'm looking for suggestions here as my last attempt. Monitor Audio is well respected in these forums so I am assuming that my experience is an exception. Feel free to send me a PM if you are a dealer.

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