Need a new setup - Polk Audio R30's suck - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 356 Old 08-21-2006, 08:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I might be able to stack the caps on top of each other to save room.
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post #182 of 356 Old 08-21-2006, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Anyone know what a DAC is for and why anyone would want one? Isn't digital processing what the receiver is for? Or do DACs have better quality conversion?
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post #183 of 356 Old 08-21-2006, 08:51 PM
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I might be able to stack the caps on top of each other to save room.

Sure you can.

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Anyone know what a DAC is for and why anyone would want one? Isn't digital processing what the receiver is for? Or do DACs have better quality conversion?

DACs are for digital to analog conversion...and you already have one in your receiver. DACs are nothing new, and they are present in many, many audio products from iPods/CD Players to Receivers.
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post #184 of 356 Old 08-21-2006, 09:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I know what DACs are, just wondered what the stand-alone DACs were for.

Maybe they're for audiophiles.
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post #185 of 356 Old 08-21-2006, 09:17 PM
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Yeah I know what DACs are, just wondered what the stand-alone DACs were for.

Maybe they're for audiophiles.

Show me an example of the type of stand-alone DAC you are talking about.

They make sense in a pro-audio setting if separates are being used. Think a dac+preamp+amp...something like that.

Some 'audiophiles' do use stand-alone DACs, yeah.
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post #186 of 356 Old 08-21-2006, 11:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, stand-alone DACs are pretty hard to find any more online unless I go to ebay. But they're usually over $1,000, which just doesn't make any sense considering even a cheap receiver will still do a good digital to analog conversion.

Though, looking for DACs I did happen to stumble across a lot of surround sound processors, which typically are DACs. I think after I get 4 of these A500 behringer amps, I'll try getting my hands on an actual processor to replace my receiver. No point in keeping the receiver if I ain't using the watts. I'm glad the Behringer is so cheap compared to other amps. I thought I'd have to go buy some expensive $1,000+ amplifier that's only 50 watts per channel or something equally moronic.
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post #187 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Outlaw Audio's cheaper pre-amp is only around $700, but still too steep for my tastes. There's no pre-amps with build-in surround DACs and a lot of digital plugins (optical and coax) for a low price. I don't care about the video or RCA plugins. I don't use them. All I need is the digital inputs and RCA pre-outs for the amps.
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post #188 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 02:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I have the parts! Woohoo!

The pictures do not do these drivers justice. The tweeters are awesome looking. For $50 I think they're worth it. So much better than those Dayton BR-1 tweeters.

The laminate I chose is way better looking in person than it did online. I got the Dayton black vinyl textured stuff. Very nice. I previously bought a roll of Dayton laminate that had that fake wood grain design on it, much like the stuff on my Polk R30s. But this laminate is far better looking stuff.

And the Dayton premium binding posts are deffinately worth the $10 a pair. These are some tough heavy-duty posts.

Oddly enough, the L2 inductors are green. They show as red online, but they're actually green. I don't think the color changes anything, though.

I can't wait to put this stuff together. I'll solder the crossovers first, then hopefully build the cabinets this weekend when I have time. Wood glue is supposed to sit for 24 hours, but I don't know if I can wait that long.
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post #189 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDHarding View Post

Outlaw Audio's cheaper pre-amp is only around $700, but still too steep for my tastes. There's no pre-amps with build-in surround DACs and a lot of digital plugins (optical and coax) for a low price. I don't care about the video or RCA plugins. I don't use them. All I need is the digital inputs and RCA pre-outs for the amps.

This is the only other "budget" processor I can think of.

Besides buying a used receiver that has pre-outs. I've heard good things, minus the Dobly PLII issue that is currently being fixed with a firmware update.

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The pictures do not do these drivers justice. The tweeters are awesome looking. For $50 I think they're worth it. So much better than those Dayton BR-1 tweeters.

I know dude...the Reference midwoofers look hot. And the reference tweeter is most definitely light-years better than the BR-1 tweeter. IIRC, Jon Marsh considers the RS28a the best "budget" tweeter (<$60 I guess) on the market.

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post #190 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Hmmm... nice.

And it's around my price range.

Has less optical inputs, but I only use 2 now as it is. And I only use 1 coax. Nothing else is connected to my Yamaha.

Is Emotiva a good company?
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post #191 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 02:49 PM
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AV123/Emotive/Mark Schifter are very good, IMO. The customer service is some of the best out there. Like I said, the only problem I know of it having was an issue where it wouldn't allow DPLII processing on the digital inputs, but after a lot of customers raised hell on the boards, they agreed to fix the firmware. Everyone said that the SQ was great, though.

There are some threads here in the receivers/processors section, and of course on the AV123 website (but you'd have to expect some biased opinions there). Still a lot of good info. It is a product to consider, for sure.
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post #192 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Huh..

Well I already managed to break one part. The green L2 inductors. One of the leads busted right off. Yay.
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post #193 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 04:25 PM
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Huh..

Well I already managed to break one part. The green L2 inductors. One of the leads busted right off. Yay.

Eh? You should be able to fix it though...right? How did you break the lead off an inductor?
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post #194 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 08:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Broke the inner lead off right at the rip-tie while trying to move it around in the position I wanted it. Managed to fix it, though had to cut some of the wire off.

Anyway, after several grueling hours I finally finished one crossover.

I hope it's okay. I hooked it up to the speakers and it sounds good. I put the woofers inside cardboard boxes and they produce good bass. Just need to get the cabinets finished.

Tweeter sounds good in or out of a box, doesn't matter. It's very nice and very clear.

Just testing some mp3s from Kingdom Hearts 2.. I can tell as I turn the volume up that once these are in cabinets, they're gonna be loud. And only one woofer is hooked up at the moment. Hee..
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post #195 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 08:33 PM
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Sounds great.

Yeah, they should play very loud, very clean/distortion free. Having fun yet?
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post #196 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 10:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Not really..

The other crossover is finished.. just about to test it.
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post #197 of 356 Old 08-22-2006, 10:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Yep.. it works.

Gonna have to eventually redo these crossovers and maybe etch my own crossover board for a cleaner look, 'cause these look terrible. I used silver solder, and I don't think it flows well.
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post #198 of 356 Old 08-23-2006, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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It's interesting how different the Polk R30 tweeters are compared to the Dayton RS28As. The Polk's are thin with a tiny magnet and look like cracker wafers. The RS28As are big and heavy with a huge magnet. What kind of ripoff is Polk trying to pull. And these are the same tweeters they've used in bookshelf AND the center speaker I own.

Personally, I think Polk gets their tweeters out of crackerjack boxes.
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post #199 of 356 Old 08-23-2006, 01:27 PM
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You're just discovering the difference in quality between proper drivers, and the garbage that is put in cheap mass-produced speakers. Enjoy...
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post #200 of 356 Old 08-23-2006, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Even the tweeters in the BR-1s were better than Polk's garbage.

I had no idea..

And here I was considering buying Polk's MTM tower speakers. That wouldn't have helped the problem at all. I would have wasted $400 more on crappy speakers.

My eyes have been open!

Like this:

I've got the R30s hooked back up to my receiver. I already miss the other speakers, even though they have no enclosures.

Hmm.. not much else to do right now. I don't have any more questions.

Thanks for answering all of my questions thus far.
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post #201 of 356 Old 08-23-2006, 02:11 PM
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My eyes have been open!

One down, thousands to go.


I can't wait to hear your final impressions after you have the speakers fully finished and hooked up.
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post #202 of 356 Old 08-23-2006, 09:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Whew. Audio Cap Theta caps are expensive. If I want to build a high quality crossover later, it's gonna cost me an arm and a leg. Literally.
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post #203 of 356 Old 08-23-2006, 09:22 PM
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You don't mean build another xover for these natalie Ps, right? why would you do that?
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post #204 of 356 Old 08-23-2006, 11:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Heh.. just wishful thinking.

Anyway, I need to build another crossover anyway 'cause I uh.. I tried taking these apart to put them together neater and messed them up even worse. I don't think Parts Express warranties cover stupidity.
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post #205 of 356 Old 08-24-2006, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's a question for ya..

If I'm combining two caps to make a single value, do the caps have to have their leads twisted together or can they just be in the same path together side by side?
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post #206 of 356 Old 08-24-2006, 10:31 AM
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AFAIK, as long as the electical connection is made, you are fine. So twisting their leads together is not necessary, I believe.
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post #207 of 356 Old 08-24-2006, 03:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright. I'll see what I can do with these new parts. I want to try doing it like Jon did it in his Modula MTM 1 HP crossover, with the wires connecting all of the leads together.

It looks spiffy like that.
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post #208 of 356 Old 08-24-2006, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I ran out of money. I don't have enough for the wood now. Whee.

Anyone want to buy some Polk Audio R30 speakers?
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post #209 of 356 Old 08-24-2006, 11:08 PM - Thread Starter
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I guess it's not the solder that's the problem. It's trying to solder copper wire to the leads. So I gotta figure out how to tin the copper wire. I was going to use in-wall electrical wiring with the solid cores, but they're pure copper. I can't solder on that stuff.

How do you tin copper wire?
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post #210 of 356 Old 08-24-2006, 11:11 PM
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Just tin it with regular electrical solder....right?
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