Revel Owners Thread - Page 314 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 808Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #9391 of 9414 Old Yesterday, 01:00 PM
Member
 
1_sufferin_mind's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked: 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post
You can certainly set your x-over lower than 80Hz but if you have a good set of subs I would ask why?
Even with monster amps you're asking them to drive some potentially very demanding loads.
Any decent sub can easily handle 80Hz material and it doesn't require expensive amps to drive then as the amps are only required to drive a narrow frequency band.
I know several people with large very capable floor standing speakers and none of them set any of their speakers to large, i.e., full range for soundtracks.

Just my opinion, but spending the money required for a Revel, JL or most other full line speaker manufacturers is totally unnecessary.
There are lots of companies that specialize in subwoofers, do them very well and offer way better value.
SVSound, Rythmik, PowerSound, HSU all make very capable subs.
I came into the HT world wearing buy-speaker-brand-subwoofer diapers. I'll be dragged out of the HT world kicking and screaming with a buy-specialty-brand-subwoofers tuxedo! IOW, I originally paired my B&W CM-9's with a REL T-9 sub and was happy with music sources. But it wasn't until I swapped it out for a PSA XV-15 sub that movies started to rock as well.

Since then, I've merged my 2-ch and multi-channel systems, so have Revel Ultima Salons for the mains, and a Revel Voice for the center. I at first ran the mains full-range, but the bass was unsatisfying because the speakers couldn't be moved to where they yielded the best low frequency response. Running them "small" reduces bloat and overhang, but still leaves artifacts from deep nulls. In any case, just wanted to share that the PSA and Salons integrate well in mu room.

Please be nice. I'm off my meds today!
1_sufferin_mind is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #9392 of 9414 Old Yesterday, 04:06 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Milt99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: West Of California
Posts: 5,863
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 237 Post(s)
Liked: 246
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1_sufferin_mind View Post
Since then, I've merged my 2-ch and multi-channel systems, so have Revel Ultima Salons for the mains, and a Revel Voice for the center. I at first ran the mains full-range, but the bass was unsatisfying because the speakers couldn't be moved to where they yielded the best low frequency response. Running them "small" reduces bloat and overhang, but still leaves artifacts from deep nulls. In any case, just wanted to share that the PSA and Salons integrate well in mu room.
A highly significant point that I left out of my post, plus having 2 or more subs helps a ton.

 

It ain't ignorance causes so much trouble; it's folks knowing so much that ain't so

Milt99 is offline  
post #9393 of 9414 Old Yesterday, 05:03 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 43
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Anybody running their ultima's with class D amplification, with most Revel's being labeled power hungry I would expect somebody's dipped their toe in the water? I do know 1 individual using a peachtree 220 to push his f 52's happily, anybody else?
steven59 is offline  
 
post #9394 of 9414 Old Yesterday, 07:20 PM
Oppo Beta Group
 
RichB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 9,807
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 873 Post(s)
Liked: 573
Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
Anybody running their ultima's with class D amplification, with most Revel's being labeled power hungry I would expect somebody's dipped their toe in the water? I do know 1 individual using a peachtree 220 to push his f 52's happily, anybody else?

I tried the Salon1's with a older ICE amp (500 WPC) about 5 years ago. I did not care for the amp. Things have changed since then, but I decided to stay A/B for a while.


- Rich

Oppo UPD-203 | Sonica DAC | BDP-105D | HA-1 | PM-1 | Emotiva XMC-1 |ATI Signature AT6002 x 2 + AT6006 | Revel Salon2s, Voice2, Studio2s | Velodyne HGS-15 | LG B6 | Lumagen 2020
RichB is online now  
post #9395 of 9414 Old Yesterday, 07:37 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
Kal Rubinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: NYC + Connecticut
Posts: 29,512
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 683 Post(s)
Liked: 464
Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
Anybody running their ultima's with class D amplification, with most Revel's being labeled power hungry I would expect somebody's dipped their toe in the water? I do know 1 individual using a peachtree 220 to push his f 52's happily, anybody else?
Larry Greenhill has: http://www.stereophile.com/content/t...JopSExiKSz9.97

Kal Rubinson

"Music in the Round"
Senior Contributing Editor, Stereophile
http://www.stereophile.com/category/music-round

Kal Rubinson is offline  
post #9396 of 9414 Old Yesterday, 07:37 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
John Schuermann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,940
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 829 Post(s)
Liked: 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
Anybody running their ultima's with class D amplification, with most Revel's being labeled power hungry I would expect somebody's dipped their toe in the water? I do know 1 individual using a peachtree 220 to push his f 52's happily, anybody else?
Running my F208s as side surrounds (I know, overkill) off the JBL Synthesis SDA8300, which is a digital amp. Works great.

FYI I am just running the F208s as side surrounds since my theater is also our showroom, and sometimes I move the F208s to the front for demo purposes. I have powered them off the SDA8300 and an Emotiva XPA3, and have had good luck with both.

John Schuermann
www.thescreeningroomav.com Home Theater Design john@thescreeningroomav.com
JS Music and Sound Post Production Audio / Original Music for Film and Video
Check out my new movie!: www.stephensonmovie.com
John Schuermann is offline  
post #9397 of 9414 Old Yesterday, 08:05 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
John Schuermann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,940
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 829 Post(s)
Liked: 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
Hey @John Schuermann !

I'll dig out Floyd Toole's book again and look this up, but as I remember, he says the center channel should always be set to "small" because there is not much low end material there anyway. What are you using for your center channel and what is the crossover frequency?

I know there is plenty of low frequency material in surround channels (helicopters, bombs etc), so more low end extension is desirable.

If your system is using full range L/R and a sub (or multiple subs), how do you set your crossover? How much low frequency extension do you need from surround speakers if your subs are handling a lot of it?

I see 80 Hz as a crossover for a lot of system recommendations, but that seems high to me (low E string on a guitar). I think of bass more around 80 Hz down to 40 Hz (low E on bass guitar) and subsonic stuff below that.

If a main full range speaker is crossing over at 80 Hz with the sub, that frequency seems too high to me for both speakers. Obviously this depends on what main speakers and what subs.

Say we're talking about JBL M2's, Revel Salon2's etc paired with the right subs?

Say I wanted to add one sub (all that will fit in my living room) to my Revel F208's. What do you recommend? I'd love to get a JL Audio F112 (had a pair at work), but over my budget.

We watched "Arrival" a few nights ago and I felt the need for a sub. I have also been wanting to get a pair of Revel 763L's put in the ceiling to get 5.1 surround going again. Finally settled in the house and tired of living with just an L/C/R system. The F208's are great for 2 channel music listening and LCR is OK for TV, but Blu-Ray movies really need at least 5.1 which is all the room will accommodate.

Thanks for your insight.
No problem - thanks for asking! A couple of thoughts:

Actually, the center channel has just as much low end material as the left and rights - it's just a matter of sending that info to the subwoofer. Whatever is happening in the center of the screen gets mixed to the center channel - no matter if it's dialogue, an explosion, or a jet fighter. That's why it's so important to have a great center channel speaker, and why several on this thread lately have paired a set of F206 with a C208 center.

Personally, I am using 3 JBL LSR708is for LCR, with the center 708 lying horizontally (not ideal, but ok'd by Charles at JBL for my application). All three front speakers are crossed at 80 hz with my JBL S2S-EX subs, and it makes for a POTENT combo when listening to movies

You should appreciate this from a mixer's perspective. Here are a couple of actual movie mixes, with the tracks laid out L, R, C, LFE, LS, RS. You can see how much energy is actually in the center channel, way beyond "just dialogue":

STAR TREK 2009 (Enterprise goes to warp):



INDIANA JONES AND THE KINGDOM OF THE CRYSTAL SKULL (cliff chase):



In my case, I let Anthem's ARC set the crossovers, and it picked 80 hz for the LCR and all the side and rear surrounds, and 110 hz for my Revel C763L in-ceiling heights. Convenient that ARC picked the same crossover frequencies I would have picked myself

I am running 4 subs - 2 JBL S2S-EX subs in front, 2 JBL HTPS400 subs in back.

I talked to Kevin Voecks about using subs crossed over at 80 hz even with big towers like the Salon2s, and he is a big advocate. His argument is that freeing up the towers to handle everything above 80 hz will give you greater dynamics and ease for where the vast majority of content actually lives, and that a good quality sub - well blended with the towers / satellites - is far more capable of handling the dynamics of low frequency content found particularly in movies. So, you will get more impact with the sub(s) plus greater dynamics and clarity with the towers.

We've been playing with the Revel B112 sub and find it very capable. I know there are those that advocate all kinds on ID subs based on the value proposition, but I have found the Harman subs (JBL and Revel) to be tighter and punchier. That said, I haven't ever played with JL subs, and I know they are well regarded.

I don't blame someone for being skeptical about my advocacy for Harman subs since I'm a dealer, but most of the ID subs I've heard seem sloppy to me - lots of deep bass rumble but not much visceral impact. The JBL S2S-EX subs I recently purchased just seem so much more articulate and dynamic than the HSUs and Energys I've had in here before.

John Schuermann
www.thescreeningroomav.com Home Theater Design john@thescreeningroomav.com
JS Music and Sound Post Production Audio / Original Music for Film and Video
Check out my new movie!: www.stephensonmovie.com
John Schuermann is offline  
post #9398 of 9414 Old Yesterday, 08:50 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
laserjock II's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Texas Coast
Posts: 1,675
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 709 Post(s)
Liked: 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
Anybody running their ultima's with class D amplification, with most Revel's being labeled power hungry I would expect somebody's dipped their toe in the water? I do know 1 individual using a peachtree 220 to push his f 52's happily, anybody else?
I have a Red Dragon S500 preordered.
Will let you know soon hopefully.
laserjock II is online now  
post #9399 of 9414 Old Today, 05:37 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 29
John,

Thanks for taking the time to give such a detailed and informative response, I appreciate it very much. It is very helpful to me as I think about how to proceed with my "home theater" in a living room situation.

I fear that because I have only one place I can put one sub, it may not integrate well and just be a boomy mess. I'll have to do some research on subs and room correction, just using an internal crossover on a sub will probably not be enough to get it right. The Bryston SP2 I use for the pre/processor does not have any EQ.

I might be better off putting Revel 763L's in my ceiling (only option for placement I have) as surrounds and using the F208's full range without a sub. The JBL HTPS-400 sub sure looks like a good choice for my room though.

I'm stuck because my living room layout sucks. I'm going to have to talk my wife into moving to a bigger house so I can have a dedicated HT room again. Wish me luck with that one, LOL. Time to buy more lottery tickets.

Last edited by Rex Anderson; Today at 07:21 AM.
Rex Anderson is offline  
post #9400 of 9414 Old Today, 10:51 AM
Advanced Member
 
bigguyca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 577
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 301 Post(s)
Liked: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
Running my F208s as side surrounds (I know, overkill) off the JBL Synthesis SDA8300, which is a digital amp. Works great.

FYI I am just running the F208s as side surrounds since my theater is also our showroom, and sometimes I move the F208s to the front for demo purposes. I have powered them off the SDA8300 and an Emotiva XPA3, and have had good luck with both.

Just to clarify; what is meant by "digital amp?" Normally in audio we see Class A, B, D, G and H, none of which are inherently digital.
bigguyca is offline  
post #9401 of 9414 Old Today, 11:36 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
John Schuermann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,940
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 829 Post(s)
Liked: 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post
Just to clarify; what is meant by "digital amp?" Normally in audio we see Class A, B, D, G and H, none of which are inherently digital.
The DCi|n series amps are Class D. I admit amplifiers are not my area of expertise - I was under the impression that "Class D" amps are generally thought of as digital. Would be happy to be set straight

John Schuermann
www.thescreeningroomav.com Home Theater Design john@thescreeningroomav.com
JS Music and Sound Post Production Audio / Original Music for Film and Video
Check out my new movie!: www.stephensonmovie.com
John Schuermann is offline  
post #9402 of 9414 Old Today, 11:49 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
John Schuermann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,940
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 829 Post(s)
Liked: 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
John,

Thanks for taking the time to give such a detailed and informative response, I appreciate it very much. It is very helpful to me as I think about how to proceed with my "home theater" in a living room situation.

I fear that because I have only one place I can put one sub, it may not integrate well and just be a boomy mess. I'll have to do some research on subs and room correction, just using an internal crossover on a sub will probably not be enough to get it right. The Bryston SP2 I use for the pre/processor does not have any EQ.

I might be better off putting Revel 763L's in my ceiling (only option for placement I have) as surrounds and using the F208's full range without a sub. The JBL HTPS-400 sub sure looks like a good choice for my room though.

I'm stuck because my living room layout sucks. I'm going to have to talk my wife into moving to a bigger house so I can have a dedicated HT room again. Wish me luck with that one, LOL. Time to buy more lottery tickets.
Now THERE is an upgrade path - not wires, not new speakers, not new electronics, just a new house! I love it

A couple of thoughts:

Room EQ will be very helpful in getting rid of "boom." Keep in mind that most of the Revel subs have LFO built in, which is essentially ARCOS-lite (ARCOS is the heart of JBL Synthesis). It was demoed for us at Mark Levinson, where a B112 was integrated with a pair of F206 towers. It took any hint of sloppiness right out of the bass. It's pretty simple to use - you need an iOS device and a cheap mic. Paradigm has something similar with its PBK (Perfect Bass Kit). Quite a bit of detail on LFO in this review of the Revel Rhythm2 sub, with Kevin Voecks direct input (it's being set up with a pair of Salon2 towers - think you might find this informative):

http://www.stereophile.com/content/r...Ww0cK0B67Fu.97

FYI, the HTPS400 is sadly discontinued. I snagged literally two of the last batch ever produced

Of course, the C763L would make an ideal in-ceiling surround.

Luck has been officially wished!

John Schuermann
www.thescreeningroomav.com Home Theater Design john@thescreeningroomav.com
JS Music and Sound Post Production Audio / Original Music for Film and Video
Check out my new movie!: www.stephensonmovie.com
John Schuermann is offline  
post #9403 of 9414 Old Today, 02:52 PM
Advanced Member
 
bigguyca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 577
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 301 Post(s)
Liked: 208
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Schuermann View Post
The DCi|n series amps are Class D. I admit amplifiers are not my area of expertise - I was under the impression that "Class D" amps are generally thought of as digital. Would be happy to be set straight

The "D" doesn't mean that they are digital. Here is the Wikipedia entry on class-D. Class A, B, C, D, etc. aren't one letter acronyms.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class-D_amplifier

There is no mention of digital. I don't mean to be a pain here, but it is good to use the correct terminology.
bigguyca is offline  
post #9404 of 9414 Old Today, 02:56 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
John Schuermann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 3,940
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 829 Post(s)
Liked: 786
Understand that the D does not stand for digital, and I do understand the various classifications (if not in-depth). From the Wikipedia:

The analog signal to be amplified is converted to a series of pulses by pulse width modulation, pulse density modulation or other method before being applied to the amplifier. After amplification, the output pulse train can be converted back to an analog signal by passing through a passive low pass filter consisting of inductors and capacitors.


I always understood that to mean digital in regard to amplifiers. Not disputing, I'm here to learn

John Schuermann
www.thescreeningroomav.com Home Theater Design john@thescreeningroomav.com
JS Music and Sound Post Production Audio / Original Music for Film and Video
Check out my new movie!: www.stephensonmovie.com
John Schuermann is offline  
post #9405 of 9414 Old Today, 04:39 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 35
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by steven59 View Post
Anybody running their ultima's with class D amplification, with most Revel's being labeled power hungry I would expect somebody's dipped their toe in the water? I do know 1 individual using a peachtree 220 to push his f 52's happily, anybody else?
Can somebody comment on that? The F208 for example is rated 88.5dB/8ohms, which on paper at least isn't too bad at all. What is the required/recommended power to drive the F208?
Shangri-La is online now  
post #9406 of 9414 Old Today, 05:04 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
duc135's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,931
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 155 Post(s)
Liked: 220
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shangri-La View Post
Can somebody comment on that? The F208 for example is rated 88.5dB/8ohms, which on paper at least isn't too bad at all. What is the required/recommended power to drive the F208?
How far do you sit from your speakers?

How loud (in dBs) do you listen?

Are you crossing over to a sub (and at what frequency) or running full range?

There are many amplifier power requirement calculators out on the web.

http://www.crownaudio.com/en/tools/calculators

Last edited by duc135; Today at 05:07 PM.
duc135 is offline  
post #9407 of 9414 Old Today, 05:11 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 29
I spoke with James Tanner at Bryston about what amp I needed to drive my F208's. I sit about 12 feet back from them and rarely play above 96 dB SPL average with peaks hitting 103 dB SPL.

He said I would be fine with a 3B SST2 which is 150 watts/channel. I can play louder than my ears can handle and not clip the amp.

The 4B SST2 (or the new cubed series 4B) are 300 W/ch or double the power which only gives a 3 dB increase in SPL.

http://www.puiaudio.com/resources-wh...ker-power.aspx

Last edited by Rex Anderson; Today at 07:33 PM.
Rex Anderson is offline  
post #9408 of 9414 Old Today, 07:42 PM
Senior Member
 
rsg_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: OKC, OK USA
Posts: 293
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigguyca View Post
Just to clarify; what is meant by "digital amp?" Normally in audio we see Class A, B, D, G and H, none of which are inherently digital.
Basically, anything with a switching mode power supply and some sort of pulse width modulation is referred to as "digital" amplifier as it is over 90% efficient in operation. If you have feedback mechanisms to regulate the input pulse width modulation you can get some excellent performance. The downside is noise from switch mode power supplies, but newer designs put it over 20 KHz. The new Emotiva XPA Gen3 amps are Class H because of the improved switched power supply. With these switched power supplies, you get higher efficiency and less of the energy is lost as heat. A Class A amplifier will faithfully amplify the input signal as its transistor is always on. They are heavy because of the massive torroidal power supplies and heat sinks as they are always on. Mark Levinson Class A amps are a beast for good reason. It is a no compromise design as power, weight and price are not constraints in the design. Tube amps are often Class A in design, but they don't generate as much power, but the harmonics generated are wonderful if you are playing an electric guitar. I wouldn't use them for audio because they aren't a faithful reproduction of the recording. Opinions of course would vary.
rsg_1 is online now  
post #9409 of 9414 Old Today, 08:01 PM
Senior Member
 
rsg_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: OKC, OK USA
Posts: 293
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
I spoke with James Tanner at Bryston about what amp I needed to drive my F208's. I sit about 12 feet back from them and rarely play above 96 dB SPL average with peaks hitting 103 dB SPL.

He said I would be fine with a 3B SST2 which is 150 watts/channel. I can play louder than my ears can handle and not clip the amp.

The 4B SST2 (or the new cubed series 4B) are 300 W/ch or double the power which only gives a 3 dB increase in SPL.

http://www.puiaudio.com/resources-wh...ker-power.aspx
Music is dynamic and although the F208 is rated at 8 Ohms, it will at times go down to 4 Ohms and possibly lower. What you want to see is how much power is delivered at 8,4, and 2 Ohms impedance from your amplifier and how much distortion there is when it is fully loaded. IMHO, for a pair of F208s, I wouldn't buy any amp that didn't have at least 1200 Watt power supply. But that's just me.
rsg_1 is online now  
post #9410 of 9414 Old Today, 08:13 PM
Senior Member
 
Gary Sedlack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Las Vegas,NV
Posts: 236
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsg_1 View Post
Music is dynamic and although the F208 is rated at 8 Ohms, it will at times go down to 4 Ohms and possibly lower. What you want to see is how much power is delivered at 8,4, and 2 Ohms impedance from your amplifier and how much distortion there is when it is fully loaded. IMHO, for a pair of F208s, I wouldn't buy any amp that didn't have at least 1200 Watt power supply. But that's just me.
A 1200 watt power supply could get a bit costly. I'm thinking my Parasound A31 at 250 wpc should be sufficient for the 208's at least I hope so.......

Have fun with music and HT

Gary
Gary Sedlack is offline  
post #9411 of 9414 Old Today, 08:20 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
laserjock II's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Texas Coast
Posts: 1,675
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 709 Post(s)
Liked: 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Sedlack View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsg_1 View Post
Music is dynamic and although the F208 is rated at 8 Ohms, it will at times go down to 4 Ohms and possibly lower. What you want to see is how much power is delivered at 8,4, and 2 Ohms impedance from your amplifier and how much distortion there is when it is fully loaded. IMHO, for a pair of F208s, I wouldn't buy any amp that didn't have at least 1200 Watt power supply. But that's just me.
A 1200 watt power supply could get a bit costly. I'm thinking my Parasound A31 at 250 wpc should be sufficient for the 208's at least I hope so.......
Electrical power or audio power?
laserjock II is online now  
post #9412 of 9414 Old Today, 10:38 PM
Senior Member
 
rsg_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: OKC, OK USA
Posts: 293
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by laserjock II View Post
Electrical power or audio power?
Just the power supply of the amplifier itself. I've had 2-channel amplifiers that have had nearly 2000 Watt power supply. The Emotiva XPA-5 Gen3 I'm using now has a 3000W power supply.
rsg_1 is online now  
post #9413 of 9414 Old Today, 10:57 PM
Senior Member
 
rsg_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: OKC, OK USA
Posts: 293
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked: 17
A
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Sedlack View Post
A 1200 watt power supply could get a bit costly. I'm thinking my Parasound A31 at 250 wpc should be sufficient for the 208's at least I hope so.......
The Parasound A31 has a 1500W power supply.
Quote:
1.5 kVA encapsulated toroid power transformer with independent secondary windings for each channel
The Volt-Amp rating is the apparent power and is sufficient for a pair of F208s even if they dip below 4 Ohms briefly.
rsg_1 is online now  
post #9414 of 9414 Old Today, 11:08 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 35
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Liked: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post
How far do you sit from your speakers?

How loud (in dBs) do you listen?

Are you crossing over to a sub (and at what frequency) or running full range?

There are many amplifier power requirement calculators out on the web.

http://www.crownaudio.com/en/tools/calculators
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rex Anderson View Post
I spoke with James Tanner at Bryston about what amp I needed to drive my F208's. I sit about 12 feet back from them and rarely play above 96 dB SPL average with peaks hitting 103 dB SPL.

He said I would be fine with a 3B SST2 which is 150 watts/channel. I can play louder than my ears can handle and not clip the amp.

The 4B SST2 (or the new cubed series 4B) are 300 W/ch or double the power which only gives a 3 dB increase in SPL.

http://www.puiaudio.com/resources-wh...ker-power.aspx
Thanks guys. Useful calculator and article. What I wanted to know was whether the rated sensitivity level of Revel speakers (the F208s being one example) is an accurate indication of how much power is needed, as the comment I quoted sounded like the Revels may need more than what people expect from their rated dB number. It seems sensitivity is still a good indication to go by then.
Shangri-La is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Speakers

Tags
Revel



Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off