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post #8641 of 8776 Old 08-02-2016, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
One question - are you running a subwoofer with that setup? Running any speaker full range will tax an amplifier more than crossing over to a sub. It will also help to know what size room you have.

As Kevin at Revel has told me numerous times - the more power, the better. However, if you are listening at low volume levels it's not as if adding more power will improve the sound at that low volume. Differences in well designed amplifiers really only become audible when you push them hard and they start running out of headroom and start clipping. Clipping distortion can be quite audible and can actually damage the speakers. So, the more power, the better.

That said, there is no downside to upping the amplification than the possible drain to your wallet

The Parasounds are excellent amps, plus you might also take a look at the Emotiva XPA Gen2 modular 3 channel amp - 275 watts x3 at $1099, so more power for less money. If you are looking at possibly upgrading to Revel towers, having the extra power will really come in handy. In fact, a very good argument can be made that you will get more improvement in sound by upgrading to an F206 or F208 than upgrading the amp (though the Catch-22 is that the towers require more power).

Good luck!
Hey John - thanks for the quick reply. I have gained a lot of knowledge based on your contributions to this thread, so thanks!

My current room constraints aren't great for towers or for a subwoofer. In my mind, the amp(s) would be a fun and useful upgrade/investment for this current system, and could provide the amplification for F206/F208 down the road. Seems like an A23 (mono) per F208 would sound killer - but by having two of them now, I could power all three current channels with lots of headroom.

I guess my primary reason for posting is to answer the following: Is this mostly an exercise which will not result in a better soundstage, enhanced dynamics or clarity, but will lighten my wallet by a couple thousand?
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post #8642 of 8776 Old 08-02-2016, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Ngerstman View Post
If you're happy with your current sound and you can drive your speakers cleanly to your required volume, maybe it just makes sense to wait to change amps until you decide to upgrade your speakers. I'm not sure how Parasound monos their amps from stereo but sometimes the results can degrade the sound and you could be better off buying the next amp up in their line should you need let's say 250/channel. The a23 is a nice amp, but the next step up gets you to beast mode! Their 3 channel amp is 250/channel and costs just a bit more than two a23's, it is however huge. I'm not sure how the Parasound amp compares to the Anthem product and if the change to Parasound will get you to the next level, power notwithstanding. The Parasound amps are a John Curl design using Mosfets which I've personally always liked, clean, fast, smooth sounding transistors, used historically by Hafler and B&K among others. Happy hunting. Regards. Ned.
Thanks, Ned! I guess I need to learn a little more about possible sound quality implications of running a stereo amp in mono before making a purchase. Thinking longer term for a possible 2ch pre/pro setup, there isn't a downside to running an A31 in 2ch, I assume?
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post #8643 of 8776 Old 08-02-2016, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by cavallino View Post
Thanks, Ned! I guess I need to learn a little more about possible sound quality implications of running a stereo amp in mono before making a purchase. Thinking longer term for a possible 2ch pre/pro setup, there isn't a downside to running an A31 in 2ch, I assume?
I had good results using a A21 bi-amping each Salon2. The Salons are too difficult and the A21 bridged sounded flat. I don't recommend that. If you F208s, then bi-amping would be an option with the A23s.

- Rich
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post #8644 of 8776 Old 08-02-2016, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cavallino View Post
Hey John - thanks for the quick reply. I have gained a lot of knowledge based on your contributions to this thread, so thanks!

My current room constraints aren't great for towers or for a subwoofer. In my mind, the amp(s) would be a fun and useful upgrade/investment for this current system, and could provide the amplification for F206/F208 down the road. Seems like an A23 (mono) per F208 would sound killer - but by having two of them now, I could power all three current channels with lots of headroom.

I guess my primary reason for posting is to answer the following: Is this mostly an exercise which will not result in a better soundstage, enhanced dynamics or clarity, but will lighten my wallet by a couple thousand?
My opinion - changing the amp will not bring you "a better soundstage, enhanced dynamics or clarity" (well, maybe better dynamics). Electronics are for the most part neutral.

What *can* bring you those qualities is upgrading the speakers or improving speaker placement / room acoustics. Post some pics of your room and how the speakers are set up in relation to your listening area and we can give you some suggestions that might help the room "come to life." Experimenting with speaker placement and seating area - even speaker toe in - can really pay huge dividends in improving the sound of your system.
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post #8645 of 8776 Old 08-02-2016, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by cavallino View Post
Thanks, Ned! I guess I need to learn a little more about possible sound quality implications of running a stereo amp in mono before making a purchase. Thinking longer term for a possible 2ch pre/pro setup, there isn't a downside to running an A31 in 2ch, I assume?
I would tend to agree with John. Typically, if you have a bookshelf speaker on a stand, you have room for a compact floorstander which can have a similar footprint. The added cabinet volume and woofers would give you a meaningful upgrade, even 206's which have a small footprint. Alternatively a subwoofer stuck in any corner or anywhere while crossing over to your monitors would be a dramatic improvement, giving you extended bass, power handling and added headroom for your amp, while making the monitors sound dramatically better for not handling the bass below 80hz. Those choices would give you the biggest improvement. Regards. Ned.
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post #8646 of 8776 Old 08-02-2016, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ngerstman View Post
If you're happy with your current sound and you can drive your speakers cleanly to your required volume, maybe it just makes sense to wait to change amps until you decide to upgrade your speakers. I'm not sure how Parasound monos their amps from stereo but sometimes the results can degrade the sound and you could be better off buying the next amp up in their line should you need let's say 250/channel. The a23 is a nice amp, but the next step up gets you to beast mode! Their 3 channel amp is 250/channel and costs just a bit more than two a23's, it is however huge. I'm not sure how the Parasound amp compares to the Anthem product and if the change to Parasound will get you to the next level, power notwithstanding. The Parasound amps are a John Curl design using Mosfets which I've personally always liked, clean, fast, smooth sounding transistors, used historically by Hafler and B&K among others. Happy hunting. Regards. Ned.

Parasound power amplifiers, such as the A23, have a dual differential input stage with JFET's (four total) in long tailed pairs for inputs, each partnered with a bi-polar in a cascode arrangement, MOSFET's for the voltage gain stage, and bipolar power transistors (Sanken) for outputs.

The A23's are really good values with a 1KVA power transformer with separate windings for each channel, ample power supply capacitors, and six heavy duty, high current Sanken bi-polar power transistors per channel. They also take single-end or balanced inputs which isn't all that common in lower priced gear. With the case open there appears to be a lot of amplifier for the money. A23's are rated at over 200 watts per channel into four ohms, so they would be good candidates, at reasonable cost, for bi-amping Revel Salon2's or any other speaker. Larger Parasound amplifiers appear to be scaled-up versions of this same basic design.

Since there are JFET's, MOSFETs and bipolar transistors, there is something for everyone if a person wants to buy amplifiers based on the transistors they contain.
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post #8647 of 8776 Old 08-03-2016, 08:37 AM
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A couple room pics

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Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
My opinion - changing the amp will not bring you "a better soundstage, enhanced dynamics or clarity" (well, maybe better dynamics). Electronics are for the most part neutral.

What *can* bring you those qualities is upgrading the speakers or improving speaker placement / room acoustics. Post some pics of your room and how the speakers are set up in relation to your listening area and we can give you some suggestions that might help the room "come to life." Experimenting with speaker placement and seating area - even speaker toe in - can really pay huge dividends in improving the sound of your system.
Here are a couple pictures of the room. I thought my local dealer was going to dis-own me when I mentioned that I was solving for a curiously strong toddler (he kept rocking/tipping my prior tower speakers side-to-side and I was worried about his safety and my sanity) and wanted high quality bookshelf speakers that I could hang on the wall out of reach. As mentioned earlier, I purchased M106 because I would love to a) eventually stand-mount them in a 2ch rig or b) trade them in on F206/208, and philosophically I'd rather buy excellent gear that can be useful right now and also later.

Thus far, I've been resistant to add a subwoofer partially due to the fact that my room constraints won't allow for optimal placement. There's a large fireplace that protrudes from the front wall to the left side of the TV, and the right side of the TV is visible upon entering the condo, so I've resisted putting something on that side of the TV cabinet. (You'll note a rather odd looking traffic-cone-colored toy to the right side of the TV cabinet in one of the pictures I snapped this morning - an indicator that this room is very much shared with a 30lb human). I think the left side of the TV cabinet is the only spot where I could "sneak in" a subwoofer.

Also attached the Anthem room report for the M106 for anyone who is curious about the response with this current setup.

Thanks again everyone for the input and comments so far. It's really helpful to hear from the community.
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post #8648 of 8776 Old 08-03-2016, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by cavallino View Post
Here are a couple pictures of the room. I thought my local dealer was going to dis-own me when I mentioned that I was solving for a curiously strong toddler (he kept rocking/tipping my prior tower speakers side-to-side and I was worried about his safety and my sanity) and wanted high quality bookshelf speakers that I could hang on the wall out of reach. As mentioned earlier, I purchased M106 because I would love to a) eventually stand-mount them in a 2ch rig or b) trade them in on F206/208, and philosophically I'd rather buy excellent gear that can be useful right now and also later.

Thus far, I've been resistant to add a subwoofer partially due to the fact that my room constraints won't allow for optimal placement. There's a large fireplace that protrudes from the front wall to the left side of the TV, and the right side of the TV is visible upon entering the condo, so I've resisted putting something on that side of the TV cabinet. (You'll note a rather odd looking traffic-cone-colored toy to the right side of the TV cabinet in one of the pictures I snapped this morning - an indicator that this room is very much shared with a 30lb human). I think the left side of the TV cabinet is the only spot where I could "sneak in" a subwoofer.

Also attached the Anthem room report for the M106 for anyone who is curious about the response with this current setup.

Thanks again everyone for the input and comments so far. It's really helpful to hear from the community.
I would put a subwoofer to the right of your cabinet, at least a 12 inch driver maybe a 15. Could face forward or to the right, would recommend either a sealed box or front firing port or down firing woofer. Even less than ideal position could make a huge difference and it can be used as an end table as well! Maybe your dealer could lend you one to try. If you have bass management capabilities, you could high pass the Revels or just run them full range with sub as bass enhancement. Regards. Ned.
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post #8649 of 8776 Old 08-03-2016, 09:12 AM
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@cavallino at least you're all set for "heights" when the kid grows up and you can put some towers in. :-)
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post #8650 of 8776 Old 08-03-2016, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by cavallino View Post
Here are a couple pictures of the room. I thought my local dealer was going to dis-own me when I mentioned that I was solving for a curiously strong toddler (he kept rocking/tipping my prior tower speakers side-to-side and I was worried about his safety and my sanity) and wanted high quality bookshelf speakers that I could hang on the wall out of reach. As mentioned earlier, I purchased M106 because I would love to a) eventually stand-mount them in a 2ch rig or b) trade them in on F206/208, and philosophically I'd rather buy excellent gear that can be useful right now and also later.

Thus far, I've been resistant to add a subwoofer partially due to the fact that my room constraints won't allow for optimal placement. There's a large fireplace that protrudes from the front wall to the left side of the TV, and the right side of the TV is visible upon entering the condo, so I've resisted putting something on that side of the TV cabinet. (You'll note a rather odd looking traffic-cone-colored toy to the right side of the TV cabinet in one of the pictures I snapped this morning - an indicator that this room is very much shared with a 30lb human). I think the left side of the TV cabinet is the only spot where I could "sneak in" a subwoofer.

Also attached the Anthem room report for the M106 for anyone who is curious about the response with this current setup.

Thanks again everyone for the input and comments so far. It's really helpful to hear from the community.
OK, can definitely see some of your challenges . BTW, the ARC report shows very good response before and after calibration - which pretty effectively demonstrates how good the Revels are even straight out of the box. The ARC report talks about bass response post-bass management. Is bass management "on" in your Anthem? If it is, it needs to be turned off since you don't have a sub. If it's on when it shouldn't be, some of your bass is getting "shaved off" and the speakers could sound a bit anemic.

Here are some "speaker placement 101" ideas that you could implement that could really help with soundstaging and imaging, but I'm not sure how attainable they are in your room:

Ideally your speakers will be at ear level. Due to the wide dispersion of the Revel designs, this is slightly less critical than with some other brands. However, lowering the speakers so that they are more in line with your ears is a good idea. It will also bring them more in line with the center speaker. If it is impossible to move the speakers down, you can try tilting the speakers downward so the tweeters are firing more directly at your ears (an old mix studio trick).

Ideally your speakers will form an equilateral triangle with your listening position. This is one of the most important things you can do to help broaden your soundstage and get more of a sense of spaciousness. If you are sitting about 12 feet back, your speakers should also be about 12 feet apart. This appears to be the biggest challenge in your room. And, while this will help tremendously with music listening, it will also mean that the speakers will be quite wide in relation to the size of your TV. This could be a bit distracting when watching movies.

I don't know if any of the above helps, as I can see how the room layout may prevent implementing some of the above ideas.

The best place for a subwoofer is where it gives you the most even bass response. That could end up being a variety of different places in your room. If you are up for it, you can always try the Audioholics subwoofer crawl:


Sometimes the best location is not anywhere near the other speakers

Good luck!
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post #8651 of 8776 Old 08-03-2016, 09:57 AM
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cavallino: just a thought - have you considered doing an in-wall sub or even in-ceiling? I started with 2 subs in the room and then kicked it up by having an enclosure built into the sidewall with (4) IB15HT Acoustic Elegance 15" drivers. Compliments the 2 in-room subs; ran ARC to finish it off.
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post #8652 of 8776 Old 08-04-2016, 08:20 AM
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Cool

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Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
OK, can definitely see some of your challenges . BTW, the ARC report shows very good response before and after calibration - which pretty effectively demonstrates how good the Revels are even straight out of the box. The ARC report talks about bass response post-bass management. Is bass management "on" in your Anthem? If it is, it needs to be turned off since you don't have a sub. If it's on when it shouldn't be, some of your bass is getting "shaved off" and the speakers could sound a bit anemic.

Here are some "speaker placement 101" ideas that you could implement that could really help with soundstaging and imaging, but I'm not sure how attainable they are in your room:

Ideally your speakers will be at ear level. Due to the wide dispersion of the Revel designs, this is slightly less critical than with some other brands. However, lowering the speakers so that they are more in line with your ears is a good idea. It will also bring them more in line with the center speaker. If it is impossible to move the speakers down, you can try tilting the speakers downward so the tweeters are firing more directly at your ears (an old mix studio trick).

Ideally your speakers will form an equilateral triangle with your listening position. This is one of the most important things you can do to help broaden your soundstage and get more of a sense of spaciousness. If you are sitting about 12 feet back, your speakers should also be about 12 feet apart. This appears to be the biggest challenge in your room. And, while this will help tremendously with music listening, it will also mean that the speakers will be quite wide in relation to the size of your TV. This could be a bit distracting when watching movies.

I don't know if any of the above helps, as I can see how the room layout may prevent implementing some of the above ideas.

The best place for a subwoofer is where it gives you the most even bass response. That could end up being a variety of different places in your room. If you are up for it, you can always try the Audioholics subwoofer crawl:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4o13mNmlaA

Sometimes the best location is not anywhere near the other speakers

Good luck!
John - thanks again for the response. My understanding is that if you select "full range" for a speaker then the ARC report prints "with bass management" to the "corrected curve" label as default. After this forum post, I sent the .pdf of my report to Anthem for verification that the settings are correct and they replied (within 15 minutes!) to confirm that the pre-correction curves would show bass going above the ARC corrected line if there was any bass being shaved off. One awesome part of being an Anthem customer is their personalized support!

Unfortunately the speakers cannot be lowered. The fireplace interferes with the L channel and my young son would probably try to do pull-ups on the mounts if they were within his reach ;-)

The equilateral triangle issue you mentioned is definitely a challenge - I am significantly farther from the front wall than the speakers are set wide.

You all have convinced me to seriously consider adding a subwoofer. Part two of this excellent review is very timely as well and is adding fuel to the fire.

Are there any other M106 owners out there who are using a single subwoofer? Which one and how do you like it?

Thanks again!
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post #8653 of 8776 Old 08-04-2016, 08:22 AM
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cavallino: just a thought - have you considered doing an in-wall sub or even in-ceiling? I started with 2 subs in the room and then kicked it up by having an enclosure built into the sidewall with (4) IB15HT Acoustic Elegance 15" drivers. Compliments the 2 in-room subs; ran ARC to finish it off.
Absolutely! It's a bit impractical for now since I rent. But in my opinion, it's the best way to add subwoofers.
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post #8654 of 8776 Old 08-04-2016, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavallino View Post
John - thanks again for the response. My understanding is that if you select "full range" for a speaker then the ARC report prints "with bass management" to the "corrected curve" label as default. After this forum post, I sent the .pdf of my report to Anthem for verification that the settings are correct and they replied (within 15 minutes!) to confirm that the pre-correction curves would show bass going above the ARC corrected line if there was any bass being shaved off. One awesome part of being an Anthem customer is their personalized support!

Unfortunately the speakers cannot be lowered. The fireplace interferes with the L channel and my young son would probably try to do pull-ups on the mounts if they were within his reach ;-)

The equilateral triangle issue you mentioned is definitely a challenge - I am significantly farther from the front wall than the speakers are set wide.

You all have convinced me to seriously consider adding a subwoofer. Part two of this excellent review is very timely as well and is adding fuel to the fire.

Are there any other M106 owners out there who are using a single subwoofer? Which one and how do you like it?

Thanks again!
Anthem is terrific, and their ARC system one of the best correction systems on the market. I should have known better on the curve printout. We do Anthem systems but pretty much all of them have subs.

I figured some of my suggestions would be a challenge based upon constraints. Last suggestion would be to move the listening position forward, if only temporarily for music listening sessions. Certainly easy enough to place a chair in the "proper" location and see if you like what you hear.

Obviously a Revel sub would be an excellent choice. The B110 and B112 models are part of the Performa3 line, and they both feature Harman's LFO software - which is essentially a "lite" version of Harman's ultra-high end ARCOS room EQ software. If you don't mind a bigger box in the room, many on the Forum like their SVS and Hsu subs, which represent good value for the money.

BTW, last I checked there were some B stock Revel subs still available - you might check with your dealer.

Good luck!
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post #8655 of 8776 Old 08-04-2016, 12:29 PM
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Absolutely! It's a bit impractical for now since I rent. But in my opinion, it's the best way to add subwoofers.
Looking at your room again, I suggest moving that large orange chair thingy - and replace with your new sub. Have you considered a cylindrical such as the SVS PC-2000?
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post #8656 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 08:10 AM
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I've been absent from the forum so I may be a bit slow on the draw but (addressed to Cavallino) I was impressed by the FR of your system. Nice and smooth especially through the mid band and decent LF response given your constraints. I think your 10dB down point was close to 30Hz (?) which is impressive given what you are working with.

This wouldn't be your logo by any chance, would it?

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post #8657 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by cavallino View Post
high quality bookshelf speakers that I could hang on the wall out of reach.
The problem with putting speakers on a wall is that it loads the lower frequencies more than usual, unless the speakers were designed for on-wall mounting. This results in increased frequency response in the lower ranges, as well as create earlier back wall reflections that lower the sense of spaciousness. You may be able to fix the frequency response with the Anthem, which I'm not familiar with.

In-wall speakers would probably be a better choice for the current location, but as you mentioned you don't always intend for the speakers to be there.

I agree 100% with the subwoofer idea, for all the reasons mentioned.
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post #8658 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 09:25 AM
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And when you do move to a different location, consider moving the center speaker outside the cabinet, or at least stuff the empty space in the cavity. For more info on this topic, see Chapter 12.2 of Sound Reproduction by Floyd Toole. If you enjoyed that M106 review you'll find this book enlightening.
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post #8659 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 10:36 AM
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Hey,

I'm giving my HT an facelift and I've been working with John to get the Revel f208 with C208 center. After looking for an AV cabinet online, nothing would hold that beast. I reached out to my brother in law and he's going to build a custom cabinet that can house the C208.

After reading through a different thread, they spoke about how it's a bad idea to put your speaker in a cabinet. So now I'm kind of bummed but I want to make the best of my current situation.

Here's my design:

He's ordered the wood but hasn't started building anything so I may have some flexibility when it comes to design.

Questions:

How much space or breathing room does the C208 need? Is space more important left or right vs top and bottom?

With current dimensions, should I be putting filling around the speaker? Will that help?

What kind of dip would I see in performance by putting it in an a cabinet?

Any advice would be appreciated.
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post #8660 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 11:54 AM
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Having speaker closer or farther to the wall mostly has to do with speaker boundary interference. Cabinet might behave as an extension of speaker enclosure, its hard to predict obviously, but it definitely might reinforce some low end up to the point where sounds wavelengths equal the longest front dimension of cabinet. That is of course only rough estimation.
One thing I would definitely point out, in case you don't know is that C208 doesn't have a flat bottom and its actually meant to be screwed to the stand otherwise it might rock around. If I wanted to place center in a cabinet I would probably first leave back open, measure the response, then close the back and stuff the insides and measure again. Besides, you can always make back panel of cabinet detachable.

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post #8661 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 12:02 PM
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@zoysiaman . The C208 is sealed and monopolar, so it's the best possible design you can hope for going into an entertainment stand. I do not believe having more space left vs right, or top vs bottom will make much difference. Given a choice I would go top/bottom just so you have flexibility in tilting the speaker towards the listening position and for ease of getting it in or out.

My suggestion would be to have the leading edge of the C208 an inch or two out of the cabinet to minimize diffraction.

Edited to correct typos.
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post #8662 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 12:33 PM
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^^^^

I think @Snowmanick is dead on Reached out to technical support anyway, just to get their take.

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post #8663 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donktard View Post
Having speaker closer or farther to the wall mostly has to do with speaker boundary interference. Cabinet might behave as an extension of speaker enclosure, its hard to predict obviously, but it definitely might reinforce some low end up to the point where sounds wavelengths equal the longest front dimension of cabinet. That is of course only rough estimation.
One thing I would definitely point out, in case you don't know is that C208 doesn't have a flat bottom and its actually meant to be screwed to the stand otherwise it might rock around. If I wanted to place center in a cabinet I would probably first leave back open, measure the response, then close the back and stuff the insides and measure again. Besides, you can always make back panel of cabinet detachable.
FYI the C208 ships with rubber feet for stability when placed on a non-Revel stand or flat surface.

The C208 also has boundary compensation controls that should help

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Last edited by John Schuermann; 08-06-2016 at 01:08 PM.
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post #8664 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
FYI the F208 ships with rubber feet for stability when placed on a non-Revel stand or flat surface.

The F208 also has boundary compensation controls that should help
You meant to say C208?
Don't recall getting rubber feet with mine. Got picture maybe?

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post #8665 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 01:07 PM
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Yes, meant C208. Corrected

Almost all of the above - including cabinet placement - is covered on pages 4 and 5 of the manual:

http://revelspeakers.com/tl_files/ca...C205_OM_EN.pdf

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post #8666 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 02:42 PM
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Sometimes we have to be creative when it comes to positioning our center speaker. When I switched to the Voice2 I found I needed a lower stand to allow it to sit directly under the screen and not have a collision. My solution was to have Montana Woodworks make a stand similar to this with the measurements I needed -
http://www.montanawoodworks.com/home...lacquered.html
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post #8667 of 8776 Old 08-06-2016, 11:19 PM
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Revel Owners Thread

@zoysiaman
I too am having a modified Standout Designs cabinet built. Luckily my folks took down a couple of walnut trees when adding onto their house in 2000 and had it cut into planks onsite. It's been sitting in their basement ever since until I got it a few months ago. Found a cabinet maker my buddy worked with who's been making it in his off time.
I saw the progress for the first time today and it looks fantastic so far. I made the center 1' high to future proof any larger centers I may pursue, soft close hinges on the doors and drawers, hidden wheels, etc., pretty much the same features as the SD unit just modified. He's got more trim, ventilation, wire runs and finishing to do, but I can't wait until it's done. I'm sure you'll enjoy a custom cabinet as much as I'm hoping to. Here's mine so far. Best of luck!





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post #8668 of 8776 Old 08-07-2016, 06:04 AM
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That looks amazing!!! Keep us posted on the project. I would love to see some final pictures. I'm trying to figure out the right stain. I think mine is going to be built out of mahogany
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post #8669 of 8776 Old 08-07-2016, 08:29 AM
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Thanks, will do. Mahogany would be really nice, definitely post pics when it's done.


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post #8670 of 8776 Old 08-07-2016, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
Some might find this interesting - Tom Norton of Sound and Vision went into the Harman double blind chamber and liked the F208s best of all, compared to the F206 and Studio2:

http://www.soundandvision.com/conten...hezGwMW7UdH.97

Some caveats in the review, which should be taken into account. Good pic of the listening chamber as well!
I remember reading that article.
I have not directly A/B'd the 208s vs my Studio2s but I like the 208s a lot and think they are a killer value.

I do think Tom's preference is more about his preferences than the objective performance of the 208s vs the Studio2s.

 

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