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post #7231 of 7255 Old 07-26-2014, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SeaNile View Post
I am going to start all over with my music library in an attempt to get the best quality files so they sound good on the new system. I have a couple of questions. I can use either a Mac or PC to rip the CD's and then transfer to the Salk StreamPlayer. What program do you recommend to rip the CD's to the highest quality resolution? Then use mPad and mPod as the remote?

As for connections....I am going to buy a CD/DVD/BR player, to watch movies on in the family room and to listen to a few 5.1 and SACD mixes I have. Should I get the Oppo 105 or the 103? Is the DAC better in the Hegel or the Oppo?

I'm going to connect the StreamPlayer to the Salk via USB? How should I connect the Oppo...digitial/optical?

If I connect the Oppo via analog outs then I am not using the DAC in the Hegel?

Sorry for all the questions. Total digital newbie trying to make my new system as good as possible.

Thanks.
The highest quality rip will be CD quality. I've ripped all my CDs with iTunes in Apple lossless format so I'm getting bit for bit plus file size compression. You can drive yourself crazy on some of the theoretical CD stuff. My suggestion is see what file formats the server plays and then rip to the lossless format (FLAC or ALAC) and go from there. I use ALAC (Apple Lossless Audio Codec) because I can play it on iTunes and on my iOS devices natively. There is no quality difference between FLAC and ALAC.

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post #7232 of 7255 Old 07-26-2014, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuluwalker View Post
How many owners have jumped in and gone all the way by buying a pair of Salon or Salon2's? And how many owners graduated from entry to flagship?

Were there reasons that you may share with us?
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Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post
zuluwalker meet ADTG.
ADTG, zulu.

I didn't go straight to the flagship but straight to the Studio2s.
I'm not sure I would buy a flagship anything, too expensive for the improvement, imo.
Well, we all had to start somewhere.

At one point, I owned a Bose cube 2.1 setup.

But I quickly learned and stepped up to NHT my sophomore year.

During my junior year, I was more in fraternity parties and got a Definitive Technology BP7000SC + BP7001SC + CLR3000 + SC Trinity system.

But seriously, the Salon2 or Studio2 are awesome speakers. The speakers, amps, and processors we end up with has more to do with "fitting" our needs and applications, not because the speakers aren't awesome or other speakers are more superb.

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post #7233 of 7255 Old 07-26-2014, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaNile View Post
I am going to start all over with my music library in an attempt to get the best quality files so they sound good on the new system. I have a couple of questions. I can use either a Mac or PC to rip the CD's and then transfer to the Salk StreamPlayer. What program do you recommend to rip the CD's to the highest quality resolution? Then use mPad and mPod as the remote?

As for connections....I am going to buy a CD/DVD/BR player, to watch movies on in the family room and to listen to a few 5.1 and SACD mixes I have. Should I get the Oppo 105 or the 103? Is the DAC better in the Hegel or the Oppo?

I'm going to connect the StreamPlayer to the Salk via USB? How should I connect the Oppo...digitial/optical?

If I connect the Oppo via analog outs then I am not using the DAC in the Hegel?

Sorry for all the questions. Total digital newbie trying to make my new system as good as possible.

Thanks.
Do not apologize for questions we all started from somewhere and I'd say you're off to a damn good start.
I don't know about MAC stuff only my experience with Windows.
For CDs DBPowerAmp is what I use.
For hi-res I use DVD Audio Extractor and DVDFab Passkey to bypass Blu-ray encryption.
Check out the Computer Audiophile web site for lots of good info.

As far as your Hegel and Salk Streamer all I can say is read the manuals.
Jim Salk is a great guy and will answer any of your questions about his gear.
Generally if you connect a source to a pre-amp etc. via analog, it will bypass the digital circuits but I briefly looked through the Hegel docs and it looks like
analog connections will still use their DAC-Loop circuit.
That Hegel is a really nice integrated amp.
Matched FETs, 10 per channel, a 1KVA power supply and decent capacitance.
Very solid. The Hegel integrated I heard some time ago was excellent.
Definitely not pedestrian gear.

 

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post #7234 of 7255 Old 07-29-2014, 01:29 PM
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Inside that link it states "If you are brave enough, you can cut them off in two minutes and your system will sound much sweeter and smoother in the high frequencies."

OMG, as crazy as it sounded in the beginning of this topic, is so tempting to try on my 208s...

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post #7235 of 7255 Old 07-29-2014, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by losservatore View Post
IMO the two wires on those revel tweeters are there to protect the tweeter or just for Aesthetic , but the ones on the revel performa 3 look that they are to enhance the high frequencies.if you remove those on the revel Performa 3 probably the top high frequencies roll off and could affect sound details.


This info may help you.


http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr...ansen+speakers
Sorry I messed up my last post. Concerning this one, it states in the link

"If you are brave enough, you can cut them off in two minutes and your system will sound much sweeter and smoother in the high frequencies."

Very tempting!
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post #7236 of 7255 Old 08-09-2014, 08:03 AM
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Just got permission to post these Spin-o-rama graphs. I thought they might be helpful for anyone considering the Performa3 series but wondering which models to buy.

Some commentary:

The speakers are really more similar than they are different. They are all basically flat on-axis and have very similar directivity patterns that closely approximate constant directivity from 700hz to 7khz. The plots may be more hashy than people are used to seeing in audio publications because Harman's anechoic chamber allows them to do higher resolution measurements, but don't be fooled, this represents excellent performance. Now onto the speakers,

M105: The on-axis performance shows some diffraction effects, but the more perceptually relevant listening window is perhaps the flattest and smoothest of all. The early reflections and sound power plots are also similarly smooth, but with the shape of these plots I would expect this speaker to measure more flat in a room than is usually seen.

M106: Flat and smooth with a gradually declining sound power without the plateau that can be seen with the F206 and M105. There's a very slight bump in the sound power after the crossover, but it's pretty small. I don't see a lot more bass extension than the M105, but instead a small midbass hump and about a decibel more sensitivity.

F206: Less flat axial response than I was expecting. It seems to have traded on-axis performance for off-axis and in-room response.

F208: This one is the best behaved on-axis and a listening window about as smooth as the M105's. It has the more typical gradually declining sound power, and it is also quite smooth. Being by far the largest speaker, it is also the most sensitive.

Overall, in my (somewhat biased) opinion, the M105 and the F208 are the ones to have.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Performa 3 Graph compliation.jpg (445.8 KB, 41 views)
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Theater room: Sony VPL HW30ES, DIY 100" screen with Seymour Centerstage XD, 5 Revel M105, 2 JBL Studio 210, 4 SVS SB12-NSD, Anthem MRX-300
Living room: Panasonic TC-P60VT60, 3 KEF LS50, Pioneer SW-8, Marantz NR1603
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post #7237 of 7255 Old 08-09-2014, 02:37 PM
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I guess that helps support feedback that the F208s are one of the gems of a very good Performa3 line.
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post #7238 of 7255 Old 08-09-2014, 05:16 PM
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Recently, I felt the sound of my Right Salon was not quite right.

Irv (over at Audioholics) suggested playing tones to identify the driver. As I suspected, the mid-range driver is not performing well.
There are extra tones at 2kHz, 3.2kHz and 4kHz.
I have attached spectrum measurements of the left and right channel playing a 1khz tone.

I sent an email to Revel. Hopefully, they still stock replacement drivers. :Fingers Crossed:

- Rich
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File Type: jpg SalonleftSpectrum.jpg (318.4 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg SalonRightSpectrum.jpg (351.2 KB, 11 views)
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post #7239 of 7255 Old 08-09-2014, 09:58 PM
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Well, I am ready to post. I now have nearly a 100 hours on them and I super happy with the results.

I am powering them off of three Sherbourn 5-200 amps, and a Marantz AV-8801.

The results are insane!

I will post the pics in this, so people don't have a scrolling nightmare. See pics below. Cheers


Revel Performa3
F-208 Front L/R
C-208 Center
F-206 Wides L/R
M-105 Heights L/R
S-206 Surround L/R
S-206 Surround Back L/R























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post #7240 of 7255 Old 08-10-2014, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuluwalker View Post
Well, I am ready to post. I now have nearly a 100 hours on them and I super happy with the results.

I am powering them off of three Sherbourn 5-200 amps, and a Marantz AV-8801.

The results are insane!

I will post the pics in this, so people don't have a scrolling nightmare. See pics below. Cheers

Revel Performa3
F-208 Front L/R
C-208 Center
F-206 Wides L/R
M-105 Heights L/R
S-206 Surround L/R
S-206 Surround Back L

Very nice !
What type of mount are you using for the M-105's?


Rich
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post #7241 of 7255 Old 08-10-2014, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RichB View Post
Very nice !
What type of mount are you using for the M-105's?


Rich
Thanks Rich. It is a custom mount. I designed it and my friend welded it for me. The M-105 look as if they float in the room. The mount has 30 degrees of toe in, with spacing in the plate for me to adjust to another 7 degrees in either direction. The downward angle is 23 degrees to line up with my back row on a riser.

The M-105 has a T-nuts under it that bolt directly to the mount.

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post #7242 of 7255 Old 08-10-2014, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuluwalker View Post
Thanks Rich. It is a custom mount. I designed it and my friend welded it for me. The M-105 look as if they float in the room. The mount has 30 degrees of toe in, with spacing in the plate for me to adjust to another 7 degrees in either direction. The downward angle is 23 degrees to line up with my back row on a riser.

The M-105 has a T-nuts under it that bolt directly to the mount.

That's cool. There used to be more options for mounting speakers. You have to get creative these days.


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post #7243 of 7255 Old 08-11-2014, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post
Recently, I felt the sound of my Right Salon was not quite right.

Irv (over at Audioholics) suggested playing tones to identify the driver. As I suspected, the mid-range driver is not performing well.
There are extra tones at 2kHz, 3.2kHz and 4kHz.
I have attached spectrum measurements of the left and right channel playing a 1khz tone.

I sent an email to Revel. Hopefully, they still stock replacement drivers. :Fingers Crossed:

- Rich
Rich B.

I've already had to replace the midranges in my Salons and Voice.. Mine failed in exactly the same way. Although they aren't likely to come right out and admit it, it's a known weakness with the model. I'm not exactly sure what the issue is, and they don't seem to want to share that info. Last time I checked the midrange replacements were available, but they aren't cheap ($300+ if I recall correctly).. For a while they were "unobtainium" while they came up with replacements, but I think that hurdle has been overcome. So far so good with my replacements, but the swap was a bit more of a PITA than I was hoping for. The double sided foam sealing tape was more of a challenge than I'd hoped. But, once they are out, if you are good with a soldering iron, you won't likely have any issues. (my soldering skills are crap..)

Best of luck!
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post #7244 of 7255 Old 08-11-2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ECS01 View Post
Rich B.

I've already had to replace the midranges in my Salons and Voice.. Mine failed in exactly the same way. Although they aren't likely to come right out and admit it, it's a known weakness with the model. I'm not exactly sure what the issue is, and they don't seem to want to share that info. Last time I checked the midrange replacements were available, but they aren't cheap ($300+ if I recall correctly).. For a while they were "unobtainium" while they came up with replacements, but I think that hurdle has been overcome. So far so good with my replacements, but the swap was a bit more of a PITA than I was hoping for. The double sided foam sealing tape was more of a challenge than I'd hoped. But, once they are out, if you are good with a soldering iron, you won't likely have any issues. (my soldering skills are crap..)

Best of luck!
I did not realize that the Voice has the same 4" midrange.
I confirmed with Revel and ordered two replacement midranges for $280 total since they recommended upgrading them in pairs.

A couple of years ago, It took 8 months to get my Center Channel midrange since they moved the production (to China, I think).
After pressing on the right-midrange it exhibits the same scratching noise that my Voice midrange did. Apparently, the glue breaks down and bollixes up the works.
From an earlier call to Revel, I was told that all Voice midrange drivers will fail eventually.
So this problem may not have been my fault.

I have a couple of EE friends that will assist in the procedure and my surgical sheet with a whole cut to expose target area

Thank for the info an support,

Rich

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post #7245 of 7255 Old 08-11-2014, 12:43 PM
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Excellent - I'm happy to see that I was wrong about the price at least.. Maybe I should get an extra pair just in case!
The rest of the info pretty much matches up with what I'd heard - with a few extra details to boot. I'm practically positive it's not your fault as this is a known issue, and I'm sure you'll be happy once they are replaced and back in action. Best of luck!
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post #7246 of 7255 Old 08-13-2014, 06:54 AM
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Holy Sh!t Zulu dang nice!
I totally overlooked the S-206 surrounds.
After I get a few other things squared away in the house I'm thinking of replacing the LCR HT-2 Salks in my music\theater room with F-208s maybe next year.
How do you like the 206 surrounds?
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post #7247 of 7255 Old 08-13-2014, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post
Holy Sh!t Zulu dang nice!
I totally overlooked the S-206 surrounds.
After I get a few other things squared away in the house I'm thinking of replacing the LCR HT-2 Salks in my music\theater room with F-208s maybe next year.
How do you like the 206 surrounds?
Thanks!



I am loving them. They are amazing. I have been experimenting with them vs my F-208's vs my other M-105's! Honestly having a blast!

Only one I didn't buy was the M-106 and C-205. Pretty much a full house. Which means I get to use my own home to examine them against one another fairly. Same gear, same room. Just love the sound.


Last edited by zuluwalker; 08-13-2014 at 07:46 PM.
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post #7248 of 7255 Old 08-14-2014, 09:22 AM
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Umm, I see what looks like enough room to wedge in another sub to right of your center channel.
It looks so bare

 

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post #7249 of 7255 Old 08-15-2014, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuluwalker View Post
Thanks!



I am loving them. They are amazing. I have been experimenting with them vs my F-208's vs my other M-105's! Honestly having a blast!

Only one I didn't buy was the M-106 and C-205. Pretty much a full house. Which means I get to use my own home to examine them against one another fairly. Same gear, same room. Just love the sound.

That's an impressive room full of Revels! Bet they sound great. I had two pair of f208 in the house for a while, and was tempted to run both sets in my 2-channel setup at the same time, just for fun. I have a second pre-amp output available, and second amp, but never got around to trying it out.

I think you've got a lot of great sound ahead of you zulu
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post #7250 of 7255 Old 08-18-2014, 05:47 PM
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I was wondering if I can get some advice? I'm running a umc 200, xpa 3, F208s, C 206 and just picked up an SVS PB13 ULTRA.
My problem lies with the Ultra. I hook it up, run the EMO-Q. When running the room correction I was thinking, wow the sub is going to rock. Well it set my crossover to large which sounded good. I called SVS and they let me know at what settings everything should be. They said to keep the sub at -7 to start. I play it for my wife and she was like "you spent that much money on that for that." What am I missing? Does the F208 pick up that much to where the Sub doesn't even have to work?
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post #7251 of 7255 Old 08-18-2014, 05:57 PM
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Change your F208 to small and crossover at 80Hz to start. Adjust crossover frequency to taste. Did you do the sub crawl or any type of room measurements to find the proper place for you sub or did you just put it where it looks good? How big is your room, is it sealed or does it open to other rooms and how far are you from your sub? A PB13 Ultra is amazing in a 1000^3ft room. Not so much in a 20,000^3ft room.
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post #7252 of 7255 Old 08-18-2014, 06:35 PM
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I did not do a crawl as you probably know that thing is massive. I have it to the left outside of the speaker. The room is 17ft × 18ft on one side open to the dinning room to the right which is another 17ft × 18ft. The ceiling peeks at about 20 ft. The Ultra sits 15.7ft away. The 208s are 13ft away.
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post #7253 of 7255 Old 08-18-2014, 09:17 PM
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I'm not sure if you realize that you put the sub in your seat and you do the crawling around and place the sub where the bass sounds best. It's not like you crawl around with the sub.

I'm not sure if a single PB13 Ultra is capable of pressurizing a 12K^3ft room by itself from 16' away. You would need to corner load or place it nearfield. That's a lot of volume for a single sub to try and pressurize. I would try setting the speakers to small with an 80Hz crossover. For that size room you may even consider running your F208s large and running double bass or whatever it is your receiver calls it where both your speakers and the sub is playing the same bass content. That might help.
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post #7254 of 7255 Old Yesterday, 05:19 AM
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Actually when I ran EMO -Q it set the speakers too large which sounded pretty good. It Set the subwoofer to 200 hz. I dropped it back to 120hz. I was told if you set the speakers to large that it has the possibility of blowing the speakers so I dropped the crossovers.
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post #7255 of 7255 Old Yesterday, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRIPTON80 View Post
My problem lies with the Ultra. I hook it up, run the EMO-Q...I play it for my wife and she was like "you spent that much money on that for that."
See if EMO-Q has anything like Audyssey DEQ, which boosts the bass a little (while keeping the frequency response flat even beyond 10kHz) to give you that extra dynamic punchy bass sensation.

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post #7256 of 7255 Old Yesterday, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRIPTON80 View Post
I was wondering if I can get some advice? I'm running a umc 200, xpa 3, F208s, C 206 and just picked up an SVS PB13 ULTRA.
My problem lies with the Ultra. I hook it up, run the EMO-Q. When running the room correction I was thinking, wow the sub is going to rock. Well it set my crossover to large which sounded good. I called SVS and they let me know at what settings everything should be. They said to keep the sub at -7 to start. I play it for my wife and she was like "you spent that much money on that for that." What am I missing? Does the F208 pick up that much to where the Sub doesn't even have to work?
The problem is not the sub--that is a fantastic sub--the issue is placement and EQ.

I strongly suggest working with SVS directly and following their advice. Make sure all the DSP settings are to default or what SVS told you. Turn off room correction to test. Trust me, do not engage room correction at this point.

Room correction is not a cure-all and you should do all your debugging with it turned off.
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