Revel Owners Thread - Page 244 - AVS Forum
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post #7291 of 7299 Old 08-25-2014, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TRIPTON80 View Post
Thank you for the insight as I would of probably never ran across the Gramma. It makes sense. Now it's just finding the right size for the PB13. Maybe i can ask if it would be better having 2 subs for lower levels of listening instead of the giant 1 sub to fill the room more? I picked up The Amazing Spiderman 2 yesterday to give the system a good run. I played with the contour switches on the back of the C206 to see if I could reduce the tinneyness of the voices and to eliminate the voices from sounding like they're in a box. I am convinced it's either my ears or the Emotiva UMC 200. By my ears, meaning being to critical. I am thinking it's also my ears wanting more warmth or bass from the voices. I had a pair of B&Ws that created that warm sound but boy did they ever sound like they were in a box. It's probably the echo in my room creating the issue. My wife and I were looking online for room correction materials. She said if you can make it look like art she would be fine with it as our system is in the living room. Any ideas on good looking panels? We have a box of Corning 703 board bare in the attic. I just don't want to get into cutting that stuff.
Give the SVS folks a call and consult with them about your goals. My gut instinct would tell me that there's likely going to be a two-fold solution: first is adding the absorption feet to your sub and secondly looking at dual sub configuration. If you can afford it, the dual subs would be a really great way to go.

I'm not the expert in this area. However, when it comes to bass, our perception of bass changes at lower volumes. That's why there are some solutions out there that "boost" the bass at lower volumes to compensate for this perception. If you know that you're not going to be able to crank it to reference levels, then my suggestion to you would be to try getting either the Auralex subdude solutions or the SVS feet. Then, I'd also try boosting your sub's volume by +1 or +2 db or (old school) raising the bass in your tone controls when listening at lower volumes.

Without being in your room and shooting in the dark I can make a fairly good assumption that you need to further isolate your sub from the floor. That's going to make a big difference, but it won't completely solve the problem. That's why I'd also consult with the folks at SVS since they'll be able to advise you best with their products. Their subs tend to have some pretty extensive options to tweak things for your particular environment.

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post #7292 of 7299 Old 08-25-2014, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post
Give the SVS folks a call and consult with them about your goals. My gut instinct would tell me that there's likely going to be a two-fold solution: first is adding the absorption feet to your sub and secondly looking at dual sub configuration. If you can afford it, the dual subs would be a really great way to go.

I'm not the expert in this area. However, when it comes to bass, our perception of bass changes at lower volumes. That's why there are some solutions out there that "boost" the bass at lower volumes to compensate for this perception. If you know that you're not going to be able to crank it to reference levels, then my suggestion to you would be to try getting either the Auralex subdude solutions or the SVS feet. Then, I'd also try boosting your sub's volume by +1 or +2 db or (old school) raising the bass in your tone controls when listening at lower volumes.

Without being in your room and shooting in the dark I can make a fairly good assumption that you need to further isolate your sub from the floor. That's going to make a big difference, but it won't completely solve the problem. That's why I'd also consult with the folks at SVS since they'll be able to advise you best with their products. Their subs tend to have some pretty extensive options to tweak things for your particular environment.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^

In addition to the previous post, I checked out the Emotiva and I don't see any options for late night listening. My Anthem, for example, has a late night mode that limits dynamics. I also don't see the options of any volume adjustment for bass at lower volumes.

You may want using plain old tone controls for now and raising the bass while the volume is lowered. You can probably come up with a pre-set setting — let's say +2 or +3 — for night listening and defeat the tone controls for daytime listening. Just a thought.

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post #7293 of 7299 Old Yesterday, 06:50 PM
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Glowing review of the F-208s on Secrets.
Not that anyone on this thread is surprised.

 

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post #7294 of 7299 Old Today, 07:52 AM
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Glowing review of the F-208s on Secrets.
Not that anyone on this thread is surprised.
I just finished my Revel system last week. F208's, C208, F206's, Mark Levinson amps, the Marantz 8801 and UD7007 and 2 Seaton Submersives. They result is truly magical.

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post #7295 of 7299 Old Today, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post
Glowing review of the F-208s on Secrets.
Not that anyone on this thread is surprised.
On a related note, the M106 just got reviewed at Stereophile. While the F208's have been getting universal praise with fantastic measurements, the M106 measurements show a terrible suckout in the vertical dispersion graph. This is very unlike Revel's philosophy of even dispersion, and it looks worse in this area than I've seen any Revel speaker measure, or even Infinity speakers. At this I'm quite surprised.
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post #7296 of 7299 Old Today, 04:44 PM
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I read that review and AFAIR, Atkinson made reference to it but only remarked that taller stands would be necessary.
Hardly a damning appraisal.

 

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post #7297 of 7299 Old Today, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by neutralguy View Post
On a related note, the M106 just got reviewed at Stereophile. While the F208's have been getting universal praise with fantastic measurements, the M106 measurements show a terrible suckout in the vertical dispersion graph. This is very unlike Revel's philosophy of even dispersion, and it looks worse in this area than I've seen any Revel speaker measure, or even Infinity speakers. At this I'm quite surprised.
Their philosophy is even dispersion in the horizontal plane. Any speaker that isn't a coax (eg, KEF or TAD) is going to have large suckouts in the vertical axis due to interference from one driver to the next.

The reason it appears so much worse on the M106 than on the measurements for the F208 is simply because of the scale on the plot: the F206, being such a large speaker, was only measured at -10, -5, 0, 5, 10, 15 degrees, while the M106 was measured from -45 degrees to nearly +45 degrees.

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post #7298 of 7299 Old Today, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by beaveav View Post
Their philosophy is even dispersion in the horizontal plane. Any speaker that isn't a coax (eg, KEF or TAD) is going to have large suckouts in the vertical axis due to interference from one driver to the next.

The reason it appears so much worse on the M106 than on the measurements for the F208 is simply because of the scale on the plot: the F206, being such a large speaker, was only measured at -10, -5, 0, 5, 10, 15 degrees, while the M106 was measured from -45 degrees to nearly +45 degrees.
The suckout starts at only 5 degrees above the tweeter axis.

Theater room: Sony VPL HW30ES, DIY 100" screen with Seymour Centerstage XD, 5 Revel M105, 2 JBL Studio 210, 4 SVS SB12-NSD, Anthem MRX-300
Living room: Panasonic TC-P60VT60, 3 KEF LS50, Pioneer SW-8, Marantz NR1603
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post #7299 of 7299 Old Today, 09:25 PM
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^ The magnitude, frequency, and angle of the suckouts depend on three factors: The crossover frequency, the crossover slopes, and the driver-to-driver spacing (center-to-center).

The F208 has a 5.25" mid crossing to the 1" tweeter. The M106 has a 6.5" crossing to the 1" tweeter. The crossover for the two speakers occurs at a slightly different frequency, but likely of greater importance is that the center-to-center spacing of the drivers is different (I'm assuming here that this is the case). The center-to-center distance between the tweeter and midwoofer on the M106 is greater than the center-to-center distance on the F208, just because of the greater size of the driver on the M106. With the two drivers closer together on the F208, the resulting suckouts will occur at greater angles away from on-axis. So it's likely the F208 has suckouts comparable to the M106; it's just that they occur at higher angles away from the tweeter axis, and that's why they don't show up in the Stereophile measurements.

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