Need a new setup - Polk Audio R30's suck - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willd View Post

Then imagine what a $650 DIY speaker would accomplish. I've read first-hand accounts of the speaker that he is building beating out the Ascend 340s.

There really isn't much he could do to mess this up. This isn't rocket science. The cabinets are pretty much built for him (included in that cost is pre-built finished cabinets from PE, and they are quite nice), and the crossover isn't that bad. That part will take him the longest. But still...the only reason you or anyone else needs a warranty on the speaker you buy, is because you probably don't have access to the specific drivers that were used. A crossover component isn't going to die for no reason, out of the blue. If for some reason, one of his drivers die, I have no doubt that PE would hook him up.

I'd be much obliged if you could provide a link to that comparison, not that I doubt you.

Yeah, it's the crossover assembly that would worry me the most, I get a bit nervous anytime more than 2 wires are involved.
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post #92 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 11:18 AM - Thread Starter
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I have good soldering and wiring skills. I soldered a small chip back onto a hard drive once. The drive still works. My wood-working skills are bad, i.e. never did any woodworking in my life. Maybe in shop class in the 7th grade, but that's it. Which worries me about routing on black gloss finished cabinets. Which reminds me, I have no clue how to transfer the exact size and shape of the drivers onto the cabinets, nor how to do that indent around the edge of the holes (I think it's called a bevel) to mount the drivers flush with the cabinet front.

And the tools will last quite a long time. Screws, disconnects, wire, glue, solder, iron, wick, all that will last a long time, though I tend to go through iron tips quickly.

Whatever works for other people works for other people. If you think you can't build speakers, then go ahead and buy them already built. Some things are better bought built.

This reminds me of my R/C Helicopter experiences. The first R/C helicopter I bought was a Gas-powered Helicopter kit. $1200 investment. Put it together myself. It crashed horribly. $1200 down the drain. But I didn't know what I was doing, and should have bought a cheaper one. The next one I bought was a miniature electronic Helicopter. $400 investment. I got further with that one than I did with the more expensive one.

Moral of this story is to go with the cheap DIY kit first, then move onto the more expensive stuff.

I could have saved a lot of time and energy and bought a pre-built one to learn how to fly it first, but I wanted to get the satisfaction of building it myself. If you crash a pre-built one, you can't take it back to the store and tell them "I crashed this, give me my money back". They'll point and laugh at you. However, if you crash one you built yourself, you can take it apart and sell the parts at half-price, or fix it yourself because you know what went wrong, or what broke.

If you break those expensive store-bought or internet-bought speakers and they're under warranty, you can send them back to the store and get replacements. If they're not under warranty when they break, which is usually the case, then you're screwed. Break ones you built yourself, and you can replace the part yourself because you know what broke.

I've already built a pair of Dayton BR-1 speakers. They were a $150 investment. I did them correctly and they sounded pretty good. So I'm going for a more expensive investment this time. I'll start with 1 speaker and see how it turns out. If it works, I'll use it as a center speaker until I got the money to build another.
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post #93 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edster922 View Post

I'd be much obliged if you could provide a link to that comparison, not that I doubt you.

Yeah, it's the crossover assembly that would worry me the most, I get a bit nervous anytime more than 2 wires are involved.

Sure. 3rd post down.

I forgot, a cheaper MTM design, using the smaller 6" drivers, was being used. This one.


I had never built a crossover in my life and only done minimal soldering, but had no problems.
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post #94 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I was originally leaning away from the Nat P's just because of the name. Natalie P's? C'mon, they sound like a girlie speaker. I expected them to be pink with flowers on them. Then I realized it must be a girl name like people name their boats with girl names.

And after that comparison; these are no girlie speakers. :P
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post #95 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 12:38 PM
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The Natalie P is not a girlie speaker Did you take a look at my in-room FR sweep? I built my Natalie P's around the 1ft^3 design and tuned them to ~32hz. I get output into the upper 28's in room. This is almost enough bass to use without a sub (for most music)..these will be a monumental improvement over your polks, especially with clarity,SQ, and bass extension in mind. I watch half of Star Wars one night before realizing my BFD was off.. :-D

Only time will tell what the future holds...so until then JAM LIKE THERES NO TOMORROW!
-Rob


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post #96 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 12:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Not sure what "tuning" them means.
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post #97 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 12:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I might be able to make these sooner than I thought. I'm selling my gamecube and games for the cube and PS2 on ebay, so.. hopefully that will yield some cash to start with. I gotta get one extra thing, which is a center channel stand to mount the center speaker on top of my HDTV (too skinny to put it up there by itself) and then I can start buying tools and stuff. I can't sell the R30s yet, 'cause I won't have enough money to build 2 of these speakers.
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post #98 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDHarding View Post

Not sure what "tuning" them means.

Its the tuning frequency of the enclosure. If you build yours to spec (like recommended in the original design, yours will be tuned to 32Hz as well).

They will have very impressive bass response, no doubt.
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post #99 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I usually listen at flat EQ levels, so hopefully these sound good without EQ adjustments.
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post #100 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Not much info about whether or not foam or stuffing should be added on the inside of these. Maybe it's not needed.
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post #101 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDHarding View Post

Not much info about whether or not foam or stuffing should be added on the inside of these. Maybe it's not needed.

You could certainly get by without it. Stuffing isn't necessary if you line the walls with some foam.

Quote:


I usually listen at flat EQ levels, so hopefully these sound good without EQ adjustments.

They were designed to be as accurate/neutral as possible.
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post #102 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I just thought of an idea. Looking through the Nat P forum over at HT Guide, I noticed someone put their Nat P's on top of DIY subs. I'm curious if it's possible to build skinnier subs so I can build stands exactly the same width as the Nat P's. Or maybe dual driver subs. Like 5-7 inch drivers. I can't build huge subs for these, 'cause I'm putting my Nat P's in my bedroom. There's enough room for floor standing speakers not much bigger than my Polk R30s.

Too bad my bed is in here.. do I need a bed?

I've got my 30-inch wide slimfit HDTV, AV components, and my computer desk and components in my bedroom. I'd love to combine the computer, HDTV, and AV components together, but I've never found a desk that can pull off holding a 100lb television on top of it. Plus I have my 19-inch monitor, so the TV would have to go above the monitor. It'd look really weird.

I live with my parents.. which is why room space is a dilemma.
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post #103 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 05:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Is it possible to use the Parts Express 1cu ft. cabinets as subwoofers? I don't know if they're big enough to install an 8 inch subwoofer or amp.
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post #104 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 06:19 PM
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Well...maybe, but I wouldn't try. How much of your listening will be movies? For music, IMO, these will supply enough bass. They will surprise you, I think, with the extension and authority they have in the lower frequencies.

I'd suggest finding a place in your room where you can fit a sub, and put one there.
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post #105 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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I guess I can stick one in the corner.
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post #106 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Willd View Post

Sure. 3rd post down.

thanks.

I'm familiar with Mr. --k-- and respect his opinion. Geez, now I want to hear a pair of those things myself!
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post #107 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edster922 View Post

thanks.

I'm familiar with Mr. --k-- and respect his opinion. Geez, now I want to hear a pair of those things myself!

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post #108 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
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I guess I can stick one in the corner.

How big is your room? You should consider one of the Rythmik Audio
kits. You could even buy an enclosure ( like this one ) and you would be all set.
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post #109 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Gee.. $450 for the kit and $125 for the enclosure? No thanks..
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post #110 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDHarding View Post

Gee.. $450 for the kit and $125 for the enclosure? No thanks..

What would be your budget/size limit then?
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post #111 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I'll just go with Dayton's cheap 10" kit.
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post #112 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 08:15 PM
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What about this driver ~ http://www.mach5audio.com/product_in...1a2ad4bb387612
And this amp ~ http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?...5Fid=50%2D6263

Figure $210(w/ shipping) or so plus wood/finish materials.
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post #113 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I can get my brother to do any wood work. He's built stuff before, and he's got all the tools. I'd just screw something up. I'm good with electronics, not wood.
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post #114 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Even at $210, the cabinet would cost $125 anyway, so it'd still be $335. It's easier to get the kit, since it's got everything needed and is already cut and ready.
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post #115 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 08:30 PM
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Well you don't have to buy the cabinet, you said you're brother is good at woodworking. A sub box is pretty simple to construct, I have a hand saw and just got Home Depot to cut all my wood, then used a friend's jig saw to construct my box:
It's really not that bad.
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post #116 of 356 Old 08-07-2006, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Home Depot cuts wood?

Anyway, it'd still require routing and sanding and glueing and finish..
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post #117 of 356 Old 08-08-2006, 12:01 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I'd rather go with a sub woofer. That one is just an 18-inch woofer.
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post #118 of 356 Old 08-08-2006, 01:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's what I got for the crossover. I hope this is right.

Crossover Parts List:

(3) 027-430 12uF
(1) 027-440 30uF
(3) 027-410 1.0uF
(2) 027-400 0.1uF
(1) 027-428 10uF
(1) 027-418 3uF
(1) 004-20 20 OHM
(1) 004-6 6 OHM
(1) 015-.47 0.47 OHM
(1) 255-226 0.44mH
(1) 255-400 0.20mH
(1) 266-355 1.2mH

This looks odd, but these are the parts I'll need for 1 crossover. Some caps have to be combined to get the right results.
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post #119 of 356 Old 08-08-2006, 06:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh, and one other thing.. since I'm building the NatPs for front and center speakers and I got a subwoofer lined up, what do I do about the 4 surround speakers? Did the designer of the Nat P's design a small surround speaker? I only got room for wall mountable speakers.
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post #120 of 356 Old 08-08-2006, 06:29 PM
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